1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  Tihany, a thumb-shaped peninsula jutting into the Balaton, is the most historic spot on the lake, with a celebrated Benedictine Abbey Church featuring fantastically carved altars, pulpits, and screens that date to the late 18th century. The peninsula itself is a nature reserve (Hungary’s first, set aside in 1952) of hills and marshy meadows; several color-coded walking trails lead past ancient castle and church ruins to geyser cones and quiet lakeshore. Wind up your stroll at Ferenc Pince Csárda, about a mile south of the Abbey Church. As its name (“Frank’s Cellar”) implies, wine gets equal billing with the food here, and this is your chance to sample some of Tihany’s best vintages.

  At the western end of Balaton, you’ll find the spa town of Hévíz, on the shores of a 10-acre thermal lake (Europe’s largest) of the same name. The water surface temperature averages 91°F and never drops below 72°, even in winter, allowing bathers to enjoy it when ice and snow cover the surrounding fir trees. The attraction for many may be the indoor spa in the adjoining park, where you can sign up for therapies and beauty treatments.

  WHERE: 80 miles/135 km southwest of Budapest. VISITOR INFO: Balatonfüred, www.balatonfured.hu; Tihany, www.tihany.hu. ANNA GRAND HOTEL: Tel 36/87-581-200; www.annagrandhotel.eu. cost: from $110 (off-peak), from $180 (peak). FERENC PINCE CSÁRDA: Tel 36/87-448-575; www.ferenc pince.hu. Cost: dinner $20. HÉVÍZ SPA: Tel 36/83-501-700; www.spaheviz.hu. BEST TIMES: liveliest in Jul–Aug; Sep–Oct for smaller crowds and nicest weather.

  A Town Full of Mediterranean and Turkish Delights

  PÉCS

  Southern Transdanubia, Hungary

  Pécs, the capital of the Hungarian region called Southern Transdanubia, is one of those small, perfectly formed Central European cities that seems to have it all: fine museums, fabulous architecture in the form of Moorish-style buildings left behind by the Turkish occupiers, a mild, almost Mediterranean climate in which almonds and apricots thrive, and café tables fighting for space along charming pedestrian streets. What’s more, Hungary’s premier region for red wine, Villány, is close by.

  The imprint of the Ottomans is everywhere, and the greatest reminder of their former reign is the Inner Town Parish Church, aka the Mosque Church. The largest Ottoman structure left standing in Hungary, it is known for its striking windows framed with Moorish arches, its mihrab, or prayer niche, and the faded Koranic verses found on its walls.

  Of the wealth of world-class museums—one of many reasons Pécs was chosen as a European Capital of Culture in 2010—the Vasarely Museum is most worthy of a visit. It contains a number of works by local son Victor Vasarely (1906–97), called by some the father of Op Art. You’ll also want to stop at the Csontváry Museum for the paintings by Tivadar Kosztka Csontváry (1853–1919), whose tragic life is sometimes compared with that of Vincent van Gogh.

  For an old-world ambience, choose the Palatinus Hotel, located on the city’s central pedestrian street. It features plenty of marble, red carpet, and Moorish flourishes. For cozier accommodations, drive 27 miles south to Villány, where several wine producers have opened smart little hotels with excellent restaurants, such as the family-owned Crocus Gere Bor Hotel. Its Mandula Restaurant & Wine Bar is the place to sample refined versions of regional dishes, like duck breast with forest mushroom risotto and pike-perch fillet with nutmeg-seasoned pumpkin. The Gere family’s own red wines, including cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, are also on offer. Stroll the town’s main street and stop at one of the many cellars offering tastings for more local vintages.

  The Mosque Church stands in central Szechenyi Square.

  WHERE: 142 miles/238 km southwest of Budapest. VISITOR INFO: en.pecs.hu. VASARELY MUSEUM: Tel 36/72-514-044. CSONTVÁRY MUSEUM: Tel 36/72-310-544. PALATINUS HOTEL: Tel 36/72-889-400; www.danubiushotels.com/palatinus. Cost: from $90 (off-peak), from $130 (peak). CROCUS GERE BOR HOTEL: Tel 36/72-492-195; www.gere.hu. Cost: from $115; dinner $25. BEST TIMES: late Mar for Spring Festival of the arts; late Sep for Heritage Days Festival of dance, music, and wine.

  From the Medieval to the Art Nouveau

  OLD RIGA

  Latvia

  Set on the banks of the serene Daugava (Dvina) River, Riga looms large over the Baltics, with a stunningly preserved Old Town full of medieval treasures. But it is the concentrated enclave of gorgeous Art Nouveau (aka Jugendstil) buildings that sets this capital city apart: It ranks as the finest, most extensive collection in Europe and is the reason Riga is called “the Paris of the Baltics.”

