The Essentials of Living Aboard a Boat

by Mark Nicholas

  Bob did not know that LOA stood for “Length Overall,” or that some marinas charge based on a boat’s LOA, particularly if the LOA is very different from the boat’s stated length. Turns out, the Hans Christian has a bowsprit that sticks way out in front of the vessel and hardware projecting off the stern; this would be a danger to boats crossing the bow or people walking by on the dock. Bob had a problem. Moreover, even if the marina could have handled the 46’ LOA, they might elect to charge Bob for either a 46-foot boat or the size of the larger slip (such as a 50-foot slip). Bob now owed $8,300 annually or $691 per month, a pretty significant monthly increase from the $500 per month he had expected to pay.

  The most important document for understanding a boat is the listing sheet. Every boat manufacturer provides detailed specifications. Some of these terms are essential to the comfort of the boat and others significantly impact the use, enjoyment, and livability of the boat. Other specifications, such as beam, may impact both comfort and operation of the boat. What follows is a listing of common categories on spec sheets. Some of these categories apply only to sailboats, but most apply to all boats.

  As an example, let’s look at the specifications for the Hunter Marine Passage 420, a 42-foot center-cockpit sailboat (most of these terms are the same for both powerboats and sailboats).

  Specification Meaning

  Length 41’1” Length of the hull of the boat,

  typically the stated length

  Important Because: A boat’s stated hull length is critical for calculations of interior space and the number of feet for which many boating expenses will be charged (such as hauling and launching). Also, this is the length that you, as the owner, will get to tell other people when bragging about how big your boat is. In this case, the boat is a 42-foot craft, but her actual length is much closer to 41 feet.

  LOA 43’5” Length Over All, or overall length of the boat including all hardware

  Important Because: This is how long your boat really is, including all of the hardware and railing, which might stick far in front of or trail behind the boat. Some marinas will charge you based on LOA (they definitely will if it is notably different than a boat’s stated length).

  LWL 37’10” Low Water Line, or the length of

  the boat at the waterline

  Important Because: The maximum speed of a displacement hull boat (a boat that moves by pushing through the water, as compared with a boat that “planes” on top of the water) is calculated by the distance of the hull at the waterline. This is called “hull speed.” The formula for a boat’s maximum speed is 1.34 times the square root of the LWL. A boat with a LWL of 37’10” will have a maximum hull speed of approximately 8 knots.

  Beam 13’10” The maximum width of the boat

  at her widest point

  Important Because: The wider the boat, the more living and storage areas in the boat. Beam, while an important measure of comfort, also might be a factor determining which slips at a marina you can be offered. Some boats get very wide in the middle but are very narrow in the bow and stern. A boat that keeps her width farther forward and aft is said to be “beamy” or to “carry her beam.” Powerboats tend to carry their beam not only far forward, but all the way to their sterns, meaning that their width is maintained throughout, making the entire boat much more spacious. Particularly for sailboats, a beamy boat is often not a performance or racing-oriented boat, but will be much more comfortable for living aboard.

  Draft 6’6” The distance from the waterline to

  the maximum depth of the boat

  Important Because: More draft may correlate to greater stability. Many powerboats do not ride very far down in the water, while sailboats, particularly performance sailboats, will ride very far down. If a boat is too deep for its given environment, it will run aground and risk major damage, injury, or sinking. Pay attention to your specific cruising area to determine the maximum advisable depth of the boat. The more draft for a sailboat, the better the performance (ability to point to the wind and resist cross-tracking) from a stability standpoint.

  Displacement 19,500 lbs The weight of the boat

  Important Because: Displacement is one measure of stability. Lighter boats require less horsepower, be it wind or engine, to move the boat to their hull speeds. Heavier boats are more stable but require more horsepower to move.

  Ballast 6,700 lbs The weight of the boat at her very

  bottom

  Important Because: The more ballast relative to displacement, the lower the boat’s center of gravity and the greater her stability. Ballast also keeps the boat upright.

