Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll

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Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll Page 47

by Andrew Friedman


  Pintabona, Don, 402, 414

  Pirie, Gayle, 355, 359, 382

  Plaza Hotel, 219, 407

  Pleshette, Suzanne, 62, 67

  Point, Fernand, 29, 170, 186, 233

  Point, Marie-Louise “Mado,” 28, 170

  Polo, The, 239, 245, 251, 391

  Ponzek, Debra, 406

  Portale, Alfred, 231, 308, 312–18, 321–22, 329, 343–44

  “Pot Luck,” 324

  Powell, Julie, 139

  Prial, Frank, 132, 133

  Pritsker, Bob, 135–36, 137, 138, 139–45, 147, 149, 151, 152, 156–57, 160, 172, 173–74

  Prudhomme, Paul, 191, 214, 258, 261–66, 267, 273, 276, 278, 280, 323, 325, 425

  Puck, Wolfgang, 4, 23, 53–54, 59–69, 75, 84, 86, 89, 91, 100–101, 107, 108, 108–19, 121, 122–26, 192, 270, 271, 274, 280, 281, 286, 290, 293, 298, 319–22, 324, 326, 328, 331, 345, 360, 365, 366, 405, 424–25

  Puro, Karen (formerly Pritsker), 127, 135, 137, 138, 139–45, 147, 151, 157–58, 173–74

  Pyles, Stephan, 324, 328

  Quilted Giraffe, The, 103, 137, 138, 142, 152–67, 229–30, 236, 293, 391

  Quintana, Patricia, 324

  Rachou, Jean-Jacques, xiv, 206, 232, 233–39, 254–55, 344

  Rakel, 337–38, 340–41, 394, 399

  Raoul, Serge, 245n, 251, 337–38, 341

  Rathe, Richard and Robert, 308

  Rather, Dan, 306

  Rattlesnake Club, The, 280

  Rauschenberg, Robert, 42

  Red Meat Club, 403, 407

  Red Rooster Bakery, 4

  Red Sage, 324

  Redzepi, René, 43, 383

  Régine’s, 184–86, 190, 232

  Reich, Phil, 78, 83, 284

  Reichl, Ruth, 4, 38, 81, 83, 84, 86, 87, 110–11, 125, 277–78, 304, 383–84

  Restaurant Institute of Connecticut, 217

  Restaurant Leslie, 221

  Restaurant L’Oasis, 57–58

  Reuge, Maria, 106

  Revsin, Leslie, 221, 231, 233, 269

  Reynolds, Burt, 120

  Richard, Michel, 205

  Riedi, Gus, 103

  Riou, Hervé, 407

  Risley, Mary, 289

  Ritz-Carlton, 250

  River Café, The, 158, 179–81, 187–202, 204–9, 212, 255, 267, 273, 291, 298, 342, 344, 390, 400

  Robert, Jacky, 352

  Roberts, Michael, 98, 113, 270

  Robins, David, 373

  Rodgers, Judy, 30, 328, 354, 355, 359

  Romano, Michael, 234n, 308, 402

  Romanoff’s, 363

  Roots of American Food, 383

  Rose, Charlie, 385

  Rose et LeFavour, 33

  Rosellini, Robert, 333

  Rosenthal, Jacob, 131

  Rosenzweig, Anne, 106, 402

  Rossman, Arnold, 159, 166, 240–41

  Rostang, Michel, 315

  Roth, Frances, 217, 218, 223

  Rothstein, Daniel, 333–37

  Rourke, Mary, 88

  Rozmarja, Anna, 132

  Rubicon, 414

  Rubin, Hank, 31

  Rush, Karen, 339

  Ryan, Tim, 26, 255, 269

  Sailhac, Alain, 10–11, 165, 228, 230, 236, 240–43, 245, 291, 344

  Salk, Donald, 113, 115, 117

  San Francisco earthquake (1989), 376–77

  Santa Fe Bar and Grill, 99, 267, 274, 352–53, 363, 365–66, 371

  Sant Amour, Sean, 410–11

  Santo, Joseph, 328

  Saralegui, Fernando, 407

  Sarrazin, Marc, 194, 233, 245–47, 255, 346

  Saulnier, Louis, 238

  Savenor, Jack, 139

  Savio, Mario, 14, 38

  Savoy, 135

  Savoy, Guy, 315, 362

  Sawyer, Diane, 306

  Scandia, 57, 62

  Scharff, Werner, 74

  Scheer, Bob, 36

  Schenk, John, 248

  Schmidt, Jimmy, 14, 259–61, 266, 267–68, 271–72, 273, 275, 276, 278–79, 280, 281, 320–21

