Renovation 4th Edition

by Michael Litchfield

  Before installing a prehung exterior in-swing door,

  should have hinges matched to the weight and width of the door

  remove the door and test-fit the frame in the opening.

  The 2x4 cleats nailed to the sheathing act as depth

  (width is a lesser consideration, but wider doors do exert more torque

  gauges, so jamb edges will be flush to sheathing.

  on hinges as they swing). Modestly priced exterior doors usually come

  with standard 4-in. by 4-in. butt hinges. However, if your entry door is

  oversize or wood (which tends to be heavier than fiberglass or steel

  doors), consider paying a bit more for 41⁄2-in. or 5-in. bal -bearing hinges.

  you can also get adjustable hinges, which are mortised into the edge of

  the door and can accommodate vertical and horizontal adjustments—

  rather like the “german hinges” (see p. 369) used in good-quality cabi-

  nets. Adjustable hinges seem like a good idea for houses subject to

  seasonal shifting, such as those built on adobe soil.

  Lock assemblies. Most exterior doors sport a single-point lock

  that lodges into a plate on the latch side of the door frame. For a mod-

  est bump in price, you can add a dead bolt and a reinforced strike plate

  (see p. 123), which can’t be dislodged by a kick—the preferred method

  of entry by breaking-and-entering men. Beyond that, you enter the

  world of multipoint locking systems that secure two more sides of the

  entry door to the door frame; some designs seem inspired by the mech-

  anisms used to lock bank vaults. With multipoint locking systems

  priced at $2,000 and up—way up—it might be helpful to own a bank if

  you’re considering them.

  Shim and secure the hinge jamb first, checking for plumb

  often. Here, installers place shims slightly above and

  below the hinges so the hinge screws sticking through the

  jamb won’t snag on the shims.

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  115

  Method 1: The door stays hung

  between the frame and the trimmer near the top

  of the frame, and pry the frame out on one side

  1. Pry off the shipping blocks, remove the plas- until the hinge jamb is plumb. Then tack the

  tic plugs from the lock bore, and place the unit

  hinge jamb as described. If the hinge jamb is

  into the RO. (At this point, assume the doorsill is

  bowed, that could give you an off-plumb reading,

  level.) Approximately center the unit left to right

  too. Adjust shims and use nails to adjust the

  in the opening, then margin the hinge jamb while bowed section.

  a helper keeps the unit from tipping. Near the top

  P R O T I P

  of the hinge jamb, drive in a 10d finish nail

  4. Once you’ve plumbed and secured the hinge

  through the face of the jamb to tack it to the

  jamb, read the reveal—make sure there is an even

  Hand-nail the finish nails used

  trimmer. (You may have to open the door to do

  clearance between the door and the jambs—to

  to tack a frame to the RO and

  this.) Then hold a 6-ft. level to the edge of the

  position the head and the latch jambs. Use nails

  leave nail heads sticking up. If

  jamb and then to the face of the jamb to see if the to draw the frame toward the trimmer or adjust

  you use a nail gun for this opera-

  hinge jamb is plumb.

  the shims so the reveal is uniform—typically

  tion, you’ll likely drive the nails

  about 1⁄8 in. As you work the jambs, also use the

  all the way in—making subse-

  2. If the sill is level and the frame has

  quent adjustments difficult.

  edge of your Speed Square to make sure frame

  remained square, you should get a plumb read-

  edges are margined in the wall.

  ing. Also, sight along the frame to make sure the

  One final aside: Precased door units can be

  jamb stock is straight. If the hinge jamb is

  shimmed only from the inside. In that case, insert

  plumb, insert pairs of shims between the hinge

  a shim, fat end first, until it butts against the

  jamb and the trimmer stud—one pair of shims

  back of the casing, then slide additional shims,

  behind each of the three hinges and two more

  thin edge first, until shims are tight. Nail or

  pairs spaced equidistant between the hinge

  screw below each stack of shims, then close the

  shims. Because you and your helper will have a

  door and see if it seats evenly against the frame.

  door between you, you’ll need to communicate

  constantly as you insert shim pairs from both

  Method 2: remove the door

  sides and continually check for plumb.

  1. After prepping the opening, pull the hinge

  3. If, on the other hand, the hinge jamb is not

  pins and remove the door from the frame. (As is

  plumb, the frame may be racked slightly. Again,

  the case in the directions above, assume the

  assuming that the sill is level, insert a flat bar

  doorsill is level.)

  2. Center the frame left to right in the opening,

  and margin the frame. If you’re working solo and

  want to make sure the frame stays margined,

  tack temporary cleats to the outside of the frame

  and to the exterior sheathing, as shown in the top

  photo on p. 115. Tack it lightly though, because

  you’ll probably need to reposition the frame as

  you plumb its sides.

