P R O T I P
   and other apparel related to lead safety.
   pressed directly onto coated surfaces. Peel Away’s
   Basically, stripping exterior paint becomes a
   although power washing is
   active agent is lye, which is extremely caustic, so
   choice between mechanical scrapers and chemi-
   widely used to clean stucco,
   after stripping surfaces, you’ll need to apply a
   cals. Sandblasting is too dirty, damaging, and
   brick, aluminum, and vinyl sid-
   special neutralizing solution before priming or
   dangerous to be done by anyone but an expert.
   ing, it’s not appropriate for wood
   painting.
   Sanding and hand scraping a whole house is
   siding. it can gouge and even
   impossibly slow. And whereas heat guns are OK
   shred wood, force water into
   aPPlYing exterior Paint
   for small areas, the snail’s pace of stripping a
   gaps around doors and windows,
   house and the real risk of starting a fire make it a Prep work done, it’s almost time to paint. Even if
   soak insulation inside walls, and
   distant third option. So, in the end, some combi-
   inject water into wood that will
   you’ve read this entire chapter, you might want to
   take weeks to dry. Certainly,
   nation of mechanical scraping, chemicals, and
   scan it one last time for tips about paint quality,
   never use power washers to
   limited hand scraping will probably serve best.
   tools, basic techniques, spray painting, and so on.
   strip paint: they’ll scar wood and
   Mechanical scrapers such as AIT’s Paint
   Here’s a quick review of factors mentioned in
   scatter paint flecks to the ends
   Shaver® are serious, two-handed tools.
   greater detail earlier in this chapter: Regarding
   of the earth.
   Mechanical scrapers look somewhat like angle
   exterior coatings, the more opaque the finish, the
   grinders but have carbide-tipped rotary cutter-
   better it will protect wood siding. Clear, oil-based
   heads that shave paint from the clapboard faces
   sealers help siding shed water without obscuring
   and edges. The better models have vacuum
   the wood grain, but they must be reapplied every
   attachments that collect most of the debris.
   two to four years because they offer relatively lit-
   Nonetheless, have tarps in place before starting,
   tle protection from UV rays. A second option,
   and to prevent cutter damage, set siding nails
   semitransparent stains resemble thinned-down
   well below the surface. Thus, as you strip, you’ll
   paints and represent a compromise that adds UV
   need a hammer and a nail set to set the nails you
   protection but reduces siding visibility. That is,
   missed. Also, be sure to use scaffolding so you
   you can see wood texture but not its grain. Third,
   can focus on the tool and not your footing.
   there’s paint that completely hides and thus pro-
   To minimize damage to the siding, first set the tects wood the best, if correctly applied. Which
   tool’s depth adjustment so you need several passes brings us to acrylic latex.
   to strip a surface. Finding the right cutting depth acrylic latex is king. What’s not to like? Simply
   is largely a matter of trial and error, so first test
   called latex, it’s durable, flexible, virtually odor-
   the tool on an inconspicuous section. Beyond
   less, and cleans up with soap and water. Use
   that, the real trick to mechanical scraping is
   good-quality latex primer-sealer and paint on all
   keeping the steel shoe/guard flat to the surface so exteriors, whether covering existing paint or
   the tool strips evenly. Where a Paint Shaver won’t
   Painting
   533
   a spray OF TiPs
    Spray exterior trim first. mask the siding, spray the trim, and let
   it dry before removing the first masking. then mask over (cover) the
   trim so you can paint the siding.
    to mask off windows, apply double-sided masking tape around
   the perimeter of the window. Press sheet plastic to the tape and trim
   off the excess plastic.
    to keep paint off building elements you don’t want painted, use
   a cardboard shield to block the spray, as shown at left.
    don’t spray when it’s windy. even if the air is calm, move cars
   and lawn furniture away from the house or cover them. if your house
   is close to a neighbor’s, ask the neighbors to do the same or, better,
   do it for them.
    After you spray a section, immediately brush the paint into the
   surface. Back brushing helps sprayed paint adhere better, look great,
   and last longer. But because latex dries so quickly, back brush before
   spraying the next section.
   Use a cardboard shield to prevent
   overspray onto adjacent areas.
   After spraying a section of siding,
   immediately brush the paint into the
   wood—and into the building seams—
   using a 4-in. brush.
