In Great Spirits

by Archie Barwick

  4 of our raiders had a narrow squeak the other night. They were reconnoitring the section of the trenches they are going to raid, & they were right close to the German lines when they spotted a bunch of Huns coming out of their trenches with fixed bayonets. The next thing they knew was that they were surrounded by Germans so the officer gave the order for them all to sling their bombs & rush through them, so they let go, & hanged if they didn’t get through, though one of our chaps got a splinter of a bomb in his leg. It was a lucky escape.

  30th May. Yesterday afternoon 8 of our chaps were wounded by the premature explosion of a bomb, but luckily no one was killed. They were practising at the bombing school.

  They are feeding us fairly well here. A sample of the rations would be 1 loaf of bread between 3 men, 1 tin jam for 5 men every other morning, 1 lb butter between 12 men, a fair slice of cheese & sometimes a few tins of bully, while 3 times a week we have porridge & bacon, for breakfast one of these every other morning. For dinner we normally have a pretty good stew with plenty of vegetables in it, or rice & raisins or prunes. We have plenty of tea twice daily, that is for breakfast & tea, & now & again sauce & pickles.

  31st May. About 10 o’clock last night we were ordered to “stand to” & be ready to move off in 5 minutes. I think our fellows started it, for last night the batteries changed over & that generally means a fair bit of strafing. From our billet we could see the German shrapnel bursting all over the place. It was a very heavy bombardment & lasted for nearly 3 hours. I think the 3rd Bde got the brunt of it. I have not heard how many casualties there were.

  1st June. Last night a raiding party of Germans broke into the 11th Battalion trenches but never a one got back again. They bayoneted 32 of them including a Prussian Guard officer — they had no fewer than 28 bayonet holes in him.

  3rd June. Back again at the old game, more bayonet fighting & etc. We are pretty well trained by this time.

  Pay-day is around once more, & the boys are as happy as larks. I guess they will all be drunk as lords tonight.

  About 4 days ago I mended & washed a pair of shorts I had, & hung them on an old apple tree to dry, but when I went to get them they were missing, so I kept my eyes open, & hanged if one of our chaps didn’t have the cheek to wear them this morning. I frightened the life out of him. He made all sorts of excuses to try & clear himself.

  This evening our cricket material turned up, & the boys are bashing away as I write. We will have a bit of fun now for a while. It is money well spent, for you can’t beat a bit of sport in your spare time.

  4th June. Church parade again this morning. General Birdwood & Staff were there, & he made a little speech in reference to the naval defeat our ships have just had in the North Sea. He warned us to be careful & not let the Germans get their tails up, but to give them fits whenever we have the chance. He then told us about the 2 parties of Germans that have raided our trenches & the reception they got. The first one attacked the 20th Battalion & broke into their trenches & captured a few of our men. The next time they smashed the 11th Battalion’s trenches to pieces & then they charged, but they were facing a different Battalion this time & one with a Gallipoli name behind it. Our chaps of the old 1st Division simply smashed the Huns to pieces & drove them back in double quick time. They got their first proper taste of good Australian steel & let’s hope the forerunner of many more.

  Just as the parson finished the lessons he asked General Birdwood if he would mind us sitting down on the grass. For answer he just sat fair down on it himself like the rest of us, although there were chairs there if he had liked to have sat in them. These are the sorts of things which make him so popular among us.

  After the review was over we marched past him & away home to our billets. A big swag of our Company has gone away on fatigue. I am mess-orderly today, a job I don’t care much about. I am going to wash my pants this afternoon for my leave is getting very close, & a chap must have a clean pair of pants to have a look at England in.

  I hear that Lieut Davidson was shot dead accidentally yesterday by some of our chaps at the musketry school. I feel sorry for his mother for she has lost both husband & son now in this war. Major Davidson was a bonzer chap & he was killed at Lone Pine on the 18th August last year. We were all very sorry he went under.

  The days are very long here now it’s light at 9 o’clock in the evening & again at 3 o’clock in the morning so we don’t have much darkness to sleep in. I have seen a good few partridges & hares about here at times but of course they are out of season for shooting.

