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A Book of Mediterranean Food

Page 18

by Unknown


  and spaghetti, 53

  stuffed, 52

  MUTTON (see also LAMB)

  cassoulet toulousain, 102

  filets de mouton en chevreuil, 80

  gigot en chevreuil, 79

  à la provençale, 76

  kebabs, 77

  kokkorétsi, 79

  mousaká, 37

  ragoût à la catalane, 105

  Suliman’s pilaff, 98

  tranche de mouton à la catalane, 79

  Turkish stuffing for whole roast sheep, 79

  Neapolitan spaghetti, 101

  Newnham-Davis, Lt-Col., ‘A Venetian Breakfast’, 49

  noodles

  in chicken broth, 102

  sauce of dried cèpes for, 185

  Norman’s recipe for veal escalopes, 74

  octopus, 67. See also Calamari; Ink-fish

  oie. See Goose

  okrochka, 26

  olives, 149

  omelettes

  au brocciu (cheese), 36

  mussel, 36

  savoury (Wyvern), 31

  onions

  agrodolce, 134

  and egg tart, 35

  à la monégasque, 155

  in pissaladina, 39

  orange

  and almond cake, 167

  cream, 168

  and quince salad, 169

  sliced and sugared, 169

  soufflé, cold, 163

  osso buco, 75

  paëlla valenciana, 95, 97

  pain perdu, 166

  palace bread, 163

  pan bagnia, 153

  partridges

  cooked Klephti fashion, 113

  with grapes, 112

  Italian stuffing for, 112

  à la provençale, 112

  patafla, 154

  patátes, 129

  pâté

  of chicken livers, 144

  of hare, 144

  of rabbit, 144

  paupiettes

  of tongue, 38

  of veal Clémentine, 74

  peaches

  jam, 177

  in wine, 170

  pears

  à l’aigre-doux, 175

  baked in wine, 168

  in raisiné de Bourgogne, 177

  peas

  dried, purée, with boudin, 43

  with eel, 62

  with mackerel, 62

  purée of fresh peas with fillet of pork, 85

  peas, chick. See Chick peas

  peppers. See Pimentos

  pebronata de boeuf, 83

  perdreaux. See Partridges

  petits pois. See Peas

  pictí, 147

  pigeons à la romanaise, 113

  pilaff, Suliman’s, 98

  pimentos

  with calf’s liver, 38

  with chicken, 110

  with cold meat, 148

  with pig’s liver, 147

  in ratatouille, 131

  salad, 155

  sauté, 137

  soup, iced, 27

  stuffed with quails, 114

  stuffed with rice, 136

  piselli. See Peas

  pissaladina, pissaladière, 39

  pistou (soup), 17

  pizza, 39

  plakí, fish, 61

  plover and mushrooms, 114

  plums à l’aigre-doux, 175

  poireaux. See Leeks

  poires. See Pears

  pois chiches. See Peas, chick

  poivrade sauce, 80

  polenta, 100

  di castagne, with kid, 87

  polio. See Chicken

  pomegranates, 161

  pommes de terre. See Potatoes

  PORK

  brawn (picti), 147

  cassoulet, 102

  chanfaïna of pig’s liver, 147

  chops, marinated and grilled, 85

  filet frais truffé froid, 147

  aux pois nouveaux, 85

  en sanglier, 85

  rôti à la purée de pommes, 84

  terrine de campagne, 144

  potatoes

  Anna, 127

  kephtédes, 127

  à la manière d’Apt, 128

  en matelote, 128

  purée with roast pork, 84

  potatoes, sweet (patátes), 129

  prawns

  in paëlla, 95

  in risotto, 94