  A wander through the cobblestones of Old Town reveals surprises at every turn, from the enormous Dome Cathedral (founded in 1211) to the House of Blackheads, a beautiful 14th-century guild hall with an elaborate Dutch Renaissance façade. Destroyed during World War II, it was painstakingly rebuilt after Latvia regained its independence in 1991. Next door is the stark and moving Latvian Museum of the Occupation, which provides a one-of-a-kind, eye-opening account of Latvian life under Nazi and Soviet rule.

  A few blocks north of Old Town, you’ll encounter Riga’s Art Nouveau/Jugendstil neighborhood. On Alberta Street and nearby Elizabetes Street, dozens of gloriously decorated buildings bear the stylized motifs and bold geometry of Riga’s reigning design aesthetic during an enormously creative period at the turn of the 20th century. After strolling the area, stop in the Riga Art Nouveau Museum, housed in a 1903 building.

  Two blocks from the museum you’ll find Vincents, one of Latvia’s finest restaurants, where local ingredients are used in Baltic creations that incorporate Scandinavian and subtle French accents. Vincents Martins Ritins is the chef and mastermind behind the cool, minimalist, and highly celebrated space.

  In Old Town, the Grand Palace Hotel, built as the State Bank in 1877, has 56 rooms with classical furnishings and handsome details. Impeccable service also reigns at the boutique Bergs Hotel, refurbished in a decidedly more contemporary style, with 38 spacious rooms. At the onsite Restaurant Bergs enjoy an alfresco dinner of rack of Welsh lamb or roast Barbary duck on the covered veranda during the warmer weather months. Sample a shot of Riga Black Balsam, a strong traditional liqueur, if you dare.

  Old Town’s reconstructed House of Blackheads was a medieval home for unmarried guild members.

  VISITOR INFO: www.liveriga.com. MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION: Tel 371/67212715; www.occupationmuseum.lv. RIGA ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM: Tel 371/6718-1464; www.jugendstils.riga.lv. VINCENTS: Tel 371/67332830; www.restorans.lv. Cost: dinner $90. GRAND PALACE HOTEL: Tel 371/6704-4000; www.grandpalaceriga.com. Cost: from $250. BERGS HOTEL: Tel 371/6777-0900; www.hotelbergs.lv. Cost: from $195 (off-peak), from $250 (peak); dinner $65. BEST TIMES: Jun–Aug for nicest weather; mid-Jun for Opera Festival; Jul for Riga Rhythm international music festival; Aug–Sep for Sacred Music Festival in the Dome Cathedral.

  Storied Castles and Bucolic Scenery

  GAUJA VALLEY

  Vidzeme, Latvia

  Although just 35 miles northeast of Riga, the enchanting landscapes of the Gauja Valley seem like they’re right out of a fairy tale. Amid pine-scented forests and lush, rolling countryside lie medieval castles, frozen-in-time villages, and archaeological sites dating back to the Bronze Age.

  Several charming towns make good bases for exploring the valley. In the east, Sigulda has long captivated visitors, with an idyllic location on a steep, wooded hillside overlooking the Gauja River. The area was first settled before 2000 B.C. by Finno-Ugric tribes, who built strategic fortifications along the hilltops. Sigulda’s oldest standing citadels date back to the 13th century and make for fascinating exploring.

  On the opposite side of the river lie the ruins of Krimulda Castle and the grand 19th-century Krimulda Manor. The best way to get there is to take the aerial cable car, which provides panoramic views over the river and countryside. From the castle, there are lovely walking trails and the chance to observe the rich flora and fauna of the Gauja Valley—some 150 bird and 50 mammal species inhabit this protected region.

  The most impressive stronghold is the redbrick Turaida Castle, whi
ch houses a museum covering medieval life under the Livonian state (1300s to 1500s). Take a walk along its impressive ramparts to see the surrounding pristine forest, which is but one reason why the ancient inhabitants called this Turaida, meaning “God’s Garden.” There’s also a 1750 wooden church and a sculpture garden dedicated to Latvia’s rich folkloric traditions.

  Sigulda offers a range of adventures, from hot-air balloon trips to an action-packed ride down a 4,000-foot-long bobsled track, open year-round. Ski slopes attract snow lovers come wintertime, and hikers come for the bucolic scenery in spring, summer, and autumn.

  The romantic town of Cēsis, which is 20 miles northeast of Sigulda, is another highlight of the Gauja. Its medieval center is lined with old stone buildings, and an imposing castle is surrounded by landscaped parks. You can sample local beer from the Cēsu Alus, one of the oldest breweries in the Baltics. Pristine wilderness lies just outside town, with access to the steep sandstone cliffs along the Gauja River some 3 miles to the north.