  Schmitt, Sally and Don, 361–62

  Schneller, Robert, 32

  Schrafft’s, 178

  Schwartz, Arthur, 311

  Schwartz, Leonard, 75

  Schwertner, Amaryll, 359

  Scott, Ridley, 7

  Sedlar, John, 72, 76, 87, 323

  Senderens, Alain, 245n

  72 Market Street, 75

  Shapiro, Bobby, 151

  Shawn, William, 130

  Sheraton, Mimi, 28, 55n, 131–34, 135, 145, 146, 148, 149, 151, 157, 160, 166, 172, 305, 320n

  Shere, Charles, 36

  Shere, Lindsey, 36, 40

  Shields, Brooke, 184

  Shire, Lydia, 104n, 258, 269, 421, 423, 424n, 425

  Shore, Dinah, 69

  Shupnick, Larry, 287

  Siegal, Al, 132

  Sign of the Dove, 328

  Silverton, Nancy, 92–96, 115–16, 117, 298

  Simple French Food (Olney), 26, 168

  Smith, Peg, 358, 360

  Smyth, Ned, 41, 42

  Snowden, John, 73

  Snyder, Jerome, 43

  Society for American Cuisine, 422

  Sokolov, Raymond, 131

  Soltner, André, xiv, 71, 78, 116, 132, 155–56, 186n, 191, 228, 230, 232–33, 242, 365

  Sonnenschmidt, Fritz, 220

  Sonnier, Mary, 264

  Soulé, Henri, 55, 219, 227–28, 233, 235

  Southwestern cuisine, 322–24, 327–28

  Spago, 23, 110, 112–22, 123, 271, 274, 298, 301, 322, 326, 360, 366

  Spangler, Larry, 62

  Spector, Stephen, 189, 193

  Speedo 690, 376

  Spielberg, Steven, 120

  Splichal, Joachim, 124, 222, 252, 332

  Springsteen, Bruce, 222–23

  Square One, 354

  Stallone, Sylvester, 120

  Stanford Court, 268–81, 285, 319–23, 330, 363, 376

  Stars, 15, 98, 280, 304, 308, 312, 338, 349–50, 354, 358, 363, 364–72, 374–79, 381–82, 385, 387

  Star Spangled Foods, 274, 276

  Staub, Rusty, 394, 399, 404

  Stephan, Rick, 181

  Stevens, Cat, 114

  Stewart, Martha, 65, 403

  Stivers, Bob, 114

  Stockli, Albert, 55n

  Streisand, Barbra, 120

  Studley, George and Helen, 135

  Sutherland, Donald, 66

  Swallow Cafe, The, 38, 39

  Sweeney, John, 126

  Swerman, Jannis, 66, 119, 120

  Szathmary, Louis, 9

  Taillevent, 5, 143, 170

  Tanis, David, 354, 360

  Taste of Hollywood, A (Terrail), 126

  Tavern on the Green, 333, 384–85, 387

  Telepan, Bill, 317–18, 343

  Tenaglia, Lydia, 384, 385

  Terrail, Patrick, 54–59, 62–67, 68–69, 70, 84, 89, 99–101, 108–10, 111, 113–14, 122, 123, 192

  Thuilier, Raymond, 61, 128

  Time, 320n

  Tingle, Ralph, 241, 290, 293, 295, 297, 302–3

  Tivy, Matthew, 394

  Tower, Jeremiah, 4, 31, 46–51, 98, 162, 222, 258–59, 267, 271–72, 274, 278, 280, 301, 304, 308, 312, 319–22, 343, 349–54, 358, 362–87

