Renovation 4th Edition

by Michael Litchfield

  is, and you can’t reposition the fixture, cut through the joist and install doubled

  recommended rough-in specs.

  headers to redistribute the load. If possible, avoid running larger drainpipes perpen-

  dicular to joists and studs because drilling and cutting weaken the framing. But if

  drill you must, “Drilling and notching studs and Joists” on p. 342 shows acceptable

  Then use tracing-paper overlays for each floor’s

  hole sizes and locations; “maximum sizes for holes and notches” on p. 341 also will

  plumbing layout. Indicate existing fixtures, drains,

  be helpful.

  supply pipes, water-using appliances, and the

  The trickiest pipe to route is a 3-in. drain, whose outer diameter is 31⁄2 in. If that

  water heater. Where pipes are exposed, note the

  pipe runs 12 ft. horizontally, sloping 1⁄4 in. per ft., it will drop 3 in. during its run. If

  size and dimension of drains and stacks and

  it runs between enclosed joists, the pipe will need at least 61⁄2 in. height—plus the

  where the supply pipes exit into the floor above.

  height of any fittings. If floor joists are nominally 2x8s (actually, 11⁄2 in. by 71⁄2 in.),

  Especially note the location of 3-in. main drains

  things could get pretty tight. when planning pipe runs, consider pipe dimension,

  and vents. If you can cluster fixtures around larger

  slope, space for fittings, and the actual size of the lumber in your calculations.

  DWV pipes within a room—or from floor to

  floor—you’ll shorten the distance that fixture

  drains must travel and thus reduce the amount of

  framing you may have to cut or drill when run-

  ning the new pipes.

  If you’re moving or adding fixtures, make

  separate floor sketches for them, too. By laying

  tracing-paper sketches of old and new plumbing

  atop each other, you can quickly see if fixtures

  cluster and, if you’re adding fixtures to an exist-

  ing system, the closest part of a drain or supply

  plumbing

  321

  zzzzzz plumber’s Isometric sketch of

  Three-Fixture Bathroom

  Vent stack

  Branch vent

  PLAN VIEW

  TUB/SHOWER

  LAVATORY

  Fixture

  trap

  Branch

  drain

  Cold

  supply

  TOILET

  Jaws VII: wrenches and pliers. Clockwise, from upper left: tub-strainer wrench,

  slide-nut or sliding-jaw pliers, basin wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench,

  Hot

  strap wrench (won’t mar polished pipe), and no-hub torque wrench.

  supply

  Closet bend

  pipe to connect to and extend from. Plumbers

  use isometric paper to draw pipe runs, as shown

  in “Plumber’s Isometric Sketch of a Three-Fixture

  Bathroom” at left, but any to-scale sketch will

  Soil stack

  give you an approximate idea how long pipe runs

  will be. Sketches also tell you where you’ll need

  ISOMETRIC VIEW

  fittings because the pipes change direction, con-

  nect to branches, or decrease in size.

  Try to obtain sheets of plumber’s isometric paper so you can

  show bathroom rough-ins in three dimensions. Art or

  Tools

  engineering supply stores may carry the paper, but the Internet

  is probably a better bet.

  With a modest tool collection, you’ll be ready for

  most plumbing tasks.

  Pipe wrenches tighten and loosen threaded

  metal joints, such as 3⁄4-in. nipples (short pipe

  lengths) screwed into a water heater, galvanized

  pipe unions, and so on. A pair of 10-in. or 12-in.

  pipe wrenches should handle most tasks. Get

  two: Most of the time, you’ll need one wrench to

  hold the pipe and the other to turn the fitting.

  adjustable wrenches (also called Crescent

  wrenches) have smooth jaws that grip but won’t

  mar chrome nuts and faucet trim. Get several:

  A 4-in. adjustable wrench is right for the closet

  bolts that anchor toilet bowls, a 12-in. wrench

  gives extra leverage for stubborn nuts, and an

  8-in. wrench is appropriate for almost every-

  thing else.

  Strap wrenches aren’t a must-have tool but are

  Cutting and reaming tools. Top row, from left: miniature hacksaw, close-quarters cutter, combo

  useful when you need to grip polished pipe with-

  chamfer and reamer (cleans burrs from pipe ends after cutting), and aviation snips. Bottom row,

  out scarring it.

  from left: reamer, utility knife, large-wheeled tubing cutter (cuts up to 2-in. plastic pipe), and

  wheeled tubing cutter. The cutting wheels can be changed for different pipe materials.

  322 Chapter 12

  Slide-nut (sliding-jaw) pliers are good utility

  tools for holding nuts, loosening pipe stubs, and

  holding a pipe section while it’s being soldered.

  Locking pliers (or Vise-Grip pliers) adjust and

  clamp down on fittings, for example, so you

  can have both hands free to hold a torch and

  apply solder.

  Basin wrenches are about the only tools that

  can reach water-supply nuts on the underside of

  sinks and lavs, where supply pipes attach to

  threaded faucet stems.

  Tub-strainer wrenches tighten tub strainer and

  tailpiece assemblies.

