Personal Recollections of Sherman's Campaigns in Georgia and the Carolinas
Page 45
MOUNT VERNON.
In our journey from Richmond to Washington, we passed that spot dear to American hearts, the Mecca of the New World, Mount Vernon! The scenery around it is splendid. The face of the country is not that of a dead level, but interspersed with hills and valleys, abounding in fine springs and babbling brooks that come dashing down from the mountains with clear and sparkling water. This is a neighborhood rich in historical associations. Here are the ruins of the old church where it is said the great patriot was in the habit of worshipping. Patriotism, which consecrates whatever it touches, induced me to pay a visit to Mount Vernon, the depository of the remains of Washington.
I love to contemplate these hoary fragments of the great and good of other days, whatever flings the mind forward to futurity, or makes it revert to the deeds of days of other years, improves at once the understanding and the heart. That man, says, Johnson is not much to be envied for his stoicism, whose patriotism would not be warmed on the field of Marathon, or his piety exalted and inflamed around the ruins of Iona. We approached the once beautiful seat, but now quiet resting place of the immortal Washington, with a doubly distilled mixture of enthusiasm and patriotic devotion! We reached the hallowed site, near the close of day — the evening was beautiful, benignant, brilliant! There was a rippling red sky resembling the purest gold! A Union sun, just on the eve of betting; smoke ascending in an undulating direction from the houses on the Maryland shore; the great dome of the Capitol hanging like a white cloud upon the horizon; the shades of night gently approaching. A glimpse of the pale moon, that emblem of beauty, and glorious lamp of light, was beheld, as it were, watching the close of day to illuminate benighted worlds; and the Potomac itself appeared as if in the bottom of a bowl. A solemn stillness spread all around this magnificent scenery — every object gave an animation to the scene, of which no language can offer a proper description.
Mount Vernon is situated twenty miles from the Capital, and fifteen from the splendid city of Alexandria. The situation is that of calm, quiet, peaceful solitude, embowered by trees which harmonize with the surroundings, and add, by their shade, a degree of peculiar awe and repose to the scene.
The Washington mansion stands on an elevation probably an hundred feet above the level of the Potomac. The ascent from the water is steep. In the rear the ground is level and is adorned with extensive gardens. I have said that the mansion commands a charming view of the noble river, and of the city called after the illustrious dust which sleeps here. The Virginia side shows sad evidences of war and desolation, but the contending parties have refrained from this spot.
The house in which Washington lived and died, is constructed of framework, whose interstices are filled with bricks. The outward covering is of flags, concealed in such a manner as to give it, at a little distance, the appearance of being made of hewn stone. The length of the edifice is one hundred feet, and its depth fifty. There are, however, two semi-circular chains of offices which project from each of its ends towards the rear, something in the form of sweeping galleries. Towards the east (the river front) there is a colonnade which supports a roof that is continued from the main edifice. Though the pillars are very simple, the effect of a colonnade, so lofty and so long, is rather striking, and, on the whole, it leaves an impression that the house was one not altogether unworthy of its simple but illustrious possessor.
The interior of the building, though exceedingly irregular, affords many objects of gratification. The apartment of greatest curiosity was the drawing room, wainscoted throughout, elaborately carved in compartments. The entire wainscoting is highly varnished, and has acquired a singular but striking effect from a blackness of tint, which causes the apartments to appear like a vast cabinet of ebony. The most of the furniture was plain and simple, corresponding to the times of the hero. I looked on every object with considerable emotion.
The house remains precisely as it was four years ago. The same table and blank book for registering the names of visitors stands in the hall, with the key to the French Bastile, presented by Lafayette to Washington, hanging over them in its little glass case, and specimens of wood and minerals above the doors. The agent, with his wife and two or three children, occupy a suite of rooms on the left of the hall, and a few Negroes inhabit the kitchen. In the dining-hall are three of Washington's dining-tables, an old, feeble-toted harpsichord, and the tripod and compass with which their illustrious owner surveyed the wilderness of Lord Fairfax's estate.
The stucco of the ceiling, representing flowers and sheaves of wheat, is in as good condition as could be expected, and with a little early attention can be preserved for many years. In the east parlor is a sofa, a rocking chair, and in the west parlor a terrestrial globe, and a dim old sketch of a scene before Carthage.
In the library is the original plaster cast of Washington, by Houdon, and a cast of Lafayette. The few books are all of modern production and belong to the inmates of the house, with the exception of a gray old 'volume entitled "An Essay on Fortifications,' with “George Washington" on the fly leaf. With the book, is a letter, dated 1798, to Rev. Mr Fairfax. Upstairs in the southwest corner of the mansion is the room in which Washington died. A fac-simile of the bed upon which he breathed his last stands in the corner, and is the only furniture in the apartment. On the iron back of the fire-place are deeply cut the letters “Gr. W." Throughout the mansion there reigns an oppressive silence, broken only by the echo of footsteps on the bare floor; and looking from the dim, time-stained rooms out upon the deserted fields and unbroken surface of the river, a feeling of loneliness comes over one which no effort can shake off.
