Automotive Bodywork and Rust Repair
Page 28
happen, and the only productive
thing to do about them is to solve
the problems that they bring and to
move on, resolving to learn from
them and to avoid them in the
This is the underside of the weld. It isn’t pretty, but it will never be seen.
9
future. In this case, the correction
A little time spent leveling the area improves its appearance. Then, it will
was relatively simple.
have to be protected from corrosion.
Grinding the Weld Beads and Shrinking the Bulged Area
While the underside of this weld
accept paint uniformly, and that no
Next we attended to correcting
will not be visible in use, it is an issue
features that could trap water and
the bulge that the welding had cre-
of craftsmanship to give it a neat
debris were left there to initiate or to
ated in the short patch and fender
appearance. On fenders configured
encourage corrosion.
metal. A couple of applications of
with their undersides more visible in
this area, a more finished appearance
Leveling was
1
would be mandatory. Here, the issue
accomplished with
is one of choice—how far do you
a 4-inch air disc grinder.
want to take the job? We opted for a
Its small size and consid-
neat but not-so-finished appearance.
erable speed make it
Our priorities were to leave the
ideal for this job. It is easy
underside of the repair area clean
to maneuver, and small
and sound for coating with various
enough to work around
anti-corrosion treatments like etch-
intricate features, without
ing primer, resilient paint, and
accidentally grinding
undercoating. It was important that
them.
the area be left smooth enough to
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AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
M I NOR R UST R E PAI R TO A F E N DE R E D G E
After grinding, and some other abrasive stripping work, the underside of
2
the welded area is ready for anti-corrosion treatments. Unseen areas,
like this one, do not require much finishing and remain stronger if they are not
Excessive heat in the over-
3
leveled too extensively.
welded area created a bulge in
the patch and fender metal. This area
was brought to cherry red with an
oxy-acetylene torch, and hammered
down in two operations that shrunk
the metal, and relieved the bulge.
shrinking technique resolved the
bulge problem completely.
The shrinking technique, in this
case, involved heating the most dis-
torted part of the bulge with an oxy-
While the metal in the bulged
A final step in the shrinking
acetylene torch to a temperature
4
5
area was still hot, it was
process was to quench the
between dull and cherry red. The
worked with a hammer-off-dolly
heated area with a wet sponge. This
area heated this way was a little
technique to push the bulge farther
produced controlled shrinking action.
larger than 1 inch in diameter. This
down and to raise sunken areas
Knowing exactly when and where to
caused further local bulging. The
around it. A low-crown hammer was
apply the quenching action requires
torch was then safely stowed, and
used.
some experience with this procedure.
the heated, bulged area was ham-
mered down without any backing.
This created an upset, literally a com-
pacting of metal in a small area that
exchanges lateral dimension for a
locally thickened panel area.
The second shrinking operation
was performed at a lower heat (dull
red) and over a slightly wider area.
A check with a straightedge
6
indicated that the shrinking
operation was successful, and that
the metal in the formerly bulged area
was now within the range required
for a good final result.
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CHAPTE R 12
A little bowing in one area of
7
the outer edges of the long
repair patch needed to be shrunk.
That area was heated to dull red with
an oxy-acetylene torch.
This time, the hammering was done
off-dolly, and the dolly rebound
under the fender was used to raise
some sunken metal around the
bulge.
In this application, the metal in
After heating, the
the formerly bulged area was
8
bowed area was
quenched with a wet sponge to
hammered down, off-
enhance and control the extent of
dolly, to upset the
the shrinking. The area was checked
metal there. That
with a straightedge.
means exchanging
Measuring indicated that the
some of its lateral
bulge had been completely elimi-
dimension for
nated, and that the area now had
thickness, which
the correct shape. Some distortion
amounts to compact-
in the fender-edge repair patch
ing, or shrinking, its
metal was now removed by heating
surface area.
and hammering that area, gently,
off-dolly.
Final Steps before Filling
The weld beads were now leveled
visible corrosion was removed. This
to the fender by grinding, disc sand-
operation was left until now because
ing, and filing them almost level
welding tends to create scale and
with the surrounding metal. In the
debris that have to be removed
battle to level welds, it is fair to use
before filling. Final cleaning after
any tool or device that helps do the
welding is the best approach, since
job. In this case, we even used a rat-
removing every trace of contamina-
tail file and a die grinder.
tion from the entire area before
After leveling the weld beads, the
welding it would be a waste of time;
surface was inspected. No low or
it would just have to be done again.
high spots were found that were
The nylon disc-stripping wheel is
beyond the range of modest filling
a particularly useful tool for getting
and filing. A few low areas were
into the surface intricacies of metal
raised slightly with a pick hammer,
and removing lightly pitted contam-
completing the metal finishing of
ination
from
&
nbsp; them.
Following
Various grinding and disc
1
the repair area.
mechanical cleaning, the repair area
sanding procedures were then
The topside of the repair area was
was wiped down with solvent and
applied to the surfaces in the repair
now
completely
cleaned
and
blown dry. This was repeated until
area to clean, level, and prepare them
stripped to bare, healthy metal. All
the wiping rags came up clean.
for the next step: filling with body lead.
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AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
M I NOR R UST R E PAI R TO A F E N DE R E D G E
Final leveling of some of the welds, in some areas,
A high-speed, air-driven, right-angle die grinder was
2
3
required a variety of approaches. Good, old
particularly helpful for leveling some weld areas like
fashioned filing with a rat-tail file is very useful for some
the one shown here. This tool cuts quickly and accurately,
of this work.
and is easy to control.
