Cut & Run

by Nic Lomax

  Ali was cagey at first and came across a little coy with the information, and as he reeled off the various tales of how the wave was discovered, his voice became shaky and almost nervous, as if the story itself was shrouded with an evil not yet understood.

  ‘We had chartered the waters before and knew not to stray too close as the island is protected, and the reefs have no official charts to proficiently navigate. The last thing I wanted was to lose tide and be the wrong side of the reef, especially with guests on-board. But this time was different. The deep depression at the base of the Indian ocean had sent a swell of such a long period, that a set of waves would only appear every thirty seconds to a minute, and I could see in the distance to the west of the island this mass of water funnelling through a trench, and heaving up on to the reef creating this wave. As we got to a point where the boat could be safely moored I grabbed my stick and jumped in to get a closer look. Man… it was a sight that would stay with me, with similar shape to peak at Teahpoo but shallower and faster. I sat on my board taking it in, each wave exploded with so much ferocity the sound was deafening, and the light offshore breeze muffled the shouts and then screams that were coming from the guys on the boat behind.’

  Kai was literally on the edge of his seat open jawed like a child learning about Christmas! He drank the end of his beer and pressed Ali to finish the tale. Ali looked dishevelled and uneasy as he pressed on.

  ‘As I glanced over to the boat to see what all the fuss was about, something caught my eye beyond the reef pass. Four or five canoe shaped vessels armed with four bare chested men were driving their oars with such ferocity, I could make out they were covering at least eight knots and closing the gap between them and my boat. They were hostile too, armed with spears which were not far from hitting their mark. I made it back just as one of my team drew anchor. The chants and drumming echoed over the water and one of my guest was hit by a missile which turned out to be a lump of dead coral. It was super sketchy and I can safely say I haven’t been back since. All I know is, it exists, it’s heavily guarded…’ he paused, ‘and they don’t like outsiders.’

  Stu and Kai quizzed him further which prompted the same response.

  ‘Guy’s look it’s like this, it exists and the swell season is nearly upon us. But let me give it to you straight. You need to be invisible and I mean super stealth to even make it to the line-up. The wave is so fast it will chew you up and spit you out. If things go bad you need an exit strategy that the likes of James Bond could only execute.’

  Stu smiled at Kai and beat his chest like the primate he was.

  ‘Fuck! After what went down in Mauritius I think we should train for a month or two and have a crack at it! Hell- I could even call you James Blonde!’

  Kai didn’t laugh this time, his mind was wandering between set waves and the beating of the war drums that crept across the breeze. Kai was already on the wave entwined inside the barrel locked in combat with survival. It was Ali that shook him back to reality.

  ‘I’ve seen that look before Kai, be careful where that train of thought leads! And who says you can charter my boat anyway?’

  The sun descended once again on a different shore, ending the day, but giving birth to a whole new adventure.

  Chapter 14

  Tapping the source

  The payphone was in poor condition and Kai could barely hear it ringing through the battered handset. And when the husky familiar voice answered Kai was on a precipice of emotion. His voice became stuttered as the waves of joy pulsed from deep within.

  ‘Am...Amber it’s me, Kai, how are you?’

  Her response came in the form of a barrage of tears, screams of elation and the curses you would only hear from a drunken sailor. Kai took the abuse as he figured he deserved it. Once the primary torrent had ceased, Kai managed to explain why he decided it would be best for them to just be friends. Too much water had passed under the bridge, he even owned up to his night of passion with Celeste. Amber was understandably upset and he secretly enjoyed making her jealous as he figured she needed to feel the same pain as she and Salty had administered when he found out about their affair. Amber was in no fit state of mind to be dealing with this abrupt finale and became almost incoherent as she tried to juggle the processing of her man trying to dump her and at the same time telling lewd tales of his latest conquest. When he returned the handset to the booth. Kai felt the grip of his shackles of guilt and responsibility release. It was now time to focus on the job in hand. Quit smoking, repair his body and get fit.

