The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
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Return the bacon and chicken to the skillet and add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Add the Peppadew peppers, cover and continue simmering until the chicken is cooked through, about 25 minutes longer.
Stir in the parsley and preserved lemon, drizzle with olive oil and serve.
BREEZE In Brittany, the mist that rises from the sea carries the scent of fennel and sorrel that grow wild on the region’s cliffs, delivering a salty, almost anise-like aroma. Course in texture, like grains of salt, Breeze N.5 was originally intended for seafood, but it’s found many more uses in breads and crackers and even in beer brewing. This blend of lemon, green tea and anise unites in unexpected ways, much like the ships from distant lands that have traveled from far-flung places to deliver the spices to the port of Saint-Malo for centuries.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Rub all over salmon fillets or another oily fish and let sit for 1 hour before broiling or grilling.
-2- Whisk Breeze with honey and sherry vinegar to taste to make a glaze for duck or pork.
-3- Stir into a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade.
Also great with
roast pork loin
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chicken breast
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pan-seared scallops
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radish salad
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yogurt dressing
Recipe from Susan Choi and Pete Wells, Brooklyn, New York
I’m always fascinated to hear what new dishes my spices are turning up in at the Choi-Wells home. Although she’s a novelist, Susan would agree that one of her biggest passions is food. My Breeze N.5 spice blend includes tea leaves, which add an herbaceous note that, along with citrusy lemon peel, complements both the fish and the fruit salad.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
4 swordfish steaks (about 6 ounces each)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the fish
2 tablespoons Breeze N.5 spice blend Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot
1⁄4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 medium heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1⁄2-inch wedges
2 plums (preferably Italian), pitted and cut into wedges
1 nectarine, pitted and cut into wedges 1⁄4 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 tablespoon thinly sliced basil
INSTRUCTIONS
Rub each piece of fish with olive oil. Season the fish with 1 tablespoon of Breeze spice blend and salt and pepper.
In a bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, 11⁄2 teaspoons of Breeze, the shallot and mustard; season with salt and pepper and set aside.
In a separate bowl, toss the tomatoes, plums, nectarine and red onion together. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the remaining 11⁄2 teaspoons of Breeze; season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
Prepare a hot grill or preheat a grill pan over high heat. Cook the swordfish for about 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through.
Add the basil to the tomato and fruit mixture and divide among 4 plates. Place the fish on top, drizzle the lemon dressing over the fish and serve.
MARRAKESH Capturing the sweet and savory profile of Moroccan cuisine, Marrakesh N.6 offers a layered experience similar to one a visitor might have in the buzzing spice souks of Marrakesh. In the beginning, you take it all in from afar, breathing in the scents of the open-air market and listening to the din of people bargaining over prices. Then you step closer to view pyramids of golden-yellow, burnt-red and olive-green spices lined up in crowded stalls. Finally, you settle into a food stall to watch as coarsely ground cumin, coriander seeds and cinnamon are sprinkled onto sizzling skewers of meat or stirred into couscous before tasting the flavors develop in an unforgettably fragrant meal. Just as with the experiences you peel away after a day in the souk, this blend reveals itself in time.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss with roasted or grated carrots and lemon juice for a salad.
-2- Add to ground turkey, form into patties and cook in a hot skillet.
-3- Whisk 1 tbsp Marrakesh with 1/2 cup olive oil and use to marinate lamb skewers before grilling.
Also great with
grilled skirt steak
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braised cod
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couscous with dried fruit
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roasted squash
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barley soup
Recipe from Bertrand Chemel, 2941 Restaurant, Falls Church, Virginia
In this recipe, the Marrakesh N.6 spice blend brings sweet and savory notes to the vegetables and honors the tradition of Moroccan cuisine. The coarse-ground spices add another layer of texture to the dish as well. The eggplant is treated like a protein and becomes a great accompaniment or side dish for lamb, chicken, grilled fish—or even a cheese plate.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS
6 plum tomatoes
3 long Chinese or Japanese eggplants or 2 medium globe eggplants (about 2 pounds)
11⁄3 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄4 cup honey
3 garlic cloves with skin, lightly crushed 3 rosemary sprigs
4 sprigs lemon thyme
6 sage leaves
3⁄4 cup sherry vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons Marrakesh N.6 spice blend
INSTRUCTIONS
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Cut a small X in the end of each tomato and drop them in the boiling water for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes from the boiling water and drain, then submerge them in the ice water until cool. Peel, core and seed the tomatoes, then cut them into 1⁄4-inch cubes.
