Renovation 4th Edition

by Michael Litchfield

  troweled surface. Otherwise, the finish coat won’t troweled onto walls. To ensure that the

  stick well.

  mixture is distributed uniformly, stir the

  bonder into water before mixing the liquid

  Finish coat. The finish coat is about 1⁄8 in. thick

  with the dry ingredients. Reduce the amount

  and textured to match the rest of the building.

  of water accordingly, as recommended by the

  When attempting to match an existing texture,

  manufacturer. To ensure that a patch will

  you may need to experiment. If at first you don’t

  adhere well, brush bonder full strength all

  achieve a good match, scrape off the mud and try around the edges of the hole or crack you’ll fill

  again until you find a technique that works.

  with new stucco. Merely applying patch stucco

  Textures are discussed at the end of this stucco-

  without bonder creates a “cold joint,” which is

  ing section.

  more likely to fracture. In most cases, you

  stucco trim. If doors or windows in stucco walls must apply new stucco before the bonder

  are cased with wood trim, flash head casings with dries; otherwise, the joint won’t be as strong,

  Cut back stucco to replace and

  flashing tape. Metal windows in stucco usually

  although products such as Thorobond® and

  correctly flash windows. Here, the

  have no casing to dam up water and need no

  Weld-Crete® will reemulsify when moistened

  roof leaked because the corner of the

  head flashing; metal windows usually have an

  by the next stucco coat.

  window was too close to the roof,

  integral nailing flange that serves as flashing after

  where a lazy roofer just stopped the

   Prepackaged stucco mix is helpful

  being caulked. If you need to cut back stucco

  step-flashing. The replacement

  because it eliminates worry about correct

  window won’t be as tall, so its sill will

  siding to repair rot or install a new window,

  proportions among sand, cement, and

  be at least 4 in. above the roof.

  install flashing tape over the head casing, and

  plasticizing agents. However, you will need to

  install polymer-reinforced flashing strips along

  add bonder to the mix.

  the sides and under the sill.

  Exteriors

  175

   Color-coat pigment (also known as

  separates damaged stucco from intact stucco,

  LaHabra color or permanent color topcoat) is

  prying up this 6-in. corridor of stucco will not

  a pigmented finish coat, available in a limited

  disturb the solid areas above it.

  range of colors. Its principal advantage is its

  Now the strenuous work begins. Using a

  ease of mixing and its depth of color, which is

  mason’s hammer or a beat-up framing hammer,

  P R O T I P

  as deep as the finish layer. But precolored

  carefully pulverize the corridor of pried-up stucco.

  topcoats usually aren’t of much use to

  Stucco is hard stuff, so whacking it in place with

  A ragged edge is easier to dis-

  renovators because their colors aren’t likely to

  a hammer is more likely to drive it into the wood

  guise than a straight line when

  match older colors on a house. If a house is

  sheathing than to pulverize it. However, if you

  applying repair stucco. So when

  already painted white, however, white-

  pry up the stucco slightly, you can slide a hand

  using a hand chisel or a chipping

  pigmented stucco will require fewer coats of

  sledge under it to serve as an anvil. Then, between

  hammer, make your fracture lines

  paint to blend.

  a hammer and a hard place, the stucco will shat-

  meander. A rough edge also helps

   Masonry paint and primer, which is

  ter nicely.

  hold the patch in. For this reason,

  alkali-resistant, can be used on any new

  After you’ve removed all old chunks of stucco,

  don’t use a diamond blade in a

  masonry surface. You should still wait at least

  you’ll have a 6-in.-wide section of unencumbered

  circular saw to cut out stucco.

  two to three weeks for the stucco to “cool off”

  wire mesh and, ideally, a layer of largely intact

  Besides, a circular-saw blade is

  too likely to cut through the wire

  before painting it. (Follow the manufacturer’s

  building paper under that. Once you’ve replaced

  mesh and the waterproofing

  recommended wait times.) Use two coats of

  the rotted framing (and sheathing), insert new

  membrane.

  primer and two coats of finish paint.

  paper, tie new mesh to the old—just twist the wire

  ends together—and nail both to the sheathing.

  Now you’re ready to apply the new scratch coat.

  thE REPAIR

  Before repairing damaged areas, first diagnose

  why the stucco failed. Then determine the extent

  of the damage by pressing your palms firmly on

  both sides of the hole or crack. Springy areas

  should be removed. Continue pressing until you

  feel stucco that’s solidly attached. When remov-

  ing damaged areas, be deliberate and avoid dis-

  turbing surrounding intact stucco. Avoid damag-

  ing existing lath so you can attach new lath to it.

  Also avoid ripping the old building paper if possi-

  ble. Safety note: Whether removing old stucco or

  mixing new, wear eye protection, heavy leather

  gloves, and at least a paper dust mask.