   534 Chapter 18
   unfinished siding. Oil-based primers are justified a brush to cut in the edges—or spray it. Exterior
   only if your siding is raw redwood or cedar, or if
   rolling is much the same as interior rolling: Roll
   you’ve had problems with tannin bleed-through
   on fat paint in a zigzag pattern, before rolling it
   and so need to block stains before repainting.
   out evenly. To minimize spatter, roll the first
   Latex is also best for masonry, stucco, aluminum, stroke up. In general, the smoother the exterior
   P R O T I P
   and vinyl siding because it’s the only coating flex-
   surface, the shorter the roller cover nap.
   ible enough to expand and contract as siding
   apply primers and topcoats full strength,
   it’s impossible
   heats and cools.
   to tell from a
   except when the paint seems to be drying too
   manufacturer’s small sample
   Optimal conditions. Check the weather before
   quickly. Latex dries quickly and adheres well, so
   swatch how a paint color will
   you start painting. Ideally, wait until several con-
   you don’t need to sand between coats unless you
   look on a house. instead, prime
   secutive dry days are forecast. If possible, wait a
   wait several days or more. Consult the label on
   and paint a sheet of plywood—
   week after a rain. Also allow morning mists to
   the paint container for drying times and maxi-
   and repaint it until you find a
   evaporate before painting. Humidity near 90% is
   mum intervals between coats. For a lasting paint
   color you love. by the way, paint
   risky because it doesn’t allow the paint to cure.
   job, apply one coat of primer and at least two
   stores often are willing to tint
   The best temperatures for curing range from
   topcoats. (It’s generally not necessary to prime
   primer to match your eventual
   60ºF to 85ºF. Don’t paint when temperat
ures are
   existing paint that’s in good shape and well
   topcoat, which helps topcoats
   cover better and look truer.
   90ºF or above because surfaces that are too hot
   prepped.) However, prime all siding that has been
   can cause paint to blister. Finally, stop painting
   sanded or begun weathering down to bare wood.
   two hours before sundown if nighttime tempera-
   Oil-based stains and semitransparent stains
   tures could drop below 40ºF.
   do not need thinning. Apply them full strength
   If possible, don’t paint in strong sun. Paint the to bare wood. If you’ve stripped the house of its
   west and south faces of the house early in the
   original paint and want to switch to stain, test a
   morning; the north face at noon; and the east
   small section first. Because a clear stain will
   face and any part of the south face still remain-
   probably look uneven, a semitransparent stain is
   ing in the afternoon.
   likely the better bet. To apply stain, a paint pad
   Latex paint should flow on easily and dry
   will hold more stain than a brush but requires a
   slowly enough that brushmarks level (disappear). little practice to avoid runs.
   To slow the rate of drying, add a dash of Flood
   As with paint, apply stain to the undersides of
   Floetrol to latex, as indicated on the container.
   the shingle or clapboard courses first. To avoid
   To slow the rate of drying of oil-based paint, add
   getting stain on your skin, wear a long-sleeved
   Flood Penetrol.
   shirt, rubber gloves, a hat, and safety glasses.
   a painting sequence. Paint the house from top
   to bottom. To minimize overlap marks on clap-
   boards, paint horizontal sections all the way
   across, until they end at window or door trim or
   at the end of a wall. After painting large sections,
   zzzzzz avoiding direct sun
   go back and paint the trim, windows, and doors,
   top to bottom. Last, paint gutters, porches, and
   Sun
   N
   rises here.
   decks. If you can remove shutters, doors, screens,
   and the like, do so; they are much easier to paint
   if placed across sawhorses. Don’t bother to mask
   trim or windows unless you’re spray painting.
   Again, you can scrape stray paint from window
   glass with a razor tool later.
   Using a brush, paint the bottom edges of hori-
   zontal siding before applying paint to the flat
   face of each board. To distribute paint evenly
   along siding, load the brush with fresh paint,
   then partially unload it by dabbing every foot or
   Start
   so. Spread out the dabs, brushing the paint in
   painting here.
   and smoothing it with the grain. For exteriors,
   a 4-in. brush is the workhorse for the big spaces.
   A 3-in. angled sash brush is handy for cutting in
   trim edges and corners. For a sequence of paint-
   Avoid the sun around the house as you paint
   ing double-hung window parts, see p. 522.
   so that you apply paint in the shade if possible.
   If the house has a stucco exterior or some
   Paint applied in full sunlight is more likely to
   other flat expanse, roll the paint on—after using
   blister later.
   Painting
   535
   19 Wallpapering
   Wal paper has been popular for centuries,
   particularly in formal rooms, where there’s less
   danger from little ones’ grimy fingers and rowdy
   ways. Paint has long been favored for rooms that
   get the most use and abuse because it’s durable
   and easy to clean and apply.
   Today, wallpaper is available in so many
   materials—including grasses, bamboo, rice
   paper, foil, and cork—that they are collectively
   called wallcoverings, and some of them are stron-
   ger, more durable, and easier to maintain than
   some paints. Many are backed with paper or
   cloth, with cloth being stronger. But by far the
   most popular are vinyl-coated wallcoverings,
   which are washable and grease-resistant.
