Once Upon a Grind

by Cleo Coyle

  Step 3—Bake. Coat muffin cups with nonstick spray or insert paper liners. Divide the batter among the muffin cups. Bake in the preheated oven for about 18 to 20 minutes. When a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, remove from the oven. (Tip: When baked muffins remain in their hot pans, the bottoms may become tough so be sure to remove the muffins from their pans fairly quickly.)

  New York “Hot Dog” Onions à la the Papaya King

  On the night of the Central Park Festival, Clare and Mike enjoyed a late-night bite at a humble hot dog stand, and Clare expressed her love of New York Onions, a sweet-and-savory relish that’s delicious on hot dogs and hamburgers.

  For decades, these onions have been part of the city’s hot dog–eating tradition. At one time, almost every vendor had his own recipe. This is the one Clare makes at home, and it’s very close to what you once found at New York’s hot dog carts and stands, including the still-standing Papaya King’s hot dog “palace” on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

  Alas, the quality of this condiment now varies widely in the city from good to . . . not so great. Likewise, the jarred version of these onions (that you may see on store shelves) is nowhere near the delicious quality of a freshly made sauce, so buyer beware—and consider making your own!

  Makes about 21⁄2 cups

  2 teaspoons olive oil

  5 large red onions, sliced thin and chopped fine

  1 (11-ounce) can vegetable juice (V8)

  1⁄2 cup water

  1 teaspoon ketchup

  2 teaspoons sweet paprika

  1⁄2 teaspoon white granulated sugar

  1⁄2 teaspoon cornstarch

  1⁄2 teaspoon salt

  1⁄2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

  3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

  Step 1—Sauté the onions. In a medium-sized pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the chopped onions. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to low and let the onions sauté slowly for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the onions are translucent.

  Step 2—Start the simmer. Add the vegetable juice, water, tomato sauce, spices, and vinegar and cook the mixture over low heat for 11⁄2 hours, stirring often and making sure nothing sticks to the side of the pot.

  Step 3—Serve. The perfect sweet-spicy garnish for hot dogs, hamburgers, sandwiches, or crackers. New York onions are traditionally served hot, but they are just delicious at room temperature.

  “Fryer” Tuck’s Ale-Battered Onion Rings

  Ale-battered onion rings were one of the rare “vegetable entrées” served at the Meat-dieval Tournament and Feast, former Giant Dwayne Galloway’s super-sized action-packed dinner theater. While you may have heard of “beer-battered” onion rings, Dwayne’s Meat-dieval kitchen makes them with ale, a darker beer brewed from malted barley and brewer’s yeast. The yeast quickly ferments and gives the beer a sweet, fruity taste. Most ales also contain hops, which impart an herbal, earthier flavor that balances the malty, yeasty sweetness. Those aggressive tastes are what dominate these different yet delicious battered and fried onions.

  Serves 4

  2 large sweet (Vidalia) onions, cut into rings

  3⁄4 cup + 2 tablespoons cake flour*

  1⁄4 cup cornstarch

  1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder

  1⁄2 teaspoon finely ground sea salt

  6 to 8 ounces cold ale (a British or American dark brown is best)

  *A note on cake flour: Because cake flour has a low gluten content, when you combine it with the cornstarch, it will give you a crispier onion ring than all-purpose flour.

  Step 1—Heat the oil and cut the onions. Heat the oil to 350°F. Cut the onions into rings of about 1⁄4-inch thick. Toss the rings in the 2 tablespoons cake flour and set aside.

  Step 2—Make the batter. When the oil is hot and ready for frying, add enough cold ale to the 3⁄4 cup cake flour and the rest of the dry ingredients to make a loose batter. (Note: The coldness of the ale helps increase the viscosity of the batter, and the thicker the batter, the better it will stick to the onion rings!) For best results, do not make the batter in advance. Mix it up just before frying.

  Step 3—Batter and fry the onions. Coat your onion rings with batter and cook at once. Fry until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Serve piping hot!

