1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  TOP ATTRACTIONS

  BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE—One of the city’s four major basilicas was built in the 5th century on a site said to have been chosen by the Virgin Mary, then restored and extended between the 12th and 18th centuries. The original mosaics are among the oldest and most beautiful in the city; the 15th-century ceiling is said to have been gilded with some of the first gold brought from the New World; and rare marbles in the Cappella Sistina were plundered from a tower erected by Septimius Severus in A.D. 203. INFO: Tel 39/06-488-1094.

  BORGHESE GALLERY—The luxury-loving Cardinal Scipione Borghese amassed much of this rich collection through his patronage of the finest artists of his day. Marble sculptures such as Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne and Casanova’s Pauline Bonaparte join Caravaggio’s David with the Head of Goliath and other treasures to fill several rooms in this wonderful 17th-century villa. INFO: Tel 39/06-32810; www.galleriaborghese.it.

  THE COLISEUM—Once able to seat 50,000, the Coliseum was begun in A.D. 72 by Vespasian at a site just east of the Roman Forum (see next page). Neglected over the centuries, its stones quarried for other monuments and churches, the largest Roman amphitheater in the world is the enduring symbol of the Eternal City and the grandeur that was Rome. The mighty shell is forever associated with gory combat—between men, between animals, between men and animals, and even between ships, as the whole thing could once be flooded for mock sea battles. INFO: Tel 39/06-700-4261.

  Eighty entrance arches run along the perimeter of the Coliseum, including four grand entrances.

  THE PANTHEON—Built in 27 B.C. by Marcus Agrippa and reconstructed by Hadrian in the early 2nd century, the most complete building to come down to us from ancient Rome—a temple for pagan gods until it was consecrated as a Catholic church in the 7th century—is a remarkable architectural wonder that is exactly as wide as it is high. The world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome is supported by pillars hidden in the walls, providing a lesson in engineering to Michelangelo and others throughout the ages. One of them, Raphael, is entombed in a side chapel, as are Italian royalty and other luminaries. INFO; Tel 39/06-6830-0230.

  The uncovered oculus is the Pantheon’s only source of light.

  PIAZZA DEL CAMPIDOGLIO AND THE CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS—Designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century, the Piazza del Campidoglio is one of Rome’s most elegant spaces, with views over the Roman Forum. Three palazzos framing the piazza house the Capitoline Museums, home to a treasure trove of ancient Roman sculpture that includes bronzes of the she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus and Marcus Aurelius astride a horse. Among the Renaissance paintings are numerous works by Tintoretto and Guido Reni. Some of the Campidoglio collection is housed in a former electrical plant, the Centrale Montemartini, where ancient pieces are placed, with magical effect, among the disused machinery. CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS: Tel 39/06-0608; www.museicapitolini.org. CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI: Tel 39/06-574-8030; http://en.centralemontemartini.org.

  THE ROMAN AND IMPERIAL FORUMS—The busy and crowded center of Roman political, judicial, and commercial life in the days of the Republic, the Roman Forum is an evocative jumble of ruins. You’ll need a map and guide to pick out the numerous temples; the Umbilicus Urbus, the designated center of Rome and ground zero from which all distances in the Empire were measured; the Curia, the main seat of the Roman Senate; and the House of the Vestal Virgins, home of the young women who minded the Temple of Vesta’s sacred fire. The Imperial Forums were begun by Julius Caesar and include the Forums of Caesar, Augustus, and Trajan. Determined to leave his mark on Rome, Trajan also commissioned Trajan’s Column, with bas-reliefs depicting his campaign against the Dacians, and Trajan’s Market, with space for 150 shops and offices. INFO: Tel 39/06-3996-7700; www.capitolium.org.

  SPANISH STEPS—This sweeping staircase, built in 1725, ascends in three majestic tiers from the busy Piazza di Spagna to the French Trinità dei Monti church. The boat-shaped fountain at the foot of the steps was designed in the late 16th century by Bernini or his father (the jury is still out); the poet John Keats died in a house overlooking the steps that is now a small museum; and the top is the place to be at sunset, for a view of Rome’s seven hills. The steps take their name from the Spanish Embassy, which occupied a nearby palazzo in the 19th century. Via Condotti and its pedestrian grid of cobbled offshoots at the foot of the Spanish Steps offers ultrasmart shopping and the ideal venue for an early evening passeggiata, or stroll. Stop in at Caffè Greco, Rome’s oldest watering hole, where Casanova, Goethe, and Lord Byron all stopped to linger.

