The Winter Sea

by Morrissey, Di

  ‘I’d be very interested in seeing your farm, Howard. I’m looking for good local produce for the restaurant I’m starting,’ said Cassie.

  ‘We supply a few places in Sydney as well as the local supermarket in Whitby. We do a line of gourmet cheeses you might be interested in. Here’s our card,’ said Howard.

  ‘They make some fantastic Italian cheeses too. Their burrata is my downfall,’ said Michael.

  ‘I’ll make an appointment,’ said Cassie, slipping their card into her handbag. ‘Are you also connected to the Aquino family?’ she asked Marie. ‘I’m wondering why you’re specialising in Italian cheeses.’

  ‘Of course! I’m the niece of Ricardo’s wife’s sister,’ said Marie.

  Cassie laughed. ‘What a family! Did you get some good photos of the surprise arrival?’ she asked Michael.

  ‘I did. Thank goodness the surprise was a surprise, but there’s more to come. There’s still the cutting of the birthday cake, as well as dancing and of course yet more food. I hope you’re not bored – any time you want to leave, let me know.’

  ‘No, this is fun. Everyone is terrific, not to mention the food!’

  ‘We’re about to go and eat. Do come and visit our place, Cassie.’ Howard and Marie waved as they headed for the still-groaning tables of food.

  ‘How’s life in the boatshed going?’ Michael asked.

  ‘Bill and I love it. It’s a bit basic, especially without a working kitchen. Bit hard to cook everything in a microwave, but I’m looking at kitchen equipment, ovens and hot plates with Steve. So things are moving on. The best part is the end of the day when everyone has gone. Bill and I sit on that deck by ourselves and admire the lovely view across the lake. Very special.’

  ‘Bit of a change of lifestyle for you. Oh, here’s Ray, Ricardo’s son, to make a toast. Raimondo is Frank’s father.’

  Ray made a simple but moving speech saying that the family were not only proud of Ricardo reaching the milestone of ninety but also of his lifetime of achievements not just in the fishing industry but in the Whitby Point community. He then introduced the local mayor, who had been asked to make the formal toast.

  The mayor kept his remarks brief, paying tribute to Ricardo and his remarkable family.

  ‘The Aquino family are part of the history of the New South Wales south coast – from Wollongong to Whitby Point and other far-flung locations. Along with the local fishing fraternity they established a significant industry, exporting to Japan and other international markets. From their Italian heritage they have blended the best of the Mediterranean traditions with the finest Australian ways, using a combination of old-world skills to focus on sustainable and environmentally safe fishing practices. The Aquino family have upheld the best of their old country and combined it with the Aussie way of life to be an example of what multiculturalism really means. Ricardo’s father Joe, who landed here as a young man and made good, should make every Australian migrant feel proud. Ricardo has followed in his father’s footsteps. He is not just a great fisherman but a good citizen whose involvement in his community, always with the highest ethical standards, is a beacon for us all. I now have the honour of proposing a toast to you on the occasion of your ninetieth birthday – buon compleanno! To Ricardo!’

  Everyone raised a glass, waved, clapped and sang ‘Happy Birthday’.

  The cake was cut and slices were passed around as the band took to the stage to play once again.

  ‘This is yummy – a kind of Italian–Aussie sponge cake combo,’ said Cassie. ‘Topped with whipped cream and strawberries like a pavlova!’

  ‘The custard in the middle is special, it’s got homemade limoncello in it. Now, come and meet Uncle Pietro. I’ll introduce you to Uncle Ricardo as soon as we can get him on his own.’

  As they approached Pietro, the elderly man rose to his feet, took Cassie’s hand and kissed it. ‘Charmed. Michael tells me you are new here. A wonderful addition to a sleepy village!’ His accent was American and the combination of European charm and friendly American manners was captivating. Cassie felt flattered.

  ‘Thank you. I don’t believe it’s as sleepy as all that, although I suppose after Hollywood it might look that way. Are you busy with a film at the moment?’

  ‘I lead a simple life these days. I pick and choose my projects now, though I have agreed to be the set consultant for the remake of Don Quixote with Johnny Depp.’

  ‘Johnny Depp, wow!’ said Cassie. ‘Do you travel to the locations of the films you work on?’