Without, the graveled drive is as smooth and clean as when the carriages of the most lordly rolled up to the hospitable mansion, and the lawns stretch down towards their border of trees carpeted with the richest verdure. The flower garden is filled with the choicest plants, many of which are in full bloom, loading the air with fragrance. The tomb, so often described remains untouched. A lonely “Phoebe” bird had built against the wall inside, and with its plantive monotonous call is the only thing to break the dead silence of the spot. It is a subject for congratulation that so little expense is required to put the premises in as complete order for the reception of visitors as before the war. The fences need some repairs, the shrubbery requires trimming, and a few vacant places in the flower garden might be filled with plants, but beyond this, little remains to be done. The landing place is in perfect order, though the water has become rather shallow, but at high tide will no doubt be of sufficient depth to permit light draught steamers to land. It is understood that arrangements are now on foot for re-opening the mansion to visitors, and that in a short time excursion trips to this spot will be regularly made.
The vault stands at the brow of the declivity. It is very plain. The excavation in the earth is neither large nor deep. The monuments of the other members of the Washington family are modern and hand' some. Environed with a beautiful lawn, dotted with clumps of trees, gently sloping from a hill crowned with stately oaks and scattered firs. The scene was at once sweet and solemn. I have seen nothing to compare with it in character. In this sequestered spot the traveler sees not the stately mausoleum, nor the splendid bust, nor the sculptured cenotaph, but in simple elegance the lowly mound of him whom the world delights to honor. In a sarcophagus of white marble, pure as the spotless character of him whom it commemorates, repose the ashes of him whose memory is immortal. But a single word inscribed upon the stone tells a tale of fame and glory. It is the name of Washington.
A New England bard very beautifully and truthfully says:
“Why moans the white surge on Potomac's proud tide?
Why droop the green willows that grow by its side?
Why chant Nature's minstrels their numbers so slow,
Imparting their songs in whispers of woe?
Ah ! why sighs the tall grass o'er Vernon's green breast?
Why fades the rich splendor on victory's crest?
Wh
y is heard the deep sigh of the summer's bright close,
While the lily 's still blooming, and blushing the rose?
My country! thy Saviour— thy Washington brave
Lies cold in the earth, midst the gloom of the grave.
The arrow of death to his bosom hath sped;
He mingles with dust — with the dust of the dead.
The bright plume of valor that blaz'ned his worth
Lies prone upon Vernon, and hallows its earth.
But the boon of the blest to his spirit is given —
The tears of a world and the glory of Heaven."
SKETCH OF VIRGINIA.
This grand old State possesses great natural advantages. It abounds with minerals; it has a multitude of rivers; and the climate is on the whole healthy. The mountainous section is distinguished by bold scenery, and contains many grand works of Nature. Amongst the rivers, which are navigable, beside the Potomac, are the James, Rappahannock and Great Kanawha. Every portion of the State abounds in mineral wealth. The forests exhibit all sorts of lofty trees; the plains are swarmed with flowers and flowering shrubs of the richest colors and fragrant scent.
The soil of Virginia is naturally fertile, but in many of the old settlements they have been well-nigh exhausted through bad tillage. The staples are Indian corn, wheat, oats, tobacco. Iron ore is abundant, and of the finest quality. In the mountainous section many streams afford excellent water power. The State abounds in grand and splendid scenery; the passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, is, perhaps, one of the most stupendous scenes of Nature. The mountains of the Blue Ridge are thought to be of a greater height than any others in the United States. We might say with Cromwell, when struck with the beauty of Irish scenery : "Behold a land worth fighting for."
The first settlement within the present limits of Virginia was at Jamestown, in 1607, which was also the first permanent English settlement in America. On the approach of the Revolution, the eloquent statesmen of this State were among the first to raise their voices against oppression. Throughout that struggle, Virginia bore a most prominent part, and within its limits took place the surrender of Cornwallis.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Sherman's Army at Washington. — History of its organization. — Complete Roster of the Corps as they appeared on the Grand Review. — Brilliant Pageant — Sherman and his Generals.— The Farewell Addresses of Generals Sherman and Logan.
HEADQUARTERS MILITARY DIVISION OF THE MISS.
In the Field, Alexandria, Va.
May 20, 1865.