  TREVI FOUNTAIN—Neptune rides a chariot drawn by winged sea horses across this wildly fanciful Baroque assemblage of white marble and cascading water, completed in 1762. The piazza and fountain are especially enchanting and festive when floodlit at night, and at any time evoke the legend that a backward toss of a coin over the left shoulder into the basin ensures a return to Rome. The surprisingly small piazza was catapulted to international fame in the 1954 classic film Three Coins in the Fountain, and forever secured a few years later when Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni frolicked in its waters in La Dolce Vita.

  VATICAN CITY—The world’s smallest independent state is the epicenter of Roman Catholicism as well as the home of one of the world’s greatest assemblages of art and architecture. La Basilica di San Pietro, begun in 324 on the site where St. Peter was crucified, rises above an elliptical colonnade by Bernini, and was lavishly rebuilt and embellished by the greatest talents of the 16th and 17th centuries. Michelangelo designed the dome of the basilica, and his Pietà is the finest of the hundreds of statues found in the chapels surrounding the 700-foot-long nave. Through a separate entrance to the Vatican Museums are the Renaissance master’s magnificent ceiling frescoes of the Sistine Chapel, depicting the Creation and other biblical tales, and a terrifying scene of the Last Judgment behind the main altar. Michelangelo’s startling use of light and bright colors and overall mastery of the human body brought his papal patrons to their knees. Inarguably the headliner, the chapel is but one element of the museum’s labyrinth of palaces, apartments, and galleries that are gloriously lined with the greatest masterpieces of the ancient and Renaissance worlds: the Stanze di Raffaelo (Raphael Rooms), decorated with the frescoes the artist painted for Pope Julius II; the Laocoön and the Belvedere Torso, two of the most famous sculptures to come down to us from antiquity; frescoes by Fra Angelico, paintings by Caravaggio and Leonardo da Vinci, and modern ceramics by Picasso. INFO: Tel 39/06-6988-3731 (basilica), 39/06-6988-3333 (museums); www.vatican.va.

  OTHER MUST-DOS

  ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT THE VILLA GIULIA—Often overlooked, Italy’s largest and best collection of ancient Etruscan sculptures, terra-cotta vases, sarcophagi, and jewelry fills 35 rooms of an elegant 16th-century country villa built for Pope Julius III. The collection of sophisticated artistry sheds light on this little-known pre-Roman civilization that thrived on the Italian peninsula from the 8th through 3rd centuries B.C. INFO: Tel 39/06-332-6571; http://villagiulia.beniculturali.it.

  HOUSE OF AUGUSTUS—The great-nephew and adopted son of Julius Caesar preferred to live modestly in this small house (opened to the public in 2008) of just four exquisitely frescoed rooms on Palantine Hill overlooking the Forum. As Rome’s first emperor, he took up residence in the sprawling, more imperial Domus Augustana higher up the hill and lived there until his death in A.D.14.

  MARKET AT CAMPO DEI FIORI—Rome’s oldest and best outdoor marketplace, where the city’s chefs snatch up the freshest produce available, also provides great theater as shoppers banter with vendors over the day’s bounty. The glimpse into daily Roman life at its most authentic continues after the last stall closes—in the bars, cafés, and restaurants that line the piazza. Patrons of the popular hole-in-the-wall La Vineria wine bar spill out onto the piazza, wineglasses in hand, to discuss the day’s soccer score. Or follow the heady aroma to the Forno (bakery) for a slice of fresh-from-the-oven pizza bianca: Made without tomato sauce, it is drizzled
with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with salt. FORNO CAMPO DE FIORI: Tel 39/06-6880-6662; www.fornocampodefiori.com.

  MAXXI—The Museo Nazionale della Arte XXI Secolo, Rome’s newest landmark, is a daring and striking assemblage of glass and concrete, slopes and angles. Italy’s first national museum of contemporary art and architecture opened in 2010 in Rome’s residential Flaminio neighborhood, so boldly designed by Anglo-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid that it almost steals the scene from a young but impressive collection that includes Francesco Clemente and Anish Kapoor. INFO: Tel 39/06-321-0181; www.fondazionemaxxi.it/en.

  The Eternal City, whose architecture goes back 25 centuries, welcomed the dramatic spectacle created by MAXXI, where the art collection is not always the center of attention.

  OSTIA ANTICA—As evocative as Pompeii (see p. 179), twice as well preserved, and much easier to visit (it can be reached in 20 minutes by subway), this archaeological site is an excellent window into a once-thriving port town of 60,000 residents. Founded about 620 B.C., it flourished for 8 centuries. INFO: Tel 39/06-5635-8099; www.ostia-antica.org. How: U.S.-based Context Travel leads walking tours. Tel 39/06-9762-5204; in the U.S., 800-691-6036; www.contexttravel.com.