  6th June. Went on a fatigue to Sailly this morning & it rained cats & dogs all the way. When I had been there about an hour or so, a chap came up from Headquarters with a note to say that I had to go back to my billet, as I was to go on my leave tonight. You should have seen me drop the pick which I was using. When I got back I reported to our Captain. He told me to pack up & be ready to move off at 6 o’clock. I was also informed that I had a stripe to put up, so the day wasn’t a bad one for me. I am taking no less than 38 letters with me & about a dozen parcels of all sizes & sorts.

  7th June. Arrived at Steenwerck last night per medium of a motor bus, slept all night in the Y.M.C.A. hut there, & caught the leave train at 4.30 in the morning. The journey from Steenwerck to Boulogne took us about 6 hours. The country all along the line looks lovely, for the recent rain has done it the world of good, & crops are forward.

  On arrival at Boulogne, we were marched around to a big building, where we had to wait for an hour or so for the boat to come in. They have fine big hot baths in this building & needless to say I was not long in getting under one & washing some of the sticky Flanders mud off me. That done I bought some cherries, they looked so tempting, & I had not tasted any since leaving Australia. There are also some fine canteens in the old house, one for every floor.

  About 2 o’clock a great rush set in, for the boat was about to leave, so we were all formed up once more & marched down to the ship. We went straight on, & collared the inevitable lifebelt — wherever we go they seem to follow us like bad pennies. Just before we embarked we heard the news of Lord Kitchener’s death but scarcely anyone believed it. We all reckoned it was another “roughie” but unfortunately it turned out to be only too true.

  Our trip across took us nearly 2 hours. Nothing of any importance happened except perhaps it was quite rough enough for me, & the great swag of officers on leave compared to the men was very noticeable, & they in their usual selfish style took up about half the accommodation of the ship. We were escorted nearly all the way over by a destroyer. The first sight I had of old England’s shores were the white chalk cliffs which we have all read & heard about so often. Who would have thought a short 2 years ago that I would be crossing the English Channel on my way for a well-earned holiday.

  Folkestone where we got off at is a pretty big place, & very neat & clean. All the houses seem to be built the same way, & you can easily see that it is a very ancient place. After getting off the boat, we slipped straight along to the train which was waiting for us. The carriage I got into I thought I had made a mistake at first. I could hardly believe that they were third-class carriages, they were got up so well: the seats & backs are nicely padded & they have bonzer springs. In fact the whole get up of the compartment is nearly as good as the first class on the Australian Railways. This might seem exaggerated but it’s true all the same, & although they travel very fast you can talk in the natural tone of voice & be heard quite distinctly.

  It took us 2 hours to travel from Folkestone to London. The whole journey you pass through country very much like the south of France, & when you get into Kent there is nothing but hop fields & orchards all the way. It is a lovely trip, & I thoroughly enjoyed it.

  We ran into Victoria Station about 7 o’clock. Talk about a crowd. They formed us up again & marched us out through the people. How they clapped & cheered us. There’s no doubt about the popularity of the Colonials.

  My first impression of London was noth
ing out of the ordinary. The streets don’t seem to be as busy as George, King or Pitt streets in Sydney, & the buildings are all of a dark grey colour. At the same time any fool can see that she is a mighty city.

  They took us down to the Australian Hqrs first, & there I handed my rifle in. I then struck out for Peel House, & on my way down saw Bert Miller & Alex Howarth. I took a room, had a good wash, posted 40 letters, had my tea & here I am scribbling away in the fine reading & writing room attached to the house.

  I was not long in striking a girl, although I had my old clothes on. I was looking about this evening for the South Western Post Office when a girl overheard me asking a chap for the direction of it. She straight away took me in hand & took the trouble to take me around personally. It was not bad of her; she seemed a decent sort too.

