The Great American Ale Trail (Revised Edition)
Page 18
KEY BEER
Look for regional specialties like Avery’s Dugana IIPA (8.5% ABV), a big, floral, resinous brew, in addition to West Coast cult beers from Russian River, Lagunitas, Stone, and Port.
THE MOUNTAIN SUN
1535 Pearl St. • Boulder, CO 80302 (303) 546-0886 • mountainsunpub.com • Established: 1993
THE SOUTHERN SUN
627 S. Broadway • Boulder, CO 80305 (303) 543-0886 • mountainsunpub.com • Established: 2002
SCENE & STORY
A relaxing Boulder standby, the Mountain Sun expanded by popular demand with a second brewpub, the Southern Sun, in 2002. (There’s also a related pub in Denver, the Vine Street Pub.) None other than GABF founder Charlie Papazian is a fan of the trio, especially the Southern Sun location, which has Flatiron mountain views. “It’s a cool beer scene,” he says. “It’s all about the beer and a place to meet friends—smaller and more intimate [than the Mountain Sun]. It gets crowded so get there early.”
PHILOSOPHY
“There will never be televisions at our pubs because we want our guests to meet and discuss the world in which we live or simply to play Scrabble,” reads the company’s website. There you have it.
KEY BEER
Mountain Sun and Southern Sun have won numerous medals for their beers, with the hop bomb of an India Pale Ale known as FYIPA (about 7.5% ABV) gaining the most recent notice.
Fort Collins
NEW BELGIUM BREWING CO.
500 Linden St. • Fort Collins, CO 80524 (970) 221-0524 • newbelgium.com • Established: 1991
SCENE & STORY
Maker of the craft brew smash Fat Tire Ale, New Belgium is the largest craft brewery in Fort Collins and the third-largest in the United States. In spring 2016, they launched a second location in Asheville, North Carolina, and it’s essentially a household name, at this point. As the story goes, Jeff Lebesch started the brewery with his then-wife (and current company CEO), Kim Jordan, after discovering the incredible array of beers lovingly and idiosyncratically produced in Belgium while touring that country on his mountain bike in 1989. No visit to Colorado would be complete without a tour here (it’s popular, so plan to reserve two to three weeks ahead). Follow it with beers in the airy, sleek taproom, dubbed the “Liquid Center”—revamped in 2015 to include an outdoor beer garden and space for more visitors.
While the nave-like brewing hall feels like a cathedral, with creamy, colorful tile work around the bases of the kettles, the beating heart of this operation is in an unassuming corner of a storage warehouse behind the taproom, where rows of massive foudres stand in a tower of amber-hued wood and iron bands. There, New Belgium ages ales into vinous liquids for later blending, some exuding aromas that are the products of alcoholic compounds called esters. Though fruit is not always present, the beers aged in this way can exhibit aromas of pineapple and tangerine, as well as chewy red wine-like tannins, and a flavor like sour cherries.
New Belgium has been a pioneer in introducing Americans to the Belgian styles called Flanders Red and Oud Bruin (“Old Brown”) of which the crowning example is generally thought to be Belgium’s Rodenbach Grand Cru, reddish ale aged in huge oak vats and later blended with younger beer to round out the acidic flavors created by prolonged exposure to wood. New Belgium’s Belgian head brewer, Peter Bouckaert, worked for Rodenbach for years, and he’s considered a true master of barrel aging. This is not how all New Belgium beer is brewed, but it’s how the best and most interesting ones are matured, sometimes with additional fruits in the tanks.
PHILOSOPHY
Outside magazine has named the employee-owned company one of the “Best Places to Work” in the United States, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a sense of institutionally mandated fun here: The Tour de Fat is an annual bike festival celebrating zero-emissions commuting, with a concert on a solar-powered stage and beer served in compostable cups. There’s a company climbing wall and foosball table, a slide from the second to first floors, and even an on-site dirt bike track. All employees earn a new cruiser bike after one year at the company; after four more they’re taken to Belgium to follow in the founder’s footsteps.
KEY BEER
Fat Tire Amber Ale, a biscuity-tasting brew of light to medium body, made New Belgium a national player, but the company’s more adventurous, smaller release concoctions, such as La Folie, New Belgium’s version of Rodenbach, are the ones to seek out. Now marketed through the brewery’s Lips of Faith line, La Folie is a landmark, polarizing beer—it’s uncompromisingly tart, with a bracing flavor profile that can sucker-punch the unprepared. But to the initiated, it’s nothing short of nectar.