  PIAZZA NAVONA—In warm weather, take a front-row seat at any of the outdoor cafés or restaurants that line the ancient oval piazza once used for chariot races. At the Tre Scalini café, skip the food but linger over their rich chocolate tartufo ice-cream concoction. Against the background of Bernini’s Baroque Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), a host of Felliniesque characters mingle with German students, musicians, retired American couples, and a parade of those out for a constitutional passeggiata. INFO: Tel 39/06-687-9148; www.3-scalini.com.

  WHERE TO STAY

  ALBERGO DEL SENATO—So-close-you-can-touch-it views of the Pantheon have enshrined this venerable hotel in the hearts of generations. Rooms are small but comfortable, and the rooftop terrace is a picturesque perch high above the animated swirl of the old city. INFO: Tel 39/06-678-4343; www.albergodelsenato.it. Cost: from $290 (off-peak), from $590 (peak).

  ALBERGO SANTA CHIARA—In the same family for generations, this old-style hotel provides modest comforts and is most appreciated for its location: a short stroll from the Pantheon and overlooking the charming Piazza della Minerva. INFO: Tel 39/06-687-2979; www.albergosantachiara.com. Cost: from $340.

  CASA HOWARD—This chic accommodation in two nearby locations not far from the Trevi Fountain comes with such pampering touches as fresh flowers and a Turkish bath; there’s no front desk, and guests come and go with their own set of keys. INFO: Tel 39/06-699-2-4555; www.casahoward.com. Cost: from $250.

  HOTEL HASSLER—One of the world’s most fabled hotels glories in its one-of-a-kind location at the top of the Spanish Steps. Dozens of the stylish and supremely comfortable rooms are blessed with terraces and awe-inspiring panoramas of the Eternal City (as is its rooftop Imago restaurant), plus superlative service. At least stop in for an aperitivo at the Hassler Bar. Il Palazzetto, the hotel’s new and more intimate annex across the narrow street, offers a fine restaurant, wine academy, popular wine bar, and four handsome rooms—three with a view of the Spanish Steps. HOTEL HASSLER: Tel 39/06-699340; in the U.S., 800-233-6800; www.hotelhasslerroma.com. Cost: from $600 (off-peak), from $950 (peak); tasting menu at Imago $145. IL PALAZZETTO: Tel 39/06-69934-1000; www.ilpalazzettoroma.com. Cost: from $390 (off-peak), from $570 (peak).

  INN AT THE ROMAN FORUM—Housed in a 17th-century palazzo on a quiet picturesque street near the Forum, this stylish newcomer offers canopied beds and fireplaces in some of the 12 rooms, and a quiet garden that is the place to recharge with a Negroni after a day seeing the sights. INFO: Tel 39/06-691-90970; www.theinnattheromanforum.com. Cost: from $275 (off-peak), from $590 (peak).

  INN AT THE SPANISH STEPS AND VIEW AT THE SPANISH STEPS—These two stylish hotels are located on Via Condotti, Rome’s most fashionable shopping street. Rooms at the Inn are full of antiques and frescoes; those at the View are swathed in neutral tones and contemporary furnishings. INFO: Tel 39/06-6992-5657; www.theviewatthespanishsteps.com. Cost: Inn from $290 (off-peak), from $515 (peak); View from $635 (off-peak), from $1,000 (peak).

  PORTRAIT SUITES—The Ferragamo dynasty leaves its tailored imprint on this stylish town house just off Via Condotti, where black-and-white contemporary surroundings are offset with splashes of color, and amenities include kitchenettes and a rooftop terrace. INFO: Tel 39/06-693-80742; www.lungarnocollection.com. Cost: from $600.

  LA POSTA VECCHIA—You’ll feel like a coddled guest of J. Paul Getty at La Posta Vecchia, his 1640 seaside villa built on ancient Roman foundations, 20 miles north of Rome. The billionaire oil baron and art collector spent millions amassing an enormous collection of antiques and antiquities (Maria de’ Medici’s dowry chest and Gobelin tapestries among them) that still appoint this amazing 19-guest-room getaway removed from the city’s chaos. INFO: Tel 39/06-994-9501; in the U.S., 800-735-2478; www.lapostavecchia.com. Cost: from $460 (off-peak), from $575 (peak). When: closed early Jan–mid-Mar.

  EATING & DRINKING

  DA FORTUNATO AL PANTHEON—At this simple but attractive local favorite, jacketed, bow-tied waiters serve classic Roman favorites to well-heeled crowds who linger for hours over some of the best meals in town. You’ll pay for the location, so make sure to take your after-dinner stroll around the illuminated Pantheon, just a few steps away. INFO: Tel 39/06-679-2788; www.ristorantefortunato.it. Cost: dinner $60.