  Mast Ht. 58’5” The height of the mast

  Important Because: A sailboat-only category, this is the height of the mast as measured from the waterline. Depending on your cruising area, your mast needs to be limited to a certain height to navigate bridges and obstructions. The higher the mast, the more opportunity to increase sail area and, as a counterbalance, the more ballast that can be added to increase stability.

  Sail Area 875 sq ft The total square footage of sail area

  Important Because: Obviously, another sailboat-only category. The greater the sail area, the more horsepower can be generated by a given boat. Horsepower can be calculated by sail area and displacement.

  I 47’9” Sail measurement, jib height

  J 16’2” Sail measurement, jib base

  P 45’5” Sail measurement, main luff

  E 19’3” Sail measurement, foot of the main

  Important Because: Additional sailboat-only categories, important for sailmakers.

  Headroom 6’6” Headroom

  Important Because: Do you want to have to bend over to avoid bumping your head when in your home? Didn’t think so. Practically, you might want to be sure that the headroom is maintained forward and aft and is not just a high point in a downward-sloping ceiling.

  Fuel Cap. 50 gal Total fuel the boat can carry

  Important Because: Your maximum range under power can be calculated by either engine hours or range at particular RPMs. This is a key element for planning purposes.

  Water Cap. 145 gal Total water the boat can carry

  Important Because: Important for cruisers and boats not running a direct connection to city water or using a watermaker. This water is available for showers and washing (and possibly drinking).

  Holding Tank 45 gal Total number of gallons

  Capacity for sewage

  Important Because: This is the total tankage for sewage. Note: Manufacturers of holding tanks and boats advise that the tank be kept as close to empty as possible under normal conditions.

  Water Heater 6 gal Total amount of water held

  by the water heater

  Important Because: Bigger water heaters mean potentially longer showers, although they take up space and use more power. Many cruisers calculate their shower time not only to conserve hot water, but also to conserve all water and power.

  Std. Diesel 56 hp Number of horsepower of

  the engine

  Important Because: Even though a displacement-hull boat cannot go faster than its hull speed, a stronger engine makes the boat far more responsive and controllable.

  CE Classification A A rating for the type of

  usage a boat is able to

  endure

  Important Because:

  A = Ocean (over 40 kts of wind/seas greater than 13 feet)

  B = Offshore (34-40 kts of wind and seas of up to 13 feet) C = Inshore (22-27 kts of wind and seas of up to 6.5 feet)

  D = Sheltered Waters (11-16 kts of wind and seas of up to 1.5 feet)

  A boater would be a fool to think that every A-rated boat is safe at sea and capable of crossing oceans. I am aware of 33-foot boats that are A rated, with relatively light displacements. Stability is a combination of overall displacement and ratios such as ballast to displacement. Some of these boats will have very little overall stability. Additionally, crossing oceans requires extensive experience, and even more
so with a lighter boat. I’ve done an ocean voyage in a heavy-displacement 55-foot blue-water center-cockpit boat and the ride was quite uncomfortable, for we were flying off of waves and getting soaked by water coming off the beam. The ride in any smaller boat would have been very dangerous.

  Finally, what makes a good blue-water cruising boat is not only heavy displacement and adequate length to handle heavy weather and waves, but also significant storage and equipment, fuel capacity, water capacity, and safety gear.

  The listing sheet discusses the layout of the boat as well as the systems and equipment aboard. Take all the time you need to understand every single word!

  The most that I ever learned in a day about the inner workings of my boat was the day I visited the factory that manufactured it. The amazing folks over at Hunter Marine offered me a personal tour and took the time to answer all of my questions. Most boat manufacturers offer this service; you should be able to develop a close relationship with yours as a source to help you with problems. Many of the best manufacturers are small companies that will welcome your questions and would greatly appreciate a visit.

  Now that we know what things mean, and hopefully are getting to better know ourselves, let’s go find the perfect boat.

