Mrs. Goodfellow
Page 26
Orange Puddings, 226
oranges, as flavoring, 38
Original Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (Farmer), 170
ovens, 3, 5, 6, 92, 112
oysters, 65, 66
Page, Ann, 172
Painter, Mrs. Thomas, 28
Parkinson, George and Eleanor, 79
Parkinson, James, 79
Parkinson's, 78–79
Parloa, Maria, 190–192
pastry (paste)
definition of, 59
importance of making, 99–100
lesson on, 91–92, 93
preparation of, 3–4
recipes for, 227–229
Rorer and, 187
Patent, Greg, 205
Patterson, Jonathan, Jr., 24
Patterson, Mrs. Fred, 167
Patterson, Robert, 75
Patterson, Sarah Engle, 75
Patterson, Therese Bouvier, 24
Peale, Charles Willson, 124, 150
Peale, Raphaelle, 150, 171
pearlash, 35, 133, 165–166
Pearson (husband), 8, 25
peel, 6, 31, 116
Penn, William, 15, 29–30, 49–50, 67
pepper pot, 80
Perfection Salad (Shapiro), 199
Philadelphia
architecture of, 42–44
description of, 12–16, 42–43
famous foods from, 27
as port, 49
Philadelphia Club, 70
Philadelphia Cooking School, 184
Philadelphia School, 188
Physick, Philip Syng, 100, 124
pickles, 219–220
pies, savory, 94–95
Pigs Feet Souced, 219
Platt, June, 204
poetry club, 115
Potato Biscuit, 214
Potato Puddings, 226
potatoes
Potato Biscuit, 214
potato pudding, 27–28
Two Potato Puddings, 226
White Potato Pie, 27–28, 227
preserves, 219–220
Price, Isaac, 124–125
Prichett family, 101
professional associations, 32
puddings
Almond Pudding, 222
Apple Pudding, 222–223
Citron Puddings, 223
Cocoanut Pudding, 224
Lemon Pudding, 225
Mrs. Goodfellow's Lemon Pudding, 225
Orange Puddings, 226
Potato Puddings, 226
puff pastry. see pastry (paste)
Quakers, 25–27, 29–30, 84
Quarterly Meeting Pie, 27
Queen cakes, 5, 37, 161, 169–170, 171, 207–208, 231
Quick Waffles, 217
Raffald, Elizabeth Whitaker, 8, 32–33, 95–96
Raffald, John, 32
Ragou of Onions, 140, 218
ragouts, 140–141
Randolph, Mary, 133, 144–145
Read, William, 17–18
Receipts of Pastry and Cookery (Kidder), 94–95
recipes
breads, 214–217
cakes, 230–231
clarity of, 196
cookies, 220–222
egg and cream desserts, 231–232
format of, 111, 137
meats, 218–219
pastry, 227–229
pies, 227
preserves and pickles, 219–220
puddings, 222–227
for the sick, 232–233
vegetables, 217–218
see also cookbooks
recreational cooking, 201–203
refrigeration, 55–56, 60
see also ice cream
Renshaw, William, 76
restaurants
development of, 63, 65
training for, 200–201
rice puddings, 162
Richards, Ellen Swallow, 181–182
Rombauer, Irma, 204
Rorer, Sarah Tyson, 185–189, 193, 204
rosewater, 38
Ross, Betsy, 19
Royall, Anne, 54
Rubicam, Elizabeth and Daniel, 72, 73–75, 102
Rubicam Pudding, 75–76
Rundell, Maria Eliza Ketelby, 8, 106–108, 169–170
Rush, Benjamin, 124
Rutledge, Sarah, 133
Sago, 232
saleratus, 35, 133, 165–166
salmis, 140–141
Sanderson, James M., 73, 74, 139
scales, 2, 89
Scharf, J. Thomas, 148
Scheone, Laura, 182
Schloesser, Frank, 73
Schuylkill Fishing Company, 69
servants, 19–20
serving meals, methods for, 152–154
Seventy-five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes and Sweetmeats (Leslie), 33–34, 106, 126–127, 128–129, 132, 137, 161, 169, 213
Shapiro, Laura, 199
shop locations
changes in, 20–21
Dock Street, 17–18
Washington Square, 173–176
Short Elbow Alley, 68
Simmons, Amelia, 38, 171
slavery, 60, 64–65, 72–73
Smith, Abraham, 58
Smith, Andrew F., 140
Smith, Parker, 22
social events, 61–62, 118–121
soufflé, omelette, 141–142
Southern cuisine, 145–146
Spanish buns, 4–5, 167–168, 208–209
Spanish Buns, 215–216
Spice Nuts, 221–222
spices, 38
sponge cakes, 37
St. Andrew's Society of Philadelphia, 10–11
State in Schuylkill, 70
Stinger, Mary McLeod, 23
Stowe, Harriet Beecher, 180
street vendors, 80
Stuart, Mary Patterson, 24
Sturgis, Elizabeth, 97
sugar
fruit and, 99
history of, 56–58
popularity of, 95–96
price of, 58–59
slavery and, 60
weighing of, 89
sugar cone, 2
sugar nippers, 2
sugar work, 59, 120
Sully, Thomas, 129
Surgeons Hall, 14
Sweeney, Johanna, 190, 191–192