   Most wallcoverings come prepasted. This
   makes them easier to apply and—years later—
   easier to strip from the wall. Because the manu-
   facturer has already pasted the covering, all you
   need to do is unroll it and soak it briefly in a
   water tray. As you’ll see in this chapter, many
   pros avoid the drips and mess of a water tray by
   rolling a prepaste activator onto the backing.
   Selecting Materials
   Choose a wallcovering whose pattern and color
   are appropriate for the room. There are no hard
   and fast rules on what works. But in general,
   lighter colors make rooms look larger, and darker
   colors make rooms look smaller. Smaller, sub-
   dued patterns are better for quiet rooms. Splashy
   floral prints tend to serve better in places such as
   front halls that bustle with activity. Delicate tex-
   tiles or grasses are best reserved for rooms with
   To hang wallcovering, start by unfolding the top half of a
   pasted strip and carefully align it to a plumbed line or to
   the plumbed edge of the preceding strip.
   536
   Stringcloth
   Cork
   English fabric
   Grass
   Vinyl-coated with
   Foil
   Lincrusta
   decorative border
   little traffic and little risk of bruising. Also, con-
   papers will accentuate flaws and won’t conceal
   sider the age and energy level of the people in the underlying bold paints or vivid patterns. If walls
   room. For example, vinyl-coated murals of rock
   or trim are badly out of square, avoid coverings
   stars or sports themes will appeal to kids and
   with large, bold patterns because slight mis-
   endure abuse.
   matches along their edges will be more obvious
   Washable wallcoverings can be sponged clean than if patterns are subdued.
   occasionally with a mild soap or cleaning solu-
   tion. Scrubbable coverings can take a vigorous
   Wallcoverings
   scouring with a nylon-bristled brush or a pad, as
   Wallpaper, actual paper, is most appropriate for
   well as stronger cleaning agents. There are also
   historically accurate restoration and wherever
   strippable and peelable wallcoverings, discussed
   you want fine detail. Although vinyl coverings are
   at greater length in “Stripping Wallpaper”
   increasingly hard to distinguish from paper,
   on p. 543.
   vinyls tend to look glossier. Although paper may
   For do-it-yourselfers, it’s smart to choose a
   have an aesthetically pleasing flat finish, it is
   covering that’s easy to hang. That is, textured
   more vulnerable to grime and abuse.
   coverings can be fragile and difficult to handle.
   The condition of existing walls also should affect
   Vinyl is today’s workhorse, available in a dizzy-
   your decision. For example, heavy coverings can
 />   ing range of patterns and in finishes ranging
   conceal minor wall flaws, whereas lightweight
   Wallpapering
   537
   paper-backed, acrylic-backed, or unbacked (raw).
   And the backing largely determines the method
   Papering oVer DiFFereNCes of installation. Avoid slopping adhesive or water
   Almost everybody still refers to wallcovering as “wallpaper.” But in this chapter, wall-
   onto the fabric facing because some fabrics stain
   covering, the noun, will be the general term for both paper and nonpaper coverings.
   easily; delicate fabrics are usually dry hung, in
   which paste is applied to the wall and the dry
   However, when used as a verb, wallpaper refers to the act of hanging either type of
   wallcovering is smoothed onto it.
   covering. Last, you can assume that advice on papering or prepping walls also holds
   true for ceilings.
   Natural textures, such as rice paper, grasses,
   and bamboo, tend to be expensive, temperamen-
   tal, and delicate. And because the thinner cover-
   ings reveal even minor flaws in wall surfaces, you
   first need to cover the walls with a lining paper.
   from flat to glossy. Vinyl is especially suitable for
   Still, natural textures are evolving, with vinyl-
   areas with traffic and moisture. Most vinyls are
   coated versions that are relatively durable and
   washable, and cloth-backed vinyls are usually
   easy to install. Besides their beauty, most natural
   strippable—that is, they are easily removable
   textures have no pattern that needs matching.
   when you want to change them. Although no
   Foils and Mylar® also vary greatly in appear-
   wallcovering is intended to conceal major cracks
   ance and ease of handling. For example, heavier,
   and irregularities, heavier vinyls can conceal
   vinyl-laminated foils are durable and easy to
   minor flaws.
   install. However, some uncoated metallic cover-
   Fabric coverings include cotton, linen, silk,
   ings retain fingerprints, so you should wear
   stringcloth, and wool. They’re often chosen to
   disposable nitrile gloves when hanging them, or
   match or coordinate with colors and textures in
   perhaps avoid them altogether. That said, foils
   drapes and fabric-covered furniture. They come
   are well suited to small rooms because they
   reflect light, thus making the space appear larger.
   Lincrusta, an embossed wallpaper similar to
   a fine cardboard, is making a comeback. The
   
 
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