2351 Busch Dr. • Fort Collins, CO 80524-9400 • (970) 221-0922 • budweiser.com
A tour of Anheuser-Busch’s plant in Fort Collins is a stop I unironically recommend for all craft beer lovers. Blasphemy, you say? Not at all. In fact, for any lover of beer, this is a stop worth making for one simple reason: perspective. Touring this maze of robots churning out millions upon millions of identical beers is a look at beer making’s outer technological frontier. Take the “Brewmaster’s” tour (twenty-five dollars) and you’ll see massive brewing kettles that look like something out of Star Wars. You’ll gape at a canning line churning out Bud Light at a rate of thirty-three cans per second. Brewers are technical people by nature, and there are many who speak of factories like this with a begrudging reverence. They might not want to make beer the same way, but the sheer mechanical ingenuity is something to behold, even if the end result is akin to “wet air” as the famous 1987 Atlantic article, “A Glass of Handmade,” by William Least Heat-Moon memorably attested.
And yet wandering through the futuristic forest of stainless tanks, myriad pipes, conveyor belts, and grated stairways you’ll taste something quite remarkable: unfiltered Bud Light. Yes, it’s made of 40 percent rice. Hop character: nada. But after the so-called beechwood aging (it’s real wood, I can at least tell you that much), and before filtration and pasteurization has rent the last of any remaining flaws asunder, Bud Light has an appealing flavor, surprisingly full bodied and slightly sweet. It’s a treat to try beer at this stage of the process. Germans and Czechs have been releasing beers in this state for eons, calling them by various names including kellerbier, zwickelbier, and, in the case of the fabled Mahr’s brewery of Bamberg, Germany, ungespundet hefetrüb. For the record, I suggested that the manager pitch a commercial version of unfiltered Bud to her superiors. (I can see the commercials now.) But I’m not holding my breath. We don’t really need another ersatz-craft beer from corporate bean counters. But with Bud Light Golden Wheat a national brand, maybe Bud “Kellerbier” doesn’t sound so crazy, after all.
ODELL BREWING COMPANY
800 East Lincoln Ave. • Fort Collins, CO 80524 • (970) 498-9070 • odells.com • Established: 1989
SCENE & STORY
Odell was the second craft brewery to open in Colorado (after Boulder Brewing Company), starting with a little five-barrel brewery in a 1915 grain elevator. Early on, founders Doug Odell, Wynne, and Corkie Odell maintained a draught-only focus while struggling to keep up with demand. So they added a bottling line in 1996, which effectively supercharged the marketplace for their beer. Flash-forward to 2015, and the brewery is currently making about 100,000 brewers’ barrels (or bbl; one barrel equals thirty-one U.S. gallons) of beer, sold throughout the middle of the country in eleven states and counting. A canning line came on in 2015, too.
With live music every Wednesday, the sunny taproom (and outdoor patio) is one of the most popular destinations for beer lovers in Fort Collins. Best of all, success hasn’t spoiled the makers of the popular Scottish ale called 90 Schilling. There’s a warm, family-friendly feel to the place, which makes more sense when one learns that in all, there are five married couples (some of whom met here) who work together at the brewery. Which is a sizable chunk of the staff. It might be the happiest place in America.
PHILOSOPHY
Fortunately
, the original five-barrel system remains in use for special one-offs, in which the beers depart from standard English ales and head into parts unknown, but not unappreciated. One such recent brew was Angry Robin, an English strong ale aged in merlot barrels and spiked with a dash of Brettanomyces bacteria, giving it a barnyardy kick. And I got to brew a one-off fresh hop ale on it with Odell brewer Brent Cordle, resulting in PUBlisher, a tasty American pale ale (if we do say so ourselves).
KEY BEER
Every fall, Odell releases a one-off beer aged in American oak barrels, echoing the Old World techniques over at New Belgium, though on a much smaller scale. Woodcut Nos. 1, 2, and 3 were all variations on the theme of strong ale aged in oak, which adds layers of vanilla-like woodiness to the brews. No. 4 was a strong amber lager. On and on the variations have continued. These beers are beautifully labeled and corked in 750-milliliter bottles, and may be available in limited quantities at the taproom. Otherwise, try any other barrel-aged “pilot system” beers, such as the earthy, acidic—and interesting—Brett Porter. These are brewed on the original 5bbl (about 350 gallons) system that started it all.
