Survivalist Anthologies Volume 1

by George Shepherd

  Next, pour that mix into the six-gallon carboy. Fill with clean water to the five-gallon mark. Add one cup of plain old baker’s yeast and pop in the air lock. In the span of about five minutes you’ve made your very first mash!

  Transfer the carboy to a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Fermentation for this easy recipe works best between 70° and 76°F. A few hours after you’ve added the yeast, you’ll notice a 1-2 inch thick layer atop the mixture and the air lock will commence to bubbling. After a few days the mixture will appear milky white and after a couple of weeks - once the air lock has stopped bubbling - the mixture will be translucent with a golden shade. Barring the use of a hydrometer to test gravity, this lack of activity from the airlock is the best indication that the fermentation has completed. The entire process usually takes about a month to complete.

  The second part of the overall process - distilling the mash - is the physical separation and condensation of the liquid gold from the fermented mix. Many will make this process seem somehow mystical - or worse – overly scientific and nerdy. While the process is scientific, the most science you’ll need to know is that ethanol boils at a different temperature than water and other fusel oils. That’s it.

  That first month of fermentation is important because it gives you time to get your still together. Stills can be as complicated as women, and also much like women, they can be veritable works of art. But for our purposes, simpler is better. You can obtain a basic still from online auction sites fairly easily, but since you already have the basis of a pot still, namely that ten-gallon stainless steel pot, why bother? For just a few dollars more in copper and solder you can produce a perfectly acceptable pot still - the most common and basic of the wide variety of stills out there.

  The pot still consists of four parts:

  The boil tank (which is what that handy steel pot will be used for), a column packed with some sort of filter material, a way to cool the escaping gas back into a liquid, and a heat source.

  The column for this project is two and a half feet tall and a 1 7/8” in diameter, secured through the lid of the pot. The lid is held in place with clips or clamps. The column is packed with glass marbles secured at the bottom with window screen or a copper scrubber that’s been cut and packed into the pipe. At the top of the column is a tee, that faces rear to front. The front of the tee is for a cork with a thermometer and the back is a ninety-degree elbow that reduces to a 3/8” copper line. That copper line comes off the still at a 45 degree angle and is enclosed in another, larger pipe with two tees that makes up the cooling area - or as it’s known in this process, a “water jacket”. Cool water is pumped in with an aquarium pump through the bottom tee of the cooling jacket and flows around the 3/8” inner pipe (cooling the gaseous contents to a liquid) and then back out the top tee.

  Many pot stills forgo the water jacket and have spiral copper pipe that eventually cools the gas back to a liquid. The water jacket, however, helps make the process more efficient and quicker.

  Once your airlock has stopped bubbling and your mash is ready, add all of it to the pot and attach the lid that has your column and water jacket extending upwards. Bring the mixture to a boil and watch the thermometer at the top of the column. The liquid will boil long before you ever see the temperature of the gas rise, but at about 120º F you need to start turning your fire down. Ethanol will begin to drip from the water jacket at around 170º F and from there you want the fire low enough where the gas temperature is still climbing, but climbing as slowly as possible. You will produce product from around 170º F to 204º F. The entire distillation process, on this particular still, can take up to ten hours, and will produce about a gallon of pure ethanol. Please remember to never leave your still unattended. You are creating a flammable gas over a heat source and, well, the two don’t always mix together so well.

  If you’re using the product for medicinal purposes or fuel, you’re done. If you wish to consume it, you can cut it with fifty percent water and have very drinkable moonshine. (I like mine with Big Red). Store it in glass containers with charred wood in it and in another few weeks you’ll have a very passable whiskey. There are also many ready-made flavorings to add to a neutral liquor to make them appear and taste like rum, scotch, or whiskey. You can also store it with oranges, watermelon, pears, or most other fruits to give it a fruity taste.

  For more information, please visit the Home Distillers forum, or for a very good beginner’s book, find yourself a copy of The Alaskan Bootlegger’s Bible by Leon K. Kania.

