Lonely Planet Buenos Aires

by Lonely Planet

  This small but worthwhile anthropological museum was created by Juan B Ambrosetti not only as an institute for research and university training but also as an educational center for the public. On display are archaeological and anthropological collections from the Andean Northwest and Patagonia. Beautiful indigenous costumes are also featured, while an African and Asian room showcases some priceless pieces.

  Farmacia de la EstrellaNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-4040; http://farmaciadelaestrella.com/; Defensa 201; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; bLínea E Bolívar)

  The Farmacia de la Estrella (1835) is a functioning homeopathic pharmacy with gorgeous woodwork and elaborate late-19th-century ceiling murals depicting health-oriented themes.

  La Librería de AvilaNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://libreriaavila.mercadoshops.com.ar/; Adolfo Alsina 500; h8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; bLínea E Bolívar)

  The city's oldest bookstore – there has been a bookshop on this historic corner site since 1785 – has a number of rare and antique texts as well as recent publications. Look for the picture near the entrance depicting the store as it looked in colonial times.

  Iglesia San Ignacio de LoyolaCHURCH

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sanignaciodeloyola.org.ar; Bolívar 225; h8am-8pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8:30pm Thu, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun; bLínea E Bolívar)F

  The city’s oldest church, the Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola (1734), was originally built in adobe in 1661 and has been rebuilt or remodeled several times since.

  TOP SIGHT

  Casa Rosada

  On the eastern side of Plaza de Mayo stands the Casa Rosada (Pink House), named for its distinctive color. It was from the balcony here that Eva Perón famously addressed the throngs of impassioned supporters packed into Plaza de Mayo. The building houses the Argentine President's offices; the presidential residence is in the suburb of Olivos, north of the center.

  One theory goes that the Casa Rosada's pink hue represented President Sarmiento's attempts to make peace during his 1868–74 term (by blending the red of the Federalists with the white of the Unitarians), but the more likely explanation is that it was caused by mixing white paint with bovine blood, a common practice in the late 19th century.

  The side of the palace that faces Plaza de Mayo is actually the back of the building. It was from these balconies that Juan and Eva Perón preached to throngs of impassioned Argentines, and a triumphant Diego Maradona hoisted the 1986 World Cup. On December 20, 2001, President Fernando de la Rúa fled the Casa Rosada's roof by helicopter as the economy collapsed. Free hour-long guided tours are given at weekends and must be booked online in advance; bring ID.

  Don't Miss

  AThe Evita balcony

  AThe busts of former presidents (including Néstor Kirchner)

  AEva Perón's former desk

  AThe 1910 presidential elevator

  Practicalities

  APink House

  A MAP GOOGLE MAP

  A%011-4344-3804

  Ahttps://visitas.casarosada.gob.ar

  APlaza de Mayo

  Ahtours in Spanish 10am-6pm Sat & Sun, in English 2:30pm Sat & Sun

  AbLínea A Plaza de Mayo

  5Eating

  You won’t find Buenos Aires’ best cuisine in the Center, as most restaurants here cater to business power-lunches or quick takeout. Some eateries don’t even open for dinner since the working masses beeline home after the day is done; even bars tend to open and close relatively early here. All this doesn’t mean you won’t find a decent bite to eat, however, and vegetarians especially might find some good choices.

  Latino SandwichSANDWICHES$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4331-0859; www.latinosandwich.com; Tacuari 185; sandwiches AR$65-75; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri; bLínea A Piedras)

  Some of the best eateries in BA are holes-in-the-wall – and here’s a case in point. This is the downtown place to grab sandwiches such as Argentine milanesa (but with rocket and guacamole!), barbecue pork with cheddar cheese, or grilled zucchini and eggplant. There’s only one communal table, as they cater to a mostly to-go business clientele.

  180 Burger BarBURGERS$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4328-7189; www.facebook.com/180burgerbar/; Suipacha 749; burgers AR$90; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Lavalle)

  Hankering for a hamburger? Then join the young crowd that will likely be lined up at this small diner. Choose a ‘salsa’ (mayochimi, tzatziki, barbacoa) and add the cheese option if you wish. Chow down within the confines of concrete walls, clunky furniture and blasting music.

