Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll
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Pintabona, Don, 402, 414
Pirie, Gayle, 355, 359, 382
Plaza Hotel, 219, 407
Pleshette, Suzanne, 62, 67
Point, Fernand, 29, 170, 186, 233
Point, Marie-Louise “Mado,” 28, 170
Polo, The, 239, 245, 251, 391
Ponzek, Debra, 406
Portale, Alfred, 231, 308, 312–18, 321–22, 329, 343–44
“Pot Luck,” 324
Powell, Julie, 139
Prial, Frank, 132, 133
Pritsker, Bob, 135–36, 137, 138, 139–45, 147, 149, 151, 152, 156–57, 160, 172, 173–74
Prudhomme, Paul, 191, 214, 258, 261–66, 267, 273, 276, 278, 280, 323, 325, 425
Puck, Wolfgang, 4, 23, 53–54, 59–69, 75, 84, 86, 89, 91, 100–101, 107, 108, 108–19, 121, 122–26, 192, 270, 271, 274, 280, 281, 286, 290, 293, 298, 319–22, 324, 326, 328, 331, 345, 360, 365, 366, 405, 424–25
Puro, Karen (formerly Pritsker), 127, 135, 137, 138, 139–45, 147, 151, 157–58, 173–74
Pyles, Stephan, 324, 328
Quilted Giraffe, The, 103, 137, 138, 142, 152–67, 229–30, 236, 293, 391
Quintana, Patricia, 324
Rachou, Jean-Jacques, xiv, 206, 232, 233–39, 254–55, 344
Rakel, 337–38, 340–41, 394, 399
Raoul, Serge, 245n, 251, 337–38, 341
Rathe, Richard and Robert, 308
Rather, Dan, 306
Rattlesnake Club, The, 280
Rauschenberg, Robert, 42
Red Meat Club, 403, 407
Red Rooster Bakery, 4
Red Sage, 324
Redzepi, René, 43, 383
Régine’s, 184–86, 190, 232
Reich, Phil, 78, 83, 284
Reichl, Ruth, 4, 38, 81, 83, 84, 86, 87, 110–11, 125, 277–78, 304, 383–84
Restaurant Institute of Connecticut, 217
Restaurant Leslie, 221
Restaurant L’Oasis, 57–58
Reuge, Maria, 106
Revsin, Leslie, 221, 231, 233, 269
Reynolds, Burt, 120
Richard, Michel, 205
Riedi, Gus, 103
Riou, Hervé, 407
Risley, Mary, 289
Ritz-Carlton, 250
River Café, The, 158, 179–81, 187–202, 204–9, 212, 255, 267, 273, 291, 298, 342, 344, 390, 400
Robert, Jacky, 352
Roberts, Michael, 98, 113, 270
Robins, David, 373
Rodgers, Judy, 30, 328, 354, 355, 359
Romano, Michael, 234n, 308, 402
Romanoff’s, 363
Roots of American Food, 383
Rose, Charlie, 385
Rose et LeFavour, 33
Rosellini, Robert, 333
Rosenthal, Jacob, 131
Rosenzweig, Anne, 106, 402
Rossman, Arnold, 159, 166, 240–41
Rostang, Michel, 315
Roth, Frances, 217, 218, 223
Rothstein, Daniel, 333–37
Rourke, Mary, 88
Rozmarja, Anna, 132
Rubicon, 414
Rubin, Hank, 31
Rush, Karen, 339
Ryan, Tim, 26, 255, 269
Sailhac, Alain, 10–11, 165, 228, 230, 236, 240–43, 245, 291, 344
Salk, Donald, 113, 115, 117
San Francisco earthquake (1989), 376–77
Santa Fe Bar and Grill, 99, 267, 274, 352–53, 363, 365–66, 371
Sant Amour, Sean, 410–11
Santo, Joseph, 328
Saralegui, Fernando, 407
Sarrazin, Marc, 194, 233, 245–47, 255, 346
Saulnier, Louis, 238
Savenor, Jack, 139
Savio, Mario, 14, 38
Savoy, 135
Savoy, Guy, 315, 362
Sawyer, Diane, 306
Scandia, 57, 62
Scharff, Werner, 74
Scheer, Bob, 36
Schenk, John, 248
Schmidt, Jimmy, 14, 259–61, 266, 267–68, 271–72, 273, 275, 276, 278–79, 280, 281, 320–21