sweetmeats, definition of, 59
Swiss Cream, 232
table linens, 118–120
table manners, 146–147
table setting, 118–121
Tapioca, 232–233
taverns, 66–68
see also City Tavern
tea parties, 62
terminology, definitions for, 59
terrapins, 73–75, 219
Thackara, William Wood, 24–25
Theophano, Janet, 95
Thomas Butler Mansion, 70
Thousand Years Over a Hot Stove, A (Scheone), 182
Trollope, Frances, 52–53, 99–100
tuition assistance, 185
turtles, 72–73
see also terrapins
Ude, Louis Eustache, 139
Universal Recipe Book, The (Harper), 73
Universal Society, 11
utensils, 120
Vauxhall Gardens, 77
veal, stewed, 218–219
Vernou, Louise, 24
vinegar pie, 164
Virginia House-wife, The (Randolph), 133, 144–145
Waffles, 216, 217
waiters, 154
Walker, Barbara M., 135
War of 1812, 24–25
Warburton, Sir Peter and Lady Elizabeth, 32, 33
Washington, George, 107, 124
Washington Hotel, 72
Washington Square, 173–176
watches, 11–12
Water Gruel, 233
Waterhouse, Benjamin, 105
Watson, John Fanning, 68
Weaver, William Woys, 34, 35, 75, 102, 113–114, 130, 139, 158
Weld, Issac, 55
West Indies, 12–13
&
nbsp; Westcott, Thompson, 148
What to Eat and How to Cook It (Blot), 139–140, 177
wheat, 13
White Fricassee Chickens, 218
see also chicken fricassee
White Potato Pie, 27–28, 227
Widdifield, Hannah, 102–103
Widdifield's New Cook Book (Widdifield), 103
Willan, Anne, 200
Willing, Elizabeth Hannah, 59
wine, Madeira, 49
Wistar, Caspar, 124
Woman's Record, 148–149
women, employment and, 19, 31–32
Women's Education Association, 189–190, 193
Wood, Sarah, 10
yeast, 168
Young Ladies' Guide in the Art of Cookery, The (Marshall), 96
Acknowledgments
In order to properly tell the story of Mrs. Goodfellow and her cooking school, I needed to explore a variety of resources. As someone who loves to do research, I thoroughly enjoyed this “treasure hunt,” especially as I encountered such enthusiasm about the book along the way.
It was an honor to meet with the incredibly knowledgeable food historian William Woys Weaver, with whom I share a passion for early American foodways and food history. He graciously invited me into his beautiful historic home and allowed me to interview him—I can't thank him enough. Jan Longone and Janet Theophano also shared their expertise and patiently allowed me to pepper them with questions. My discussions with these three helped me improve the book and sparked ideas for further investigation. In addition, reading the extensive studies and analyses they have written over the years was fascinating. I learned a great deal from each of these historians and I thank them.
I would also like to extend my gratitude to Glenn R. Mack, President of Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Atlanta, for his continued interest, helpful advice, and information.
A portion of my research centered on the genealogy of the Goodfellow and Leslie families. My sincere appreciation goes to the late Jim Dallett for all his work in this area, and to Matthew Dallett (Jim's son) for sharing the file of his father's findings. In addition, I am indebted to Bouvier descendants Sharon Brandt and Kees van den Berg, and to Kathy Cundith and Abigail Coane Leibell of the Coane family, for disclosing and confirming information about their respective ancestors.
Tracking down background information about Eliza Leslie was not always easy, and the following people kindly fielded my phone calls and e-mails: Charles Virts, Curator of the Champaign County (Ohio) Historical Museum; Etta Madden, English Professor at Missouri State University; Valerie Elliott and Rebecca Evans of the Smith Library of Regional History; Kimberly Tully, Special Collections Librarian at Miami University (Ohio); and Lisa Long of the Ohio Historical Society. Tony Demchak, Ph.D. candidate at Kansas State University saved me a trip to Kansas by transcribing and sending me notes about a noncirculating thesis on Eliza Leslie located in the library there.