  in soup, 21, 23

  Dublin Bay fried, 50

  in ragoût, 54

  in soup, 20

  preserved mixed fruit, 177

  preserves. See Jams and preserves

  provençale sauce with crayfish, 53

  prunes

  fritters, 164

  glacé, stuffed, 176

  pumpkin, in Basque soup, 17

  purée Léontine, 18

  quails in pimentos, 114

  quince

  compote, 171

  and orange salad, 169

  paste, 176

  preserve, 177

  RABBIT

  au coulis de lentilles, 124

  in melokhia (soup), 23

  pâté, 144

  ragoût

  de mouton à la catalane, 105

  of shell fish, 54

  raisiné de Bourgogne, with pears, 177

  raïto, 63

  ratatouille, 131

  aux oeufs, 35

  Reboul, La Cuisinière Provençale, on bouillabaisse, 59

  red mullet. See Mullet, red

  rice to boil, 99

  a la catalana, 97

  with Circassian chicken, 110

  Genoese rice, 98

  paella valenciana, 95, 97

  risotto with mushrooms, 93

  with shell fish, 94

  salad, 143

  soup with risotto, 19

  stuffed pimentos, 136

  stuffed tomatoes, 134

  Suliman’s pilaff, 98

  in vine leaves, 150

  risotto

  with mushrooms, 93

  with shell fish, 94

  in soup, 19

  rissoles, meat (youvarlakia), with avgolémono sauce, 186

  rognons braisés au porto, 38

  Romesco, lobster, 53

  rôti de porc à la purée de pommes, 84

  saddle of boar, 88

  SALADS

  aubergine, 151

  cucumber, pickled, 156

  fruit, 162

  haricot beans, 155

  niçoise, 153

  pickled cucumber, 156

  pimento (sweet pepper), 155

  Provençal, 155

  rice, 143

  spinach, 155

  sweet pepper, 155

  salt cod

  brandade, 63

  in raïto, 63

  sandwich, Provençal, 153

  sardines

  fritters, 62

  marinés à la niçoise, 152

  SAUCES

  aïllade, 188

  aïoli, 188

  avgolémono, 186

  béarnaise, 182

  béchamel, 182

  bolognese, for polenta or spaghetti, 101, 184

  cappon magro, 190

  catalane, 185

  cèpes, dried, sauce for spaghetti, 185

  chasseur, 86

  chevreuil, 186

  Choron, 183

  à la crème d’oursins, 189

  dried cèpe sauce for spaghetti, 185

  espagnole, 181

  Foyot, 183

  garlic butter for snails, 46

  hollandaise, 183

  mayonnaise, 187

  Mohammed’s sauce for fish, 188

  mousseline, 184

  pebronata, 190

  piquante, 186

  poivrade, 80

  provençale, 53

  raïto, 63

  Romesco, 53

  rouille, for fish, 189

  sea urchin, 189

  skordaliá, 188

  Syrian, for fish, 190

  tahina, 152, 153

  tapénade, of
capers, 189

  tartare, 187

  tomato, 184

  fresh, 101

  paste, 185

  with peppers, 190

  Turkish salad dressing, 187

  vinaigrette, 187

  walnut

  for chicken, 142

  for trout, 62

  yoghourt, with pilaff, 98

  sausage, boudin, 43

  scaloppine of calf’s liver with pimentos, 38

  scallops coquilles St Jacques à la crème, 50

  fried à la provençale, 51

  scampi

  fried, 50

  in ragoût of shell fish, 54

  in shell-fish soup, 23

  sea urchins, sauce of, 189

  shell fish. See Fish, shell

  sherkasiya, 110

  shops: for ingredients, 42, 64, 68, 77, 95, 97, 123, 151, 152;