  Trboyevic, Jovan, 104

  Tribeca Grill, 402, 406, 414

  Troisgros, Claude, 245n

  Troisgros, Jean, 28, 29, 30, 49, 150–51, 315

  Troisgros, Michel, 49, 313

  Troisgros, Pierre, 28, 204, 252

  Troisgros/La Maison Troisgros, 29, 141, 150, 204, 252, 253, 289, 333

  Tropp, Barbara, 106

  Trotter, Charlie, 415–16, 422, 424n

  Trumps, 98

  Tsolis, Steve, 342

  Tucano, 313

  TV dinners, 17

  “Underground Gourmet,” 43

  Union Square Café, 249, 308, 317, 343, 394, 402

  University of California Berkeley, 14, 16, 22, 24, 35

  Unterman, Patri
cia, 16, 354–56, 367

  Upson, Bill, 361

  Urvater, Michèle, 73n, 151–52

  Usher, Gregory, 250

  Uzielli, Giancarlo, 151

  Valenti, Tom, 314–15, 322, 394, 400, 401, 417

  Van Aken, Norman, 21, 258, 421–24

  Vanessi’s, 352, 366

  Vatel Club, 238–39

  Vergé, Roger, 29, 64, 71, 101, 165, 236, 333, 414

  Vietnam War, 17–18, 24, 37

  Villas, James, 263, 363

  Virbila, S. Irene, 38

  Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 123, 124, 204, 329, 406, 417

  Vranian, Steve, 322, 353–54, 373, 376, 382

  Vrinat, Jean-Claude, 5

  Waccabuc Country Club, 193

  Wagenknecht, Lynn, 137, 302

  Waldorf-Astoria, 214

  Walsh, Brendan, 304, 308, 312, 328, 372, 394

  Waltuck, David, 137, 143n, 167–72, 173, 175, 231, 233, 298, 333, 335

  Waltuck, Karen, 137, 167–72, 173, 231, 333, 335

  Warhol, Andy, 8, 185

  Water Club, The, 394, 401, 404

  Waters, Alice, 30, 31, 33–40, 44–51, 104, 163, 191, 192, 258, 264, 267, 271–72, 273, 275, 276–78, 300–301, 303, 319–20, 328, 331, 343, 354, 357, 360, 377–81, 383–87, 425

  Waxman, Jonathan, 1, 12, 30, 47, 65, 78, 83–84, 89, 91, 95, 96, 98, 99, 107, 108, 191, 222, 258–59, 267, 269, 271–72, 273, 275, 276–77, 279, 280–81, 283–95, 296–305, 309, 312, 319–23, 324–25, 327–28, 338–40, 343, 344–46, 376, 379, 382, 408, 425

  Weinstein, Bobby, 40

  Weinstein, Michael, 312, 314

  Welles, Orson, 63, 65, 67, 69

  Wesson, Josh, 138, 148–49, 162, 174, 231, 298

  West Beach Cafe, 4–5, 6–7, 72, 74–76, 98

  White, Jasper, 12, 226, 258, 269, 332, 381, 423

  Whitmer, Brian, 336, 337

  Wilder, Billy, 121

  Wilder, Gene, 80, 100, 152

  Wilkinson, Bill, 268, 280

  Willan, Anne, 250

  Williams, Robin, 414–15

  Windows on the World, 180

  Wine, Barry, 137, 138, 142, 146n, 152–67, 170, 172, 174–75, 229–31, 236, 255, 329

  Wine, Susan, 137, 138, 146n, 153–56, 158, 161n, 163n, 166–67, 170, 174–75, 231

  Winebow Group, The, 393

  Wise, Victoria Kroyer, 39–40, 44, 45–46

  Wolf, Clark, 46, 48n, 308, 328, 380

  Wolfe, Tom, 302

  Wolfert, Paula, 146

  Women Chefs & Restaurateurs, 106

  Wonder, Stevie, 107

  Woodstock Music & Art Fair (1969), 15, 18, 85, 423

  World’s Fair (1939), 227–28, 244

  Yamaguchi, Roy, 87

  Yard, Sherry, 110

  Yosses, Bill, 239

  Zabar’s, 153

  Zagat, Tim and Nina, 137

  Zakarian, Geoffrey, 344

  Zeidler, Marvin, 287

  Zero Point Zero, 382, 383–84

  Zuni Café, 30, 328, 354, 355, 359, 375, 382

  Zweben, Paul, 206–8, 390–91, 392

  About the Author

  ANDREW FRIEDMAN has chronicled the life and work of some of the best American chefs. He is the author of Knives at Dawn: America’s Quest for Culinary Glory at the Bocuse d’Or, the World’s Most Prestigious Cooking Competition and coeditor of the internationally popular anthology Don’t Try This at Home. He has also coauthored more than two dozen cookbooks and memoirs with chefs including Alfred Portale, Paul Liebrandt, and Michael White, and collaborated on the New York Times bestselling memoir Breaking Back with tennis star James Blake. Friedman writes about chefs on his Toqueland blog and interviews them on his Heritage Radio Network podcast Andrew Talks to Chefs. He lives in New York.

