Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War
Page 28
“CIA Name File—Alois Brunner,” RG N 263, Stack Area 2000,
Row 6, Compartment 4, Box 9
National Archives, Kew, England:
Registry nos. Z 407/132/17 and Z 5423/1698/17
Letter signed Eric Phipps, British Embassy, Berlin, January 3, 1935
File no. CG503503184
File: Premier 3/181/10
Politisches Archiv des Auswärtigen Amts, Deutsche Botschaft Paris, Political
Archives of German Foreign Office, German Embassy, Paris:
Akte 681c press attaché, 2 volumes. 1933–36
Akte 681/5 c Paris IV press attaché, File 1
General activites
Akte 1726
Services spéciaux, France, including:
Renseignements généraux
Sûreté nationale
Sûreté générale
Swiss Federal and Cantonal Archives, Bern, Switzerland:
File Nos.: C.16.1373 1939–1940; 878995 1950
United States Department of State, Washington, D.C.:
RG 59, Central Decimal File 1940–44, 800–20252/29 Lombardi, Vera
Archival searches for author were carried out in the following locations by the following individuals:
United States (Carolyn C. Miller)
National Archives and Records Administration, College Park, Maryland
United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, Washington, D.C.
Germany and Switzerland (Michael Foedrowitz)
Aufstellung der benutzten Archive und Institutionen
Militärgeschichtliches Forschungsamt MGFA, Potsdam
Politisches Archiv des Auswärtigen Amtes PAdAA, Berlin
Stadtarchiv Hannover
Landesarchiv Berlin
Bundesarchiv Berlin
Bundesarchiv-Militärarchiv Freiburg BAMA
Stadtarchiv Kaufbeuren
Wehrmachtsauskunftsstelle WASt, Berlin
Archivgemeinschaft Gettorf
Landesarchiv Schleswig Holstein LASH, Schleswig
Schweizerisches Bundesarchiv BAR, Bern
Freie Universität Berlin, Institut für Meteorologie
Archives cantonales vaudoises
Einwohnermeldeamt Gemeinde Berchtesgaden
Einwohnermeldeamt Gemeinde Schönau
Texas (Milanne Hahn)
The Sybille Bedford Papers, Harry Ransom Center of the University of Texas, Austin, Texas
France (Sally Gordon-Mark)
Archives du Département du Var, Draguignon
Archives de la Préfecture de Police, Paris
Archives de la Ville de Paris
Archives de la Ville de Sanary-sur-Mer
BDIC, Nanterre
Bibliothèque Municipale de la Ville de Toulon
Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Sites Mitterrand and Richelieu, Paris
Cabinet du Ministre de l’Intérieur, Mission des Archives Nationales, Paris
Centre d’Accueil et de Recherche des Archives Nationales, Paris
Centre des Archives Contemporaines Fontainebleau
Centre Historique des Archives du Département de l’Armée de Terre Vincennes
Établissement de Communication et de Production Audiovisuelle de la Défense, Ivry-sur-Seine
La Mairie de la Ville de Nice
Service spécial, Paris
Rome (Francesca Di Pasquale)
Archivio centrale dello Stato
Archivio della Direzione generale per il personale militare del Ministero della difesa
Archivio di Stato di Genova
Archivio di Stato di Roma
Biblioteca dell’Archivio centrale dello Stato
Biblioteca di storia moderna e contemporanea
Biblioteca Universitaria Alessandrina
Britain (Philip Parkinson)
British Library, London
British Library Newspaper Library, London
Churchill College, Cambridge
Hurlingham Polo Association, Little Coxwell, Faringdon
National Archives, Kew, London
Westminster Reference Library, London
Warsaw (Joanna Beta)
Archiwum Akt Nowych
Archiwum Państwowe m. st. Warszawy
Instytut Pamieci Narodowej
CORRESPONDENCE AND INTERVIEWS
(WITH AUTHOR UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED)
Abramovici, Pierre. Paris. March 2009.
Almeida, Fabrice d’. Historian and director of l’Institut d’Histoire du Temps Présent. April, 2009.
Arnim, Alexandra, and Baron Volkmar von. August 11 and 16, 2008.
Baudel, Jules-Marc. Avocat Honoraire, Ancien Membre du Conseil de l’Ordre. On legal matters connected with the indictment of Chanel and the trial of Louis de Vaufreland. Paris. March 3, 2010.
Charles-Roux, Edmonde. April 21, 2009. Paris, France. Telephone interviews throughout 2010.
Engelhardt, Baron Wilfried von. Hinterstoder, Austria. July 3, 2009. Interview by Sally Gordon-Mark.
Flügge, Manfred. Paris. December 2009.
Foedrowitz, Michael. Berlin and Paris. August 2008. Personal communication with author and telephone consultations, 2008–2010.