  Bosnian “Frisbee” Burgers (Pljeskavica)

  In the Balkan countries of Southeastern Europe, they like their burgers big, and they don’t get much bigger than pljeskavica (roughly pronounced pee-es'-ka-veet-sa). Clare shared this juicy grilled delight with Eldar, a Bosnian livery driver familiar (perhaps too familiar?) with the two female crime victims.

  This Frisbee-sized mixed-meat patty can be made with ground beef, lamb, pork, and veal, but beef and lamb are traditional. The addition of egg white keeps the patty firm and together—an important point when you’re flipping a burger built for two!

  While pljeskavica will fit on a split round of grilled pita bread very nicely, it’s traditionally served on a Bosnian bread called lepinja, along with a layer of ajvar, a spicy pepper and eggplant spread (see the recipe below), and chopped raw onions. A heady cheese-butter called kajmak is another traditional condiment. There’s really nothing like kajmak, but for a close substitute, try a dollop of the Italian soft cheese mascarpone.

  Makes 6 Frisbee-sized patties

  2 pounds lean ground beef

  1 pound ground lamb (or veal or pork)

  2 egg whites

  1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  6 cloves garlic, chopped fine

  1 tablespoon paprika, sweet or smoked

  1 tablespoon sea salt

  1 teaspoon black pepper

  Step 1—Blend the ingredients. In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients, making sure to thoroughly incorporate the egg white. Seal in an airtight container or bowl covered with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight. The longer the meat rests, the more the flavors blend and the mixture firms.

  Step 2—Form the patties. Using slightly damp hands, form the meat into six 9-inch patties about 1⁄2-inch thick (the size of a small Frisbee). If you have trouble forming patties, sandwich the meat between two sheets of waxed paper and roll it out, or place it between to sturdy dishes and press hard.

  Step 3—Grill or fry. Grill, broil, or fry about 3 to 5 minutes per side, flipping only once (the large size makes this step tricky, but the egg will firm the patty enough to keep it together).

  Step 4—Serve hot. Pljeskavica is traditionally served on a Bosnia lepinja bread, but you can substitute a split pita bread round that’s been warmed or grilled. Traditional sides include chopped raw onions; kajmak, a rich, creamy cheese-butter (for a close substitute, use a dollop of the Italian soft cheese mascarpone); and a red pepper and eggplant spread called ajvar (see the recipe following this one).

  Queen Catherine’s Ajvar (Pepper-Eggplant Spread)

  The Queen Catherine Café is named in honor of Blessed Catherine, the celebrated Last Queen of Bosnia. Clare visited the Queen Catherine in search of a Bosnian livery driver, and ended up rediscovering this wonderful Eastern European variation on Russia’s Poor Man’s Caviar. Ajvar (roughly pronounced eye-var) is a roasted red pepper and eggplant dish that can be served as a relish, a vegetable, or a spread on sandwiches. Smoking eggplant and sweet peppers is an autumn tradition in much of Eastern Europe, and you’ll find the smoky, earthy flavor of ajvar is a great complement to grilled or roasted meats, and it’s especially savory with lamb.

  Serves 6

  1 eggplant, 1 to 2 pounds

  3 pounds sweet red peppers

  1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

  1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper

  2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil (plus more for coating the eggplant)


  1 teaspoon lemon juice or red wine vinegar

  Nontraditional additions and variations include chopped hot red chili peppers and onion.

  Step 1—Roast the peppers. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Cut the sweet red peppers in half, and discard the seeds. Coat with olive oil and place on a foiled cookie sheet, skin side up. Roast on the middle rack for 20 to 30 minutes or until the skin blisters and blackens. Let the peppers sit for 20 minutes or until they are cool enough to handle. When cool, peel the blackened skins off the peppers using a paring knife.

  Step 2—Roast the eggplant. Half the eggplant lengthwise, remove the seed core, and score with a knife. Coat with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Place the halves on the baking sheet skin side up. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the skins turn black. Remove the eggplant pulp with a knife or spoon and discard the skins. Coarse-chop the eggplant.