  Phuket was an ideal place to train, the beaches out of town were ones that sold paradise to the western world. Crisp white coral sand, palms and clean, clear seas. Kai and Stu spent three hours per day swimming and rock running on the sea bed. After a seafood lunch they would tow surf the small waves that caressed the point to keep their skill set up to par. The evenings were spent on the veranda eyes straining in the dwindling light as they went over the charts of the fabled archipelago. It was only the high pitch of the descending mosquito’s that spelled the end of their ocean mapping.

  ‘Kai it’s time for a beer,’ Stu said as he packed the gear away. Kai would always linger alone in the dark for a spell searching the skies for shooting stars. When he caught a glimpse of the illuminating tail as one graced the horizon, he felt a glow within as he knew his wish was finally going to come true.

  Ali was fond of Kai and it was apparent as his took his mentoring to a new level. It almost resembled scenes from the original karate kid as they went through video analysis of each other’s wave riding.

  ‘Kai, I think you could go far with what you’re doing, your fluidity and stoke is so strong. Yet you are humble enough to realise your limits. The real question is how far you should push past those limits?’

  Kai pondered a while before responding his attention focussed on a moth caught in a spider’s web in the corner of the room.

  ‘I feel a bit like that moth,’ he said pointing to the flailing creature only seconds from death. ‘Fighting for a chance that might never come!’

  Ali stood up and walked over to the web and flicked the moth free.

  ‘Sometimes bro you just need a nudge in the right direction! There is a swell coming Kai and if you’re in the right place with the right mind-set the possibilities are endless’.

  It became clear to Kai over the forthcoming weeks that he was addicted to the search, the search not only for the perfect wave but the euphoric feeling you can only get from pushing your limits. The concoction of endorphins and adrenaline cannot be gained through tapping a vein or snorting a line of the finest Columbian marching powder. It was also obvious that the gap between what he and Stu were searching for was broadening. Stu was only out to get radical, and the story was portrayed in the way he rode a wave with such aggression. Kai watched his blasé attitude with pity, and was a little gutted that it seemed that their paths were eventually going to different realms. Stu took a long drag from the spliff as they sat on the beach and blew a giant smoke ring.

  ‘You know Kai, we were always meant to be here. This wave we’re going to find and ride, it’s only going to be us that will do it!’

  He smiled in the late day sun and drew another toke of the Thai stick. Kai smiled and while he seemed to concur inside, he somehow knew it was only going to be him that would conquer the dream of this elusive venture.

  The journey was carefully plotted on the charts over several weeks, and would cover 760 kilometres and take around 7 days, with a one day stopover in the Thai Similan Islands. The boat was going to be rigged light. Enough provision to make it to Port Blair, basic fishing gear and the correct wave riding utensils. The boat herself was a 28ft classic slope sailing yacht. Ali had sailed her down from Brixham where she was built in 1960. She was a well maintained fifty year old vessel with 5 berths. Perfect for Ali’s business. Kai was on deck checking the rigging for wear when the call came in. He could see from Ali’s tone of voice that there was a problem. He looked
deflated as he passed the foredeck and walked towards Kai.

  ‘Dude, you’re not going to like this. The trips a bust. I’ve got to go and renew my working visa in Bangkok. The swell charts are starting to come to life and the window of opportunity is closing. Combine this with the tides and wind direction, you guys only have one shot at this, but unfortunately it’s without me’

  Kai felt the sinking feeling within when that one glimmer of happiness is snatched away from you and you’re brought down to earth with a deafening blow.

  ‘Ali, I can’t take your boat and head off into the unknown without you. I don’t know the waters enough.’

  Ali cut in with a guiding tone, ‘yes Kai, you can do it. If you don’t, it will be one regret you will forever possess. This is your time my friend… just bring her back to me in one piece’ he joked.

  Stu didn’t need much convincing as Kai explained the scenario. Kai knew Stu would be a bit happier to have his sidekick back as their relationship had gained distance since Ali took Kai under his wing. The plan was set and the duo were to sail at dawn to catch the tide. As they left the dock for home, in order to return in the morning, Kai gazed out to sea. He could feel the air thicken as the humidity rose and tropical rain threatened the coast. The familiar bubbles of apprehension and excitement rose from within, although this time the risk was so great he wondered if he would be returning at all. With this in mind he decided to call Amber and bid her farewell.