Griffith, Aline, Countess of Romanones. January 2008.
Higham, Charles. Telephone interview with Philip Parkinson, research assistant. London. April 2008.
Klarsfeld, Serge. L’Association des fils et filles des déportés juifs de France, correspondance, 2008.
Labrunie, Gabrielle Palasse. Interviews in person and by telephone, April 2009–April 2010. Yermenonville, France.
The Momm Family. Interview with Michael Foedrowitz. February–March 2010.
Muller, Florence. Fashion historian. March 2009.
Munchhausen, Ernst-Friedemann Freiherr von. August 8, 2008.
Ozanam, Yves. Interview with Michael Foedrowitz. March 4, 2010, at the Palais de Justice in Paris.
Roese, Manfred. Archive society, Gettorf, Germany. August 7, 2008. Interview with Michael Foedrowitz.
Schmidt, Eric. June 6, 2009.
Schoenebeck, Baron Andre von. Hinterstoder, Austria. July 3, 2009. Interview by Sally Gordon-Mark.
Sichel, Peter. Telephone conversations and e-mails with author. New York, 2007–2010.
Testa, Eleanor. Archivist of the Mémorial de la Shoah. June 11, 2008, Paris.
Tiedt, Marietta. Hinterstoder, Austria. July 3, 2009. Interview by Sally Gordon-Mark.
BROADCAST
Chanel: A Private Life. BBC Two documentary, first broadcast January 1995.
ARTICLES
Abescat, Bruno, and Yves Stavridès. “Derrière l’empire Chanel.” L’Express, July 4–12, 2005.
Angus, Christophe. “Chanel: un parfum d’espionage.” L’Express, March 16, 1995.
Arnaud, Claude. “Mademoiselle L’oeil noir frondeur, un petit tailleur mythique, un jersey enchanteur, un N° 5 universel, une allure libérée mais disciplinée, des rencontres inouïes, Cocteau, Diaghilev ou Renoir … Portrait impressioniste de Gabrielle Chanel.” Vogue, March 2009.
“Ascot’s Brilliant Pageant—Brilliant in Spite of Rain Threat.” The Daily Mail, June 20, 1934.
“Battle of Births.” Time, February 5, 1940.
Berman, Phyllis, and Zina Sewaya. “The Billionaires Behind Chanel.” Forbes, April 3, 1989, 165.
Bernstein, Richard. “An Archive Puts Faces on Nazis’ Young Victims.” New York Times, December 18, 1984, A2.
Berton, Gilles. “Au ban de la nationale.” Le Monde, November 7, 2008.
“Black List.” Life, August 24, 1942, 86.
“Blum’s Debut.” Time, June 15, 1936.
Blumenthal, Ralph. “U.S. Suit Says French Trains Took Victims to the Nazis.” New York Times, June 13, 2001.
Bower, Brock. “Chez Chanel.” Smithsonian, July 2001, 60.
Brady, James. “The Truth About Chanel from Her Last Amour.” Crain’s New York Business, April 25, 2005, 3.
“Brunner Tried in Absentia for Sending Orphans to Deaths.” Toro
nto Star, March 3, 2001.
Cannell, Kathleen. “Gems of Far East Blend with Gowns.” New York Times, May 6, 1940.
Ceaux, Pascal. “Soixante ans de douleur dans une valise.” Le Monde, September 2006, 3.
Chauffour, Celia. “Le Musée d’Auschwitz doit préserver la mémoire collective.” Le Monde, September 2006, 3.
“Chanel Arrives, Perfumed and Wearing Pearls!” Illustrated Daily News, March 17, 1931, 12.
“Chanel étudie une réorganisation mondiale” and “Chanel renouvelle ses dirigeants et revoit ses structures.” Les Échos, January 16, 2008.
“Chanel l’album de sa vie, de sa fortune et de sa gloire.” Paris Match, January 23, 1971.
“Chanel, the Couturier, Dead in Paris.” Obituary, New York Times, January 11, 1971.
“Chanel Visits America.” New York Times, March 8, 1931.
Churchill, Randolph. “Mlle Chanel’s Tribute.” Daily Mail, June 20, 1934.
“Coco, encore et toujours.” Vogue, March 2009, 150.
“Concentration Camp Near Paris Is Closed.” New York Times, September 10, 1945.
Cousteau, Patrick. “Coco Chanel vue par les RG.” Minute, April 29, 2009.
Cox, Edwin. “Private Lives.” Los Angeles Times, March 27, 1940, A14.
Coyle, Gene. “Spy vs. Spy.” The Intelligencer: Journal of U.S. Intelligence Studies 17, no. 2 (Fall 2009): 61.
