Lonely Planet Buenos Aires

by Lonely Planet

  3Entertainment

  Rojo TangoTANGO

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4952-4111; www.rojotango.com; Faena Hotel + Universe, Martha Salotti 445; show US$220, show & dinner US$290; g111, 43, 143)

  This sexy performance is the tango show to top all others, though it comes with a hefty price tag. Offering only 100 seats, the Faena’s cabaret room is swathed in blood-red curtains and gilded furniture. The show itself loosely follows the history of the tango, starting from its cabaret roots to the modern fusions of Ástor Piazzolla.

  Congreso & Tribunales

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife

  Entertainment

  Shopping

  Congreso & Tribunales

  Neighborhood Top Five

  1Teatro Colón Peeking behind the scenes on a backstage tour or catching a performance at this historical venue.

  2Palacio Barolo Learning about the symbolic architecture of this unique Dante-inspired building and taking in the views from the rooftop lighthouse.

  3Palacio del Congreso Exploring the building that houses Argentina's legislative branch on a guided Senate tour.

  4Pizzería Güerrín Stopping for a late-night slice of thick doughy pizza and fainá, eaten standing at the counter.

  5Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes Admiring the stunning tiled exterior of the building that once housed the city's water tanks before viewing the range of toilets and bidets displayed in the bizarre little museum on the 1st floor.

  Explore: Congreso & Tribunales

  Plaza del Congreso is at the heart of this neighborhood and an easy walk from Plaza de Mayo (in the Center) along the important thoroughfare Av de Mayo. This avenue connects the city's executive and legislative houses and is itself lined with beautiful buildings, so be sure to take a stroll along it.

  To do this, however, you'll have to experience crossing Av 9 de Julio, which is 16 lanes at its widest; the parallel streets Cerrito and Carlos Pellegrini make it look even broader. Fortunately, traffic islands provide raised breaks for the thousands of pedestrians who cross it every day, but it’s still an intimidating barrier (and can’t be done in one green light without breaking into a run – trust us).

  Once you've explored the Plaza de Congreso area, head along Callao to Av Corrientes – it's the city's traditional theater district, and there's still plenty going on. Further north is Plaza Lavalle, home to its own important cluster of buildings, including one of the city's most important sights, the Teatro Colón. Just a couple blocks from here is the Obelisco, Buenos Aires' key landmark, with a small plaza near the base.

  Local Life

  AParklife Join office workers on their lunch break and buy a takeaway sandwich or empanada to eat in Plaza Lavalle.

  AHangouts Break for afternoon tea at local favorite El Gato Negro or grab a slice of pizza at Pizzería Güerrín.

  ACinema Catch an Argentinian film (and practice your Spanish listening skills) at the Espacio INCAA Gaumont.

  Getting There & Away

  ABus Take bus 29 from Palermo or San Telmo and bus 64 (among others) from the Microcentro.

  ASubte Línea A runs along Av de Mayo and Rivadavia, linking Congreso with the Microcentro. Línea B runs along Av Corrientes to the Microcentro and Línea D links Tribunales (at Plaza Lavalle) with Palermo and the Microcentro.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  The big theaters, including Teatro San Martín and Teatro Colón, occasionally put on inexpensive or even free events, while cultural centers (such as Centro Cultural San Martín) are also good sources of free or affordable entertainment.

  Best Places to Eat

  A Chan Chan

  A Pizzería Güerrín

  A Parrilla Peña

  A Cadore

  Best Places to Drink

  A Los Galgos

  A El Gato Negro

  A Los 36 Billares

  Best Entertainment

  A Teatro Colón

  A El Beso

  A Café de los Angelitos

  TOP SIGHT

  Teatro Colón

  Sinking into a red velvet seat for a performance at Teatro Colón is a magical experience. This is one of the world's greatest opera houses, and you can discover it for yourself by attending a performance here or taking a behind-the-scenes tour.

