Automotive Bodywork and Rust Repair
Page 25
lurk on metal, under coatings.
great work. Of course, small mis-
If you used no filler, or used it
As I said, if your basic approach
steps can ruin a job, but it usually
very sparingly and in very minor
was right, and you supported that by
takes more than a single slipup to
thicknesses, you have a definite ben-
getting all, or an overwhelming
botch everything.
efit. If you used lead filler, and were
majority, of the pertinent tasks and
If you bumped or fabricated metal
careful to neutralize all traces of flux
details of your work right, it should
to very good approximations of final
and tallow residues as you went
rank at or near the highest possible
shapes, leaving little for filler to fill,
along, that is a big plus. If you used
grade. It should look good and last
this helps. If you attended to shrinks
plastic filler and were careful to thor-
long, and that is a substantial accom-
and stretches in the metal, as you
oughly mix its components, individ-
plishment, one in which you should
formed it into correct shapes, you are
ually and with each other in correct
take considerable pride.
a long way toward making its final
proportions, that removes two more
format stable. If you avoided putting
possibilities of failure at a later date.
The Danger from Behind
stress into the metal by forcing it
Whichever kind of filler you
harshly into position, and then weld-
used, if you were meticulously care-
There is one more critical detail
ing it there, this helps some more. It
ful to sand out all file marks, and
that accompanies the completion of
is okay to slightly fine tune an edge
then to use abrasives with escalating
metal work, before you paint it your-
with a small screwdriver, persuading
grit numbers to erase all deep
self or turn it over to the paint guys.
it into perfect position for welding.
scratches left by previous and coarser
It is the consideration of protecting
However, if you made things line up
grits, until you had produced a sur-
the back side of your work from
with pry bars and 2-pound hammers,
face free of visible individual
attack by moisture and the corrosion
that will invite big problems, later.
scratches, you have won the battle
that inevitably follows prolonged
If your metal finishing achieved
against sand-scratch swelling in the
contact with moisture. If your work
perfect contours, as revealed by care-
finish that will cover your work. If
fails at some future date, due to cor-
ful visual and tactile inspections, the
your last sanding was with an abra-
rosion, it may be difficult to deter-
odds in favor of it turning out
sive that left both metal and filler
mine the source(s) of that failure.
between very well and perfectly are
surfaces with good tooth for primer
Perforation rust can originate on
increased. If you made your filler
adhesion, you have headed off
either side of a panel. When you do
application over metal that was com-
another potential issue that can
great metal work, protecting the
pletely cleansed of all traces of rust
plague metal work. If you cleaned
back sides of your panels makes great
and other contamination, you have
your finished surface with solvent,
sense. It won’t happen unless you do
another considerable advantage.
and then blew off all loose debris
it or pay to have it done.
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
111
CHAPTE R 11
ings hopelessly contaminated with
what was supposed to be kept out
and, due to their seal designs, all but
impossible to relubricate? You have
to be vigilant to avoid creating your
own versions of these counterpro-
ductive situations. Providing for fac-
tors like drainage, venting, and
cleaning access usually helps.
Consider the sealing systems that
wipe against and seal car door win-
dows. They are designed to keep water
from seeping into doors, as windows
are lowered, and rusting them out at
vulnerable seams. Those vehicle door-
The bolting flange at the bottom of this front fender is problematical because
window seals keep most of the water
it traps moisture and dirt. Aside from keeping it clean, the best in-service
that could enter that way from leaking
protective measure is to coat it with a strongly bonded, dense paint, followed
into doors. Unfortunately, they also
by a good rust-proofing agent.
help to seal in the moisture that does
get past them and that arrives from
Your first chance to deal with
quences, a variant of Murphy’s Law.
other sources. Then, when the sun
potential corrosion is when you
My favorite formulation of Mr. Mur-
beats down on the outsides of these
design a sheetmetal structure, or work
phy’s dictum is the statement that
doors, with the potential to heat their
on one that has obvious problems in
“nature always sides with the hidden
cavities, evaporate the moisture there,
this area. In the main, areas that trap
defect.” When dealing with corrosion
and drive it out, those same wiper seals
water or, worse, water and dirt, and
prevention in sheetmetal structures,
help to prevent this desirable outcome
hold them against metal are places
you have to identify all hidden defects
from occurring. The holes and vents in
where corrosion is likely to begin and
and take countermeasures to over-
door bottoms that are designed to let
increase rapidly. Dirt tends to absorb
come them. Then, you have to make
water out often foul with dirt and
water, and hold moisture against
sure that none of your countermea-
debris, blocking its exit. Over the years,
metal, long after just water would
sures created new hidden defects
a few automotive body cavities have
have left the scene due to evapora-
along the way. If this happened, you
been fitted with vents designed to
tion, passing air, or by the momen-
have to take countermeasures against
work on the Bernoulli principle—to
tum generated by vehicle movement. the flaws in your countermeasures.
use passing air to create a low-pressure
One major corrective step that
For example, tak
e the matter of
situation to extract water from their
you can take is to avoid designing
sealing structures from the intrusion
insides. This works until some small
structures with moisture traps that
of moisture. Consider something like
bit of debris changes their configura-
hold water, and small openings that
a headlight module system in failure,
tion, and then becomes useless.
can use capillary action to draw
with fog coating the inside of its
In many situations, keeping
moisture into narrow spaces. If you
lens. It was designed to keep mois-
moisture away from metal is a very
can imagine some of its features
ture out but the design not only let
tricky proposition. I don’t care if
acquiring and/or trapping water
moisture get in, it actually trapped it
they say that something difficult is
when you look at a structure, you
there by preventing its exit. That is
like making water run uphill. Take
should try to prevent this from hap-
why it remains there. Another exam-
my word for it, water will run up hill
pening or to figure out a reliable way
ple is the seals on some bearings.
enthusiastically, when it senses that
to cause them to drain.
They were designed to keep lubricant
it can find something to rust by
At this point, you can very easily
in, and dirt and moisture out. How
going there. Okay—I haven’t actu-
run into the law of unintended conse-
many times have you seen such bear-
ally seen this happen.
112
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
B E FOR E YOU PAI NT
Failed anti-corrosion designs and
priate for finishing vehicle topsides, it
features are not hard to find. They
is ideal for protecting their undersides.
are all around us. Just check out any
It clings to properly prepared metal
junkyard.
tenaciously, blocks the transit of mois-
Still, you shouldn’t be over-
ture, and remains resilient for decades
whelmed by the odds against taking
after it is applied. This means that it is
perfectly effective action to prevent
unlikely to crack under the assault of
rust from mortally attacking your
flying gravel and other things kicked
sheetmetal work someday. Just try to
up by vehicle wheels.
put that day off for a century or so.
Seam sealer is a terrific way to pro-
After you have completely sealed
You have a big, last chance to make
tect vulnerable joints, such as this
the back side of your metal work, go
your final moves just before your pro-
door skin joint, if it is applied over
for some extra insurance. Remember,
ject is painted. Later, you may have a
scrupulously clean metal and in a
anyone who wears both a belt and
few more chances to inspect, detect,
reasonable thickness. It is also
suspenders is unlikely ever to suffer
and correct problems, but remember
possible to abuse seam sealer
the embarrassment of lower wardrobe
that corrosion looks for ways—24/7
applications in ways that cause them
failure. The extra insurance is to coat
and holidays—to destroy your work.
to do as much harm as good.
the painted underside of your work
with a flexible and resilient corrosion-
What You Can Do
The third line of defense is seal-
protection agent. This could be a hot-
The good news is that there are
ing and coating the unseen sides of
sprayed, paraffin-based rustproofer
things that you can do. First and
your work. It starts with removing all
that contains anti-corrosion addi-
foremost, you can try to keep water
traces of paint, rust, grease, and oil
tives, or a rubberized undercoating.