  WHERE: Sigulda is 33 miles/53 km northeast of Riga. VISITOR INFO: www.sigulda.lv. BEST TIMES: Apr–May for wildflowers; Jun–Aug for warm weather.

  Fragile Seascape of Beaches, Dunes, and Forests

  THE CURONIAN SPIT

  Lithuania

  Crisp, wildlife-filled pine forests, alluring beaches, and enormous dunes sweeping down to the sea set the stage for one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Baltic countries. Sometimes described as “the Sahara of Lithuania” because of its wildly shifting sands, the Curonian Spit has lush forests where deer, elk, and wild boar roam, plus traditional villages where fishermen still smoke their catch using age-old Curonian recipes. With its fragile ecology and unique ecosystems, the entire spit, which stretches for 60 miles (divided equally between Lithuania and Russia), is protected as national parks. It’s a major site for bird-watchers, with millions of migratory birds passing over in spring and autumn. You may spot gray herons, cormorants, and cranes, or brown kites, pink starlings, and peregrine falcons. The spit itself is narrow—less than a mile wide in parts—with gentle surf from the Baltic on one side and the peaceful Curonian Lagoon on the other.

  Owing to its unique surroundings of dunes and forests, and to its Germanic roots, the charming fishing village of Nida feels a world away from mainland Lithuania. In the early 20th century, the town, located about 30 miles south of mainland Klaipėda, became a colony for German Expressionist artists and intellectuals, and in the 1930s, it was a summer home for celebrated writer Thomas Mann. You can visit the cottage where the Nobel laureate lived and about which he penned, “It is truly impossible to write about the uniqueness and beauty of the nature of these environs.”

  From the town, it’s a short stroll to the scenic waterfront overlooking the Curonian Lagoon, where you can sign up for a memorable boat ride—local outfits offer everything from 2-hour sails to all-day fishing jaunts. The white sand beaches of the Baltic are less than a mile’s walk through pine forest. South of town lies the 170-foot-high Parnidis Dune, one of the highest in Europe. You can climb steps to the top, where you’ll find windswept views over the vast, rippling sands stretching to the south. There’s also an 18-mile cycling path through forest and along the seaside to the tiny village of Juodkrantė.

  WHERE: 191 miles/307 km west of Vilnius. VISITOR INFO: www.nerija.lt/en. THOMAS MANN MEMORIAL MUSEUM: Tel 370/4695-2260; www.mann.lt. WHERE TO STAY: In Nida, Misko Namas is a B&B in a historic wooden house with spacious rooms overlooking a garden. Tel 370/4695-2290; www.miskonamas.com. Cost: from $50 (off-peak), from $100 (peak). BEST TIMES: Jun–Aug for warmest weather; Mar–May and Sep–Oct for bird-watching.

  A Great Baroque Beauty

  OLD VILNIUS

  Vilnius, Lithuania

  The Old Town of Vilnius—one of the largest historic districts in Europe—is a magnificent canvas of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. Don’t miss the dramatic Vilnius Cathedral, which dates back to the 14th century. Above it looms Gediminas Castle, with sunset views over the city.

  Vilnius lacks some of the sophistication and glamour of its sister Baltic capitals of Riga and Tallinn (see pp. 304 and 295), whose German and Scandinavian influences are more apparent. The only inland Baltic capital, Vilnius is closer in feel to Poland and Russia. The cobblestone Pilies Gatvė is the buzzing main thoroughfare through the old quarter, with shops and cafés, buskers, and folk artists selling their wares. More than 40 centuries-old churches can be found along the narrow streets; 15th-century St. Anne’s is one of its most photogenic. Napoleon, visiting in 1812, said that he’d like to take the whole building back to Paris in the palm of his hand.

  Vilnius was once home to a thriving Jewish community. Visit the 1903 Moorish-inspired Choral Synagogue, just outside Old Town—it is one of the few prewar prayer houses still functioning. In the former headquarters of the KGB, the Museum of Genocide Victims is a quiet tribute to those imprisoned, tortured, or executed here and to the countless who were shipped off to Siberia.

  The city’s most sumptuous digs are the Stikliai Hotel, occupying a stately 17th-century Baroque residence. Or check into the 20-room Grotthuss boutique hotel whose common areas and elegant rooms are decorated with Italian-made furniture and the owner’s art collection. Its restaurant, La Pergola, serves beautifully prepared international cui-sine—and in the summer, you can dine in the courtyard in the back.

  VISITOR INFO: http://lietuva.lt/en. MUSEUM OF GENOCIDE VICTIMS: Tel 370/52497427; www.genocid.lt/muziejus/en. STIKLIAI HOTEL: Tel 370/5264-9595; www.stikliaihotel.lt. Cost: from $275. GROTTHUSS HOTEL: Tel 370/5266-0322; www.grotthusshotel.com. Cost: from $155; dinner $50. BEST TIMES: Jun–Aug for pleasant weather; late May–early Jul for Vilnius Music Festival.