Schmitt, Sally and Don, 361–62
Schneller, Robert, 32
Schrafft’s, 178
Schwartz, Arthur, 311
Schwartz, Leonard, 75
Schwertner, Amaryll, 359
Scott, Ridley, 7
Sedlar, John, 72, 76, 87, 323
Senderens, Alain, 245n
72 Market Street, 75
Shapiro, Bobby, 151
Shawn, William, 130
Sheraton, Mimi, 28, 55n, 131–34, 135, 145, 146, 148, 149, 151, 157, 160, 166, 172, 305, 320n
Shere, Charles, 36
Shere, Lindsey, 36, 40
Shields, Brooke, 184
Shire, Lydia, 104n, 258, 269, 421, 423, 424n, 425
Shore, Dinah, 69
Shupnick, Larry, 287
Siegal, Al, 132
Sign of the Dove, 328
Silverton, Nancy, 92–96, 115–16, 117, 298
Simple French Food (Olney), 26, 168
Smith, Peg, 358, 360
Smyth, Ned, 41, 42
Snowden, John, 73
Snyder, Jerome, 43
Society for American Cuisine, 422
Sokolov, Raymond, 131
Soltner, André, xiv, 71, 78, 116, 132, 155–56, 186n, 191, 228, 230, 232–33, 242, 365
Sonnenschmidt, Fritz, 220
Sonnier, Mary, 264
Soulé, Henri, 55, 219, 227–28, 233, 235
Southwestern cuisine, 322–24, 327–28
Spago, 23, 110, 112–22, 123, 271, 274, 298, 301, 322, 326, 360, 366
Spangler, Larry, 62
Spector, Stephen, 189, 193
Speedo 690, 376
Spielberg, Steven, 120
Splichal, Joachim, 124, 222, 252, 332
Springsteen, Bruce, 222–23
Square One, 354
Stallone, Sylvester, 120
Stanford Court, 268–81, 285, 319–23, 330, 363, 376
Stars, 15, 98, 280, 304, 308, 312, 338, 349–50, 354, 358, 363, 364–72, 374–79, 381–82, 385, 387
Star Spangled Foods, 274, 276
Staub, Rusty, 394, 399, 404
Stephan, Rick, 181
Stevens, Cat, 114
Stewart, Martha, 65, 403
Stivers, Bob, 114
Stockli, Albert, 55n
Streisand, Barbra, 120
Studley, George and Helen, 135
Sutherland, Donald, 66
Swallow Cafe, The, 38, 39
Sweeney, John, 126
Swerman, Jannis, 66, 119, 120
Szathmary, Louis, 9
Taillevent, 5, 143, 170
Tanis, David, 354, 360
Taste of Hollywood, A (Terrail), 126
Tavern on the Green, 333, 384–85, 387
Telepan, Bill, 317–18, 343
Tenaglia, Lydia, 384, 385
Terrail, Patrick, 54–59, 62–67, 68–69, 70, 84, 89, 99–101, 108–10, 111, 113–14, 122, 123, 192
Thuilier, Raymond, 61, 128
Time, 320n
Tingle, Ralph, 241, 290, 293, 295, 297, 302–3
Tivy, Matthew, 394
Tower, Jeremiah, 4, 31, 46–51, 98, 162, 222, 258–59, 267, 271–72, 274, 278, 280, 301, 304, 308, 312, 319–22, 343, 349–54, 358, 362–87
Trboyevic, Jovan, 104
Tribeca Grill, 402, 406, 414
Troisgros, Claude, 245n
Troisgros, Jean, 28, 29, 30, 49, 150–51, 315
Troisgros, Michel, 49, 313
Troisgros, Pierre, 28, 204, 252
Troisgros/La Maison Troisgros, 29, 141, 150, 204, 252, 253, 289, 333
Tropp, Barbara, 106
Trotter, Charlie, 415–16, 422, 424n
Trumps, 98
Tsolis, Steve, 342
Tucano, 313
TV dinners, 17
“Underground Gourmet,” 43
Union Square Café, 249, 308, 317, 343, 394, 402
University of California Berkeley, 14, 16, 22, 24, 35
Unterman, Patri
cia, 16, 354–56, 367
Upson, Bill, 361
Urvater, Michèle, 73n, 151–52
Usher, Gregory, 250
Uzielli, Giancarlo, 151