  Chapter 15

  The Final Destination

  Phuket was a completely different animal as dawn began to break. A few dishevelled revellers zigzagged through the somewhat calmer streets dodging tuk-tuks. Kai actually winced as one stepped in front of Ali’s pickup. Stu leaned out of the window and gave them hell. Leading down to the harbour Kai was taking in the scene, the throng of traders busily setting up their stalls, fires smouldered as all types of rubbish burned in the morning haze. Everything and everyone seemed to have a purpose and he wondered if this voyage was his purpose. With the gear stowed and a final check of the charts it was almost time to bid Al farewell. Kai embraced Ali like a brother and it was Ali’s parting words that gave him the reassurance he needed.

  ‘Good luck boys, if you guys get this right history will be made… and if you don’t remember it’s just a wave. The sun will always rise and set and another swell will come. I will see you in ten days and don’t forget, stay well clear of the reef- you’ll only have one shot.’

  Kai watched Ali’s silhouette until his being just became another blur of the coastline as the boat chugged offshore. Stu was at the helm as they made sail and their first heading was north west, to the Similan Islands which would be their final landfall before heading out into the ocean in search of the forbidden island. Two hours in and a pod of dolphins joined the pair and took turns in riding the bow waves. It was a beautiful sight and was only marred by the vast amount of litter that the boat cut through, like an ice breaker.

  ‘Stu, it’s fucking insane, plastics are literally sucking the life out of everything in front of our very eyes yet we just go with it, no question?’

  ‘Of course it is bro, the corporations don’t care and while there is money to be made and oil to be burned this will continue. It’s sad.’

  Kai smiled at the irony, Stu’s father had made his fortune from oil, and funded Stu’s carefree lifestyle for over two decades, but for once his overzealous American friend made a lot of sense. Kai couldn’t help think that may be the tribe on the island had the right idea, distancing themselves from the cancerous outside world. Twelve hours later they made sight of land and there first port of call that offered safe anchorage. Once they had tied off on a guest mooring, Kai quickly went about organising dinner. He baited a hand line and popped it over board. No sooner than it had reached the reef below than a familiar tapping hit the line and Kai struck!

  ‘Fish on!’ he shouted, as he brought the flailing creature towards the surface. It was a plump ruby red snapper of just over three pounds.

  ‘Perfect’ Stu concurred as he drew down the gaff and hooked the fish over the side of the gunnels. Then he quickly snatched at the line. ‘My turn!’ he said, but for once Kai cut him down.

  ‘No dude, let just take the one, the flesh will only spoil in this heat and its plenty big enough for dinner! Plus the more fish we have in the chiller the less room there is for the beers! While you’re down there grab us one! I’ll cook dinner!’

  The pair spent the remainder of the daylight frothing over the waves they were yet to ride and a hearty meal of fresh fish, rice and beer.

  The winds were favourable and Kai could feel the boat shifting on her mooring lines before the sun had even made her debut. He woke Stu and he groggily agreed that it was time to make sail and head off to the island. The breeze steadily increased throughout the morning and Kai could smell the various aromas as they cruised further from land. At first there were notes of diesel and suncream that drifted from the hundreds of snorkelling and day trip vessels that scoured the famous reefs. It was followed by pungent fishy fumes from the long liners hunting tuna further into the deep. Stu then took over before the mid-day sun burned in the sky, the wind suddenly dropped out and the boats progress ground to a halt. This scenario was not uncommon in this part of the world so they decided to cast a line and try for lunch. But like the wind the fishing was poor too and even Kai could not get a nibble. Stu mumbled under his breath as he went below and Kai could make out that he was referring to the previous evening when he had wanted to carry on fishing.

  The hours ticked by, and the wind still managed to elude them. Stu scanned the charts and plotted their position.

  ‘So although we were steaming this morning, if it stays like this we’re going to miss that swell Kai, unless you want to burn a bit of diesel?’

  Kai scanned the seas around them and the skies above. It was a fruitless search as he could see by the pressure on the barometer, that they were well and truly becalmed.