Peel the eggplants, halve them lengthwise and cut each crosswise into 1-inch pieces.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the eggplant and sauté over medium-high heat until browned all over, about 7 minutes. Add the honey and cook over high heat, stirring, for 4 minutes. Stir in the crushed garlic and herbs. Deglaze the pan with the sherry vinegar, stirring up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the Marrakesh spice blend. Reduce the heat to medium- low and cook the eggplant, stirring frequently, until softened, about 6 to 7 minutes.
Transfer the eggplant to a plate and add the diced tomatoes to the skillet. Cook the tomatoes over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes. Discard the garlic and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Place the eggplant on a platter, pour the tomatoes and any accumulated liquid on top and serve.
PIERRE POIVRE Pierre Poivre N.7 is named for my idol. Poivre, whose name literally means “Peter Pepper,” was a Frenchman born in Lyon who contributed to the dissolution of the Dutch monopoly on the spice trade in the 18th century. In doing so, he single-handedly delivered clove, nutmeg and, later, pepper to the world. As a result, this eight-pepper blend of red, black, white and green varieties is not only about heat; it is also about introducing people to the diversity of peppercorns that grow across the globe. Tangy, sweet, sour and floral notes can be found in this blend, which can be used to season anything from wild game and grilled steaks to thick-cut vegetables. Just as Poivre opened our eyes and palettes to previously inaccessible flavors, he pushes me to introduce chefs and home cooks to the bounty of spices that exist everywhere.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Sprinkle on sliced pears and serve with blue cheese.
-2- Mix with fresh ricotta to taste and fold into warm fettuccine to make a pasta sauce.
-3- Add to reduced Cognac, melted butter and a little Dijon mustard for a quick ”au poivre” sauce.
Also great with
> mignonette for oysters
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chocolate chip cookies
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ceviche
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veal scallopine
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caesar salad
Recipe from David Malbequi, Prima, New York City
This is anything but your usual steak recipe. The complex Pierre Poivre N.7 spice blend used to crust the beef and flavor the mushroom sauce is proof that peppercorns can be floral, sweet, tangy and, yes, peppery all at once. It is also proof that all you need are a few great ingredients and the right seasoning to make a great dish. Once you’ve used this pepper blend, there’s no going back to the grinder.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced 1 cup thinly sliced shallots
5 thyme sprigs
2 garlic cloves, halved
1 pound chanterelle or button mushrooms—trimmed, cleaned and cut in half
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons Pierre Poivre N.7 spice blend
1⁄2 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup veal or beef stock
4 beef tenderloin steaks (5 to 6 ounces each)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil Coarse salt
8 ounces baby spinach
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
INSTRUCTIONS
In a large saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the shallots, thyme and garlic and cook, stirring, until the shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and 1 teaspoon of Pierre Poivre spice blend and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 4 minutes. Add the wine, bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add the chicken and veal stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Discard the thyme and garlic and strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer; reserve the mushrooms and shallots. Return the sauce to the pan and reduce by half. Stir in the reserved mushrooms and shallots and adjust the seasoning.
Season the steaks with salt and 1 tablespoon of Pierre Poivre. In a grill pan, heat the oil over high heat until lightly smoking. Cook the steak for about 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a plate, cover with a tent of foil and let rest for 3 to 4 minutes.
In a mixing bowl, toss the spinach with the red wine vinegar, a pinch of salt and the remaining Pierre Poivre. Divide the mushrooms among four plates and top with the steak. Sprinkle the steaks with salt. Pour any juices leftover from the rested meat over the spinach and toss. Divide the spinach among the plates and serve.
SMOKED SALT Growing up in Israel, I never heard of “kosher salt” until I came to America. To me, it was just salt. From that point forward, my research has revealed countless types of salt and their cultivation techniques. In Smoked Salt N.8, I use the flaky crystals of Maldon sea salt, which are harvested on England’s southern coast. With a delicate, mellow flavor that is anything but “salty,” Maldon offers an entirely different dimension than the salt you’ll find on most tables. To that, I add a layer of smoke so the blend conjures up the sensation of grilled meat or barbecue. With its large crystals, the blend is an excellent finishing salt and, to my surprise, has taken on a whole new identity in cocktails.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Sprinkle on baked potatoes with sour cream and scallions.
