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Acknowledgements
Towards the end of the four years it took to write this book, I received some prize-money from Michael Holroyd and the Arts Council, via an award administered by the Royal Society of Literature and the Jerwood Charitable Foundation, and this munificent gift funded the entire final year of my travel, research and writing. At the beginning, a grant from the Arts and Humanities Research Board fostered many of the ideas. In between, thank you to my agent, David Godwin, and my editor, Roland Philipps, for their support.
It has been a privilege to write this book, to travel the course of the Indus, and to meet the many people who told me their river’s stories and debated its history. My debts are numberless in Pakistan, India, Afghanistan and Tibet, and along with those already mentioned in these twelve chapters, I would like to thank the following people. In Karachi: Kaleem Lashari, Asma Ibrahim, Dr Shershah, Sadiqa Salahuddin, Mirza Alim Baig, Nadra Ahmed, Arif Hasan, Amina Jilani, Parveen Rehman, Abdul Wahid Khan, Ajmal Kamal, Amar Mahboob, Maheen Zia, Taimur Khan, Mahera Omar, Faisal Butt, Kamila Shamsie, Vice-Admiral Syed Iqtidar Husain and Begum Romila Iqtidar, Maqbool Rahimtoola, Kashif Paracha, Taimur Kiddie, and above all, Major Inayat Sher Khan and Shahzadi Inayat. In Ibrahim Hyderi and Thatta: Muhammad Ali Shah and the Pakistan Fisherfolk Forum, especially Gulab Shah, with whom I made many journeys through the Delta. In Badin: the Young Sheedi Welfare Organization, and the matriarch and matriarchs-in-waiting of Bilali house. In Hyderabad: Zafar and Rozina Junejo, Aslam Khwaja, Mallah Muhammad Arab of the Sindh Taraqi Pasand Mallah Tanzeem, Mubarak Ali and the members of Al-Habsh, and in particular Professor G. A. Allana. In Bhitshah, the family of Aijaz Shah; in Umerkot, Mussafir Husain Shah; in Johi, Abdul Fattar Dahri; in Sehwan Sharif, Saleem Lashari, Farzana Buriro, and others at the Indus Resource Centre; in Shahdadkot, Parveen Magsi and family; in Sukkur, Mian Iqbal Ahmad Qureshi, the faqirs of Khwaja Khizr’s shrine, and especially Hasan Ali Khan for the royal hospitality he offered me in Sukkur. In the Punjab: Dr Z. H. Zaidi, Professor Dani, Jamshaid and Sara Niaz, General Husain, Dr Ahsan Wagah, Eric de la Varenne, Manzoor Khaliq, and the lovely Zainab Dar. In NWFP: principally Javed Iqbal and his family, for their Pashtun largesse; also Dhanish, Professor Ismail, Raj Wali Shah Khattak, Wazir Ajmal, Nizamullah, Bushra Gohar, BEFARe, and the family of Mian Salim-ur-Rehman. In Kabul: Hafizullah Ghastalai. In Baluchistan: the wonderful Qazis of Quetta; in Swat: Iqbal Rehman and his family, the staff of Khpal Kor, and Ahsan, Aadil and Arif; in Gilgit: Sajjad Ali Firdous; in Chilas: Sabir Hussain; in Skardu: M. Ismail Khan. In Srinagar: Professor Bandey; in Leh: Dr B.L. Malla and his team from the Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts. In Kashgar: Abdulwahab of the Uighur Tour and Travel Centre (abdultour@yahoo.com), whom I would recommend as a first port of call to anybody visiting Xinjiang or western Tibet. As I left Darchen, Tsegar was extending his home into a guesthouse, the Om Coffeehouse, and I imagine there can be no nicer place for visitors to stay.