  Disclaimer: This article is intended for educational purposes only. Neither the writer nor the publisher encourage violating local, state or federal law and assumes no responsibility for the use or mis-use of this information in committing illegal acts.

  John Burks is a freelance writer and an avid home-brewer. He was raised by his grandparents, who had lived through the Great Depression and learned from an early age the importance of living a minimalist lifestyle and being prepared for bad times. He is also a fourth-generation oil-field worker living between Oklahoma City, OK and Houston, TX.

  The Survival Garden

  by “Nurse Amy” Alton

  Gardening is one of the skills most people consider to be easy to learn. Plant a seed, water, then harvest the food, right? Seems easy, but gardening - under the pressure of requiring a harvest of food to keep your family alive - may be one of the hardest skills a prepper has to learn. Several stumbling blocks may decrease or even eliminate your harvest: Low rain fall, disease, pests, poor germination, poor soil, animal theft and inclement weather are battles that could be lost, with devastating results. After a collapse is not a good time to start hauling out seeds, throwing them on the ground and hoping these seeds will feed your family. There is a huge difference between hobby gardening and survival gardening. One is enjoyable and relieves daily stress, the other is to sustain life. Don’t wait until it is too late. Make a plan now and get started!

  A solid plan starts with education. Learn about your area’s seasons, weather, soil, water sources and typical food production. Write down where and what to plant. Build raised gardens, clear the land or obtain lots of containers for growing - especially if you don’t have a lot of acreage. If you decide you need extra soil, compost or amendments, get them now. Study pest and disease control. There are plants that naturally help defend your crops from these problems. Estimate how many people you will need to feed and how much food to plant. Practice is essential for good food production. Most experts say it takes at least one year of gardening to begin harvesting enough food to last through a winter. The reality of survival gardening is that it may take about an acre of intense farming to provide enough food for a family of four.

  First, study your growing zone. Each area in the United States is assigned a particular growing zone. Here’s a great website for you to find out your grow zone: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

  The growing zone is a valuable starting point. It will give you important information regarding the seasons, weather and what foods you may be able to harvest in the area. The growing zone is only a guideline; other foods may be cultivated in your garden, that are not typically grown there. This is another reason to start experimenting as soon as possible. Other foods usually grown elsewhere might provide an unusual harvest in your garden, you never know until you try!

  Next, investigate companies that can provide appropriate seeds for your growing zone. Seed companies known for their reputation of providing non-GMO, non-hybrid, heirloom, and heritage stocks are best. GMO seeds are Genetically Modified Organisms. These hybrid seeds are “blended” between 2 or more organisms, and will not reproduce a second generation of food exactly like the first planting. Non-GMO, non-hybrid, heirloom, and heritage seeds are going to “breed true” and the future generations will all produce the same plant as the original seed, unless it is cross pollinated with another variety. Seed saving will provide the next season’s seeds, if a collapse situation occurs.


  Decide where you will be planting the practice garden, because sun and soil are vital. The location of the garden should be where you have the most sun hours per day. A south facing area is always best in the United States because of the change in the position of the sun during the spring and fall seasons.

  Soil tests will give you information about soil fertility. It is a way to assure good plant health and maximum crop productivity. Every state has agricultural extension offices that can provide a soil test, usually for free. Soil fertility fluctuates throughout the year and is influenced by soil amendments, crops and rainfall. Some plants are stubborn about their soil composition - including pH - while others are more flexible. A soil test is the best way to determine these parameters. With this information, you can now decide what seeds and plants to purchase. Draw out the garden plan and purchase the seeds, plants, berries and trees. Nut and fruit trees, along with berry bushes, are a great way to supplement the garden harvest.

  Once you have discovered your growing zone, acquired good seeds and performed a soil test you can begin to amend the soil with appropriate organic fertilizers. Composting is an easy way to acquire some organic fertilizer and enhance the soil’s nutrients, so start a composting area now. There are many organic soil amendments that will help your soil, including, but not limited to: worm castings, coconut coir, compost, lime, wood ash, coffee grounds, grass clippings, greensand, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, peat moss, and rock phosphate. Green manure is a method of adding nutrients to the soil by planting certain “cover” crops and then tilling them into the soil before they flower and seed.

  Container gardening may be the only alternative to a large extensive garden for some people. It is critical, that if you’re “bugging in” to a size-restricted residence or a soil poor area, that you obtain many containers for planting immediately. After a collapse situation, containers and the appropriate soil to fill them up with will no longer be available, so get your supplies now.

  Almost any container will do, even old tires can be used. Growing food in containers doesn’t have to be difficult. Get the container and drill several 1/4” holes in both the sides and the bottom. Soil needs oxygen, and excessive water will “drown” the roots, so drill more holes if you live in a wet environment. If the rainfall for your growing zone is light, drill just a few holes in the sides and also on the bottom. The right drainage might have to be learned by trial and error, so don’t wait until your life depends on it.

  Organic soil is best, but don’t skip container gardening because your budget does not include the soil costs. Just get soil. Most bagged soils contain little to no nutrients, so your next purchase is going to be soil amendments. Plants need nutrients, just like people. If you suspect a collapse is imminent, buy extras of everything. There are usually local vendors that sell bulk soil and compost relatively cheap. Seek them out and get as much as you can afford.

  There is a very critical soil secret that even some long-time farmers do not know about: Mycorrhizae fungi (it comes as a powder you can dissolve in water). A plant’s root system is limited to nutrients and water within its reach. Mycorrhizae fungi extend that reach and bring extra nutrients and water to the root system and also help prevent diseases. The root system provides food in the form of carbohydrates to the mycorrhizae fungi. Together, they help each other and produce a healthier plant. The mycorrhizae fungi can be added to the seed as a paste before planting or added to water for soil addition after planting. The plant will grow faster and will be more drought-tolerant and disease-resistant.

  Now it ‘s time to get some seeds into the ground. Make a paste of the mycorrhizae powder and water to mix with large seeds. Lettuce and carrot seeds are too small, however, so you will plant them first and then water them with a mycorrhizae solution. Don’t plant in rows or even spacings, as this will draw attention to the survival garden; staying low-profile will be your best strategy. Be creative and spread out the plants among other non-food bushes and flowers. Plant different seeds together, learn about “companion” plants that flourish when planted in the same area. Native Americans would maximize their space by planting corn, peas and pumpkins together! For trellised plants, use fallen branches and limbs to provide a natural look. If it’s just a practice garden, it’s fine to use manufactured trellises.

  Water the ground thoroughly and regularly. Seeds will not germinate without water. It’s always a good idea to mulch above the freshly planted seeds. Pine straw is an excellent mulching material and also helps to hide the newly emerging plant from predators. Mulch decreases evaporation and lessens the water requirements, which may play a vital role in a post-collapse situation when water isn’t easy to acquire or transport to the plants. Check the soil for moisture every day; don’t over saturate the soil, because this can cause disease. Look for any pests or diseases at least every other day. The sooner you discover them, the better your chances will be to stop them! There are many organic and natural pest controls and disease treatments available for a healthier garden: Research these now. Get some good gardening books for reference, because in a post-collapse world, these books will be like gold!

  In time and with experience, your practice survival garden will provide you with good lessons and healthy food. Planning a garden today is as important, if not more important, than buying storage food, communication equipment, guns and ammo, alternative energy supplies and medical supplies. If we enter into a post-collapse situation, your food storage will only take you so far. Get your feet wet now, and give growing your own food a try. Your survival garden’s success will be based on the lessons you learn now, so make a plan and get going!