  Fjordlike Wonder

  BAY OF KOTOR

  Montenegro

  Lord Byron described it as “the most beautiful encounter between land and the sea.” Limestone cliffs plunge into the deep blue, fjordlike Boka Kotorska (Bay of Kotor), where the waters of the Adriatic thrust deep into coastal highlands and steep mountains. Of this small country’s natural attractions, the Bay of Kotor takes best in show.

  At the head of the bay is the secluded, walled town of Kotor, one of the best-preserved medieval ports in Europe. Narrow, marbled streets and open squares are lined with medieval houses abutting grand Venetian-style palazzos, all dominated by the spires of six Romanesque churches, including the magnificent St. Tryphon Cathedral, dating back to 1166. Open-air markets proffer fresh figs, olives, and local cheeses, and the squares bustle with cafés. It is 1,300 steps up to St. John’s Fortress for unforgettable views.

  Kotor’s 3 miles of defensive stone walls are especially beautiful when illuminated at night. Built to repel foreigners, they now attract them, and Kotor has quickly adjusted to Montenegro’s sudden rise as a tourist hot spot. Cruise-ship passengers on their way to and from Venice (see p. 217) disembark for an afternoon; day-trippers from Dubrovnik (see p. 284), an hour’s drive away, fill the squares. Spend the night and you’ll have your pick of small Old Town restaurants, such as the family-owned Cesarica, with ancient, vaulted stone walls and excellent seafood dishes. With its lively street life, the area can be noisy at night, so consider sleeping in one of the neighboring seaside villages. A beautifully restored 18th-century villa, Palazzo Radomiri, stands on the bay front of Dobrota, a 5-minute drive or half-hour walk from Old Town. The stone villa’s original character has been carefully preserved, and it features a patio and pool, café, and ten elegant rooms with sea views. Also on the Dobrota waterfront, Forza Mare is a thoroughly modern small luxury hotel, with a restaurant and high-design suites. Once you’ve had your fill of Kotor, you can explore ancient towns like bay-front Perast or try some of Europe’s best whitewater rafting in the nearby Tara River Canyon.

  Perast reached its peak in the 18th century under the Republic of Venice.

  WHERE: 37 miles/60 km southeast of Dubrovnik, Croatia. CESARICA: Tel 382/32-336-093. Cost: dinner $50. PALAZZO RADOM
IRI: Tel 382/32-333-172; www.palazzoradomiri.com. Cost: from $125. When: closed Nov–Mar. FORZA MARE: Tel 382/32-333-500; www.forzamare.com. Cost: from $250. When: closed Dec–Mar. BEST TIMES: Mar–Jun and Sep–Oct for nice weather and fewer crowds; Jul and early Aug for Kotor Art festival.

  Highlights of the Adriatic Coast

  THE BUDVA RIVIERA AND SVETI STEFAN

  Montenegro

  Montenegro’s most stunning beaches stretch along the 62-mile expanse of mountainous coastline between Budva and the Albanian border, where only a few years ago, fishing villages snoozed in isolated beauty. This rugged coastline with fine, pink-tinged sand beaches has vaulted into international popularity since Montenegro gained its independence from Serbia in 2006. Today, big, flashy destination resorts rub shoulders there, yet you don’t have to look long to recapture the charming, old-world Montenegro.

  Budva is a major center for new beach resorts, but its pedestrian-only Stari Grad, or Old Town, is a lively, boutique- and café-filled vestige of medieval architecture. The most atmospheric place to stay in the quarter is at the Hotel Astoria, which mixes ancient stone walls and a clean modern style. Beaches are just a few strides away. Farther east, along Budva Bay, is the village of Rafailoviči, where the area’s best seafood restaurant, Tri Ribara (Three Fishermen), serves delicious, freshly caught grilled fish on its beachfront terrace.

  The coast’s showpiece can be found 5 minutes south of Budva: the hotel-village of Sveti Stefan, a cluster of 15th-century fishermen’s cottages built on a rocky outcrop in the emerald waters of the Adriatic. A partly walled islet sometimes called a Mediterranean Mont St-Michel, Sveti Stefan rises just one hundred yards from the mainland and is tethered to it by a narrow isthmus. In the 1950s, Yugoslav President Tito converted it into a jet-set resort that attracted a stream of celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Sophia Loren. Today, the revitalized hotel is operated by the exclusive Amanresorts and is a car-free showcase of ancient stone homes and exquisite modern luxury. Among its various restaurants, the most coveted table is at the open-air La Piazza, which serves refined interpretations of traditional Montenegrin cuisine and welcomes nonguests. Even more exclusive is the sister Villa Miločer on the mainland, a former royal residence transformed into eight sumptuous suites.