  You can use a hammer and a cold chisel to

  remove a small section of damaged stucco. But

  for larger jobs, rent an electric chipping hammer

  Used correctly, an electric chipping hammer fractures

  with a chisel bit. Important: The bit should just

  stucco without destroying the underlying wire mesh and

  waterproofing membrane.

  fracture the stucco, not cut through it. Ideally,

  the underlying wire mesh and building paper will

  remain undamaged.

  Let’s say you’re removing stucco to expose a

  rotted mudsill. Using a chipping hammer, frac-

  ture the stucco surface in two roughly parallel

  lines. On the first pass, delineate the top of the

  stucco to be removed. Then make a second pass

  6 in. lower. Basically, you’ll eventually demolish

  all the stucco below the top cutline and restucco

  it after you replace the mudsill. But if you care-

  fully remove the top 6 in. of the damaged stucco,

  you’ll preserve the wire mesh in that section,

  giving you something to tie the new mesh and

  stucco to.

  Cut through the wire mesh exposed by the

  To remove stubborn chunks of old stucco from the wire

  mesh, pry up the mesh enough to slide the head of a hand

  second pass, insert a pry bar under the stucco, and sledge underneath so it can serve as an anvil. Hammered

  pry up to detach the stucco from the sheathing.

  stucco will then p
ulverize. Wear eye protection and a

  Because the first pass of the chipping hammer

  paper respirator mask.

  176 Chapter 7

  If only the finish coat is cracked, wire-brush

  and wet the brown coat, apply fresh bonding liq-

  uid, and trowel in a new finish coat. But if the

  cracks are deeper, the techniques for repair are

  much the same as those for patches, except that

  you need to undercut the cracks. That is, use a

  cold chisel to widen the bottom of each crack.

  This helps key in (hold) the new stucco. Chip

  away no more than you must for a good mechan-

  ical attachment. Then brush the prepared crack

  well with bonding liquid.

  tExtuRIng AnD FInIShIng

  To disguise new stucco patches, it’s often neces-

  sary to match the texture of the surrounding

  wall. Before texturing the finish coat, steel-trowel

  it smooth and let it set about a half hour—

  although the waiting time depends on tempera-

  ture and humidity. Cooler and more humid con-

  ditions delay drying. Stucco allowed to cure

  slowly is far stronger than fast-cured stucco. So,

  after applying the finish coat, use a hose set on

  a fine spray to keep the stucco damp for 3 days.

  Here are descriptions of the three common textures:

   Stippled. For this effect, you’ll need

  rubber gloves, an open-cell sponge float like

  those used to spread grout in tiling, a 5-gal.

  bucket, and lots of clean water. After

  dampening the sponge float, press it into the

  partially set finish coat and quickly lift the

  float straight back from the wall. As you lift

  the float, it will lift a bit of the stucco material

  and create a stippled texture looking

  After completing the repairs, texture

  somewhere between pebbly and pointy. Repeat

  the wall to blend the patch to the

  this process over the entire surface of the

   Spanish stucco or skip troweled. This

  surrounding stucco. Here, plastering

  patch, feathering it onto surrounding (old)

  texture looks rather like flocks of amoebas or

  cement, LaHabra color, and water

  areas as well to blend the patch in. Rinse the

  clouds. To achieve this look, screed off the

  were mixed repeatedly, poured into a

  float often. Otherwise, its cells will pack with

  hopper, then sprayed onto the wall to

  patch so it’s just 1⁄16 in. below the level of

  create a stippled effect.

  stucco, and the float won’t raise the desired

  surrounding areas. Then, using a steel trowel,

  little points when you lift it. Equally

  scoop small amounts of stucco off a

  important, the sponge should be damp and not

  mortarboard and, with a flick of the wrist,

  wet. If you want a grosser texture than the

  throw flecks at the wall. Skim the flecks with a

  float provides, use a large open-cell natural

  swimming pool trowel because its rounded

  sponge. If you notice that the new finish is

  edges are less likely to gouge the stucco as you

  pointier than the old surrounding stucco,

  flatten the flecks slightly. Ideally, this will give

  that’s probably because the old finish has been

  you an irregular pattern of miniature mesas,

  softened by many layers of paint. To improve

  matching that of the original surface. Another

  the match, knock the new texture down a little

  approach is to use a wet, sandy mix and load it

  by lightly skimming it with a steel trowel.

  onto your steel trowel unevenly. (Beforehand,

   Swirled. Screed (level) the patch’s finish

  coat the hole well with bonder so the new

  coat to the surrounding areas, and feather it

  material adheres well.) Again, using a

  in. After you’ve made the patch fairly flat,

  swimming pool towel, you’ll see the material

  comb it gently with a wet, stiff-bristled brush.