  A Grand Opening

  The impressive seven-story building is one of Buenos Aires’ landmarks (and greatest sources of pride). The theater's opening night in 1908 was a presentation of Verdi’s Aïda, and visitors have continued to be wowed ever since. After all, the acoustics are considered among the top five of the world's concert venues.

  Architecture

  Occupying an entire city block, the Teatro Colón can seat 2500 spectators and provide standing room for another 500 – it was the southern hemisphere’s largest theater until the Sydney Opera House was built in 1973. Italian Francesco Tamburini was the main architect, but after his death in 1891 his partner Vittorio Meano – who designed the Palacio del Congreso – was put in charge. After Meano was murdered (possibly due to a love triangle!), Belgian Jules Dormal took over and added some French elements to the theater.

  Don't Miss

  ABackstage tour

  AGrand marble foyer

  ASalón Dorado

  AMozart (in the busts room)

  AMagnificent painted cúpula

  Practicalities

  A MAP GOOGLE MAP

  A%011-4378-7100

  Awww.teatrocolon.org.ar

  ATucumán 1171, Cerrito 628

  Atours AR$250

  Ahtours 9am-5pm

  AbLínea D Tribunales

  T PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  2Neighborhood Walk

  Congreso to Plaza de Mayo

  Start Palacio del Congreso

  End Plaza de Mayo

  Length 2.5km; two hours

  Begin your walk at the green-topped 1Palacio del Congreso. Wander east through Plaza del Congreso and look for the sculpture of Rodin's The Thinker (one of three sculptures cast from the original mold).

  Head east along Av de Mayo, stopping at the incredible, Dante-inspired 2Palacio Barolo; if you time things right, hop on a tour. You’ll get a grand vista of Buenos Aires from the cupola on the 22nd floor.

  If you're feeling lucky, see if you can cross super-wide Av 9 de Julio in one go. (Hint: You’ll have to run!) Continue along Av de Mayo, noting the French-style architecture of this grand avenue as you go, then turn right on Perú. Soon you'll come to what was once BA’s center of learning, the 3Manzana de las Luces (‘Block of Enlightenment’). Built in 1730 it is one of the city’s oldest building clusters.

  Head up Moreno and turn left on Calle Defensa, pausing to peek inside the 4Farmacia de la Estrella, which has been a functioning pharmacy since 1835. Note the elaborate late-19th-century ceiling murals depicting health-oriented themes. Take a break at 5La Puerto Rico, one of BA's most historic cafes.

  Steeped in history, 6Plaza de Mayo is the city's most important plaza and the main location where throngs of citizens gather on occasion to air their many grievances.

  The plaza’s main attraction, the 7Casa Rosada, houses the president's office. You can take tours inside at weekends (book ahead); a modern museum lies off to the south side and holds ruins of the old customs building in its basement.

  Also on the plaza is the 8Catedral Metropolitana, where Cardinal Bergoglio gave masses before he became Pope Francis in 2013. Pop inside for a look around. The tomb of General José de San Martín (you’ve noticed his name here and there?) is located here, and a flame burns outside to keep his spirit alive.

  Across from the cathedral is the 9Cabildo; it’s BA’s old town council. There are great views of the plaza from the 2nd-floor balcony.

  1Sights

  Teatro Colón Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  oPalacio BaroloNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4381-1885; www.palaciobarolotours.com; Av de Mayo 1370;
tour AR$200; htours 10am-7pm Wed-Sun; bLínea A Sáenz Peña)

  One of Buenos Aires' most beautiful buildings is this 22-story office block, whose unique design was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy; its height (100m) is a reference to each canto (or song), the number of floors (22) to verses per song, and its divided structure to hell, purgatory and heaven. To see Palacio Barolo you'll need to book a guided tour, during which you'll get to ride in the 1920s elevator and admire the panoramic views from the rooftop lighthouse.