Valenti, Tom, 314–15, 322, 394, 400, 401, 417
Van Aken, Norman, 21, 258, 421–24
Vanessi’s, 352, 366
Vatel Club, 238–39
Vergé, Roger, 29, 64, 71, 101, 165, 236, 333, 414
Vietnam War, 17–18, 24, 37
Villas, James, 263, 363
Virbila, S. Irene, 38
Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 123, 124, 204, 329, 406, 417
Vranian, Steve, 322, 353–54, 373, 376, 382
Vrinat, Jean-Claude, 5
Waccabuc Country Club, 193
Wagenknecht, Lynn, 137, 302
Waldorf-Astoria, 214
Walsh, Brendan, 304, 308, 312, 328, 372, 394
Waltuck, David, 137, 143n, 167–72, 173, 175, 231, 233, 298, 333, 335
Waltuck, Karen, 137, 167–72, 173, 231, 333, 335
Warhol, Andy, 8, 185
Water Club, The, 394, 401, 404
Waters, Alice, 30, 31, 33–40, 44–51, 104, 163, 191, 192, 258, 264, 267, 271–72, 273, 275, 276–78, 300–301, 303, 319–20, 328, 331, 343, 354, 357, 360, 377–81, 383–87, 425
Waxman, Jonathan, 1, 12, 30, 47, 65, 78, 83–84, 89, 91, 95, 96, 98, 99, 107, 108, 191, 222, 258–59, 267, 269, 271–72, 273, 275, 276–77, 279, 280–81, 283–95, 296–305, 309, 312, 319–23, 324–25, 327–28, 338–40, 343, 344–46, 376, 379, 382, 408, 425
Weinstein, Bobby, 40
Weinstein, Michael, 312, 314
Welles, Orson, 63, 65, 67, 69
Wesson, Josh, 138, 148–49, 162, 174, 231, 298
West Beach Cafe, 4–5, 6–7, 72, 74–76, 98
White, Jasper, 12, 226, 258, 269, 332, 381, 423
Whitmer, Brian, 336, 337
Wilder, Billy, 121
Wilder, Gene, 80, 100, 152
Wilkinson, Bill, 268, 280
Willan, Anne, 250
Williams, Robin, 414–15
Windows on the World, 180
Wine, Barry, 137, 138, 142, 146n, 152–67, 170, 172, 174–75, 229–31, 236, 255, 329
Wine, Susan, 137, 138, 146n, 153–56, 158, 161n, 163n, 166–67, 170, 174–75, 231
Winebow Group, The, 393
Wise, Victoria Kroyer, 39–40, 44, 45–46
Wolf, Clark, 46, 48n, 308, 328, 380
Wolfe, Tom, 302
Wolfert, Paula, 146
Women Chefs & Restaurateurs, 106
Wonder, Stevie, 107
Woodstock Music & Art Fair (1969), 15, 18, 85, 423
World’s Fair (1939), 227–28, 244
Yamaguchi, Roy, 87
Yard, Sherry, 110
Yosses, Bill, 239
Zabar’s, 153
Zagat, Tim and Nina, 137
Zakarian, Geoffrey, 344
Zeidler, Marvin, 287
Zero Point Zero, 382, 383–84
Zuni Café, 30, 328, 354, 355, 359, 375, 382
Zweben, Paul, 206–8, 390–91, 392
About the Author
ANDREW FRIEDMAN has chronicled the life and work of some of the best American chefs. He is the author of Knives at Dawn: America’s Quest for Culinary Glory at the Bocuse d’Or, the World’s Most Prestigious Cooking Competition and coeditor of the internationally popular anthology Don’t Try This at Home. He has also coauthored more than two dozen cookbooks and memoirs with chefs including Alfred Portale, Paul Liebrandt, and Michael White, and collaborated on the New York Times bestselling memoir Breaking Back with tennis star James Blake. Friedman writes about chefs on his Toqueland blog and interviews them on his Heritage Radio Network podcast Andrew Talks to Chefs. He lives in New York.
