Headspring Volume 1
Page 6
The first wave was solid, but she was too far out to pick it up so she stroked over the top and waited. Her heart beat in her ears like a drum. The second and third were the same but the next one loomed larger. It blacked out her horizon. She knew it was her turn to go. She had forced herself into this position by paddling deeper inside. She was obligated. She turned her back to the oncoming wave and paddled forward to pick up speed.
Stan was dead. She knew he was dead without Nicko having to explain. The blinds were drawn. The spotlight was off. A life was gone. She dug in two more big strokes until she could feel the might of the wave carry her forward. She looked down into the dark pit below her. Pushing the board forcefully underneath her, she sprang to her feet and began to drop down the vertical face of the wave.
About the Author
Mark Smith is a writer, surfer and teacher living on the West Coast of Victoria. His fiction revolves around the sea and people's interaction with it. His obvious influence is Tim Winton – particularly his depictions of the coast and the thrill and danger involved in surfing big waves – and is also influenced by Favel Parret and John Banville. Mark has been writing for a number of years, mostly fiction but also creative non-fiction.
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Credits and Contact Information
The Headspring Press Team - Kate Krake. Katharine Stubbs. Adam Hennessy. Kate Rees. Tracy Hudson. Natalie Ward. Gabrielle Ryan.
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