  ‘Not anymore. Travelling tires me. When I came here I flew first class and that helps.’

  ‘It must mean a lot to your brother to have you here,’ said Cassie. ‘He has quite a family.’

  ‘I can’t keep tabs on all of them anymore.’

  ‘Hollywood is a big jump from the fishing industry,’ said Cassie.

  ‘I was never cut out for the fishing industry. I get seasick!’ said Pietro, laughing. ‘I was the creative one so I made the big move.’

  ‘You certainly are creative,’ said Cassie. ‘I’d love to know more about how you work, but there’s so many of the family wanting to chat with you.’

  ‘We can catch up with you again later, Uncle Pietro,’ said Michael. As they moved away, Michael said quietly, ‘Cassie, some of the family are gathering at Uncle Ricardo’s house for a quiet drink when all the formalities here are over. Could you stand to come along? Leave the dancing and drinking to the others?’

  ‘That would be lovely, if you’re sure I won’t be out of place at such a family gathering. Michael, is d’Aquino your uncle Pietro’s professional name?’

  ‘No, it’s our original family name. When his father came to Australia, he wanted to fit in, so he dropped the ‘d’ from d’Aquino and insisted that he be called Joe instead of Giuseppe. The story goes that he also wanted to call his sons Australian names, but my great-grandmother Evalina wouldn’t hear of it, so they were all given Italian names. Now, of course, there’s a mixture of Australian and Italian names in the family.’

  ‘You certainly are an interesting family. I’m looking forward to meeting more of them.’

  Later after the party had ended, Michael and Cassie went to a large brick house built above the wharf some time in the seventies, although the interior looked more like the 1950s. There was family memorabilia throughout most of the rooms.

  ‘It’s a bit of a museum. Uncle Ricardo can’t bear to throw away anything to do with the family.’

  ‘I think that’s nice,’ said Cassie as she stopped in front of the fireplace. Above the mantelpiece was a glass-fronted box in which was mounted a large forked spear. ‘What’s that?’

  ‘That’s a traffena. They used it to spear the big tuna back in the old country. It belonged to my great-grandfather Joe. He brought it with him when he left his island home in Italy to come to Australia.’

  ‘That’s some family heirloom,’ said Cassie.

  ‘Yes, our family has much to thank my father for,’ said Ricardo, coming up behind them.

  ‘Uncle, this is Cassie, she’s just moved here. She’s going to start a restaurant at Blue Crane Lake.’

  ‘Wonderful, wonderful. You have introduced her to Frank, of course.’

  ‘Yes, thank you, he has. I wouldn’t buy seafood anywhere else. He brought me some enormous lobsters the other day! I couldn’t believe the size of them,’ said Cassie.

  Ricardo smiled. ‘When I was a young boy, my brothers and I used to go diving for them. But Pietro was not so good!’ He smiled as Pietro walked over to them. ‘He was more interested in sunbaking or going to the pictures.’

  Pietro laughed. ‘Now every time I eat a lobster tail I think of you, Ricardo.’

  ‘Rubbish. You’re too busy with your movie stars to think of us. But I am glad you are here.’

  ‘Come, everyone, we must all drink another toast to my aging brother,’ said Pietro, raising his glass.

  ‘You are not so far behind me,’ said Ricardo fondly.


  Some more people came over to congratulate Ricardo so Michael and Cassie moved away. ‘They are very different characters,’ said Michael. ‘But very close. I’m so glad Uncle Pietro came.’

  ‘Yes. Ricardo said that he had other brothers. Where are they?’

  ‘He meant my grandfather Carlo. He died a long time ago.’

  ‘Oh, that’s sad. Did you know him?’

  ‘No. It happened years before I was born.’

  ‘Still, you do seem to be a close-knit family,’ said Cassie.

  ‘We are,’ said Michael. ‘We all tend to do our own thing, even keep a little distance, and I can go some time without seeing any of them. That way we never wear out our welcome. But if I see a cousin or some relative in the street, like Frank, I always stop and chat for a bit. We all know we’re here for each other if anyone needs us, blood being thicker than water as they say.’

  ‘This is special, to be in the place where the family started its life in Australia and still has a sense of connection with each other across the generations. Everyone seems very proud of Ricardo’s father Joe.’

  ‘There are a lot of stories about him. He was a very strong character and a very successful person who arrived in this country with nothing but with hard work built up a flourishing fishing business, which continues to this day. Cassie, there are my parents. Let me introduce you.’

  Cassie shook hands with Michael’s parents, Bob and Greta, and asked them how they liked life in the Blue Mountains. Then Michael’s sisters Rosemary and Linda, from Melbourne and Sydney respectively, joined them. Chatting to them all, Cassie was impressed by their friendliness and their interest in her restaurant project. A dark Italian-looking woman wandered over to join their little circle.

  ‘Cassie, have you met Angela? This is Frank’s wife,’ said Michael.

  ‘Nice to meet you,’ said Cassie, hiding her surprise, as she had no idea that Frank was married.

  ‘Nice to meet you, too. How are things with you, Michael?’ Angela asked.

  ‘Just the same. No, actually, things are good, really good. Hasn’t this event been a success? I think Ricardo is really chuffed at all the attention, despite saying he didn’t want any fuss.’

  ‘I was a bit worried that he might overdo things, but it’s all good. I’d better go and see to the kitchen. There’s more food if you’d like some,’ she said to Cassie.

  ‘I couldn’t! I feel I’ve done nothing but eat. It’s all been delicious. Can I help you?’

  Angela shook her head. ‘It’s okay, we have it organised, but thanks.’

  As she walked away Cassie said to Michael in a low voice, ‘I didn’t realise Frank was married. Does he have kids?’

  ‘Three boys and a girl. Frank likes to flirt so he doesn’t talk about his family to attractive young women,’ said Michael. ‘But he never puts a foot wrong or does anything he shouldn’t. He knows Angela would eat him alive.’

  Cassie laughed. ‘Well, I was glad Frank came by with the lobster when he did. My soon to be ex-husband dropped in unexpectedly and I gave him the idea I’m surrounded by handsome Italian studs down here.’

  Michael smiled. ‘There’s a whole tribe of us. Take your pick! Let us know if your ex visits again!’

  ‘I doubt he’ll drop by again. I’ve made sure of that.’

  ‘Good,’ said Michael, smiling. ‘Had enough family chitchat? I have another family lunch tomorrow so I’m ready for a break.’

  ‘It’s not so late, why not drop me home and stay for a drink on the deck if you like. Bill will be pleased to see you and anxious for his dinner.’

  ‘I’d like that. I’ll just let them know we’re going.’

  ‘I’ll say goodbye to your uncles. They’re quite a pair,’ said Cassie.

  *

  Michael lingered, reluctant to leave the deck where they were sitting. The stars were bright, reflecting on the lake’s smooth surface. The occasional splash of a jumping fish caused Bill, who was stretched out between them, to lift his head every now and then.

  ‘Probably a mullet. Not worth the effort, Bill. Go back to sleep. Do you want anything to drink, Michael?’ asked Cassie.

  ‘No, thanks, I’ve had enough and I have to drive home. I should be going. It’s been a big day, a big week, actually. I’m glad for Ricardo’s sake it all came together and that Pietro was able to make the journey.’

  The two chatted about the party and Cassie told Michael how nice his parents and siblings were.

  ‘Yes, they are a good bunch. They’re probably back at my place now, so I’d better head home. Guess this hasn’t been such an exciting day for you, eh Bill? No walk tonight.’ He patted the dog.

  ‘I’ll make it up to him in the morning. Goodnight, Michael. Thanks for a terrific day.’

  He smiled. ‘I’ve noticed that you’ve stopped wearing your wedding ring.’ And with that he reached out and wrapped his arms around her. Instead of pulling away Cassie lifted her face to his and he kissed her. It was a kiss of warmth, hinting at more to come. Finally they separated, both a little breathless.

  ‘I’d better go, right now. Or I won’t want to go,’ he said softly.

  Cassie felt confused. She wasn’t entirely sure that she wanted him to go either, but she knew that this was not the right moment for him to stay. So she said nothing but watched him as he turned and walked out into the night.