Davies, Lizzy. “Coco Chanel Back in Vogue as France Celebrates an Icon.” Guardian, August 25, 2008.
Delavoie, Sophie. “De Fulco pour Coco.” Vogue, March 2009, 245.
Dethomas, Bruno. “Coco Chanel et son maître d’hôtel.” Le Monde, March 23, 1973.
Dixon, Jane. “Women Behind the News.” Los Angeles Times, February 1, 1931, A4.
Dorsey, Hebe. “Looking Back on the Life of Chanel.” International Herald Tribune, September 26, 1972.
Drapac, Vesna. “A King Is Killed in Marseille: France and Yugoslavia in 1934.” In “French History and Civilization,” a paper presented at 2005 Georges Rude Society conference. http://www.h-france.net/rude/2005conference/Drapac2.pdf.
“Erich Vermehren.” The Independent, May 3, 2005.
Flanner, Janet. “31 rue Cambon.” New Yorker, March 14, 1931, 25.
“France Admits Guilt but Says ‘Jews Have Been Given Enough.’ ” Times of London, February 17, 2009.
“Free Trade.” Time, October 12, 1936.
“French Jews Sent to a Nazi Oblivion.” New York Times, April 1, 1943.
Frudenheim, Milt. “Chanel’s Past Haunts Exhibit.” Salt Lake Tribune, September 29, 1972, 20.
“Germany Cornered.” Time, April 22, 1940.
“Gestapo über alles.” Vendémiaire, September 4, 1935.
Gildea, Robert. “How to Understand the Dreyfus Affair.” New York Review of Books, June 10, 2010, 43–44.
Grassin, Sophie. “Chanel aurait été folle de vous! Edmonde Charles-Roux à Audrey Tatou.” Mme Figaro, April 18, 2009, 84.
———. “ ‘Coco Avant Chanel’: Portrait de Femme.” Mme Figaro, April 18,
2009, 80.
———. “Edmonde Charles-Roux à Audrey Tautou. ‘Chanel aurait été folle de vous!’ ” Mme Figaro, April 18, 2009, 84.
Grimes, William. “Recovering Lost Relatives from Holocaust Oblivion.” New York Times, September 20, 2006.
Guerrin, Michel. “André Malraux, la culture en solitaire.” Le Monde, June 25, 2010.
“Half-Year Mark.” Time, March 11, 1940.
“H. Gregory Thomas, Chanel Executive, 82.” Obituary, New York Times, October 10, 1990.
Hilberg, Raul. “ ‘C’est un travail sans fin’ …” Interview with Thomas Wieder. Le Monde, October 20, 2006.
“Hitler Endorsed by 9 to 1 in Poll on His Dictatorship, but Opposition Is Doubled.” New York Times, August 19, 1934.
“If Blonde, Use Blue Perfume, says Chanel.” Los Angeles Examiner, March 17, 1931, 5.
Jungius, Martin, and Wolfgang Seibel. “The Citizen as Perpetrator: Kurt Blanke and Aryanization in France, 1940–1944.” Holocaust and Genocide Studies 22, no. 3 (Winter 2008): 441–74.
Katz, Yaakov. “Int’l Hunt on for Top Nazi Fugitive.” Jerusalem Post, December 28, 2005.
“King of Perfume.” Time, September 14, 1953.
Krick, Jessa. “Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel 1883–1971 and the House of Chanel.” The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, October 2004, www.metmuseum.org.
“La fébrile activité de ‘la Gestapo’ en France.” Vendémiaire, September 11, 1935.
Lambauer, Barbara. “Francophile contre vents et marée? Otto Abetz et les Français, 1930–1958.” Bulletin du Centre de Recherche Français de Jérusalem 18 (2007): 153–60.
Le Bars, Stéphanie. “Institutions juives, Cimenter une communauté dispersée.” Le Monde, June 23, 2008.
Long, Tanya. “Paris Purge Jails Many by Mistake.” New York Times, September 8, 1944.
“Mademoiselle Chanel Here, Hollywood-Bound.” New York Times, March 5, 1931.
Mandelbaum, Jacques. “Nuit et brouillard, affaire trouble.” Le Monde, August 22, 2006.
Marguin-Hamon, Elsa. “Une campagne anti-sémite en 1290.” Historia, October 2006.
Maurus, Véronique. “No. 5, l’éternel parfum de femme.” Le Monde, April 20, 1997.
Merrick, Mollie. “Hollywood in Person.” Los Angeles Times, December 19, 1932, A5.
Miller, Margaux. “Audrey Tatou, ou le fabuleux destin de Coco.” Mme Figaro, December 13, 2008, 92.
“Mlle Chanel, New Czarina of Film Fashions, Arrives.” Hollywood Daily Citizen, March 17, 1931, 4.