  3. Start with the hinge jamb. Having margined

  the frame, drive a 10d finish nail in the middle of

  the hinge jamb about 6 in. down from the top;

  leave the nail head sticking out. Using a 6-ft. level

  to check for plumb, shim the jamb behind each

  hinge: top, bottom, and then middle hinge. If you

  nail just below the shims, they’ll be easier to

  adjust. Use two 10d finish nails for each shim-

  ming point and, again, leave the nail heads stick-

  ing up. As you hold your level against the jamb

  hinge, note whether the jamb stock is straight. If

  it bows, you’ll need to nail or adjust shims to pull

  the jamb into line. In all, use five pairs of shims

  (and nails) to secure the jamb hinge.

  After plumbing and securing the hinge

  As you adjust latch and head jambs, make

  4. Using a framing square to ensure that it’s

  jamb, rehang the door so you can use it as a sure there’s an even gap (typically 1⁄8 in.)

  roughly square to the hinge jamb, tack the head

  gauge to align the head jamb and the latch between the door and the jambs all around.

  jamb to the header. The head jamb’s position is

  jamb correctly. This method is particularly

  approximate at this point because you’ll use the

  helpful if the door is slightly twisted or

  door to fit things more exactly. With the aid of a

  warped because you can align the latch

  jamb to the door.

  helper, set the exterior door back on its hinges.

  116 Chapter 6

  Shimming exterior Doors

  Shim exterior door frames at five points along each side jamb. Along the hinge jamb,

/>   shim behind each of the three hinges—or as close as possible if hinge-screw points

  stick out of the back side—and add two more sets of shims spaced equidistant

  between hinge shims. Space shims along the latch jamb at roughly the same intervals,

  but don’t shim directly behind strike plates or dead bolts. Shim the head jamb midway

  and at both corners.

  exterior door frames are often instal ed with pairs of 10d galvanized finish nails that

  go through or slightly below each pair of shims. Using two nails at each interval keeps

  the frame from twisting. Other builders favor pairs of 21⁄2-in. stainless-steel trim-head

  or plated flathead screws because they grip better and can be removed easily. In addi-

  tion, many builders remove the middle screw of the top hinge, shim behind it, and

  replace the original screws with 21⁄2-in. or 3-in. screws that sink deep into framing.

  Shim the head jamb after plumbing the latch jamb. If the

  Here are some fine points to consider:

  frame is uncased, you can insert shims from both sides

   It doesn’t matter whether you screw or nail below shims or through them, as

  and easily slide them in and out. The white line inside the

  jambs is kerf-in weatherstripping.

  long as the shims are snug. (Shimming below hinges allows them to be adjusted

  later—which you can’t do easily if you nail through them.)

   even if trimmer studs are plumb, shim between the door frame and the rough

  Close the door and note how it fits the frame.

  opening anyhow. that is, don’t nail jambs directly to the framing: A shimmed frame

  Without weatherstripping, there should be an

  even reveal, about

  will be easier to modify or replace later.

  1⁄8 in. wide, around the door.

   Always shim the head jamb or it may bow into the opening or jump when you

  5. If the door hits the edge of the latch jamb,

  nail casing or drywall to it.

  that jamb may be bowed or the shims behind the

   to cut shims flush to finish surfaces, score the shims with a utility knife. then

  hinge jamb may be too thick. Adjusting an

  snap off the waste. you can also use a japanese saw or an oscillating multitool.

  uncased exterior door frame is similar to “work-

  ing” an interior door frame. Shim the head jamb

  and then the latch jamb—fine-tuning the jambs

  so the 1⁄8-in. reveal between the door and the

  frame is constant. Operate the door to make sure

  it opens and shuts without binding. The latch

  jamb should have four or five pairs of shims, and

  2. Before attaching casing, air-seal the gaps

  the head jamb should have at least three. Then

  around the frame. There are two primary ways to

  fit insulation between the frame and the RO,

  do this. The first is to apply self-adhesive flashing

  install casing, and flash the unit, as described in

  tape so that it straddles the gap between the

  P R O T I P

  the following section.

  jambs and the housewrap. The second way is to

  SeAlINg, CASINg, AND

  run beads of siliconized acrylic caulk around the

  Prime and paint all six sides

  jamb edges and the RO, then press 6-in.-wide

  of exterior doors—especially the

  FlASHINg tHe FRAMe

  fiber-reinforced paper flashing strips into the

  top and bottom edges—before

  If any edges or faces of the frame are still unfin-

  putting on the hardware and

  caulk, as shown in the center photo on p. 118.

  ished, prime or paint them before installing exte-

  weatherstripping. Protect unfin-

  These strips aren’t self-adhesive, so staple edges

  rior casing.

  ished wood with at least one

  that overlap the sheathing. Whether you use tape

  coat of primer and two coats of

  1. If the cavity between the jambs and the

  or strips, align their edges back 1⁄4 in. from the

  good-quality oil-based paint.

  framing is accessible only from the outside, fill it

  inside edge of the frame so they won’t be visible.