  *

  The days blurred in a frenzy of activity as Geoff and his offsider, an energetic young chippie, flung themselves into fixing up the restaurant. Additional talents – a sparky and a plumber – came and went. Geoff ran every decision, large and small, past Cassie and even though she had no expert knowledge, she discovered she could visualise and understand what he was talking about.

  ‘Geoff, I don’t know the mechanics of how you can do this, but I can see that by facing this way, with the door opening that way, we could open up that space a bit more, and then we could squeeze another cupboard in.’ She waved her arms about and pointed, and, amazingly, Geoff nodded and knew exactly what she meant.

  Cassie was physically and mentally exhausted from dealing with the chaos of living with builders and the remodelling, thinking through all the other things that had to be done and hunting down the things she needed. Equipment, menus, staff, marketing, publicity, supplies, produce and deliveries all had to be set up. She spoke to her mother when she had the chance and was grateful that Jenny knew exactly what was going on and could offer practical advice.

  ‘Pay careful attention to the lighting, Cassie. It plays such a big part in the ambience of the place. I’m pleased that you’ve given up the idea of linen tablecloths for every day. It would cost you a fortune in laundry bills. Save them for special occasions, private functions,’ she advised. ‘How are you going with wait staff? Got anyone yet? I think it’s a really good idea that you’re going the local fresh and organic route and using what is in season and available, but it’s a lot more trouble than using general wholesalers.’

  ‘I know, Mum. But using as many local ingredients as possible is part of the attraction and the theme of this place. Fresh, wholesome, organic and unusual food. Creative cookery. I want this to be a place where you turn up on the day and eat what’s available. Maybe limited choice, but always fresh and fabulous.’

  ‘There you go. Perhaps you could set up a mystery plate each day. Use whatever is abundant, on special, or in oversupply and throw it into a special dish,’ she suggested. ‘Of course the biggest worry for you is running out of local produce. These speciality farmers aren’t into mass production and their crops mightn’t be particularly reliable.’

  ‘True, but I figure that the shortages will be mainly in winter and I won’t have so many customers then. I may close altogether,’ Cassie replied.

  She rose early every day, and made it a habit to have a solid breakfast before Geoff and the others arrived as she rarely stopped for lunch and was on the run most of the day. Bill waited patiently for his breakfast and then
the two of them went for a quick walk, arriving back to find Geoff hammering and measuring.

  She and Steve spent hours going over menu plans and contingencies should the ingredients they wanted not be available. They visited Sublime Pastures and sampled their cheeses.

  ‘I have the tomato man with his mate’s olive oil signed up. The organic vegie farm will be our main supplier, which we can top up with seasonal produce from wherever we can source it. I have my eye on that old fig tree in Michael’s garden that his grandmother planted. The organic beef farmer has some beautiful cuts. And Angela, Frank’s wife, told me about an old chap who makes his own salamis and pressed meats as well as smoking his own hams, and he’ll even smoke fish for special orders,’ Cassie told Steve.

  ‘Sounds as though he does a lot. I hope he isn’t too old for such intensive, hands-on work,’ said Steve.

  ‘Angela told me he has a grandson who wants to learn how to do that sort of thing, too, so he’s passing on his skills,’ said Cassie. ‘I think quite a few kids have found a vocation in the food industry these days.’

  ‘It could have something to do with all those cooking shows on TV. Kids want to become chefs,’ said Steve. ‘But training in a kitchen is hard work, especially when you’re at the bottom of the totem pole. I was trained by a great chef, but, boy, did he work me hard. Still, the food industry is a great thing to be part of, if you’re prepared to put in the effort. Good on those who want to try.’

  ‘I hope the staff will work out,’ added Cassie. ‘Sonia and Amy seem enthusiastic and as young mothers they are really keen to job-share the waitressing role.’

  ‘Jobs are a bit hard to come by in this neck of the woods, so I’m sure they’ll put in the effort. More importantly, I need a sous chef. Someone willing to do the grunt work for me in the kitchen who can also whip up a side dish.’

  ‘Yes, I know. I’m on the case. How would you feel about someone not so young?’

  ‘As long as they can keep up with the pace. Who do you have in mind?’

  ‘Mollie. A friend of Trixie’s. Trixie says she’s got energy plus and is looking for work. She was thinking of starting a lawnmowing business!’