  LA PERGOLA—Legions of food critics have long rated this elegant restaurant as the city’s finest. It’s located far from the historic center, in the large Rome Cavalieri hotel, but its perch on Monte Mario means gorgeous views to accompany the exceptional Italian-Mediterranean creations of German chef Heinz Beck, who has wowed a demanding clientele since the day he arrived in 1994. INFO: Tel 39/06-3509-2152; www.romecavalieri.it. Cost: dinner $150.

  LA ROSETTA—Much of the reliably fresh seafood is flown in daily from Sicily, where talented chef Massimo Riccioli has roots. Small and expensive but worth it, this beloved seafood-only institution near the Pantheon has had a strong following of locals and in-the-know out-of-towners since opening in 1966. Simple and delicate preparations with subtle Asian flourishes hint of his global meanderings. INFO: Tel 39/06-686-1002; www.larosetta.com. Cost: dinner $100.

  TAVERNA DEI FORI IMPERIALI—This is the classic family-run neighborhood favorite with red-and-white checked tablecloths you expect to find everywhere but don’t. A comfortable taverna in the area of the Roman Forum and Coliseum, it serves up Roman and southern Italian recipes with pride (follow the locals who always go with the day’s special). INFO: Tel 39/06-679-8643; www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com. Cost: dinner $40.

  GELATERIE—To find Rome’s best gelato, try as many as possible, then cast your vote! Start with Giolitti, the city’s oldest gelateria and in the same family since 1900—you won’t be the only one standing in line to sample their 50-some homemade flavors. If Giolitti has a serious contender, it would be the no-cones Il Gelato di San Crispino, on a side street near the Trevi Fountain, where Armagnac, balsamic, and other amazingly intense ingredients find their way into countless creamy offerings. (The honey-and-hazelnut combo also deserves a taste.) Wander the cobbled backstreets around the Piazza Navona until you find Gelateria del Teatro, where dense Belgian chocolate, pistachios from Sicily, white peaches in season, or more curious ingredients like fennel and lavender make this a foodie’s favorite. GIOLITTI: Tel 39/06-699-1243; www.giolitti.it. IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO: Tel 39/06-679-3924. GELATERIA DEL TEATRO: Tel 39/06-4547-4880.

  PRIMO CAFFÉS—Cafés in Rome are a dime a dozen, but ask the caffeine-savvy locals who makes the finest coffee in town and two names will keep popping up—and they’re both in the Pantheon neighborhood, whose water, they say, may be the secret. Caffè Sant’Eustachio is always packed with locals who stream in for superb espresso and the city’s most delicious cappuccino (the latter never ever ordered after
11 A.M. except by innocents abroad). Since 1946, the powerful aroma of roasting coffee has lured visitors to the no-frills, stand-up-only Tazza d’Oro. CAFFÈ SANT’EUSTACHIO: Tel 39/06-6880-2084; www.santeustachioil caffe.it. TAZZA D’ORO: Tel 39/06-678-9792; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com.

  A Coastline Hike with Inspiring Seascapes

  CINQUE TERRE

  Liguria, Italy

  Five villages collectively known as the Five Lands, hidden in tiny coves along the craggy southern stretch of the Ligurian Riviera (see next page), offer a glimpse of an elusive, pristine Mediterranean—Italy as it must have been a century ago. One of the country’s most dramatic coastlines, the Cinque Terre was once virtually unknown to outsiders, with cliffs so unyielding that for centuries the fishing hamlets were isolated from the rest of the country, accessible only by boat or a network of mule paths strung along the precipices.

  Today hikers traverse these sentieri, enjoying some of the most gorgeously scenic and not-too-difficult trails in Europe. These panoramic footpaths pass through slowly disappearing scrublands, as well as agaves, prickly pears, palms, olives, and daringly carved stepped vineyards that produce wine renowned since Boccaccio praised it in the 14th century.

  Monterosso, the busiest, northernmost town, is the only one with a notable selection of small hotels and restaurants and a good stretch of beach where you can enjoy the more leisurely luxuries of the Riviera. The bright, airy rooms of the Hotel Porto Roca are built into a cliff above the sea, while those of the Villa Steno are set amid lemon and olive trees. Ligurian seafood is served at Miky in uncomplicated age-old preparations (try the linguini with lobster). From here you can follow the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) and reach the southernmost village, Riomaggiore, by foot in 5 or 6 hours. Along the way, stop at Il Gambero Rosso, serving fresh fish on the loggia-lined waterfront in picturesque Vernazza. If you can’t walk another step, continue by train or boat service that links the towns. Consider spending a night or two at Ca’ d’Andrean, a former olive mill in Manarola whose cozy sea-facing rooms surround a garden.