  No-hub torque wrenches tighten stainless-steel

  band clamps on no-hub couplings. Many plumb-

  ers use a cordless drill/driver to do most of the

  tightening, but code requires that final tightening

  be done by hand.

  Miscellaneous tools. Clockwise, from left: torpedo level, hammer, 14.4-volt cordless drill, flint and

  steel striker (lights torch), gas soldering torch, tape measure, and plumber’s sand cloth (used before

  Pipe cutters (also called wheeled tubing cutters) fluxing pipe).

  are the best tools for a clean, square cut on cop-

  per pipe. Tighten the cutter so that its cutting

  wheel barely scores the pipe, then rotate the tool

  around the pipe, gradually tightening until the

  cut is complete. Many types have a foldaway

  deburring tool. Use a close-quarters cutter (thumb

  cutter) where there’s no room for a full-size one.

  If you’re installing CPVC plastic supply pipe, use

  tubing shears for clean, quick cuts. A hacksaw

  works but not as well.

  a reaming tool (if your cutter doesn’t have one

  attached) is used to clean metal burrs after cut-

  ting copper. Use a round wire brush to polish the

  inside of copper fittings after reaming and

  plumber’s sand cloth to polish the pipe ends. If

  you’re cutting plastic pipe, use a rounded file to

  remove burrs—the steel jaws of an adjustable

  wrench also work well for deburring plastic pipe.

  Wide-roll pipe cutters open wide to receive the

  larger diameters of plastic DWV pipe. Plastic-pipe

  saws have fine teeth that cut ABS and PVC pipe

  cleanly—and squarely, if used with a miter box. If Water-supply fittings. First column, from top: 3⁄4-in. 90, 3⁄4-in. street 90, 3⁄4-in. street 45, and
you need to cut into cast iron, rent a snap cutter,

  3⁄4-in. 45. Second column, from top: 3⁄4-in. CxF (copper-by-female) drop-ear 90, 3⁄4-in. CxF

  also known as a cast-iron cutter. It’s the only tool

  adapter, 3⁄4-in. CxM (copper-by-male) adapter, and 3⁄4-in. cap. Third column, from top: 3⁄4-in. tee,

  that cuts cast iron easily. Some models have

  3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. tee, 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. by 3⁄4-in. tee, and 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. by 1⁄2-in. tee. Fourth

  ratchet heads for working in confined places.

  column, from top: 3⁄4-in. coupling, 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. reducing coupling, 3⁄4-in. CxF union, and

  3⁄4-in. dielectric union.

  a cordless drill and a cordless reciprocating

  saw are must-haves if you’re working around

  metal pipes that could become energized by elec-

  tricity and when working in tight, often damp

  If you need to drill 2-in. (or bigger) holes, use

  crawlspaces. Old lumber can be hard stuff to drill a corded drill. Heavy-duty drilling takes sustained

  or cut, so 14.4-volt cordless tools are minimal.

  power and more torque than most cordless drills

  Cordless drills are perfect for attaching plumber’s have. A 1⁄2-in. right-angle drill (see p. 51) supplies

  strap, drilling holes in laminate countertops,

  the muscle you need in close quarters.

  and so on.

  plumbing

  323

  Propylene gas torches are somewhat more

  a torpedo level helps with leveling stub-outs (pipe

  P R O T I P

  expensive than the propane torches popular with stubs protruding into a room), sinks, and toilet

  do-it-yourselfers. Either type of torch can solder

  bowls. You’ll also want a hacksaw, screwdriver

  once you have polished metal

  1⁄2-in. or 3⁄4-in. fittings required for copper pipes,

  with interchangeable magnetic bits, utility knife,

  pipe ends, don’t touch them

  but propylene, being hotter, will do the job faster. and a hammer.

  or the insides of fittings with

  That’s especially true if there’s a small amount of

  your bare skin; skin has oils

  that may prevent solder from

  water left in a pipe.

  Copper Water-Supply Pipe

  adhering to the surface. wear

  Nonasbestos flame shields protect wood fram-

  This section focuses largely on installing rigid

  clean, disposable plastic gloves

  ing when soldering joints. It is also important to

  copper water pipe. It’s strong, easily worked,

  whenever handling, cutting, and

  have a fire extinguisher nearby.

  approved by virtually all codes, and represents

  soldering pipe.

  Your plumbing kit should also include a hand- more than three-quarters of residential installa-

  ful of other tools. Aviation snips are used for cut-

  tions. Flexible PEX tubing, which will be dis-

  ting perforated strap and trimming gaskets, and

  cussed later in the chapter, is gaining market

  share quickly, especially in renovations.

  FITTIngs

  plumbing safety

  If you divide fittings into a few categories, their

  

  many names start to make sense. Because they

  get a work permit and a copy of current plumbing codes from your local building

  do similar things, supply-pipe and DWV fittings

  department. Follow the codes closely; they’re there to protect you.

  often share names.

   get a tetanus shot before you start, and dress for dirty work.

   wear protective eyewear when using power tools, chiseling, soldering, and

  Fittings join pipes. The simplest fitting is a cou-

  striking with hammers—in short, for most plumbing tasks. wear heavy gloves when

  pling, which joins two straight lengths of pipe.