from seeping in. This means design-
from the back sides of your metal
Finally, you should check these
ing seams and joints that are, and
work. After that, apply a good seam
measures, after their applications
remain, tightly sealed against mois-
sealer, particularly to the back sides
have settled, to make sure that there
ture. But that is not enough because
of lap and offset lap joints. Body
are no gaps or other flaws in them.
moisture is pernicious; it can enter
caulk should be used in areas that are
For example, be sure that you applied
areas in airborne form, and condense
too wide open for seam sealers to
the undercoating consistently. And
into liquid. Even in airborne form, it
fully close them. Back side metal
can start and promote corrosion,
should be coated with a waterproof
without ever becoming a liquid.
and very dense (in the molecular
Keeping water out is a noble aim,
sense) coating like moisture-cure ure-
and should be pursued. But do so with
thane. Applied to steel, moisture-
the certain knowledge that your suc-
cure urethane aggressively draws
cess with it will be partial at best. With
water molecules from both of its sur-
that in mind, there is a second line of
faces, the one exposed to the envi-
defense that you can pursue. If the
ronment and the one facing metal.
structure that you wish to protect is
That means that it removes all mois-
one that you designed, you can elimi-
ture from what is under it—a consid-
nate obvious water traps like shelves
erable advantage in fighting rust.
Hot paraffin-based rust-poofing
and other enclosures. You may
The molecular structure of a mois-
material is great for protecting most
include drains for areas that might
ture-cure urethane coating is so dense
undercarriage surfaces, where the
otherwise possibly trap water. You can
that even the relatively small, freneti-
impact of gravel and stones is not a
vent potentially vulnerable areas, so
cally active H2O molecule has great
problem. Where it is, a good
that moisture has a chance to escape,
difficulty penetrating it. While mois-
rubberized undercoating works best.
or is extracted from them. You can
ture-cure urethane’s surface character-
The coatings shown here are applied
make your vents and drains large
istics, and its lack of robust resistance
with the air sputter gun, shown in the
enough to not plug up with debris.
to ultraviolet light, make it inappro-
can on t
he left.
AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
113
CHAPTE R 11
be sure that it didn’t flow downward,
Accord in for rustproofing that day.
that Honda’s designers and engineers
potentially creating gaps, and possi-
He walked me over to it, drilled an
had not. Within a few years, almost
bly clogging or blocking critical
access hole in its right front fender
every early Accord that one saw in
drains and/or vents.
door-jamb-facing
surface,
and
northern climates was either rusting
With all of those measures, you
inserted his undercoating wand
about its fender tops, or sporting
may still fail to provide your work
through the hole. He told me to
replaced fenders. Honda even offered
with perfect, or even adequate, protec-
watch the metal on the top of the
replacement fenders for little or
tion against rust. This is true for both
fender, near the cowl and hood, as he
nothing, if the customer would pay
custom work and for modifications
shot undercoating at it. Then, he trig-
for installation and painting. This
that you may make to improve the
gered his spray wand and withdrew it
offer was kept open for a long time
corrosion resistance in existing vehicle
through the drilled hole, spraying
after the original warranties on these
designs. Sadly, in the end, rust always
high-pressure, hot paraffin under-
cars had expired.
triumphs. The real issue is what we
coating from its nozzle at the fender
I tell this story to make several
can do to deny it that victory for the
top’s underside. As I watched, I saw
points. Honda had very good body
longest possible time. If we gain some
the metal in the fender’s top deflect
engineering in that period, but failed
valuable time against the rust enemy,
slightly, from the pressure of the
to foresee this problem with the
that alone is worth celebrating.
undercoating hitting its other side.
Accord. Ignorance of the North Amer-
What I have written on this topic
“Wow,” was all that I could say.
ican climate and of salt use here prob-
indicates how tricky rust prevention
My friend agreed, and noted that he
ably contributed to creating this
problems can be, and how carefully
had never seen anything like it.
design flaw. Besides, these kinds of
you have to develop and deploy your