At this
4
point, it was
important to clean
the entire repair
area for the next
steps, tinning and
leading. Rotary
and hand wire
brushes, and other
devices, sped this
job, as did the
Before moving on to the next
5
grinder-mounted
step (tinning), the entire repair
nylon/carbide
area was wiped down with solvent,
wheel, shown here.
and blown clean and dry. This
procedure removed abrasive and
chemical residues from the surface.
Tinning
We decided to fill the repair area
Tinning
1
with body lead to correct any low
compound
spots, and to allow us to file the sur-
was dripped onto
face to exactly the contours that
torch-heated
would make the repair area indistin-
metal in the repair
guishable from the rest of the fender.
area. The heat
The first step was to tin the area
was supplied by
to be leaded. It was pre-heated with
an air-acetylene
an air-acetylene torch to about 300
torch, and held to
degrees F. Tinning solution was then
roughly 300 to
dripped onto it from a plastic squeeze
350 degrees F. The air-acetylene torch produces much milder heat than the
container. At these temperatures,
oxy-acetylene torch, previously used for the shrinking operations.
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CHAPTE R 12
The tinning compound was brushed around on the
The 50/50 (tin/lead) solder was then unspooled
2
3
hot metal with an acid brush, while more heat was
from a coil and melted onto the surface. The torch
applied to it. A visible, brown residue formed on the metal.
was played over the area to keep the base metal hot
This was a good indication that the tinning compound is
enough for the solder to melt and flow onto it.
doing its cleaning job.
tinning solution chemically cleans
spread it evenly across the surface.
base metal, preparing it to accept and
During this operation, the air-acety-
adhere to tinning solder. As the tin-
lene flame was played on the surface
ning solution hit the panel metal, it
to keep it hot enough to maintain
sizzled on the hot surface, leaving a
the solder in its liquid form.
brownish film. That is the proper
A few spots that resisted the sol-
appearance for the application of this
der’s flow and adhesion received
product.
small additional applications of tin-
While in a liquid state, the
4
Next, 50/50 (tin/lead) solder was
ning flux. Then, the solder was
solder was spread on the metal
uncoiled from a spool and run onto
brushed into them with a small
surface with a rag. The tinning solder
the metal’s surface, as the air-
stainless-steel-bristled brush. This
must fully cover the metal. However,
acetylene flame was played over it to
worked, completing the tinning
rubbing it too hard with the rag may
keep it hot. After sufficient solder
process. The whole area to be leaded
wipe it away completely, resulting in
had been deposited on the entire
was now covered with a uniform
spotty bonding of the lead filler
area to be tinned, a rag was used to
coating of tinning solder.
material.
Applying the Lead Filler
The most outstanding character-
Lead from a
1
istic of autobody lead—the one that
30/70 body
makes it ideal for filling depressions
solder bar was then
in metal work, while providing a
stubbed onto the
medium for filing contours—is that
tinned surface. The
it is a metal applied to a metal. With
end of the bar, and the
correct
application,
the
bond
metal around it, were
achieved with the metal substrate is
heated until the lead
unequalled by that of any other type
started to soften. Then,
of filler. However, paddling lead
a lead stub was
onto a properly tinned surface is
twisted off the heated
about as difficult as making water
end of the bar, and
run uphill.
onto the panel surface.
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AUTOMOTIVE BODY WOR K AN D R UST R E PAI R
M I NOR R UST R E PAI R TO A F E N DE R E D G E
The lead
2
was
softened to a
plastic, bubble
gum-like,
consistency with
the end of the
torch flame, and
spread on the
repair area
surface with a
lubricated maple paddle. The lead application must be as even as possible,
and generous enough to allow filing it to final contours.
Our first step was to stub a 30/70
putty knife. While the filler looks
(tin/lead) body solder bar onto the
somewhat rough, it was easy to file it
tinned surface. This was done by
into a smooth and accurate surface.
heating the end of the body solder
At this point, we killed the lead.
bar, while playing the end of the air-
That term describes neutralizing
acetylene flame over it and the
chemica
l residues from the flux used
tinned surface. The lead material has
in tinning, and from the lubricant
a plastic state at between 100 and
used to keep the maple leading pad-
150 degrees F, depending on its com-
dle from sticking to the lead. While
position. In this peanut-butter-like
the killing process will be repeated on
state, it can be twisted off in short
the panel after it is filed to its final
These two photographs show
3
stubs, onto the tinned surface.
format, as the last step in leading, it is
the repair area surface after
After
enough
stubs
were
also critical to do this before any fil-
the lead application was complete.
deposited, we spread them into a con-
ing is done. Otherwise, residues will
The apparent roughness of the
sistent layer of filler with a lubricated
be filed into the lead and it will be
surface is not a problem, because
maple paddle, much as you might
difficult, or impossible, to fully neu-
body lead is a soft material and files
spread peanut butter with a small
tralize the finished surface.
easily into desired contours.
The panel surface was wiped as clean as
4
possible, and treated with metal conditioner. This
After the metal conditioner had reacted with the
5
step was repeated after filing and sanding were
metal in the repair area for a few minutes, it was
completed, but it is important to do it at this stage, to
wiped off. This step, and its repetition when the surface is
avoid filing contaminants into the filler, making them
completely contoured, prevents the loss of paint adhesion
harder to remove later.
that can occur if these steps are omitted.
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CHAPTE R 12
Shaping the Lead and Finishing the Job
Filing lead filler is not very dif-
ous. Some filing was solely in the
what soft rubber backings behind
ferent from grating and shaping plas-
lead filler material. In other areas of
the abrasive paper, and tend to fur-
tic filler, except that different tools
the repair, lead and steel panels were
ther average and blend the surfaces
are used to do it and the shaping
filed and blended into a continuous
on which they are used. Paint sticks,
operation feels very different. We
surface. Care was taken not to file
wrapped in abrasive paper and with-
began shaping the lead with a bull-