-2- Season thick tomato slices with Smoked Salt, drizzle with olive oil and serve with buratta cheese.
-3- Thinly slice button or porcini mushrooms, drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with Smoked Salt.
Also great with
steamed green beans
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salmon tartare
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poached eggs
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iceberg wedge
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grilled hanger steak
Recipe from Phil Ward, Mayahuel, New York City
Phil Ward is one of America’s best mixologists, and he helped me realize the great potential of my blends in cocktails. The intense aroma of my Smoked Salt N.8 spice blend is not the first thing you’d expect from a cocktail, but it echoes the smoky flavors of the mezcal and aged tequila. Combined with the jalapeño-infused tequila, it moves this cocktail well toward the savory category.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 1 DRINK
1 teaspoon Smoked Salt N.8 spice blend
3⁄4 ounce jalapeño-infused blanco tequila (recipe follows)
3⁄4 ounce reposado tequila 1⁄2 ounce mezcal
3⁄4 ounce simple syrup
3⁄4 ounce fresh lime juice
3 dashes Angostura bitters
Jalapeño-Infused Blanco Tequila
2 jalapeño peppers
1 cup blanco tequila
CINDER COCKTAIL
In a spice grinder or coffee mill, grind the Smoked Salt until fine.
Moisten the rim of a chilled cocktail glass and lightly coat it with the Smoked Salt.
In a cocktail shaker, combine the tequilas, mezcal, simple syrup, lime juice and bitters. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and shake hard until cold, at least 20 seconds. Strain into the prepared cocktail glass and serve.
Jalapeño-Infused Blanco Tequila
Cut the jalapeños in half, then cut out the seeds and white ribs. Transfer the ribs and seeds to a measuring cup and add the tequila (reserve the rest of the peppers for another use). Stir briefly to combine, then let the tequila sit at room temperature, tasting it every 30 minutes or so, until it reaches the desired spiciness (the tequila will take anywhere from 30 minutes to about 2 hours to infuse). Strain the tequila when ready to use.
IRIS I love inviting people to eat whole spices for the first time. It’s a proposition that’s not usually met with enthusiasm, but it always becomes an exciting new venture. Chewing whole aniseed or caraway seeds is an entirely different interaction with the spice: The added layer of texture it gives food allows people to taste it longer. Iris N.9 is inspired by the Pan Masala of Indian cuisine, a collection of whole spices, nuts and herbs (including fennel, areca nut, clove and menthol) that’s offered at the table after a meal to refresh your palate and aid digestion. Mixed with the nuttiness of toasted sesame seeds, Iris N.9 can be incorporated into many kinds of dishes, including salad dressings and sautéed vegetables, or used as a fragrant, crunchy crust for meat or bread.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss halved Persian cucumbers with Iris, salt and lemon juice for a quick snack.
-2- Whisk with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and serve as a dip for focaccia.
-3- Use to coat tuna steaks before searing in a hot pan.
Also great with
breaded chicken cutlets
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tempura shrimp
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baby spinach and feta salad
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vegetable couscous
* * *
sautéed zucchini
Recipe from Pam Anderson, author of Cook Without a Book: Meatless Meals
The coarse Iris N.9 spice blend is a great sprinkling blend and adds a lovely crunch to salads, yogurt and this healthy vegetable pizza. Leaving the spices whole also allows you to experience the various layers of flavors of the individual spices and the nuttiness of the toasted sesame seeds. It’s a fun new way to experience spices.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 MAIN-COURSE OR 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS
1 medium eggplant, trimmed and cut into 1-inch dice
1 large sweet onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
1 yellow bell pepper—stemmed, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice
2 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut into 1-inch dice
12 garlic cloves, thickly sliced 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Iris N.9 spice blend, plus extra for sprinkling
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (1 pint) cherry tomatoes, halved
1 pound store
-bought pizza dough
Cornmeal, for dusting
6 thin slices (about 6 ounces) provolone cheese, cut in half
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
In a large bowl, combine the eggplant, onion, pepper, zucchini and garlic. Add the olive oil and Iris spice blend and season with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Turn the vegetables onto a large rimmed baking sheet.