Ardnish

by Angus MacDonald

  Angus MacDonald has lived all his life in the Highlands and is steeped in its history. He built up several successful businesses before changing his career to write the Ardnish trilogy, open a large bookshop and build the Highland Cinema in Fort William.

  Praise for Ardnish Was Home, Part 2 of the Ardnish series

  ‘A genuine portrait of a time gone forever . . . a very good read’

  Rosamunde Pilcher

  ‘What I really enjoyed about this book was its beauty, an enthralling read that is both brutal and poetic’

  Daily Record

  ‘A fast-paced narrative with deeply likeable characters . . . far more than yet another wartime love story . . . impossible to put down’

  Scottish Field, Book of the month

  ‘Extraordinary. I closed the book with the strong feeling of the importance of kinship, the need to nurture one another, and the power of love. It will enter your soul’

  Scots Magazine

  ‘An evocative book opening a window on a way of life as it was, a century ago, in Ardnish, in the West Highlands . . . a compelling account of peace and war’

  Women Together

  Praise for We Fought for Ardnish, Part 3 of the Ardnish series

  ‘An intense and bittersweet love story . . . the descriptions of travel from Italy to Canada and the Italian front combine to make this a compelling and engaging story’

  Scottish Field

  ‘A captivating novel . . . which incorporates so much of the beautiful Highland scene and its people alongside the horrors and destruction of a war-torn world. An inspiring read’

  The Braes

  ‘Not only a gripping and at times horrifying adventure . . . it is also an important piece of social history. But perhaps above all, it is a tale of the importance of true love and determination’

  Scots Magazine

  ‘An excellent reflection of love of one’s home and heritage. A page turner’

  Oban Times

  ‘A haunting salute to a past way of life and a testament to the timeless values of loyalty, faith and family’

  National Post

  Ardnish

  ANGUS MACDONALD

  First published in 2020 by

  Birlinn Limited

  West Newington House

  10 Newington Road

  Edinburgh

  EH9 1QS

  www.birlinn.co.uk

  Copyright © Angus MacDonald 2020

  The moral right of Angus MacDonald to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

  ISBN: 978 1 78885 294 4

  British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

  Typeset by Hewer Text UK Ltd, Edinburgh

  Printed and bound by Clays Ltd, Elcograf S.p.A.

  To my wonderful cousins, the Miramichi MacDonalds, whose forebears emigrated to Cape Breton in 1824 from the West Highlands of Scotland. They have introduced me to New Scotland and shown me that the ties that bind families to their homeland, and to each other, are strong.

  Acknowledgements

  My father, Rory MacDonald, has been the inspiration for the Ardnish trilogy, but I also owe thanks to my ancestors, Col. Willie MacDonald and his son Andrew, who fought in the Boer War, and in the First and Second World Wars, and sent a treasure trove of letters home. Their regiment, the Lovat Scots, was formed by Lord Lovat as a ‘sharpshooter’ and reconnaissance unit in 1900, and was made up of deerstalkers, gamekeepers and ghillies from across the Highlands and Islands.

  Thanks once more to Erica Munro, as well as to Alison Rae and Andrew Simmons at Birlinn for their sterling editorial work.

  My research in South Africa was greatly helped by Anthony Hocking, Arnold van Dyk, Pam McFadden from the Talana Museum, Dennis McDonald, Simon and Cheryl Blackburn, Piet Swart, Johan Loock, Thabo Kruger and Redge Henning. Thank you.

  A.M.

  Chapter 1

  Donald John Gillies, Ardnish, January 1944

  I can hear the waves on the shore and the rhythmic drip-drip-drip of water into the bucket under the leak by the fire. The lamp’s turned down to save oil and the peat is barely glowing in the hearth. I contemplate life in the silence of the house though my thoughts are often interrupted by terrible bouts of coughing and I’m trembling with a chill. It’s pneumonia I’m suffering from. I’ve known plenty who have had it. A neighbour used to describe it as ‘the old man’s friend’, whisking us away quickly when the time comes.