  Step 3—Blend. Place the eggplant, peeled peppers, salt, pepper, chopped garlic, and olive oil in a food processor. Pulse the mixture until you get the smoothness you want. Traditionally ajvar should be a bit lumpy.

  Step 4—Simmer and serve. Dump the mixture into a pot. Over medium heat, simmer for 30–35 minutes. Let the mixture cool, then stir in the lemon juice or red wine vinegar. Serve hot or cold, with toasted bread, as a spread on sandwiches, a relish with roasted meat, or a tasty side dish.

  Spicy, Creamy Buffalo Chicken Salad with Gorgonzola Dressing

  Clare discovered this deliciously spicy, creamy salad at a pretty spicy location—an exclusive underground speakeasy nicknamed the Prince Charming Club. While she didn’t sneak into the club for a free meal, the elaborate buffet table was pretty hard to resist.

  This is a wonderfully light and healthy way to enjoy the classic taste of Buffalo chicken. The boneless breasts are skinless and the marinade imparts wonderful flavor. Quick tip: Don’t cut short the suggested time on the marinade. The lengthy bath in spices is what makes the chicken delicious, not just on the surface but all the way through. You’ll find the traditional flavor of celery in the mixed green salad and the classic “blue cheese dip” is reflected in the creamy Gorgonzola dressing. May you eat with joy—Clare certainly did!

  Serves 6

  3 to 4 pounds skinless boneless chicken breasts

  2 cups Louisiana hot sauce (divided)

  1 tablespoon scallions, chopped fine

  1 clove garlic, chopped fine

  1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

  1⁄4 teaspoon white pepper

  1⁄4 teaspoon sea salt

  1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

  4 tablespoons butter

  a crisp salad of mixed greens (your choice)

  celery and carrot (peeled into thin strips)

  black olives

  Gorgonzola dressing (see the recipe following this one)

  Step 1—Prep the chicken. Cut the breasts into long strips, about 1-inch thick. You will get 5 or 6 strips per breast. Set aside.

  Step 2—Marinate. In a covered container large enough to hold all the chicken, combine 1 cup Louisiana hot sauce, scallions, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, white pepper, sea salt, and cayenne pepper (if using). Blend well, add the chicken strips, and cover. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight.

  Step 3—Cook the chicken. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the liquid. Place the chicken in a baking pan lined with foil and coated with nonstick spray. Bake for 1 hour or until the internal temperature reaches 165ºF. Remove from the oven and let cool. At this point, you can continue with the recipe or store the chicken strips in a clean, sealed plastic container in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

  Step 4—Make the salad. Make a salad of your favorite mixed greens. Shred a celery stalk and carrot into thin strips using a good-quality peeler. Garnish with olives.

  Step 5—Finish the chicken. Melt the butter in a skillet and add the remaining 1 cup of Louisiana hot sauce. When the mixture simmers, roll cooked chicken strips in the pan, coating evenly with sauce. Continue cooking until the chicken is warmed through. Serve hot over salad with Gorgonzola dressing (see the following recipe).

  Clare’s Creamy Gorgonzola Dressing

  Gorgonzola is a lovely Italian blue cheese. This is a smooth and creamy dressing that’s easy to whip up. The scallions provide freshness, and the lemon juice gives the zip that usually comes with the addition of vinegar. It’s versatile, as well. You can make it pourable for a salad dressing, or make it on the thicker side as a veggie, chip, or chicken wing dip. Enjoy!

  Makes 11⁄2 cups

  4 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled

  1 tablespoon scallions, chopped fine

  6 to 8 tablespoons mayonnaise

  1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  1 to 2 tablespoons sour cream

  1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

  1⁄4 teaspoon white pepper

  1⁄4 teaspoon sea salt

  1 anchovy, mashed (optional)

  In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients and blend until smooth and creamy. To thin the dressing out, add milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, and whisk with a fork until you are happy with the consistency. You can also serve the dressing as a tangy dipping sauce for buffalo chicken wings or raw vegetables.