Longmont Area
LEFT HAND BREWING COMPANY
1265 Boston Ave. • Longmont, CO 80025 (303) 772-0258 • lefthandbrewing.com • Established: 1993
SCENE & STORY
Housed in an old meatpacking plant in an industrial area of Longmont, Left Hand has slowly grown from a raggedy upstart into a world-class small brewery. It all began when head brewer Eric Wallace, who had traveled around the world tasting beers while in the Air Force, joined forces with his college friend Dick Doore, who was a home brewer. In the first year, the guys took home a gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival. They grew in a sustainable fashion, and eventually morphed into what is now a laid-back—but not lazy—brewing company. “It’s kind of an after-work place,” says Wallace. “We get engineers from all these tech companies and biotechs around here, bicyclists, arborists, and painters.”
Originally called Indian Peaks Brewery, for a nearby mountain range, Wallace and Doore’s brewery was forced to change names after a branding dispute with another company. They settled on Left Hand, after an Arapahoe word (“Niwot”), which was the name of a chief who over-wintered nearby on the banks of the St. Vrain River. And then there’s a more, shall we say, colorful connection: Curtis Green, the early sausage maker tenant of the building, lost his right arm in the grinder one day.
In the weeks leading up to the brewery’s twentieth anniversary, the St. Vrain River swelled in what was deemed a 500-year flood, which nearly destroyed the brewery (and caused tens of millions of dollars in damage to area homes and businesses). It was a terribly close call, and Left Hand stepped forward, donating $60,000 of relief funds to the community, which still (understandably) speaks of the events in sorrowful tones.
PHILOSOPHY
Left Hand isn’t trying to outgun other companies in the IPA arms race—they’re not heavy-handed with the hops. “Our brewing approach is all about balance,” says Wallace. “When we started, we were brewing beers that we wanted, that we weren’t really finding out there in the marketplace. We’re still out there exploring flavors and styles that we like. Overwhelmingly, we’ll always fall back to balance. In the end, is it drinkable? Does it have complexity, depth? And that balance? It’s all about the flavor.”
Nitro—meaning the service of beer blended with nitrogen, giving it a creamy mouthfeel—is also big with these guys. They launched a nitro beer line at the Great American Beer Festival in 2011, including the exceedingly popular Milk Stout Nitro, and since 2014 they’ve hosted a Nitro Fest, an event dedicated to nitrogenated beer, Colorado art, and food.
KEY BEER
Left Hand Polestar Pils. In the push to brew ever stronger, stranger beers, the subtle pilsner often gets neglected. That’s too bad, because a great pilsner is a thing of beauty—an alcoholic beverage that is somehow more refreshing than a glass of ice water on a Death Valley afternoon. Like the best American versions, Polestar also stands out for its perfect use of hops; it’s brewed with three varieties, which together lend a powdery floral aroma. While it’s only occasionally available, Left Hand Smokejumper Imperial Porter is also worth seeking out. Next to your dog, a smoked beer (made with wood- or peat-fire smoked malt) may be the ultimate fireside companion. Left Hand’s is a briny, coffee-black 9.2% ABV beast of a beer that calls to mind bacon. Even better, Wallace and Co. donate proceeds from this rare, hand-smoked seasonal to a scholarship fund for the children of smokejumpers killed in action.
Return of the Can
There was a time when only cheap beer came in cans. . . . Even so, the aluminum can, introduced to this country’s beer drinking public in 1935, became iconic—even if the beer it contained was often unremarkable. Quality notwithstanding, the cssffft sound that issued forth upon opening each new can was a harbinger of good things, especially on a hot summer day.
But today the humble can is new and improved and experiencing a renaissance: Since the release of Dale’s Pale Ale in a can in 2002, hundreds of American microbrewers have started packaging their finest stuff in aluminum. There are even mobile canning lines available to small breweries who lack the expensive gear. Thanks to special linings, there’s no interaction whatsoever between the metal and liquid; there’s less “head space” between the top of the can and the brew, meaning, less beer-spoiling oxygen remains in contact with the beer. What’s more, cans offer benefits that bottles don’t: Harmful UV light rays are blocked, sparing the beer from the dreaded “skunk” effect (avoid green and clear beer bottles when you can; brown glass blocks more UV rays). Today, hundreds of American craft brewers have adopted cans. They’re easier to carry (especially on camping trips), less likely to break and cut someone, and more quickly cooled. Crack one open as soon as you can.