  A reducing coupling joins different size pipes. A

  handling drainpipe and disposable plastic gloves when working with solvent-based

  cements or soldering. wear a respirator (not a mere dust mask) when soldering or work-

  ing around existing soil pipes; p100 filters are the standard protection.

   use only cordless power tools when cutting into supply pipe. If a corded power

  tool shorts out in that situation, it could be fatal. Before cutting into finish surfaces,

  shut off the electrical power to nearby outlets, and test with a voltage tester, as shown

  zzzzzz pipe Fitting

  on p. 268, to be sure power is really off.

   ensure good ventilation when joining pipes because heated solder and solvent-

  Socket depth

  based cements give off noxious fumes. make sure you have adequate lighting.

   when soldering joints in place, place a nonasbestos flame shield behind the fit-

  tings to avoid igniting the wood framing. have a plant spritzer, filled with water, on

  hand to dampen the wood if you must solder fittings close to framing; make sure

  there’s a fire extinguisher on site. molten flux or solder can burn you, so be careful.

   when connecting to existing Dwv pipes, plan the task carefully. Flush pipes

  with clean water beforehand, and have parts ready so that you can close things up as

  soon as possible. To avoid weakening nearby joints, be sure to support pipes before

  Alignment marks

  cutting them.

   Be fastidious about washing

  thoroughly after handling contaminat-

  ed waste pipes and chemicals.

   If you smell gas, stop working:

  running equipment or soldering could

  spark an explosion. If you can quickly

  locate the gas shutoff valve outside,

  shut it off. In any event, clear every-

  one from the house at once and call

  When measuring pipe, al ow for socket

  the local gas utility.

  depths. Also when dry-fitting pipe

  assemblies, draw alignment marks on

  When soldering copper, prevent fires by

  pipes and fittings to help you point

  placing a nonasbestos flame shield

  the fittings in the right direction when

  between the fittings and wood framing.

  assembled. This is particularly helpful

  when giving plastic fittings one-

  quarter turn after glue is applied.

  324 Chapter 12

  socket Depths

  of aBs/pvC Fittings*

  sockeT

  sockeT

  dIameTeR (in.)

  dePTH (in.)

  11⁄2

  

  3⁄4

  2

  

  7⁄8

  3

  

  11⁄2

  * Fitting sockets vary, always measure depth to be sure.

  repair coupling has no internal stop midway, so

  it can slide all the way onto a pipe, then slide

  Water-supply valves. Clockwise, from upper left: Lever-handle ball valve, 5⁄8-in. by 3⁄8-in. angle

  back over a new piece of pipe inserted to repair

  stop, TPR valve, female hose bib, and gate valve.

  a damaged section. A union is a coupling you

  can disconnect.

  that keep water heaters from exploding should

  S a f e T y a l e R T

  Fittings change direction. The most common

  the water get too hot or the tank pressure

  directional fitting is a 90
° elbow, also known sim-

  too great.

  Check the solder label to

  ply as a 90 or an ell. For a more gradual turn, use

  make sure it is lead-free.

  a 45° elbow, also called a 45 or a 1⁄8 bend. A street

  workIng wITh

  although lead has long been

  ell is a 90° elbow with one hubless end, which

  Copper supply pIpe

  known to be a neurotoxin,

  can fit directly into the hub of another fitting.

  plumbers continued to use 50:50

  Ditto, a street 45.

  Type M rigid copper is the most commonly used

  (half-lead) solder until it was

  copper supply pipe in houses, although type L,

  Tees join three pipes. Tees (also spelled T’s)

  banned in 1986. modern solders

  which is thicker, may also be specified. Type K,

  allow you to run branch pipes to individual fix-

  are typically tin-antimony, tin-

  the thickest of the three, is usually specified for

  silver, or tin-copper-silver alloys.

  tures or fixture groups. Reducing tees accept dif-

  commercial and industrial jobs.

  ferent size pipes. If you want to sound like a pro,

  “read a tee” by noting its run (length) dimension

  To cut rigid copper, place a tubing cutter on the

  first (in inches), then its branch leg. If both ends

  pipe so that its cutting wheel is perpendicular to

  of the run are the same size, mention that num-

  the pipe. Score the pipe lightly at first, until the

  ber only once, as in 3⁄

  cutting wheel tracks in a groove. Gradually tighten

  4 by 1⁄2. But if two legs of a

  tee reduce, cite all three of the tee’s dimensions,

  the cutting jaw as you rotate the tool, until the

  for example: a 3⁄

  wheel cuts all the way through. If you tighten the

  4 by 1⁄2 by 1⁄2.

  adapters join different types of pipe. A sweat/

  male adapter has a soldered end and a threaded

  measuring and Fitting pipe

  end. A sweat/female adapter has a threaded receiv-

  ing end. Adapters are also called transition fit-

  when measuring water-supply or Dwv pipe runs, keep in mind that most pipe

  tings because they allow a transition in joining,

  slides into fitting sockets. The depth of the socket is its seating distance (seating

  as just described, or a transition in pipe materi-

  als. A dielectric union can join galvanized and

  depth), which you must add to the face-to-face measurements between pipe fit-