  Discover great authors, exclusive offers, and more at hc.com.

  Also by Andrew Friedman

  Knives at Dawn: America’s Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d’Or Competition

  Copyright

  Judy Rodgers interview used by permission from Joyce Goldstein.

  Chefs from Hell invitation and rules used by permission from Gerry Dawes.

  CHEFS, DRUGS AND ROCK & ROLL. Copyright © 2018 by Andrew Friedman. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

  FIRST EDITION

  Cover design by Sara Wood

  Cover photographs: © Mphillips007/iStock (cutting board); courtesy of Michael’s (chefs)

  Digital Edition FEBRUARY 2018 ISBN: 978-0-06-222587-0

  Version 29012018

  Print ISBN: 978-0-06-222585-6

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  * The lotteries were surreally televised, as birthdates were drawn at random and posted on a board, indicating the sequence in which registered participants would be called up.

  * Easy Rider—Dennis Hopper’s trippy 1969 independent film about two young men motorcycling from California to New Orleans—was the tip of the cultural iceberg. There were also Ken Kesey’s psychedelic novel One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, published in 1962, and—at the other end of the decade—author Tom Wolfe’s The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, which profiled Kesey and his Merry Pranksters as they traveled cross-country in a brightly painted school bus. Even the razzmatazz of Broadway was supplanted: The musical Hair, about hippies confronting the draft, which debuted in 1968, included the Great White Way’s first nude scene.

  * Coffee with steamed milk.

  * A banana-like fruit, sautéed.

  * Seasoned ground beef.

  * The “girl” is now Norman Van Aken’s wife of many decades, Janet.

  * The show’s title also forever confused the use of the word chef. If you’ve ever wondered why casual observers have mistakenly referred to home cooks as “chefs,” the problem began there. Sara Moulton, who worked for Child for several years, says that the icon never liked the title because she’d never been a true chef, which would have entailed working in a restaurant.

  * A budding journalist and cofounder of the New Left journal Root and Branch, who took on the war-supporting local congressman in the Democratic primary.

  * Roy Andries de Groot’s fabled 1973 book-length tribute to a country French restaurant.

  * That’s the kind of statement that rankles East Coasters, and even some native Californians. Says Wolf: “In [Waxman’s] life I’m sure it was. It’s just not that important. Do you know what I mean? The entire world does not exist in Berkeley. It just doesn’t. And what you have to understand is some of those people really want to maintain that bubble because it maintains their sense of themselves and
the world. But there are nettles in New Hampshire.”

  * A short-term cooking job, often for no pay, undertaken in exchange for knowledge, contacts, and references. The term is an Americanization of the French word stagiaire, which refers to the person working in the position.

  * Opened in 1959 in Midtown Manhattan’s Seagram Building, The Four Seasons was a four-hundred-seat restaurant of breathtaking ambition. Built at a cost of $4.5 million, designed by Philip Johnson, with a marble pool and the likes of Picasso and Miró hung on the walls, its extensive menu was created by James Beard, future New York Times critic Mimi Sheraton, and Swiss-born, French-trained chef Albert Stockli. It was ahead of its time in proffering a seasonal menu that also indicated the provenance of many ingredients, and in putting forth a style of food that was, according to author Paul Freedman, “not exactly American but rather modern, eclectic, and cosmopolitan—revolutionary for its time and thereby offering a challenge to French preeminence in high-end dining.”

  * Skewers of marinated beef.

  * Industry shorthand for “walk-in refrigerator.”

  * Actually, cuisine du soleil, or cuisine of the sun.

  * In time, as he and Puck became too busy to manage Ma Cuisine, Terrail handed the running of the school over to Judy Gethers, whose family owned Ratner’s restaurant in New York City.

  * Villeroy & Boch produced a “basket weave” plate that was a sensation in nouvelle cuisine restaurants in the United States at this time.

  * The cook charged with cold preparations such as salads.

  * A thickening agent made from equal parts butter and flour.

  * In other interviews, Marder has referred to this as “sauté-reduction cooking.”

  * In their book Cooking the Nouvelle Cuisine in America, authors Michèle Urvater and David Liederman observe that pre–nouvelle cuisine, sauces “which are an essential part of haute cuisine, were being treated with cavalier contempt . . . sometimes heavily laden with flour to give them a body they did not have on their own, enabling them to stand for hours in a steam table without separating.”

 

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