  Completed in 1923, Palacio Barolo was BA’s tallest skyscraper until the construction of Edificio Kavanagh in 1936. In Montevideo, Uruguay is Palacio Barolo's 'twin,' the Palacio Salvo, a similar building that was also designed by the architect Mario Palanti.

  oMuseo Botica del ÁngelMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4384-9396; http://boticadelangel.usal.edu.ar/; Luis Sáenz Peña 543; guided tour AR$120, admission to ground fl only free; h3-6pm Tue-Fri, guided tours 7pm dates vary; bLínea E Independencia)

  For an overview of the world of Argentinian showbiz, join a tour of the wonderfully kitsch Botica del Ángel and view the former home of the late Eduardo Bergara Leumann, the flamboyant TV presenter and actor who was Argentina's answer to Liberace. Tours are in Spanish; see website for dates.

  Palacio del CongresoNOTABLE BUILDING

  (Congress Building; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2822-3000; www.senado.gov.ar/ComoLlegar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1849; hsenate tours 12:30pm & 5pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri; bLínea A Congreso)F

  The green-domed Palacio del Congreso was modeled on the Capitol Building in Washington, DC and was completed in 1906. Worthwhile free tours of the Senate chamber, the Chamber of Deputies and the gorgeous, walnut-paneled Congress library are given in English and Spanish. The tour also includes the pink room where until 1951 women met to discuss policies; their notes were then passed to a male deputy. Go to the entrance on Hipólito Yrigoyen and bring photo ID.

  Separate tours in Spanish only are run by the Chambers of Deputies, accessed via the entrance on Av Rivadavia.

  Note the stone statues on either side of the steps at the front of the palace, facing the square; these were sculpted by the controversial artist Lola Mora and caused a scandal when they were erected in 1907. Conservatives insisted that they be removed; in 2014 President Cristina Kirchner returned replicas of the sculptures to their original location.

  Across the way, the Monumento a los Dos Congresos ( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza del Congreso, cnr Avs Rivadavia & Entre Rios; bLínea A Congreso) honors the assembly of 1813 and the 1816 Congress in Tucumán, when independence was declared.

  HENRIK DOLLE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Palacio de las Aguas CorrientesNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6319-1104; www.aysa.com.ar; Riobamba 750; hmuseum 9am-1pm Mon-Fri; bLínea D Callao)F

  Completed in 1894 when Buenos Aires was booming, this gorgeous, palace-like waterworks building has an elaborate exterior intended to convey the importance of the purified water it housed in huge tanks. On the 1st floor is the small and quirky Museo del Agua y de la Historia Sanitaria, where the collection of ornate tiles, faucets, ceramic pipe joints, and old toilets and bidets is well displayed. Guided visits offer a backstage glimpse of the building’s inner workings.

  ObeliscoMONUMENT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Avs 9 de Julio & Corrientes; bLínea B Carlos Pellegrini)

  One of the city's most iconic monuments is the needle-like Obelisco, which soars 67m above the oval Plaza de la República and was erected in 1936 on the 400th anniversary of the first Spanish settlement on the Río de la Plata. To celebrate major soccer victories, boisterous fans gather at the Obelisco to sing, jump in unison and honk horns.

  Plaza LavallePLAZA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Libertad, btwn Córdoba & Lavalle; bLínea D Tribunales)

  Just northwest of the Obelisco is Plaza Lavalle, three blocks of parks (popular with office workers on their lunch break) surrounded by some important buildings. The most worthwhile sights here are the Teatro Colón and the Teatro Nacional Cervantes, but there's also the neoclassical Escuela Presidente Roca ( GOOGLE MAP ; Libertad 581; bLínea D Tribunales), an educational facility that's often mistaken for Teatro Colón, and across from it, the French-style Palacio de Justicia (1904) housing the Supreme Court.

  Teatro Nacional CervantesNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4815-8883; www.teatrocervantes.gov.ar; Libertad 815; tours AR$35; mLínea D Tribunales)

  From the grand tiled lobby to the red-and-gold-hued main theater, you can smell the long history of the ornately decorated Cervantes. Though it's definitely showing its age, there is an undeniable faded elegance to the place. Take it in on a weekend tour (call for current schedules), or catch a play, musical show or dance performance.