  VitaHEALTH FOOD$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4600-8164; www.vitamarket.com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 583; mains AR$70-95; h8am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu & Fri, 10:30am-1am Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; v; bLínea E Bolívar)

  Here’s a hippie-ish, casual and health-oriented eatery offering tasty vegetarian dishes such as organic seitan pizzas, lentil burgers and vegetable calzones. Various freshly mixed juices are available (with the option of adding a wheatgrass shot) and there are plenty of gourmet salads. Organic coffee is also served. Another branch is in Palermo.

  GranixVEGETARIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-7546; Florida 165, 1st fl, Galería Güemes; per kilo AR$210; h11am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; v; bLínea D Catedral)

  Stepping into this large, modern vegetarian eatery will make you wonder if porteños have had enough steak already. Pick from the many hot appetizers and mains; there’s also a great salad bar and plenty of desserts. It’s only open for weekday lunches, and located in a shopping mall (look for the stairs on the right). Takeout is available.

  D’OroITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-6959; Perú 159; mains AR$190-300; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri; bLínea E Bolívar)

  This tiny, popular lunch spot is a serious Italian wine bar and restaurant to rival others in more gastronomically famous neighborhoods. Come for thin, crispy, oven-baked pizzas, mushroom risotto, fettuccine with shellfish and garlic-topped focaccia.

  BroccolinoITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-7754; www.broccolino.com; Esmeralda 776; mains AR$120-280; hnoon-11:30pm; v; bLínea C Lavalle)

  Pick from over 20 sauces (including squid ink!) for your pasta, with a choice of rigatoni, fusilli, pappardelle and all sorts of stuffed varieties. If you can’t decide on your topper, try the delicious Sicilian sauce (spicy red peppers, tomato and garlic) or the pesto with mushrooms and garlic. Portions are large and the bread homemade.

  Tomo 1ARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4326-6695; www.tomo1.com.ar; Carlos Pellegrini 521, Hotel Panamericano; 3-course lunch AR$900, dinner AR$1050, 9-course tasting menu AR$1700; hnoon-3pm & 5:30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 5:30pm-midnight Sat; bLínea C Lavalle)

  At renowned Tomo 1, European-influenced chef Federico Fialayre promotes a blend of Italian and Spanish cooking methods in dishes featuring seasonal produce, homemade pasta and fresh fish. Sample his famed cuisine with a three-course menu; it comes with wine, mineral water, coffee and petits fours.

  Aldo’s Restoran & VinotecaARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4334-2380; www.aldosvinoteca.com; Moreno 372; mains AR$245-370; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri, 7pm-1am Sat; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  This restaurant and wine shop is an upscale eatery serving a small but tasty menu of meat, seafood and pasta dishes, all amid walls lined with wine. What makes this place unique, however, is that the wine is sold at retail prices – thus making it easier to sample (and buy) the nearly 600 labels available.

  FuraiboJAPANESE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4334-3440; www.furaiboba.com.ar; Adolfo Alsina 429; mains AR$205-355; hnoon-11pm; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  Walk up the staircase of this old building into a calm space meant to resemble a Buddhist temple; on weekend evenings, live instrumentalists set the mood with ambient ceremonial music. The house specialty is homemade ramen noodles with pork. The menu also includes excellent sushi and katsu (a type of cutlet), plus un
usual sweet treats such as ginger ice cream.

  TAKING IT TO THE STREETS

  Along with soccer, tango and meat, Buenos Aires is famous for the propensity of its citizens to take to the streets in protest. Whether the city is booming or in the midst of a depression, unless there's martial law, someone is out on the street demonstrating against something. Plaza de Mayo has long been the focal point of direct action.