Pat O'Donnell, Archivist at the Friends Historical Library of Swarthmore College; Ann Upton, Quaker Bibliographer & Special Collections Librarian at Haverford College; and Diana Franzusoff Peterson of the Magill Library of Haverford College provided assistance with Quaker inquiries and clarifications.
William Rubel and Mercy Ingram answered my questions about hearth cookery, and Mercy even skillfully demonstrated the types of equipment and methods that Mrs. Goodfellow would have used.
Consulting with architecture and public works experts helped me to create an accurate picture of Philadelphia in the early 1800s. Architectural historian Jeff Cohen of Bryn Mawr College was indispensable in offering information about nineteenth-century Philadelphia maps, streets, and buildings. Drew Brown and Adam Levine of the City of Philadelphia Water Department provided detailed responses about the city's water supply during that time frame. Bruce Laverty of the Athenaeum of Philadelphia helped me sort through old Philadelphia maps, directories, and building descriptions.
The numerous libraries and historical societies I visited were extremely accommodating and attentive to my needs. In particular, I would like to thank all the staff at the Historical Society of Pennsylvania, especially Sarah Heim and Steve Smith, who retrieved a seemingly endless number of materials for me. Connie King and Linda August of The Library Company of Philadelphia provided valuable guidance and suggestions. The Rare Book and Manuscript Library at the University of Pennsylvania proved a great resource for manuscript cookbooks and back copies of American Kitchen magazine, and librarians Caitlin Anderson, Lynne Farrington, and Lauren Rile Smith were very responsive to my questions and requests regarding the materials located there.
The Winterthur Library also has a sizable collection of manuscript cookbooks and other Philadelphia-area documents, which Emily Guthrie and Jeanne Solensky helped me sort through. The Independence National Historic Park Library yielded some unexpected finds, including a few handwritten recipe books, which I was able to view with enthusiastic assistance from Karen Stevens. The librarians at the Yardley-Makefield branch of the Bucks County Public Libraries were also very helpful, particularly Barb Likens, who worked tirelessly to obtain all the interlibrary loans I requested.
I would also like to thank the staff of the Spruance Library of the Mercer Museum in Doylestown, Pennsylvania, the Historical Society of Cecil County (Maryland), the Maryland Historical Society, the University of Delaware Special Collections Department, the American Philosophical Society, and the Free Library of Philadelphia for handling my questions and helping me track down various materials.
This project would never have come to completion without all the support I received from friends and family. My husband and children patiently endured my highs and lows as my research revealed some surprising discoveries—and some dead ends. Luckily I was able to regain my family's favor when I tried my hand at baking some of Mrs. Goodfellow's specialties and enlisted them to sample and comment on the experimental treats. I would also like to thank my fellow members of the Yardley United Methodist Church who willingly tasted several Goodfellow concoctions that I served during coffee hour on various occasions.
I am grateful to my friend Carol Lambard, who was instrumental in getting the book started by recommending Bruce H. Franklin as a publisher. In turn, I am very appreciative of Bruce for giving me this opportunity and having faith that I could piece together an interesting story. Both Bruce and his wife Laura listened to my ideas, made suggestions, and gave me constructive suggestions along the way.
I would also like to thank Kristen Greaves, Elisa Malinoff, Lori Raso, Amy Gazaleh, and Terri Hawkes for child care assistance so I could make the many necessary research trips into Philadelphia, and Theresa Derderian for generously reading the manuscript and offering meaningful observations.
Many thanks to my parents, Arthur and Mary Libourel, who have always encouraged me in all my endeavors and taught me the strong work ethic that helped get me through this project. Most important, I probably would never have had this idea in the first place if it were not for the life-long cooking inspiration I have received from the talented women in my family. I continue to acquire cooking skills from my mother, Mary Libourel, who is simply a wonder in the kitchen. She makes hosting holiday meals and cookouts for our ever-growing family several times a year look effortless. She and my grandmother, Catherine Ellsworth, were both exceptionally adept at putting wholesome food on the table for large families. I'd also like to mention the influence of my aunts: Nancy Prince, Joan Mansell, and Sally Brough—three great cooks whom I have enjoyed observing over the years. These five ladies—all graduates of home economics programs—helped shape my interest in cooking. I thank you all.
grayscale(100%); -ms-filter: grayscale(100%); filter: grayscale(100%); " class="sharethis-inline-share-buttons">share