  I have been conscious of my strength ebbing away over the last day or so, but I have kept the thought to myself. My wife Morag is not here, but our great friend Mairi and daughter-in-law Louise are, and they have enough to be worrying about, tending to all the chores around the croft, without the extra worry of this old man. I am fortunate in these two.

  Morag headed off to the funeral of her sister in Glasgow several days ago. They weren’t close – she’d be the first to admit that – but after some dithering, off she went, taking the train from Lochailort. I was quite well the day she left, and, in any case, Mairi and Louise promised to look after me. Louise went to Arisaig yesterday to send a telegram; my wife should be back any day now.

  My hand reaches from beneath the damp blanket to touch the heavy leather bagpipe case which lies empty under the bed. Donald Angus took a lighter army-issue canvas one when he left for the Rockies. The bagpipes were played at the rising of the clans in Glenfinnan when Prince Charles came in 1745 and they have piped men into battle at every war since. They have played at dinners for many of the famous men in the land and at weddings for the most beautiful of brides. My grandson played them at the most famous of all pibroch competitions only recently. My heart swells with pride at the thought. Unless the MacCrimmon family from Dunvegan have an original set, then ours is the most renowned in the Highlands.

  My own father, a Cameron Highlander, played them at the Battle of Balaclava in the Crimea as a boy soldier, and my grandfather played them at Waterloo. With the pipers always at the front leading the men into battle, how my ancestors lived to return is a miracle. As I think of piping, my fingers move to a forgotten tune. My grandfather proudly told me when I was a lad that at the Battle of Quatre Bras our men were struggling – half had been killed or injured – but the next morning at Waterloo, piper Kenneth MacKay stepped outside the square and played the ancient pibroch rallying tune ‘Cogadh no Sith’. Our men’s backs straightened, their resolve stiffened, and their famous Highland fighting spirit was rejuvenated. By nightfall the great army of Napoleon had been destroyed.

  My toe itches, too, as it often does, only there isn’t a foot there. I left that in South Africa. I close my eyes and my mind drifts all the way back to my soldiering days . . .

  I must have fallen asleep, for when I open my eyes the fire has burned low in the grate and a man is sitting by my bed, looking down at me with kindly eyes.

  ‘Sorry to wake you, Father,’ my son says, clasping my hands in his. He isn’t wearing his priestly garb, but the crucifix I gave him after his ordination is pinned on his jumper.

  I smile, delighted to see him. ‘I wasn’t asleep, Angus, lad, just dreaming. A happy dream.’ But then a thought occurs to me. ‘What are you doing here? I thought you were in Edinburgh. Are you on holiday?’

  He looks down for a moment as though wondering how to reply.

  ‘I wrote to him.’ Louise has entered from outside, carrying peat for the fire.

  Angus rises to help her stack the turfs by the hearth and returns to my bedside. ‘I came on
the nine o’clock train last night and walked down here in the dark. I didn’t want to wake you so I slept in Aunt Mairi’s house. How are you?’

  ‘Fine,’ I say, ‘just fine.’ Both he and I know that I’m not, of course.

  He pulls my blanket up around my shoulders before turning to assist Louise with preparing vegetables for soup. In soft voices they discuss how I’m faring. I hear the odd word from Louise: ‘being difficult’, ‘doctor’ and ‘medicine’. I chuckle to myself and note with approval how my son is his usual courteous self, asking his sister-in-law about how things are here on the croft and listening intently to her responses.

  She’s a good woman, Louise, I think for the umpteenth time. Always a kind word on her lips, always helpful and happy to go on errands. She’ll stop and have a blether with everyone she meets. Her Gaelic is fluent now, no doubt about it, but I detect a slight Welsh lilt in her voice still.

  I vividly remember the day she stepped off the boat at Peanmeanach for the first time. I was standing outside the house, scanning the boatmen’s faces, desperately seeking our son, Donald Peter, home from the war with his new wife. But he was not there.