I. To make the review ordered for this army in the city of Washington, on Wednesday, May 24, the two wings, without knapsacks, and with two days' cooked rations in haversacks, will, during Tuesday, close well upon the Long Bridge, the right wing in advance. On Wednesday, at break of day, the troops will move out of bivouac by the right flank, and march until the head of the column is closed up to Capitol grounds, and then mass as close as possible east of the canal, ready to march according to Special Orders No. 219, Adjutant General's Office, May 19, by close columns of companies, right in front, guide left, by the route prescribed. When the companies fall below fifteen (15) files, the battalions will form column by divisions. At nine (9) o'clock, A. M., precisely, a single gun will be fired by the leading battery, when the head of column will march around the Capitol down Pennsylvania avenue, and pass the reviewing stand in front of the President' house, thence to the new camps or to a bivouac, according to the pleasure of the army commanders. All colors will be unfurled from the Capitol to a point beyond the President's reviewing stand. The General-in chief will ride at the head of the column, and take his post near the reviewing officer. The commanders of each army, corps, and division, attended by one staff officer, will dismount after passing the General-in-chief and join him while his army, corps, or division is passing, when he will remount and join his command. Officers commanding regiments and above, will present swords on passing the reviewing officer, but company officers will make no salutes. Brigade bands, or consolidated field music, will turn out and play as their brigade passes the reviewing officer, but will be careful to cease playing in time for the succeeding band to be heard. One band per division may play during the march from the Capitol to the Treasury Building. The colors of each battalion will salute by drooping in passing the reviewing officer; and the field music make three ruffles without interrupting the “march" of the band. Should intervals occur in the column, care will be taken that divisions pass the reviewing stand compactly, and if the passing of the bridge draws out the columns, the march will be continued with as little interruption as possible at full distance. Army commanders will make all subordinate arrangements as to guides, &c.
II. Army commanders may at once select new camps east of the Potomac; the right wing above Washington, and the left wing below; and make arrangements with the Quartermaster's Department to collect fuel, forage, &c, in advance, at their new camps, and may march thereto direct from the review, by routes that will not interrupt the progress of the columns behind. The wagon trains with camp equipage and knapsacks, can follow the day after review.
III. Mustering officers will see at once to the preparation of rolls for the pay and discharge of the organizations and men that are to be discharged under existing orders of the War Department, but no discharges will be made till after the review.
By order of
Major General W. T. SHERMAN.
L. M. Dayton, Major and A. A. G.
Official — Samuel L. Taggert, A. A. G.
THE GRAND REVIEW.
A more magnificent display of popular triumph and enthusiasm was never witnessed, than that which took place in Washington during the reviews of the Armies of the Union. Short as the time had been for preparation, the arrangements were in all respects complete. The weather was mild and pleasant; the streets of the Capital were alive with crowds, anxious to have their share in the transcendent popular triumph of the age. We never witnessed anything like the thorough delight and enthusiasm of the people. Their joy seemed to know no bounds. The sun shone out most auspiciously. Pennsylvania Avenue, and, indeed, all the streets leading thereto, were jammed. In front of Mr Seward's residence, a vast crowd assembled, awaiting with anxiety, the appearance of the great popular statesman, now more than ever endeared to his countrymen, as the victim of the fiendish conspiracy, which nearly terminated his life. As early as nine o'clock, the multitudes in all directions were momentarily increasing by fresh arrivals. In every street was to be heard the music of the different bands, proceeding to join the grand procession, whilst the crowd awaiting the passage of the troops, gave utterance to their joy in repeated acclamations. It was indeed a great public jubilee— the people seemed to feel that the victory of the Union was a signal triumph, and they rejoiced accordingly. The armies represented all branches and devices of the service — cavalry, artillery, and infantry, with a sufficient variety of equipments to relieve the general sameness of uniform. Sections of pontoon bridges, ambulances and even heavy wagons were features in the procession. The tastefully decorated stand, near the Executive mansion, was occupied by President Johnson, General Grant, and other distinguished officers. Another stand handsomely festooned with flowers and flags, was occupied by Hartmann, Bancroft, and the following Governors of States: Buckingham, Fairchild, Curtin and Bradford.
As Corps and Division commanders passed in review before the President and General Grant, those commanders severally left the column and took seats on the platform. General Logan rode at the head of his column; the greeting of this hero was in the highest degree enthusiastic. Next followed the Fifteenth and Seventeenth Corps, preceded by their commanders, Generals Hazen and Blair. The next in review was the army of General Slocum, — the Twentieth Corps, commanded by Mower, and the Fourteenth Corps, commanded by Jeff. C. Davis. The tramp of men, the clank of sabre, and the clatter of hoof, kept time on Washington street, from early dawn to sunset. It was a repetition of the scenes of the previous day —
another exhibition of the grand panorama of the homeward march of Sherman s valiant army. First came the bands, then Brigade and Division commanders; then came the Regiments with their bright arms and brighter banners. And still they came, until a spectator was prompted to exclaim with Macbeth: