Survivalist Anthologies Volume 1

by George Shepherd

  Protecting Your Claim of Self-Defense

  One of the largest hurdles faced is the potential of self-incrimination: How does someone report that he practiced lethal self-defense without helping the State convict him of criminal homicide? This difficult subject draws the most heat when discussed by armed citizens. Essentially, the problem stems from the common misunderstanding that intentionally killing another person always constitutes murder. True, the intentional use of deadly force – absent a good justification -- will likely result in a conviction for first- or second-degree murder. Only at trial can the defendant press his claims of self-defense. In practical terms, this means that if the police respond to a shooting and see a dead body on the ground and a smoking gun in your hand, then they have all the evidence they need to arrest and convict you. Unless you can demonstrate that you acted in self-defense, you will be arrested for murder. You really don’t want to be arrested – but this is likely to happen if you take the advice of many Internet pundits and keep your mouth shut after an incident. Once police arrest you, their primary job will be to close the case as quickly as possible – which means convicting you, not digging for the truth of what happened.

  When the police arrive, you need to establish, quickly, clearly, and concisely, what happened. If there are several witnesses, we can hope they will truthfully explain to the police what they saw and heard, too. However, the police will also want to talk to you. What should you say? I advise you to follow this format.

  1) Explain that you were attacked. You likely already did this when you called 911, telling the police dispatcher that you were the victim of an attack, had to shoot to defend yourself, and asking them to dispatch an ambulance. The ambulance is important for two reasons. The first one is that the attacker might still be alive and need medical aid. Secondly, you may have been injured or the stress of the event might send you into cardiac arrest, if you are pre-disposed to heart problems. Calling for an ambulance also helps demonstrate your lack of criminal intent: After all, you would be trying to save the life of the person you were compelled to shoot.

  2) Make sure the police know that you were the victim of a criminal attack against you and that if the attacker lives, you want to prosecute. It is important for the police to investigate the crime which was perpetrated against you, as well as investigating the shooting.

  3) Point out any evidence and witnesses. It might be as obvious as saying something like “He attacked me with that knife, and she saw it,” while pointing at the guy’s girlfriend who was waiting in the car for him as he robbed you at knife point. Of course, the companion might not tell the truth -- but then again, she might. Evidence can also disappear, or the assailant may have ditched the weapon in the bushes prior to police arriving. Wouldn’t it be kind of nice for them to find the gun he was carrying during the robbery? Wouldn’t that kind of help validate your claim of self-defense?

  4) Finally, explain to the police officers that you will cooperate fully -- but that you will do so only in the presence of legal counsel. While the police may not like this, they will respect it, because it is exactly what they would do in your shoes.

  Following this advice might not keep you out of jail, but at least you will have started the police thinking of you as having been the victim of an assault, instead of being the suspect in a murder.

  About the author: Marty Hayes is President and founder of the Armed Citizens’ Legal Defense Network, LLC. (www.armedcitizensnetwork.org) a nationwide organization of armed citizens, attorneys, instructors and experts, dedicated to the protection and defense of lawfully armed citizens who use deadly force in self defense. He is a former police officer, law school graduate and experienced expert witness in murder, manslaughter and self-defense cases.

  Building Your Survival Arsenal on Budget

  by Ed Corcoran

  Most experienced “preppers” and survivalists are aware that a “survival arsenal” is an absolute necessity nobody can afford to overlook. This doesn’t mean building an armory, or starting a one-man militia. But possessing at least the basic firearms “trinity” – a handgun, rifle, and shotgun – is indispensable in order to be adequately prepared for self-defense and hunting both large and small game.

  Firearms are tools and there is no such thing as an “all-purpose” gun. Just as you wouldn’t try to hammer nails with a crescent wrench, or cut firewood with a hack-saw, you shouldn’t rely on any single firearm to cover all your survival needs. While it may be possible to hunt with a handgun, or defend yourself with a rifle, your chances of survival are much greater if you have the right tools for each job.

  However, in this economy, many preppers have a tough enough time trying to meet every-day expenses, let alone assembling food stores and acquiring essential survival gear. Guns can be pretty expensive, so it’s little wonder that a lot of people put off acquiring the firearms needed in order to be self-sufficient and well protected.

  Conversely, other preppers catch “gun fever” or GAS (Gun Acquisition Syndrome) and end up spending too much money on the latest or sexiest guns that they don’t really need. This can be both costly and dangerous: If you have invested thousands of dollars in high-end guns and ammo, but only have a case of beans and a couple of MREs stored in your pantry, you may want to reconsider your priorities.

  Fortunately, there are plenty of high-quality, low-cost options for preppers on a budget. It is easy to build a very respectable three-gun arsenal for around $600. No, your firearms probably won’t garner envious stares from anyone at the gun club or shooting range, and they won’t have any of the high-end (and largely unnecessary) bells and whistles, but they will meet the required needs of food procurement and protection for yourself and your family.

  The first place to look would be in used and military surplus markets. The military and local police departments frequently trade in significant quantities of firearms for newer models. Though they may be heavily used, these guns are by no means used up. While it’s true that guns that come from these institutions have most likely taken a beating, there should still be plenty of life left in them. Quality firearms are designed and built to last for generations.

  Furthermore, since all reputable gun shops want happy customers, most of them will make sure that their used inventory is brought up to optimal operating condition before being put up for sale. They may have dings, scratches and holster-wear, or may require minor adjustments here or there, but on the whole, they should be reliable and welcome additions to anyone’s arsenal.

  Some gun dealers may allow you to test-fire a used gun. Others may not, or don’t have the facilities to do so. If you’re a novice or a first-time gun buyer, the best bet is to bring a knowledgeable friend along who can check out the gun and identify any potential issues. Ideally, you should take some time beforehand to familiarize yourself with the gun you intend to buy. Many shooting ranges or gun clubs will have a variety of firearms available for rent. They may not have the exact brand or model that you’re looking to buy, but they should have something of a similar type/configuration/caliber. Not only will this give you a sense of how a firearm in optimal condition should feel and function, but it’s also an opportunity to try a variety of different guns to determine which ones you feel most comfortable with. Getting a good deal on a .357 Magnum will be worthless to you if you discover later that the gun is too heavy for you to wield effectively, or you can’t handle the recoil. So try out as many different types as you can before buying.

  Below are my recommendations for building a survival arsenal of high-quality, accurate and reliable firearms that you can buy without being forced to skip any meals. They may not be the prettiest or sexiest guns out there, but they’re all reliable workhorses. As they say: the ugly gun you own will protect you a lot better than the fancy one you’re saving up for.

  Shotgun

  There’s an awful lot of debate as to which type of firearm you should get first, as well as which is the “best” brand, model, caliber and config
uration in each category. Everyone has his own opinion, and none of them is more correct than any other. Ultimately, it really does come down to a matter of one’s personal preference and particular situation. Please bear this in mind, and don’t get upset if your favorite didn’t make the list, or if your opinion differs from mine.

  That being said, in my humble opinion, I think a 12-gauge shotgun is the best place to start building your arsenal. That’s not just because I really like shotguns, which I do, but also because they’re absolutely the most versatile of the trinity in terms of self-defense and food procurement (see Chance Sanders’ article on page 24). However, they do have some limitations, such as range and concealability. For accurate, high-velocity shooting over longer distances, a rifle is preferred. And you can’t exactly walk around with a shotgun concealed about your person (“Is that a Mossberg down your pants -- or are you just happy to see me?”). However, if I were in a SHTF situation and could only have one gun, I’d prefer it be a pump-action, 12-gauge shotgun with a shoulder stock. But that’s just me.

  You can easily find a good, used scattergun for $200 or less. Obviously, you’ll do better at staying within the $600 budget by buying used, but there are a few excellent affordable shotguns which can be had for short cash and won’t make you feel like you’re settling for less. Most notable among these are the Remington 870 Express(pictured 1st), Mossberg 500(pictured 2nd) and Winchester 1300(pictured 3rd)

  While these are all “inexpensive” guns (they each retail new for around $300), they are by no means “cheap.” Each of these particular shotguns is made to take a beating and should still be in service long after you and I have shuffled off this mortal coil. By way of illustration: The Mossberg 500 has the distinction of being the only shotgun to pass the U.S. Army’s grueling Mil-Spec 3443E endurance test. Each has a long history of loyal owners and debates continually rage over which one is “best.” In reality, they’re all pretty much identical, and the minor differences that distinguish them largely come down to personal preference (weight, location of the safety, etc.). A large variety of interchangeable barrels, chokes, upgrades and accessories is available for each. You really can’t go wrong with any one of them -- and if you can find one used, so much the better!

  Revolver

  I know some may disagree, but I recommend first getting a double-action revolver as a survival handgun. The reasons are basic reliability and simplicity. Sure, semi-automatic pistols can hold more rounds, are faster to load, and generally lighter and easier to conceal. But they’re also more complicated and high-maintenance -- prone to jams and feeding problems. They can also be finicky about the ammunition you use.

  In a survival situation, simplicity and predictability are at a premium: You need your gun to do only one thing when you pull the trigger, and that’s hurl hot lead at anyone who means to deprive you of life. With a revolver, you can count on that happening 99.9 percent of the time. And in the rare event the cartridge doesn’t fire, you can always pull the trigger again to cycle the cylinder to the next round. You can’t do that with a pistol. If your semi-auto jams, you might as well throw the gun at your attacker and hope you clock him on the head!

  Revolvers are easy to clean and maintain. They work well when dirty, they don’t care if they’re fed cheap ammo, and they hardly ever need to be repaired. In a post-collapse world, where will you take your semi-auto if it needs to be fixed? Where will you get replacement parts? Unless you’re already skilled at gun repair and have an inventory of spare parts, the failure of even a small spring can turn your prized pistol into an expensive paperweight.

  Bear in mind that I’m not saying you shouldn’t own a semi-auto pistol; I’m just saying you should get a revolver first. And in the spirit of survival on a budget, you don’t really want to “go cheap” with a semi-automatic. So while you’re saving up for a good pistol, you should have an affordable revolver to fill the handgun role in the meantime.

  I recommend either a .38 Special(pictured 1st) or .357 Magnum(pictured 2nd) with a 3-4 inch barrel. Shorter, small-frame snubbies may be better for concealed carry, but they’re not as well balanced, which makes them harder to fire accurately. Also, due to their smaller size, they typically only hold 5 rounds. In a SHTF situation, I’m not so much concerned about how well it can be concealed as I am about accuracy and that extra cartridge.

  The .38 Special has served well as the standard police-issue side-arm for decades and some officers still carry one. It has adequate stopping power and ammunition is cheap and abundant. You really can’t go wrong with a .38 Special. However, my personal preference is the .357 Magnum, as it can use both .357 Mag and .38 Special cartridges (but it doesn’t work the other way around. You can’t fire .357 Mag rounds in a .38 Special revolver) This gives you the option to use the cheaper .38 Special rounds for practice, or if you can’t handle the recoil of the more powerful .357 Mag rounds. Also, in a post-collapse world, you may not always be able to find your ammo of choice, so it’s good to have another option.

  Ultimately, the caliber you choose should be something that you feel comfortable with. However, I am among those who don’t recommend going any smaller than 9mm. A handgun’s primary function is self-defense, with the goal of stopping the attacker. I reckon a .22 revolver or pistol could deter an attacker, but if a hungry looter is intent on taking what you and your family need to survive and/or possibly killing you, do you really want to deter him -- or do you want to stop him?

  Whatever you choose, stick with well-known, quality manufacturers. Don’t be tempted by bargain basement prices from a maker you (or your experienced friends) have never heard of. Chances are good that a cheap gun won’t hold up over time and may fail just when you need it the most. Lower-end, (yet decent-quality) revolvers can be found for under $400 brand-new, but you should be able to find something as good, or better, for less money if you buy used. If you’ve just gotta have a new one, manufacturers such as: Taurus, Ruger, Charter Arms, Dan Wesson, and CZ all have good reputations as makers of low(er) cost revolvers and pistols.

  Rifle

  For a survival rifle on a budget, I would recommend acquiring a good bolt-action rifle from the military surplus market. Surplus ammo for these rifles is very cheap, but it’s also corrosive, which means you’ll have to be diligent about cleaning after you shoot them. Non-corrosive ammo is available, but it costs quite a bit more. Some people criticize the use of corrosive surplus ammo, but I think as long as you make sure you clean your rifle properly after each use, you should have no problems.

  Listed below are my top three picks for surplus rifles on a budget. This is by no means a comprehensive list, but it’s a good place to start. Make sure you have any surplus rifle checked out by a gunsmith before you fire it.

  My top pick (and one of the most popular military surplus rifles) is the Mosin-Nagant. (pictured below) This rifle, has been around since 1891 and was the standard-issue Soviet army rifle during World War II, was also used as a sniper rifle. Since then, they’ve been manufactured by several countries (including the U.S.) in a number of variations. You can easily find one for cheap - under $100 in most cases - and you won’t have any problems finding ammo (7.62x54R) and accessories for it.

  Another top choice in military surplus is the Lee-Enfield No. 4. (pictured below) This rifle was adopted by the British military in 1941 and can be found in a number of variations for under $200. Ammunition for this rifle is fairly easy to find. The British-made version uses .303 British cartridges, while the Indian-made 2A Enfield is chambered for 7.26mm NATO rounds.

  The Yugoslav M48 Mauser is a variation of the German Mauser and was manufactured in the former Yugoslavia between 1950 and 1965. Due to the fact that a majority of these rifles were kept in storage by the Yugoslavian government until the country’s collapse, the ones you’ll find in the U.S. are typically in near-new condition. Average cost is around $150 and the M48 Mauser uses 8mm cartridges.

  All the rifles listed above are suitable for deer hun
ting. If you plan on going after smaller critters, you can easily find a .22, .22 Mag, or an air rifle cheaply enough at retail/sporting goods stores. If bears or moose are a concern where you live (or where you plan to be when TSHTF), it’s a lot cheaper to get a rifled barrel for your shotgun and shoot slugs than to buy a large caliber rifle. It won’t have as much range, but that’s not an issue for me. I don’t hunt bear, and I doubt I need 100 yards to defend myself from one. Actually, you don’t even need the rifled barrel. The right slugs through a smooth-bore will hit 50 yards.

  Keep in mind that ammunition is also a part of your arsenal, and you’ll have to figure that expense into your budget as well. Make sure that whatever guns you buy use ammo that’s cheap and commonly found. How much ammo should you get? Well -- as far as I’m concerned, “too much” is never enough. You should stock as much ammo as you can afford. Some people consider lead (in the form of ammo) to be among the “noble metals,” a group that includes gold and silver – and it is perhaps the most valuable of the three. Ammunition will be more valuable than gold when everything goes sideways, so consider it an investment in your future.

  Also, don’t forget about optics and other accessories and upgrades that are essential for making your firearms function as effectively as possible. A good scope, for example, could make the difference between bagging that critter or going hungry. Especially when hunting squirrel or rabbit.