  The best-known voices of dissent are the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo (the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo). On April 30, 1977, 14 mothers whose children had disappeared under the military dictatorship gathered in the Plaza de Mayo and demanded to know what had happened to their missing children. The military government dismissed them, claiming that their children had simply moved abroad, but the women continued to march in their iconic white handkerchiefs every Thursday. They played an essential, historical role as the first group to openly oppose the military junta and opened the doors for later protests.

  Even in 1996, when the economy was booming and the country was a democracy, a number of protests broke out against corruption and the reform of pensions. Senior citizens hurled eggs at government buildings and were chased by trucks mounted with water cannon. The protests after the economic collapse in 2001 were particularly large and vociferous. Thousands of people – in the poorer areas as well as middle-class neighborhoods – spontaneously gathered in public parks in Buenos Aires. To the shouts of '¡Que se vayan todos¡' (Get rid of them all!), they banged pots and pans – an act known as a cacerolazo. Both the economic minister and the president eventually stepped down, and some of the politicians who hadn't fled the country were beaten in the streets.

  There are still occasional grievances on Plaza de Mayo, whether it's a protest against the price of beef and tomatoes, or against the closure of a hospital. You can always count on protests being loud, but these days they’re usually peaceful.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Many watering holes in the Center are Irish-pub knockoffs that cater to the business crowd on weekdays. Because of this, some might close a bit earlier than in other neighborhoods, but the most popular ones stay packed all night long. The Center also has some of the oldest cafes in town, delightfully atmospheric venues that offer a welcome break while you’re wandering around.

  La Puerto RicoCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4331-2215; www.lapuertoricocafe.com.ar; Adolfo Alsina 416; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun; bLínea E Bolívar)

  One of the city’s most historic cafes, La Puerto Rico has been going strong since 1887. Located a block south of Plaza de Mayo, the place serves coffee and great pastries, the latter baked on the premises. Pope Francis used to come here for his morning café con leche (coffee with milk) and medialunas (croissants) when he was Archbishop of Buenos Aires.

  Café TortoniCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.com.ar; Av de Mayo 829; bLínea A Piedras)

  BA’s oldest and most famous cafe, Tortoni has become so popular with foreigners that the bus loads of tourists detract from its charm. Still, it’s practically an obligatory stop for any visitor to town: order a couple of churros (fried pastry dough) with your hot chocolate and forget about the inflated prices. There are also nightly tango shows – reserve ahead.

  New BrightonBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-1515; Sarmiento 645; h8am-close Mon-Sat; bLínea C Diagonal Norte)

  This beautifully restored historical bar feels like the well-kept secret of refined local gentlemen who gather here after work. A doorman welcomes guests while bartenders stir and shake drinks behind a polished-wood bar; during mealtimes, a pianist entertains on the baby grand. Order a classic cocktail and enjoy the tray of elegant finger food that comes with it.

  BahreinCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6225-2731; www.bahreinba.com; Lavalle 345; hFri & Sat; bLínea B Alem)

  Attracting a good share of BA’s tattooed youth, Bahrein is a hugely popular downtown club housed in an old bank (check out the ‘vault’ in the basement). On the ground floor is the lounge-like Funky Room where resident DJs spin house music and electronica. Downstairs is the Xss discotheque, an impressive sound system and a dance floor for hundreds.

  La CigaleBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4893-2332; www.facebook.com/lacigalebar; 25 de Mayo 597; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-close; bLínea B Alem)

  This upstairs bar-restaurant is popular with office workers during the week, and fusion foods are served for both lunch and dinner. Come on the second Monday of the month for the Buenos Aires Pub Quiz (www.buenosairespubquiz.com). Happy hour is from 6pm to 10pm.

  CocolicheCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-9485; www.facebook.com/cocolicheclub/; Av Rivadavia 878; hTue-Sat; bLínea A Piedras)

  An effortlessly cool club, this electronic-music paradise is based in a slightly run-down old mansion. It’s the downstairs basement, gritty and nearly always packed, that holds the main stage, a fantastic sound system and a state-of-the-art light show. Breakbeat, drum and bass, reggaeton and electronic cumbia entertain; when you need a break, head to the 2nd-floor chill-out room.