  V-berth Used For Storage

  Aft Stateroom

  My Boat

  The Morning Fog

  1981 Hunter Marine 33

  Cherubini Design

  3. Choosing Your Boat

  I recently ran an Internet search for my next hypothetical boat and entered in some criteria that I care about. I came up with 696 boats that fit my needs, 60 in my geographic area. At times like this, there seem to be too many boats to choose from. However, when you boil them down and learn what you are looking for, there can be too few choices. The time you spend learning your preferences and needs is critical to understanding your range of options and ultimately to your final selection.

  The proper choice of a boat is one major area in which novice buyers screw up. Because they don’t take enough time to understand their needs or alternatives, they end up making unnecessary and unseen compromises. That’s unfortunate, given the fact that a little extra time and objectivity can eliminate years’ worth of regrets and costs.

  Obviously there are prerequisites to purchasing a boat, such as knowing how much you can make as a down payment (your financing company will tell you their required minimum amount, often 20 percent) and how much money your financing company will be willing to lend you. You might want to ask them about their policies for lending money for older boats (more than 20 years old) or nonfiberglass (wooden, composite, steel, aluminum, and ferrocement) boats. This is important to know before proceeding. You’ll want to have them represent and ultimately put in writing that there is no prepayment penalty. Finally, have your financing company issue you a preapproval letter, which is a letter telling potential boat sellers that you are a serious buyer who would qualify for financing if the lender approves the terms of your deal and choice of boat.

  Once you know your financing company’s guidelines, stop worrying about the process of buying the boat and focus on choosing the right boat. This requires focus and energy and is often a very difficult, frustrating, and time-consuming process, but it is more than worth it! Choice of boat is paramount for liveaboards: This is not a temporary location where you will be spending your time. You don’t get to cook your meals somewhere else, or sleep somewhere else, or host friends somewhere else. If you are a cruising liveaboard, you need to be able to adequately store everything that you will need during your excursions while still being safe and comfortable. Boats are designed and built with the normal recreational boater in mind, not the very small number of liveaboards, and you should be careful to match your needs, wants, hopes, and dreams with that of your investment.

  Speaking of investments, in general, boats are not good ones. Not only do boats depreciate in value, but the difference in value between a boat that is 19 years old and 20 years old may be significant, because many financing companies will not lend money for a boat that is 20 or more years old, and insurance companies are unwilling to insure older boats. You may find that you own a boat you cannot one day sell, which makes your boat virtually worthless.

  Even adding electronics and fancy gear to your boat won’t help much in maintaining value. Once installed, the electronics will immediately depreciate. This isn’t like a house (on real land) in which a $15,000 kitchen renovation might bring about $35,000 in increased market value. On a boat, a $2,000 radar system might bring an increased market value to the boat of $500–$1,000. That’s an immediate net loss of 50–75 percent. Then, after just a couple of years, the electronics, valuable if separated from the boat, will bring no market value increase at all to the boat.

  Another liveaboard reality to chew on: A casual boater gets to do his repairs at a comfortable pace, and has no immediate concerns if the boat cannot be occupied for a few weeks/months, or might even have to be moved to the hard (put on land) while significant repairs or improvements are being made. Obviously, this is not the case for a liveaboard. There is no place you can go to hide from the repairs. There is no vacation from the problem, and living on a boat while situated on land is torture to a liveaboard.

  Before I purchased my boat, I wouldn’t have believed that many liveaboards will often let more than a few nonessential problems slip in disrepair. Now, however, it makes perfect sense. If we varnish the interior of our homes, we have to endure the fumes when we eat our meals and go to sleep. So what do we do? Stop varnishing.

  In short, you can’t easily undo your mistakes. Choose right the first time.

  Boats DO Grow On Trees!

  There are a lot of things that don’t grow on trees, such as money. Money does not grow on trees. But boats do.