“Mlle Chanel, Paris Stylist, Meets Stars.” Los Angeles Evening Herald, March 17, 1921, A-15.
“Mlle Chanel to Wed Her Business Partner; Once Refused the Duke of Westminster.” New York Times, November 19, 1933.
“Mme Chanel.” New York Times, March 15, 1931.
Moore, Beth. “Two for the Runway.” Los Angeles Times, May 4, 2005, E-1.
De Moubray, Jocelyn. “Obituary: Jacques Wertheimer.” The Independent, February 10, 1996.
“No, Without Bayonets.” Time, July 20, 1936.
Nye, Myra. “Society of Cinemaland.” Los Angeles Times, March 22, 1931, 24.
Obituary of Vera Lombardi Arkwright, Il Messaggero, May 24, 1947.
“On and Off the Avenue, Feminine Fashions.” New Yorker, March 19, 1932, and August 27, 1932.
“Parfums Chanel Sued by Designer.” New York Times, June 3, 1946.
Paris Letter column. New Yorker, December 3, 1933.
“Perfume Industry Hit by Lack of Oils.” New York Times, February 12, 1941.
Philip, P. J. “France Crippled by Wild Cat Strikes; Blum Is in Power.” New York Times, June 5, 1936.
———. “Paris Ends Strikes,” New York Times, September 18, 1936.
———. “300,000 on Strike in France as Blum Prepares to Rule.” New York Times, June 4, 1936.
“Present & Future Plans.” Time, April 8, 1940.
“Return of Welles.” Time, April 8, 1940.
Riding, Alan. “The Fight Over a Suitcase and the Memories It Carries.” New York Times, September 16, 2006.
Roberts, Glenys. “Movie-makers Fight over Coco’s Life Story—from Chanel No. 5 to Nazi Spy.” Prada’s Meadow, June 9, 2007, www.forum.purseblog.com.
Ross, Lillian. “The Strong Ones.” New Yorker, September 28, 1957.
Salsman, Richard M. “The Cause and Consequences of the Great Depression, Part 1: What Made the Roaring ’20s Roar.” The Intellectual Activist 18, no. 6 (June 2004): 16.
Savigneau, Josyane. “Le Vel’ d’Hiv avant le désastre.” Le Monde, October 31, 2008.
Schultz, Jeff. “Paris Memories Horrible, Indelible.” Atlanta Journal-Constitution, August 7, 2005, B1.
Sischy, Ingrid. “The Designer Coco Chanel.” Time, June 8, 1998.
Skidelsky, Robert. “The Remedist.” New York Times, December 12, 2008.
“Strong Nerves.” Time, June 19
, 1936.
“Studies Cosmetic Needs.” New York Times, August 18, 1940.
“Style Creator Tells How to Become ‘Chic.’ ” Los Angeles Times, March 18, 1931, A1.
Thurman, Judith. “Scenes from a Marriage: The House of Chanel at the Met.” New Yorker, May 23, 2005.
“Tradition Upheld by Noted Star” and “Style Creator Praises Modes?” Los Angeles Times, December 2, 1931, 7.
Trescott, Jacqueline. “Detention Camp Archive Donated by Red Cross to Holocaust Museum.” Washington Post, July 3, 1998, D-2.
Updike, John. “Qui qu’a vu Coco?” New Yorker, September 21, 1998.
Whitaker, Alma. “Sugar and Spice.” Los Angeles Times, March 29, 1931, 21.
Wieder, Thomas. “Découverte du projet de ‘statut des juifs.’ ” Le Monde, October 5, 2010, 10.
Wildman, Sarah. “Paris’ Dirty Secret.” Jerusalem Report, November 1, 2004, 26.
BOOKS
Abramovici, Pierre. Un rocher bien occupé. Monaco pendant la guerre 1939–1945, Paris: Editions du Seuil, 2001.
Alanbrooke, Field Marshal Lord. War Diaries. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2001.
Allard, Paul. Quand Hitler espionne la France. Paris: Les Éditions de France, 1939.
Ambrose, Stephen E. The Supreme Commander: The War Years of General Dwight D. Eisenhower. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday & Company, 1969.
Amouroux, Henri. La Vie des Français sous l’Occupation. Paris: Librairie Arthème Fayard, 1990.
Annuaire de la Magistrature. France: Sofiac, 1996.
Arthaud, Christian. La Côte d’Azur des écrivains. Aix-en-Provence: Édisud, 1999.
Assouline, Pierre. Simenon: A Biography. Translated by Jon Rothschild. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1997.
Atelier vidéo-histoire du Lycée Jean-Baptiste-Say. Paris, carrefour des résistances. Paris: Paris-Musées, 1994.
Barth, Jack. International Spy Museum Handbook of Practical Spying. Preface by Peter Earnest. Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 2004.