  Babka’s Shrimp Kiev

  The legendary Babka’s eatery became famous for its gourmet comfort foods. Some of its menu items are also twists on old-fashioned New York favorites, as well as the owner’s versions of recipes from famous restaurants that came before hers. This Shrimp Kiev is a good example. The dish was invented at the legendary Four Seasons restaurant. Jumbo shrimps are stuffed with herb butter in the manner of a classic Chicken Kiev. Babka’s recipe boosts the flavor of the original dish with the addition of tarragon. Like her underground restaurant, the recipe is far from kosher, but it is delicious.

  Serves 4

  4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

  1 clove garlic, minced

  1 scallion, minced

  1⁄2 teaspoon fresh parsley, chopped

  1⁄2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

  1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

  1⁄4 teaspoon dry tarragon (or Old Bay Seasoning, but not both)

  1⁄4 teaspoon white pepper

  24 jumbo shrimps

  1 cup all-purpose flour

  4–5 large eggs, beaten

  4 cups plain bread crumbs

  vegetable oil for frying

  Step 1—Create the herb butter. Place the butter in a mixing bowl with the garlic, scallion, parsley, lemon juice, sea salt, tarragon (or Old Bay Seasoning), and white pepper. Using a fork or an electric mixer, cream the butter and herbs. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and cool the butter in a freezer while you prepare the shrimp.

  Step 2—Prep the shrimp. Shell and devein the shrimp and remove the tails. Split the shrimp on the vein line, taking care not to cut all the way through the meat. Gently butterfly the shrimp by using your hand to press and flatten each one on a plate, taking care not to tear the delicate meat (or you can place shrimp between two sheets of waxed paper and gently roll them flat). To see step-by-step photos of this process, see the Italian Fried Shrimp recipe at www.CoffeehouseMystery.com.

  Step 3—Stuff and bread the shrimp. Dip each flattened shrimp in flour, lightly coating both sides. When all the shrimp are floured, place a chilled butter mound between two flattened shrimps (about a half-teaspoon), making sure the butter is completely enveloped by the meat. Using both hands, hold the shrimp sandwich halves together as you flour again, dip in egg, and finally the breading. Place the finished shrimp on a waxed paper–covered plate and freeze for 1 to 2 hours. This freezing will help keep the stuffed shrimp together while cooking. (If storing longer, place shrimp ins
ide a freezer-safe plastic bag.)

  Step 4—Sauté and serve. Pour about 11⁄2 to 2 inches of oil into a deep skillet. Heat to about 370°F and quickly deep-fry the frozen shrimp sandwiches for about 3 minutes, until golden brown. Do not crowd the pan or the oil will drop in temperature and your shrimp will be greasy instead of crispy. Drain lightly on paper towels and serve piping hot.

  Clare Cosi’s Dr. Pepper Glazed Chicken

  Swapnil Padmanabhan of Columbia University’s Sleep Studies Lab, aka Dr. Pepper, helped Clare to unlock the mystery of Matt’s “magic” coffee, along with the secret behind her bizarre and frightening visions. That—and the doctor’s special “KISS”—proved to be lifesavers. After the crime was solved, Clare discovered the good doctor’s nickname was more than a soft drink mnemonic. His favorite cold drink was a bubbly glass of Dr Pepper soda over crushed ice. Since he also enjoyed American barbeque, Clare decided to thank him by creating a BBQ chicken dish in his honor. This Dr Pepper Glazed Chicken is so sweet and savory that Clare’s real Dr. Pepper proclaimed the dish “wonderfully good.”

  Makes 4 to 6 servings

  3–5 pounds chicken parts, skin on

  2–4 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

  1 (12-ounce) can Dr Pepper soda (regular, not diet)

  3⁄4 cup dark brown sugar

  2 tablespoons honey (use a local raw honey)

  1 tablespoon ground cumin

  1 tablespoon ground chili powder

  3 scallions, chopped

  1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

  1⁄2 cup Heinz Natural Ketchup

  2 tablespoons cornstarch