  Museo Judío de Buenos AiresMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4123-0832; www.museojudio.org.ar; Libertad 769; AR$140; h11am-5:30pm Tue-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri; bLínea D Tribunales)

  Jewish symbols adorn the facade of the Templo Libertad ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4123-0832; www.templolibertad.org.ar; Libertad 769; bLínea D Tribunales), Argentina’s oldest and largest synagogue, located at the northeastern end of Plaza Lavalle. Attached to the synagogue is a small museum that traces the history of Jewish immigration to Argentina and displays items relating to Jewish culture and religious practices. Don't miss taking a look inside the synagogue itself (accessed via the museum). Bring photo ID for admission.

  Palacio de JusticiaNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; https://turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/es/atractivo/palacio-de-justicia-tribunales; Talcahuano 550; htours in Spanish 2:30pm Fri; bLínea D Tribunales)F

  Occupying an entire city block overlooking leafy Plaza Lavalle, this beautiful beaux-arts structure is home to the Supreme Court, and was built in stages between 1904 and 1949. Ninety-minute guided tours of the courts are given in Spanish on Fridays at 2:30pm. Reserve in advance via https://ba.tours/ and bring photographic ID.

  Centro Cultural San MartínCULTURAL CENTRE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4374-1251; www.elculturalsanmartin.org; Sarmiento 1551; bLínea B Uruguay)F

  One of Buenos Aires’ best cultural resources, this large arts center has free or inexpensive galleries, music, films, lectures, art exhibitions, classes and workshops. See the website for the current program of events and tickets.

  PRACTICAL TIP

  SCORING TICKETS FOR THE TEATRO COLóN

  AThe theater offers occasional free concerts – check the website and click on 'Intérpretes Argentinos.'

  ABuy tickets online in advance as soon as you know your travel dates.

  AThe cheapest tickets are standing spaces at the highest tier – look for 'Paraiso de Pie.'

  AIf a performance appears sold out online, try asking at the ticket office – sometimes there are seats available that don't show up on the website.

  AIf all else fails, hotel concierges have been known to get hold of last-minute tickets for 'sold-out' concerts.

  5Eating

  The Congreso area caters mostly for a business clientele with cheap parrillas (steakhouses) and quick takeout joints. Dotted between the theaters and cinemas of Av Corrientes and Av Rivadavia are a number of pizzerias serving empanadas and traditional stodgy Argentinian-style pizza by the slice. In the blocks around Av de Mayo and Salta you’ll find a few good Spanish and Basque eateries serving traditional food.

  oPizzería GüerrínPIZZA$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4371-8141; www.facebook.com/pizzeriaguerrin/; Av Corrientes 1368; pizza slices AR$19-27; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; bLínea B Uruguay)

  This much-loved pizza joint on Av Corrientes has been feeding the masses since 1932. For a quick pit stop (and the cheapest prices), order a slice of thick, doughy muzzarella at the counter and eat standing up at the benches with the rest of the crowd. Add a portion of fainá (chickpea-based flatbread) and wash it down with Moscato and soda.

  There are also tables with waiter service where
you can choose a freshly baked pizza from a more extensive menu. Empanadas and plenty of desserts are also available.

  oChan ChanPERUVIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4382-8492; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390; mains AR$70-135; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-12:30am Tue-Sat, to 11:30pm Sun; bLínea A Sáenz Peña)

  Thanks to fair prices and quick service, this colorful Peruvian eatery is usually packed with office workers devouring plates of ceviche (seafood cured in citrus) and ajiaco de conejo (rabbit and potato stew). There are also arroz chaufa (Peruvian-style fried rice) dishes, easily washed down with a tangy pisco sour or a pitcher of chicha morada (a sweet fruity drink).

  oCadoreICE CREAM$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4374-3688; http://heladeriacadore.com.ar/; Av Corrientes 1695; 250g ice cream AR$80; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri-Sun; bLínea B Callao)