  Despite her grief at his death, Louise stayed on and made her home here in Peanmeanach, giving birth to Donald Angus and raising him to be the fine young man he is today. He serves with the Lovat Scouts; first he was in France and Italy, and now he’s in Canada. It breaks all of our hearts that my son did not live to see his only child.

  I can hear Louise and Father Angus talking about the state of the path, how it has again been washed away at one point. Angus is describing how he had to struggle through the darkness to get here.

  There is a rush of icy air as the door swings open and Mairi enters. She’s carrying a tin of oatcakes fresh from the stove in her croft next door. ‘The wind is swinging to the north east,’ she says. ‘Snow is coming. How are you feeling, Donald John?’

  ‘All the better for having Angus here,’ I reply, summoning my strength to sound as cheerful as I can though my smile is soon followed by a painful coughing fit. Mairi pours me a cup of water from the jug on the table and I sip it gratefully.

  Mairi recounts how Angus arrived in the small hours, mud up to his knees where he’d fallen off the track and blood on his face where a branch had swiped him. Angus protests that he had a lamp when he set off, but it went out. He knows the route well enough, but he encountered unexpected rocks here and there, and branches had grown treacherously over some parts of it.

  ‘Some of it has been completely washed away,’ Angus says. ‘The usual part.’ I know the exact point he means: not far west of the railway bridge, where the track crosses the steep hillside. We have often had to rebuild it over the years as the ferocious winter weather always succeeds in eroding our best efforts.

  I remember, as a boy, the men of the village meeting to discuss whether a different route could be found, one that could take a cart. These men would meet for a few minutes each morning to discuss their concerns and the jobs that needed to be done. It was Jock Ferguson from St Kilda who got it going. We started calling it a ‘parliament’, like they did on Hirta.

  I recall Donald Angus and Louise’s younger brother Owen heading off to fix that bit ‘once and for all’ when they were lads. They were going to cut some silver birch and embed posts with rails between, then fill it in with stone. I gave them detailed instructions and they did a good job, but that was ten years ago and our wet winters have the ability to destroy everything put there by man. The County Council used to send men to repair the path, but that stopped.

  I sigh and shake my head. Life has grown harder and harder here on Ardnish, and I lament for the thousandth time that the loss of my leg has prevented me from being of greater use over the past four decades.

  Having no safe pathway to get back and forth will be the last straw for the women. They’ll be the only people left behind here in Peanmeanach after I’m gone. They’ve been dying to move to Arisaig and get a good house and live an easier life, and I know fine that when I’m buried, they’ll be out of the house as fast as hares. If Donald Angus doesn’t make it home that will be it, the last people on the Ardnish peninsula. Down from a population of two hundred and forty in five clachans in the 1841 Census to none a century later. The MacDonalds, the MacQueens, the Gillies, the Fergusons, the MacDougalls and many others have long gone, mostly to Glasgow, Nova Scotia and Australia. Hands that milked cows, gathered whelks and made hay are now making armaments in the crowded cities, digging coal or in service. Is their life any better now? I wonder.

  Chapter 2

  Angus eases me gently upright in my bed and sits beside me as I sip some tea and take a mouthful of porridge. ‘When it’s so wet and horrid like this, do you ever think back to your time in South Africa?’ he asks. ‘It would be summer there now, wouldn’t it? And light, too, in the evening. All that sunshine – you’d be as black as a native.’

  I smile and roll my eyes. I’ve never been brown, as well he knows. I have a permanent milk-white complexion, even in the summer. My arms and face got freckles, which I found embarrassing as a child. I used to have red hair, but what there is of it now is as white as snow.

  Angus’s surprise visit has raised my spirits and given me a surge of strength. I feel ready to talk. ‘My God, Angus,’ I begin, ‘you couldn’t begin to imagine the heat. The sun flayed us alive. On the ship down to Cape Town, on the first day out of St Helena, the younger men sat on the deck without their shirts on. They were in agony that night, burnt scarlet and with enormous blisters. Hardly anyone slept; they just lay moaning and groaning all over the ship. We older soldiers had tried to tell them, but they just wouldn’t listen. They only made that mistake once, I can tell you.