  Also, carefully prime lock holes,

  with insulation before installing the exterior cas-

  (Strips are favored by builders who want a thin-

  leaf gains, and all edges. Finally,

  ing. I favor packing the cavity with loose fiber-

  ner material between frame jambs and casing, or

  caulk panels after priming and

  glass or recycled cotton insulation. Should you

  those who have not yet installed housewrap and

  before painting so there’s no

  need to adjust the frame at some future time, you want to slide flashing under the housewrap at the

  place for water to penetrate.

  will be able to do so easily. If you fill the cavity

  head and sides.)

  with spray foam—even low-expanding foam—

  3. If the unit’s doorsill has horns that extend

  you are, in effect, gluing everything together and

  beyond the side jambs, trim each horn to match

  creating a huge mess for the next person to work

  similar details elsewhere on the house. Typically,

  on the frame. Avoid high-expansion foam at all

  horns line up with the outer edge of side jambs,

  costs: It’s so powerful that it can easily bow jambs or protrude 1⁄4 in. beyond them. Because the sill

  into the opening and bind doors and windows.

  is pitched, you’ll need to cut the bottoms of the

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  117

  As you install casing, drive a finish nail through corner

  miter joints to keep them from separating. You can also

  glue the joint, but this joint will be kept in place by the

  stucco that surrounds it. Note the 1⁄4-in. reveal between

  the casing and the edge of the jamb.

  Secure the frame, trim the shims

  flush, remove the temporary cleats,

  and apply a bead of caulk to the jamb

  edges. Keep the caulk back at least

  1⁄4 in. from jamb faces.

  Apply flashing strips to the edge of each side jamb so that

  it beds in the caulking. However, before applying exterior

  casing, apply a second bead of caulking over the flashing

  paper. Double-caulking virtually eliminates air and water

  infiltration. Staple the other edge of the strip to the

  Install cap flashing atop the head casing, nailing its upper

  sheathing.

  flange as high as possible. This metal flashing will be

  overlapped by a self-adhesive flashing tape and stucco.

  Cap flashing should overhang the casing slightly along

  the front and at the ends of the casing so water drips free.

  zzzzzz Door-Casing Reveal

  casing at the same angle; use an adjustable bevel

  Finished wall

  gauge to transfer the angle to the casing.

  4. Attach the casing. Set the inside edges of

  Side jamb

  jamb casing back 1⁄4 in. from the inner edges of

  the jambs to create a 1⁄4-in. reveal. Then nail up

  the head casing. If casing corners are mitered,

  nail through the joint to draw it tight, as shown

  Gap between

  in the bottom phot
o above. Note: A flashing strip

  door frame and RO

  or piece of flashing tape will be applied over the

  upper leg of the cap flashing to direct water away

  from the sheathing. ( Above overlaps below. )

  Head jamb

  5. Once you have installed the head casing,

  Casing

  attach the head flashing (cap flashing) that was

  1

  supplied by the door manufacturer. If your

  /4-in. reveal

  prehung door didn’t come with head flashing,

  any sheet-metal shop can fabricate a piece of

  Doorstop

  galvanized head flashing with the proper offset

  for the thickness of the head casing so water

  drips beyond it. Many lumberyards also carry a

  When installing casing, set it back 1/4 in. from the jamb edges.

  variety of preformed flashing, and brickworks

  This setback, called a reveal, tricks the eye: Even if jambs or casings

  carry specialized head casing.

  are not straight, their joints look straight.

  118 Chapter 6

  6. Caulk the head casing/sheathing joint, press

  the cap flashing down onto the casing, then use

  large-head nails to nail the top flange of the flash-

  ing to the sheathing. Apply self-adhesive flashing

  tape or strip flashing over the top leg of the head

  Just above grade, this wide

  flashing, and run housewrap and siding down

  opening needed some extra

  over that.

  attention. A self-adhesive

  bituminous waterproofing

  Instal ing French Doors

  membrane seals the sheathing/

  foundation joint (just visible,

  Installing double doors requires more plumb and

  lower left); this flexible

  level readings, shim adjustments, and—above

  membrane, in turn, is covered by

  all—more patience than hanging a single door,

  galvanized sheet metal. The

  but the procedure is much the same. So I’ll zip

  bottom of the rough opening

  Because French doors are wide and heavy, it’s crucial that

  also is wrapped with foil-faced

  through the steps covered earlier to get to the

  the subfloor of the opening be level. Insufficiently

  peel-and-stick flashing, which

  adjustment most often required when installing

  supported, French-door thresholds can flex, become

  extends 4 in. up the studs at

  double doors: figuring out why the doors don’t