  My father taught me an important real estate lesson: Houses grow on trees, meaning that a better deal will always come along, even if that deal does not exist today. When you think that a great deal is passing you by, don’t be nervous, because there is another one coming. Sad as it is, someone will pass away tomorrow and their relatives will need to sell the house. Someone will become divorced and be willing to do anything just to get out of their investment. Someone will like you enough to make a deal. Someone will need to be relocating for work and might only have two weeks to find a buyer. Someone will . . . well, you get the point. Houses grow on trees. The marketplace creates an infinite number of them and they are constantly ripening.

  If anything, boats grow more quickly than houses. They are luxury items for most people—although not us. When finances get difficult for boat owners, they sell their luxury items in order to preserve the more essential elements of their life. When an owner sells, he frees himself not only of boat payments, but of the obligation to pay for insurance, storage, engine maintenance, winterizing, hauls, washing, paint, and so on.

  Even more significant is the incredible amount of competition to sell boats, which drives costs down. In the old days, before the Internet was so prominent, a boat buyer was locked into the information provided to them by brokers and dealers located in the buyer’s geographic area. This information may or may not have been true, and a boat buyer, unlike a real estate purchaser, had no access to “competitive” or “comparative” similar sales. These days a boat buyer has access to lots of very relevant information. For instance, we know the asking price of every other similar boat in the country (and much of the world), and we know how much similar boats have already sold for. Boat brokers and owners price their boats with all of this in mind. You can get this information, commonly available to boat brokers through Internet websites and service providers.

  So be patient, my liveaboard brothers and sisters. Relax and enjoy the ride. Don’t panic. A better boat is right around the corner. If you remember that, and learn to believe it, this process will be less stressful and more fun; you will be a much better negotiator knowing that you can walk away and still have terrific options. And
you will be more emotionally willing to take the time necessary to choose for yourself the best possible boat.

  Including and Excluding Boats

  To narrow down your choice, you will need to both include boats and exclude boats. These are not mutually exclusive ideas; a prospective buyer should employ both methods to find the perfect boat.

  Establish prerequisites for the perfect boat (such as a specific beam, headroom, number of staterooms, sail or power, etc.), as well as specific things that you do not want for your boat (such as boats that do not meet the above criteria, are located in inconvenient geographic areas, have been used for chartering, and so on).

  There is one important word of warning (there will be many more, but let’s start here): When you decide which boats to include and exclude, try not to focus on “accessories.” Good accessories do not make a good boat. A good boat is a good boat whether or not it has a good radar system. Unfortunately, a bad boat does not become anything other than a bad boat just because it has a $2,000 chartplotter. A pile of poop, when placed in a basket of flowers, is still a pile of poop. Don’t buy yourself a pile of poop and some flowers.

  Many boat buyers, primarily novice ones, will create a spreadsheet of their “needs,” which might include lists of “dream” accessories. Example: “I need a windlass, chartplotter, lazy jacks, radar, watermaker, and so forth.” If you find a boat with all this gear, will it be a good boat? Who knows? Will it be a better boat because it has all this gear? No. Could it be a bad boat? Yes.

  It is very important that you focus first on choosing the right boat. Don’t exclude a boat because it does not have all of your dream equipment. Narrow down your choices based on the factors that can’t be changed, rather than the accessories, which can. Your life and well-being depend on the condition of the hull and deck and seacocks and through-hulls; the condition of your engine is far more critical to a boat’s resale value than almost anything else. The condition of the electric wires, overall plumbing, and septic system is unbelievably important, and having to replace one of these systems can take a significant number of hours and cost quite a bit of money. Pay attention to what is important, and expect the boat’s owner to have either done the same or discounted the boat accordingly (many boaters expect to expend approximately 10 percent of a boat’s value on maintenance on average each year). Be particularly wary of safety issues, as a fire on a boat can be far worse than a fire in a house. Remember, it’s a boat and a boat first, even though having a watermaker might seem like the coolest thing.