  9th June. Yesterday I roamed all about London & saw the Tower Bridge, Bank of England Mansion House, Westminster, St Paul’s Cathedral. By Jove she’s a magnificent building, easily the finest as ever I have seen. It took just on 314 years to build it. Anyone reading this would scarcely believe it, but wait till you see the place then I’ll guarantee you would wonder how it was built even in that time. I am not going to try & describe it for it is impossible. Just imagine my feeling when strolling in this old place, almost the heart & soul of the British Empire.

  I spent nearly 3 hours in St Paul’s & then never saw half of it. From there I wandered about the busy part of London. I dodged the heavy traffic alright but got bushed about a dozen times during the day. I had my photo taken yesterday also — don’t know how it will come out, I am going to have a look at the proof today.

  After wandering about till I was tired, I came back to Peel House, had my tea, & then went down to Victoria Station to see the Leave train in & to meet a mate of mine who I expected was coming in. A great crowd had collected there, all waiting for the train. I saw something here that satisfied me about the popularity of the Australians. The first to come through the barriers & pass through the crowd was the British Tommy & then followed the Canadians. When the latter appeared the people raised a feeble cheer. I thought they were the last & no Australians had come but still the people stayed there. I was just about to turn away when for some unexplained reason the people began to surge towards the middle, then all of a sudden a mighty cheer went up & the girls waved their handkerchiefs & clapped the boys as they came swinging along all dirty & mud stained from the trenches, swinging along in the free & easy style which belongs to the Australians only. “Bravo, boys”, “Welcome to London”, “Well done, Australia” & so on. Yes, if ever men were popular well the Australians are in England. The people followed us along the street & the boys carried the rifles of the men down to the Australian Hqrs. They think the same of the N.Z.s too. This is no silly idle vapouring but it’s true absolutely. It does not seem fair in one way, for the Canadians have done a lot of heavy fighting & have fought well for England, & so far as I have found them fine fellows, but the Australians & N.Z.s have captured the English people’s fancy & from what I can see of it they are going to keep it — they have held it for well over a year now. You would scarcely believe how jealous the other troops are of the Australians.

  Had supper last night at the Anzac Buffet. They are a fine lot of people there, nearly all Australian girls, & where I am stopping the work is all done free by the English ladies, & they are splendid the women of England, like France. There are plenty of women ticket collectors on the bus & trams here. One thing is very noticeable & that is the almost entire absence of horses on the streets of London.

  The more I see of London the better I am pleased with it. She is a magnificent place & as easy to lose your way in as falling off a log.

  12th June. The streets in London are quite dark of a night for all lights are shaded on account of the Zeppelins. I have not seen a single bit of damage so far that they have caused. I expected to find London in a more or less patchy state but all the damage they have done is trifling compared to what is claimed by them.

  14th June. Last night I saw the searchlights for the first time sweeping the sky all around on the lookout for Zeppelins. They look very pretty with their great white beams of light searching the dark.

  16th June. Last night I went & saw “The Show Shop” at the Globe — it was very good. I got home pretty late & had a good hot bath for it was my last night in glorious London, surely one of the finest cities of the world. I shall never, never forget the time I had there: the kindness of the people, the pretty girls, the taxis, the plays & the roar of old London. It will sound in my ears for years to come & I shall always look back on it with pleasure.

  At 10 minutes to 8 this morning we left her for good, for our leave was up & we are returning to: what? I am writing this on the boat that is taking us away from good old England. I shall never hear England run down in the future. I have had my eyes opened; the way they look on & treat the Colonials is enough for me.

  The run across the Channel was fairly smooth, thank Heaven. We had a full cargo of troops, & didn’t they all look downhearted, but we are beginning to cheer up again.

  Now we are in Boulogne. They marched all the Canadians & New Zealanders & Australians round to the same big old building as we were in when we came down from the trenches. We stopped in this building until nearly 6 o’clock, then marched up to the railway station where trams were waiting for us. As we marched along we were sorted out, for the Canadians, English & Australians had different trains to catch. We were hanging about nearly 2 hours before we started but of course this is the same old military style — they generally keep us hanging on for a few hours, as if it didn’t matter at all.