  London CityCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-9057; Av de Mayo 599; h6am-2am; bLínea A Perú)

  This classy cafe has been serving java enthusiasts for over 50 years, and claims to have been the spot where Julio Cortázar wrote his first novel. Your hardest work here, however, will most likely be choosing which pastry to try with your cup of coffee.

  KEEPING YOUR PEñAS & MAYOS STRAIGHT

  Some first-time (or maybe second-time) visitors may get confused with certain similar-sounding street and attraction names. Keep them straight:

  25 de Mayo Street that goes north–south from Retiro to Plaza de Mayo (Mayo is Spanish for the month of May).

  Avenida de Mayo Large avenue that goes east–west from Plaza del Congreso to Plaza de Mayo.

  Plaza de Mayo BA's most important plaza.

  Diagonal Roque Sáenz Peña Diagonal street that stretches from Plaza de Mayo to the Obelisco.

  Luis Sáenz Peña Street that goes from Plaza del Congreso through Constitución.

  Rodríguez Peña Street that goes from Recoleta to Plaza del Congreso.

  3Entertainment

  oCentro Cultural BorgesTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5555-5359; www.ccborges.org.ar; cnr Viamonte & San Martín; shows US$20-25; bLínea C Lavalle)

  This excellent cultural center has many quality offerings, including recommended, reasonably priced tango shows several times per week. Bien de Tango, on Friday and Saturday nights at 8pm, is especially good and comparable to other tango shows that are triple the cost. Check the cultural center’s website or stop in beforehand to see what’s on and get an advance ticket.

  Patio de TangoTANGO

  (Milonga de la Manzana de las Luces; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-3260; www.facebook.com/PatioDeTangoManzana/; Perú 222; donation recommended; hclass 7:30-9pm, milonga 9pm-midnight Fri; bLínea E Bolívar)F

  This wonderfully atmospheric milonga takes place in the outdoor patio and surrounding salons of the historic Manzana de las Luces, one of the city's oldest buildings. There's no entrance fee but you may wish to contribute a little money 'to the hat', which goes to the teachers and musicians.

  Piazzolla TangoTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4344-8200; www.piazzollatango.com; Florida 165, Galaría Güemes; show from US$60, show & dinner from US$107; bLínea D Catedral)

  This beautiful art-nouveau theater, just off pedestrian Calle Florida, used to be a red-light cabaret venue. The show here is based on the music of Ástor Piazzolla, a bandoneón (small accordian) player and composer who revolutionized tango music by fusing in elements from jazz and classical music. Be aware most tables are communal. Free tango class before the show.

  Luna ParkSTADIUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5279-5279; www.lunapark.com.ar; cnr Bouchard & Av Corrientes; bLínea B Alem)

  Originally a boxing stadium, th
is huge venue has a capacity of 15,000 and is the fateful location where Juan Perón met Eva Duarte (aka Evita), and where Maradona got married.

  El QuerandíTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5199-1770; www.querandi.com.ar; Perú 322; show from US$45, dinner & show from US$110; bLínea E Belgrano)

  This large corner venue is also an upscale restaurant. The show follows tango's evolution from its bordello origins to cabaret influences to milongas and modernism. There’s more low-key dancing than at other shows – and also more singing and musical interludes – so don’t expect overly athletic moves. One minus: columns can block some views.

  Academia Nacional del TangoTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4345-6967; www.facebook.com/academianacionaldeltango/; Av de Mayo 833; bLínea A Piedras)

  Hosts occasional milongas and free concerts; check the Facebook page for details.

  7Shopping

  The main shopping street in the Center is Florida. Most travelers to Buenos Aires take the obligatory stroll down this heaving pedestrian street lined with shops and vendors selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, housewares and cheesy souvenirs. Touts zero in on tourists, offering currency exchange and leather jackets. We’ll tell you now: you won’t find the cheapest prices on leather jackets here (try Calle Murillo or Calle Aguirre in the Villa Crespo neighborhood instead) and you should definitely avoid changing money on the streets – fake bills and other scams are an occasional problem here.