  ‘I heard that the Gordon Highlanders were pinned down at Magersfontein all day under fire from the Boer. They were hiding behind any rock they could find, and the backs of their knees between their kilt and gaiters got incredibly badly sunburnt.’

  Angus winces. ‘A painful spot.’

  ‘There was a plant called aloe, and if you smeared on the juice it made a big difference. We went down with our black Tam o’ Shanters, but thankfully within days we were issued with slouch hats – the same as the Boer had – to keep the sun out of our eyes and protect the backs of our necks. And, of course, the Scouts didn’t wear kilts, apart from us pipers sometimes, so that helped, too.’

  ‘Did you ever think of staying out there?’ Angus asks. ‘You could have sent for Mother and us children to join you.’

  My heart jolts, and I pause for a few moments before answering with care. After all, Angus will have no idea what my first thought is and I am anxious to be truthful in everything I say. ‘Well, yes, son, I did. As did many of us. In fact, thirty-nine Lovat Scouts signed on as members of the Transvaal police and remained out there. Baden-Powell was recruiting, and I imagine many of them didn’t have much to come back to. Dugald MacDonald from Bohuntin stayed out. He was a good friend of mine, and something of a hero out there. You wouldn’t have come across him, I don’t suppose? He came here for a visit once, many years ago.’

  Angus shakes his head.

  The memories relax me as I warm to my subject. ‘Imagine,’ I continue, ‘if you were from Brae Roy, you were twenty-four and the third son, with no croft or livelihood to speak of, and no girl to come back for. The land out there is beautiful – rich dark-red soil, knee-deep grass in summer – and the cattle and sheep are twice the size of ours. You could get a well-paid job in the police, that came with a house. I was tempted. But my heart is here, in Ardnish, and I had the family to return to . . . and of course after the massacre I wasn’t about to get a job with a missing leg, was I? No, it was retirement for me, aged just forty-five, and an invalid’s pension.’

  We fall silent. I do have another tale to tell, but I vow my son will not hear it. Not a word of it has passed my lips since the day it came to an end. Though once, many years ago, when I was at the auction mart at the Garrison, I was ap
proached by John MacDonald the Boss, from the Volunteer Arms, who asked what the real story was about me in South Africa. I angrily told him to mind his own business and hold his tongue, before turning my back on him. Even my close friend Colonel Willie never mentioned it after the war though he knew the truth better than anyone. We never discussed it despite spending many hours fishing together on the lochan here above the village.

  Angus must have seen me drift off into my own thoughts. He makes to move away. ‘I’ll let you rest now,’ he says.

  ‘Don’t go,’ I say. ‘I’m enjoying talking to you.’

  He smiles and sits back down on the edge of the box bed. ‘If you’re sure you’ve got the strength.’

  ‘With the summer came the storms. It was so hot you would burn your hand picking up an ammunition box at midday. Then, sure as eggs are eggs, in mid-afternoon the sky would blacken dark as night, you would hear the thunder in the distance, and the wind would blow dust in all directions. The horses’ ears would go back and they’d tug on their ropes, and within half an hour all hell would break loose. There would be a crack of lightning so vivid it would hurt your eyes, and sometimes the thunder was so loud no artillery or passing train could compare. The noise of it! And then came the rain. Like a hundred buckets of water being poured over you all at once.’

  I glance at Angus to see if he’s imagining the maelstrom. ‘It’s so difficult to describe,’ I say. ‘No matter how dramatic I try to make it sound I feel as though I cannot do it justice. You have to experience an African storm to understand its power. Even the worst storms here come nowhere close.’

  Angus widens his eyes. ‘As if you didn’t have enough to contend with out there!’

  ‘The thing is, within the hour it would all be back to normal. The puddles evaporated in minutes in the evening sun and it would become ten degrees cooler.