  “skipping” over the sand particles, leaving

  For best results, use a light touch and rinse

  flattened patches of texture and gaps. To get

  often; otherwise, you’ll drag globs of stucco

  the right texture, you’ll need to experiment

  out of the hole. By varying the pressure on the

  with trowel pressure, mix stiffness, and wrist

  brush, you can change the texture.

  movement.

  Exteriors

  177

  MAtERIAlS

  Rain Gutters

  Gutters direct water away from the house, pre-

  Metal gutters can be fabricated on site by a gutter

  venting water from collecting next to the founda-

  specialist with a mobile machine. Or you can

  tion and thereby possibly undermining it. The

  assemble them from 10-ft. or 20-ft. prefab

  two most common gutter profiles are half-round

  lengths, using pop rivets and exterior caulking.

  and K-style, in which the gutter has a squared-off Plastic gutter sections need cementing. Gutter

  back and an ogee front. For appearance’s sake,

  runs that are longer than 40 ft. need an expan-

  try to match the profile of new gutters to old.

  sion joint to keep them from buckling. Here are

  To clear water adequately, gutters must be

  the materials most commonly used.

  sized properly and cleared of leaves and debris

  Aluminum. By far the most popular, aluminum

  twice a year—in spring and in fall. Your lumber-

  resists corrosion, is easily worked, is reasonably

  yard probably has elaborate gutter-sizing charts

  priced, and is durable—though it will dent. It

  based on regional rainfall, roof square footage,

  comes prepainted in a range of colors. Standard

  and pitch. But you might remedy chronically

  thickness is 0.028 in., but spending a little more

  overflowing downspouts simply by upsizing the

  for 0.032 in. is prudent, especially if heavy snows

  gutters from a standard 5-in. width to a 6-in.

  and ice dams are common in your area.

  model and installing larger downspouts. To keep

  galvanized steel. Stronger and harder to dent

  roof runoff from running behind gutters and rot-

  than aluminum, galvanized steel rusts if you

  ting fascia, extend the roof drip-edge flashing so

  don’t keep it painted. There are prepainted variet-

  it overhangs the gutter.

  ies, generally in the same colors as painted metal

  If gutters are spaced too far from the roof

  roofs. The minimum thickness is 26 ga.

  edge or slope away from the drip-edge, you can

  Begin any gutter installation by

  place an L-shaped piece of metal flashing over

  Copper. Handsome when new, copper acquires

  checking the slope of roof edges and

  the back of the gutter and tuck its upper edge up

  a beautiful green patina as it weathers. It’s mal-

  trim and then measuring the areas

  under the drip-edge. (Notch that flashing so it fits leable, durable, and about five times as expensive

  to receive
gutters. Typically, gutters

  around the roof hangers.) Some K-style gutters

  as aluminum. This gutter is usually formed from

  extend beyond the roof section 1⁄2 in. also come with an integral flange that runs under 16-oz. sheet copper. Copper resists salt air but on each end. As you reconnoiter,

  the roofing and serves the same function as a

  may be corroded by cedar-shingle runoff.

  consider where downspouts will be

  least obtrusive.

  drip-edge.

  Plastic. Plastic comes in 8-ft. and 10-ft. lengths,

  with matched fittings. You can join sections

  either with liquid cement or with neoprene gas-

  kets. It’s virtually maintenance-free and durable,

  if the plastic contains a UV inhibitor. Its expan-

  sion joints can accommodate a wide range

  of movement.

  zzzzzz gutter lip and Roof Pitch

  FLAT

  5/12

  1 in.

  3/4 in.

  Place gutters below the roofline,

  so they won’t be torn off by sliding snow.

  12/12

  7/12

  Most metal gutter stock is relatively lightweight, so

  it can be cut, drilled, and attached easily with a modest

  assortment of tools. When using a hacksaw on gutters,

  cut from the back and bottom sides forward, so you’ll

  1/2 in.

  be cutting the shaped (thicker) edges last. Aluminum

  1/4 in.

  and copper are soft and easy to work; galvanized steel is

  more challenging.

  178 Chapter 7

  gutter hangers

  gutter sections need to be supported by hangers at least

  every 32 in.; closer if there’s a heavy snow or ice load. the

  many variations can be grouped into two general types: roof

  zzzzzz Prefab gutter Pieces

  mounted, which employ a strap nailed to roof sheathing, and

  Spike-and-ferrule

  fascia mounted, which screw or nail directly to fascia boards or

  hanger

  Strap hanger

  rafter tails. Whatever type hanger you use, gutters are less

  Corner

  likely to pull free if you nail or screw the hangers to framing

  Connector

  behind the fascia or roof sheathing. here are profiles of four

  common hanger types:

  Bracket hanger

   Spike-and-ferrulehangers nail directly into rafter

  ends or through fascia boards. Although this is a simple sys-

  tem, its detractors point out that 7-in. spikes leave large

  holes, encourage rot, and—in the end—don’t hold well.

   Roof-mountedstrapnailers support gutters well