  “Nurse Amy” Alton is an Advanced Registered Nurse Practitioner and a Certified Nurse Midwife, as well as an avid urban homesteader. Currently, Amy is in the process of earning Master Gardener Certification for the state of Florida. She’s also the co-host of “Dr. Bones & Nurse Amy’s Doom and Bloom Show” on the Prepper Podcast Radio Network (www.prepperpodcast.com) which airs every Monday night at 9:30pm (EDT) – 6:30pm (PDT).

  How to Never Run Out of Food

  by Carrie Milandred

  You could have a freezer filled with food. You could have a pantry filled with food. You could even have a garage filled to the ceiling with food. But, what happens when that food runs out?

  Seeds. Yes, having seeds is your answer. Not just seeds to produce fresh fruits and vegetables in your garden, but for sprouting as well. This is a great solution for longtime food storage when space is limited.

  Medicinal and nutritional sprouts have a long history. It has been written that the Ancient Chinese physicians recognized and prescribed sprouts for curing many disorders over 5,000 years ago. Sprouts have continued to be a main staple in the diets of Americans of Oriental descent. Although accounts of sprouting appear in the Bible in the Book of Daniel, it took centuries for the West to fully realize its nutrition merits.

  In the 1700’s, sailors were riddled with scurvy (lack of Vitamin C) and suffered heavy casualties during their two to three year voyages. From 1772-1775, Captain James Cook had his sailors ate limes, lemons and varieties of sprouts; all abundant sources of Vitamin C. These, plus other fresh fruits and vegetables and a continuous program of growing and eating sprouts were credited with the breakthrough, thus solving the mariners’ greatest casualty problem.

  Seeds themselves are a very nutritious form of food because they contain proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and oils that a beginning plant needs to grow. Many of these constituents are increased greatly when the seeds are sprouted.

  Sprouts are real Life Vitamins, Minerals, Proteins, and Enzymes. As an example, a sprouted Mung Bean has the same carbohydrate content of a melon, vitamin A of a lemon, thiamin of an avocado, riboflavin of a dry apple, niacin of a banana, and ascorbic acid of a loganberry.

  Sprouts are the most reliable year-round source of vitamin C, carotene A, and many B vitamins (such as folacin), all of which are usually in short supply in our diet. S
prouting seeds, grains, and legumes greatly increases their content of these vitamins. For example, the vitamin A content (per calorie) of sprouted Mung beans is two-and-a-half times higher than the dry bean, and some beans have more than eight times more vitamin A after being sprouted.

  WHAT CAN YOU SPROUT?

  ALFALFA: This has only recently been discovered to be excellent for sprouting. Alfalfa comes from North Africa where it is used as a crop for animals and green manure. Some believe alfalfa sprouts to be the most nutritious food in the world. They are high in protein, chlorophyll, calcium, potassium, vitamin A, and vitamin K. When the root is 1 inch long, it will begin to develop tiny green leaves. At this stage it needs to be eaten immediately so the plant will not switch to photosynthesis that exhausts the stored food in the seed. Raw alfalfa is delicious in salads or sandwiches.

  BARLEY: Barley converts the largest amount of starch to sugar which is why it is widely used in producing beer. It has therefore been studied more thoroughly than any other seed. Again as with many grains, the roots should be no longer than the seed size itself.

  CHICKPEAS: Commonly known as garbanzo beans. Primarily a pulse crop grown in India. The sprout is tender and delicious and is ready to eat when the root is between 1 1/2 and 2 inches long. Cooking requires only 5 minutes.

  CORN: Finding corn for sprouting is a real trick because the germ is rarely intact, due to how the kernels are removed from the cob. The root should be allowed to grow to only 1 inch in length. Cooking time is approximately 8 minutes.

  FENUGREEK: This legume is still used in medicine, food and teas. It is a spicy seed that is excellent for making curry. Use when the sprout has grown to 1 1/2 inches long. Fenugreek is often sold where the seeds are broken for making fenugreek tea. Make sure you buy whole fenugreek seed.