  for tools, 46

  Siphniac honey pie, 164

  Sitwell, Osbert, ‘Luncheon at Montegufon’, 141

  skordaliá, 188

  Smollet, Tobias, ‘The Fish of th Côte Niçoise’, 56

  snails

  Alin Laubreaux on cooking, 44

  garlic butter for, 46

  snipe and mushrooms, 114

  soufflé

  apricot, 163

  orange, cold, 163

  SOUPS

  avgolémono, 17

  Basque, 17

  catalane, 18

  cucumber, hot, 19

  fish, 20, 21, 22

  haricot bean, 19

  Jerusalem artichoke, 19

  Mediterranean fish soup, 21

  melokhia, 23

  mussel, 22

  pistou, 17

  purée Léontine, 18

  with risotto, 19

  tomato and shell-fish, 23

  white fish, 22

  zuppa di pesce, 20

  SOUPS, ICED

  beetroot, 26

  chicken and tomato consomme, 25

  cucumber jelly, 24

  gaspacho, 24

  okrochka, 26

  pimento, 27

  spaghetti, 100

  with mussels, 53

  Neapolitain, 101

  sauce

  bolognese, 184

  dried cèpes, 185

  sicilienne, 101

  tomato paste for, 185

  spanakopittá, 42

  spinach

  in bouillabaisse, 41

  in burek, 41

  salad, 155

  in spanakopittá, 42

  squid, 68

  Stein, Gertrude, on eggs, 34

  stiphádo, 81

  stuffing

  for partridges, 112

  for roast chicken, 111

  for whole roast sheep, 79

  Suliman’s pilaff, 98

  suppions, 68

  sweet peppers, salad of, 155. See also Pimento

  sweet potatoes, 129

  sweets, note on Mediterranean, 160

  ta’amia, 137

  tahina, 152, 153

  tapénade, 189

  taramá, 151

  tarte

  à l’oignon et aux oeufs, 35

  aux tomates, 37

  temperatures, equivalent gas and electric, 14

  terrine de campagne, 144

  tian, 153

  tiri, tiganisméno, 43

  tirópittá, 42

  tomatoes

  and chicken consommé, iced, 25

  fromagées, 135

  paste, for sauce, 185

  to preserve, 178

  provençales, 134

  sauce, 184

  and shell-fish soup, 23

  stuffed à la grecque, 134

  tart, 37

  tongue, beef, en paupiettes, 38

  torrijas, 165

  tranche de mouton à la catalane, 79

  trout with walnuts, 62

  tunny fish, fresh, 64

  urchins, sea, sauce of, 189

  VEAL

  bocconcini, 74

  côtes de veau Foyot, 75

  Norman’s recipe, 74

  osso buco, 75

  paupiettes de veau Clémentine, 74

  terrine de campagne, 144

  VEGETABLES

  aïgroissade toulonnaise, 131

  aubergine à l’arménienne, 130

  dolmas, 130

  fritters, 129, 130

  in a marinade, 151

  in ratatouille, 131

  broad beans and artichokes, 133

  and bacon, 133

  carrots au blanc, 129

  with calf’s liver, 106

  cauliflower al stracinati, 133

  celeriac farci, 133

  cèpes à la bordelaise, 136

  dried: note on, 123;

  in sauce for spaghetti, 185

  à l’italienne, 136

  chick peas, 132

  with mutton, 105

  with tahina, 152

  courgettes fritters, 129

  with tomatoes, 129

  fasoūlia (haricot beans), 137

  fennel, 132

  haricot beans. See Fasoūlia above; Ta’amia opposite

  leeks à la grecque, 155

  à la provençale, 131

  lentils with rabbit, 124

  mushrooms à l’arménienne, 135

  à la provençale, 135

  and snipe, 114

  onions agrodolce, 134

  à la monégasque, 155

  peas with eel, 62

  with mackerel, 62

  purée of fresh peas with pork, 85

  pimentos with calf’s liver, 38

  with chicken, 110

  with cold meat, 148

  with pig’s liver, 147

  in ratatouille, 131

  sauté, 137

  stuffed with quails, 114

  stuffed with rice, 136

  potatoes Anna, 127

  kephtédes, 127

  à la manière d’Apt, 128

  en matelote, 128

  purée, with roast pork, 84

  ratatouille, 131

  spinach en bouillabaisse, 41

  sweet potatoes, 129

  ta’amia (haricot beans), 137

  tomatoes fromagées, 135

  provençales, 134

  stuffed à la grecque, 134

  vine leaves

  with cèpes, 136

  stuffed, 150

  walnuts

  with chicken, 142

  with cold trout, 62

  and honey cream, 171

  in ralto, 63

  stuffed, in syrup, 178

  water melon stuffed with blackberries 161

 

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