  At last we got away. The sun was going down & the sea & Boulogne looked very pretty in the fading light. We reached Steenwerck about 12 o’clock & the motor buses were waiting for us. We were soon away & now I come to the exciting part: we had travelled about 2 miles when a strange smell came our way. I knew at once what was the matter — a gas attack — for I knew too well what gas smelt like for I had been at the School of Instruction & we had a practical demonstration of it there. I at once shouted out for everyone to put their helmets on but the majority of them laughed at the idea of it — they reckoned it was only petrol, or lime — but you should have seen them about 10 secs later. Some were sick, some were gasping for breath & others were choking. The car was at once stopped but we had run nearly 200 yards into the gas cloud. You could see it quite plainly: it looked like a bluish white cloud of smoke that kept on coming in billows, something like waves rolling in on a beach. I just got my helmet on in time for I was beginning to stagger, my lungs seemed fit to burst & they were beginning to burn like anything, while my throat had a choking sensation in it, just as if someone were throttling me. I reckon a couple more mouthfuls & I would have been a stiff one.

  2 chaps went out to it. I helped one chap to put his helmet on for he was nearly done. I think one chap will die alright from the effects of the rotten stuff. We were extraordinarily lucky to get out alive. Only presence of mind saved us, for all concerned took it very cool indeed.

  That was a nice reception to get, just as we were coming back from leave, wasn’t it. You should have heard the noise when the alarm was given: all the bells were set ringing, whistles blown from the barges & engines, cans were beaten like mad so as everyone would be prepared for it. All civilians have their helmets, you know, within the gas zone. It seems funny to see the little children running about with gas bags round their shoulders, but it is the only way to protect yourself, for the helmets are absolutely safe when properly put on. Everything depends on the speed of getting them on correctly — all gas casualties are caused in the first 2 or 3 minutes of an attack. When these attacks are on they have to gallop all the horses within the danger zone as hard as they can lay their heels to the ground, to save them. They seem to know something is the matter for they go like wildfire. All stock within a certain radius are killed. This was the first gas attack on this part of the line for n
early a year.

  We were in our helmets for about an hour & a half. We then took them off & started to walk on up to our units. We had to walk about 9 miles to reach them so you can bet we were not half tired by the time we got into the trenches where the 1st & 2nd Batts were. I was immediately pounced on by the boys for all wanted to know what kind of a time you had in England.

  After I had my breakfast — spare the mark for it consisted of a piece of fat bacon & a small piece of bread washed down with a mug of tea — I went down to our Dr for my chest was pretty tight & I was feeling none to rosy on it. He gave me some capsules, & said I would have to remain down with him for the rest of the day so as I would be under observation, so here I am stretched out on a stretcher in the warm sun, scribbling away as per usual.

  When I came back I had a few letters waiting for me, which were very welcome.

  This afternoon there was a wonderful sight in the sky: no less than 8 aeroplanes were fighting, 5 German & 3 British. One big British battleplane fought no less than 3 Taubes at once & fell 2 of them to the ground, while 2 more Fokkers were smashed over towards Sailly — our airmen did put it on to them. It was a magnificent spectacle away up in the clouds. The Taubes would dive almost nose down & try to ram the battleplane but to no purpose, for she would dodge them by a miracle & all the time she was pouring the bullets into them. When the Taubes would dive at her she would turn straight on her side & dodge them beautifully. Bombs fell like hailstones, & the old battleplane would every now & again drop some smoke bombs & coloured lights. Truly a grand sight.

  There has also been a very heavy artillery duel in progress most of the afternoon. The heavy guns have been very active & I daresay damaging. We had a few casualties today from snipers.

  18th June. About 11 o’clock this morning our chaps slung some of them 60 lb bombs over to old Fritz. They are an awful thing for they have the same effect as a 9 inch shell. They are round like a pudding with a piece of bright steel sticking out of them. When the bombs are fired they describe a semicircular curve, & lob in the trenches tail upwards. They dig a hole 6 ft deep & 21 ft across. We call them tadpoles & they are about the worst thing used on this front. When we start firing these the Germans turn all their available guns on to the portion of trench where they think they are coming from & give it particular Hell.