Discover great authors, exclusive offers, and more at hc.com.
Also by Andrew Friedman
Knives at Dawn: America’s Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d’Or Competition
Copyright
Judy Rodgers interview used by permission from Joyce Goldstein.
Chefs from Hell invitation and rules used by permission from Gerry Dawes.
CHEFS, DRUGS AND ROCK & ROLL. Copyright © 2018 by Andrew Friedman. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
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Digital Edition FEBRUARY 2018 ISBN: 978-0-06-222587-0
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* The lotteries were surreally televised, as birthdates were drawn at random and posted on a board, indicating the sequence in which registered participants would be called up.
* Easy Rider—Dennis Hopper’s trippy 1969 independent film about two young men motorcycling from California to New Orleans—was the tip of the cultural iceberg. There were also Ken Kesey’s psychedelic novel One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, published in 1962, and—at the other end of the decade—author Tom Wolfe’s The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, which profiled Kesey and his Merry Pranksters as they traveled cross-country in a brightly painted school bus. Even the razzmatazz of Broadway was supplanted: The musical Hair, about hippies confronting the draft, which debuted in 1968, included the Great White Way’s first nude scene.
* Coffee with steamed milk.
* A banana-like fruit, sautéed.
* Seasoned ground beef.
* The “girl” is now Norman Van Aken’s wife of many decades, Janet.
* The show’s title also forever confused the use of the word chef. If you’ve ever wondered why casual observers have mistakenly referred to home cooks as “chefs,” the problem began there. Sara Moulton, who worked for Child for several years, says that the icon never liked the title because she’d never been a true chef, which would have entailed working in a restaurant.
* A budding journalist and cofounder of the New Left journal Root and Branch, who took on the war-supporting local congressman in the Democratic primary.
* Roy Andries de Groot’s fabled 1973 book-length tribute to a country French restaurant.
* That’s the kind of statement that rankles East Coasters, and even some native Californians. Says Wolf: “In [Waxman’s] life I’m sure it was. It’s just not that important. Do you know what I mean? The entire world does not exist in Berkeley. It just doesn’t. And what you have to understand is some of those people really want to maintain that bubble because it maintains their sense of themselves and
the world. But there are nettles in New Hampshire.”
* A short-term cooking job, often for no pay, undertaken in exchange for knowledge, contacts, and references. The term is an Americanization of the French word stagiaire, which refers to the person working in the position.
* Opened in 1959 in Midtown Manhattan’s Seagram Building, The Four Seasons was a four-hundred-seat restaurant of breathtaking ambition. Built at a cost of $4.5 million, designed by Philip Johnson, with a marble pool and the likes of Picasso and Miró hung on the walls, its extensive menu was created by James Beard, future New York Times critic Mimi Sheraton, and Swiss-born, French-trained chef Albert Stockli. It was ahead of its time in proffering a seasonal menu that also indicated the provenance of many ingredients, and in putting forth a style of food that was, according to author Paul Freedman, “not exactly American but rather modern, eclectic, and cosmopolitan—revolutionary for its time and thereby offering a challenge to French preeminence in high-end dining.”
* Skewers of marinated beef.
* Industry shorthand for “walk-in refrigerator.”
* Actually, cuisine du soleil, or cuisine of the sun.
* In time, as he and Puck became too busy to manage Ma Cuisine, Terrail handed the running of the school over to Judy Gethers, whose family owned Ratner’s restaurant in New York City.
* Villeroy & Boch produced a “basket weave” plate that was a sensation in nouvelle cuisine restaurants in the United States at this time.
* The cook charged with cold preparations such as salads.
* A thickening agent made from equal parts butter and flour.
* In other interviews, Marder has referred to this as “sauté-reduction cooking.”
* In their book Cooking the Nouvelle Cuisine in America, authors Michèle Urvater and David Liederman observe that pre–nouvelle cuisine, sauces “which are an essential part of haute cuisine, were being treated with cavalier contempt . . . sometimes heavily laden with flour to give them a body they did not have on their own, enabling them to stand for hours in a steam table without separating.”