OSKAR BLUES HOMEMADE LIQUIDS & SOLIDS
1555 S. Hover Rd. • Longmont, CO 80501 (303) 485-9400 • oskarblues.com • Established: 2009
SCENE & STORY
Think: bayou-on-the-front-range, equal parts shiny taproom, soul food smorgasbord, and juke joint blues bar. The smell of applewood smoke greets you before you reach the door; that’s thanks to the “Midnight Toker,” an in-house smoker used for slow-smoked North Carolina–style barbecue pork, spare ribs, beer-can chicken, salmon, and turkey. Inside, there’s a mouth-watering display of shrimp and other shellfish, scores of interesting pieces of folk art from the Deep South, and good music, including live blues, alt country, rockabilly, and bluegrass five nights a week. “We made a commitment early on that we were going to do good music,” says founder Dale Katechis of the atmosphere. “We weren’t just going to book $200 ‘Mustang Sally’ bands.” There’s even a line of Oskar Blues hot sauces, based on five different beers. Try the Ten FIDY Imperial Stout version, made with the world’s hottest pepper Bhut Jolokia, or “ghost chile,” if you dare.
PHILOSOPHY
A rising tide lifts all ships. This Oskar Blues location features scores of guest taps from other Colorado and American brewers, making the forty-three-tap pub a great place for a Colorado beer tasting.
KEY BEER
The clean and crisp Mama’s Little Yella Pils, at 5.3% ABV, makes a great quencher for spicy ribs and other dishes they do so well here. But don’t miss other OB rarities like Smoke on the Water, a lightly smoked, 7% ABV winter warmer.
OSKAR BLUES TASTY WEASEL TAPROOM
1800 Pike Rd. Unit B • Longmont, CO 80501 (303) 776-1914 • oskarblues.com • Established: 2009
SCENE & STORY
The Tasty Weasel is a cozy little taproom within the massive Oskar Blues brewing facility, a behemoth headed north of 150,000bbl annual capacity (plus a new Brevard, North Carolina location producing 85,000bbl per year). Expect an industrial yet intimate setting (corrugated metal walls, funky art) popular with beer fanatics and locals, an up-close view of massive, beer-filled fermenters, cool music on the hi-fi, British-style casks called firkins, and oak-aged be
er tappings on Tuesday and Friday nights.
PHILOSOPHY
No risk, no reward. “I grew up in the restaurant business and I always had a dream of opening my own restaurant, and Lyons seemed to be about the riskiest place to do it,” recalls founder Dale Katechis. “When I moved there it was Mayberry in the mountains.” That roll-the-dice business model has proved a savvy strategy, but the results have presented challenges of their own. “It’s just 100 percent growth year after year,” he says of the entire operation. “The job now is holding onto the culture and the soul and why we started doing it, and in business sometimes that’s hard.” The Tasty Weasel—and for Katechis, commuting between parts of the factory on a BMX bike—is part of that quest to maintain that fun-loving culture at the heart of Oskar Blues.
KEY BEER
This would be the place to sample the successful 10.5% ABV Ten Fidy, a roasty, fulsome Russian Imperial Stout, or better yet, the oak barrel–aged Ten Fidy, which is quite rare. The wood imparts rich notes of vanilla and caramel.
Lyons
OSKAR BLUES GRILL & BREW
303 Main St. • Lyons, CO 80540 (303) 823-6685 • oskarblues.com • Established: 1997
SCENE & STORY
The old mining town of Lyons, (population: 1,500), sits at the confluence of the St. Vrain North and St. Vrain South Creeks, just about twenty miles from Rocky Mountain National Park. Surrounded by reddish sandstone peaks, it’s an outdoor lover’s paradise, and it’s also known for an amazing music scene, with the annual Rockygrass Bluegrass Festival held every summer and regularly drawing such luminaries as David Grisman and Tony Rice. The Grill & Brew is the town’s social hub, with its Southern-themed, forty-five-tap bar, dining room, and outdoor patio overlooking the little brewhouse building and a barn that has been converted for special events and parties. On a good summery night the patio is the place to be, sipping some fresh craft beer in the breeze.