  ‘Fuck it, let’s fire her up and plod for a few hours, we have plenty of fuel and it can’t remain like this forever’ he said optimistically.

  The engine spluttered to life and their moods were instantly lifted as the vessel lurched forward in the response to the mechanical propulsion. Kai was at the helm and Stu was fiddling with the trolling gear when they both heard the tone of the engine change. Kai didn’t have time to reduce the throttle before the damage was already done. The sound of gear box failure is never a pleasant hymn. Especially when you are offshore and at the mercy of the sea. A closer inspection of the engine bay confirmed their worst fears.

  They sat in the eerie silence that engulfed the situation, it was Kai who broke it ‘listen its make or break. If the wind returns we have two options, the prevailing direction of the wind can either take us home or onwards to our destination. We pass the island and go on to a larger Nicobar for repairs.’

  Stu smiled and said ‘you know me Kai, always up for a challenge!’

  Like a switch being flicked, the wind shortly returned, and although the small crew wouldn’t admit it, so did their morale. Soon the hull began to heel over as the sails feasted greedily on the wind. They managed to cover some one hundred kilometres over the next 12 hours. Whether it was the right decision or not they plodded on towards the archipelago. With each nautical mile that they passed, Kai was praying for the wind to remain favourable and he was secretly hoping for the one single chance to attempt the impossible. The days passed and the wind howled, driving them on at a respectable pace and their anticipation grew. The boat was in good shape and she sliced through the translucent waters like a hot knife through butter. Kai was on deck when he swore that he could hear drumming pulsing through the gusts that motioned from the north west.

  ‘Stu’ he shouted as his friend was making tea below. Stu emerged from below deck complete with a brew and cigarette, ‘can you hear that?’

  They both paused and strained to pick out any tone that wasn’t the slap o
f the chop on the bow, or the wind in the rigging.

  ‘Hear what bro? All I hear is progress! According to the G.P.S we are probably 8 hours or less from North Sentinal Island.’

  They had decided to steam past Port Blair and on to the island. If they managed to make a secure anchorage they would have an attempt at the wave. If not, it would spell major disappointment, and back to Port Blair for repairs and to contact Ali.

  The final leg was done in darkness and Kai was going through the swell charts. It was almost implausible but everything seemed to be coming together. The swell direction was near perfect, the winds were steady and would hopefully be offshore on their arrival. It was just down to the tidal state when on the reef itself. Sleep came easy to Kai that night and so did the dreams. Like a flooding tide of emotion, strobing images of both waves and spears bombarded his mind. The grip of the torment didn’t release until he was broken from it as Stu bellowed from above.

  ‘Kai, land ho!’

  As Kai broke out of the cabin and dusted the sleep from his weary eyes, he had to strain as he finally locked his eyes on the prize. In the morning haze, the light was only beginning to caress the horizon, and it seemed to place an emphasis on the island as the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. It became unmistakable as the sun rose from its slumber. The drums began to sound and this time both Stu and Kai could not escape its haunting drone. A look of panic was strewn across Stu’s weather beaten face and Kai quickly tried to diffuse the concern.

  ‘I can’t quite get a clear view but the settlement appears to be on the north shore. Which means if they are focussed on village life we can sneak a wave or three!’ Stu still had a look of caution, but agreed to take a closer look. He didn’t however agree to commit to taking the plunge.

  The swell was indeed misleading as they neared the reef. It was at such a long period it could be seen as being none existent, then like a sniper waiting in ambush, mother nature would deal her deadly blow. A swell would funnel through the ocean trench before rearing up on the reef. Like a grizzly bear going into attack the wave would jack up, trebling in size and explode onto the coral. Kai watched with a dripping thirst. His heartbeat mimicked the war drums and he was seething to enter the water and live his dream. When they had found a safe anchor point and lowered the sails, they only had a window of about thirty minutes before the tide would drop out too far, and the reef would become dry making any escape from riding a wave impossible. Kai scanned the lagoon and beaches to see if he could make out any potential threat to his approach. After a short discussion and stale mate it was Kai who made the final decision.