1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  DALI COURTYARD—This delightful dining experience can be found off Nanluo Guxiang, one of the Back Lakes district’s best-preserved alleyways. Set in a pretty hutong courtyard that catches the summer breezes and resounds to quiet jazz music, the friendly open-air restaurant specializes in the light, Vietnamese-influenced Yunnan cuisine of southwest China. Set menus save you the worry of knowing what to order; just relax and enjoy the romantic, slightly bohemian vibe and let the food come to you. Expect chili fish, dumplings, vegetables, papaya salad, and stir-fried chicken, among other light and delicious dishes. INFO: Tel 86/10-8404-1430. Cost: dinner $45.

  FAMILY LI RESTAURANT—This unusual dining spot serves just a dozen extremely lucky diners at a time. Here, six family members work ’round the clock to duplicate royal recipes from the Qing Dynasty, handed down by a grandparent who worked at the imperial court. Visiting diplomats, local expats, and ardent food lovers from around the world all make their way to this tiny restaurant, where the parade of subtly-flavored multiple courses is different for each of the three prix-fixe menus. Each is a revelation. INFO: Tel 86/10-6618-0107. Cost: dinner $65.

  FANGSHAN RESTAURANT—If your visit to the Forbidden City has fostered a fascination with all things imperial, spend an evening at this prestigious restaurant, preserving the extravagant cuisine of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911) since 1925, using the favored recipes of the 19th-century imperial court. In a lavish, theatrical setting, the staff (in vintage imperial garb) shows guests what it might have been like to dine with the last Dowager Empress, who employed 128 cooks. The kitchen produces over-the-top banquets and traditional delicacies such as shark’s fin or bird’s nest soup that are fit for a royal palate. Fangshan’s setting—an ancient pavilion on an island in the middle of Beihai Lake, just past the Bridge of Perfect Wisdom—couldn’t be more appropriate. INFO: Tel 86/10-6401-1879; www.fangshanfanzhuang.com.cn. Cost: dinner $45.

  BEIJING STREET FOOD—For the non-Chinese-speaking first-time visitor, Beijing can be frustrating—even more so for a food enthusiast hoping to sample local fare at the Wangfujing or Donghuamen night markets. Hias Gourmet Culinary Excursions offers private or small-group tours of market and street food, plus a tea-tasting safari through the Maliandao District. Go one step further with American-born author Jen Lin-Liu’s Black Sesame Kitchen, which hosts basic Chinese cooking classes in local hutong kitchens, as well as gourmet 10-course dinners with free-flowing wine. HIAS GOURMET: Tel 86/10-6400-9199; www.hiasgourmet.com. Cost: 2-hour scheduled tour $55. BLACK SESAME KITCHEN: Tel 86/1369-147-4408; www.blacksesamekitchen.com. Cost: communal dinner and cooking classes, each $40.

  Meat kebabs and deep-fried insects are sold at the night markets.

  DAY TRIPS

  THE GREAT WALL—Long a symbol of the country’s strength, the Great Wall of China has long captured the world’s imagination. It was built piecemeal over a period of 2,000 years as a defense against marauding nomadic tribes from the north, and in 221 B.C., various sections were connected to span some 3,750 miles. More than a million workers—peasants, soldiers, and prisoners—took part in the construction, building it wide enough to allow ten soldiers (or five horses) to travel abreast between the 10,000 battlements and watchtowers. Only one-third of the original wall remains, and on the average day its restored viewing points, near Beijing, are barely able to accommodate the hordes of tourists and souvenir hawkers. Still, a viewing of the Wall—following the contours of the serene mountains and valleys like an imperial ridge-backed dragon—is enormously impressive. A less touristy alternative is the section at Mutianyu or, better yet, at Simatai, where a half-hour hike will find you alone among soaring hawks and pine trees. Consider overnighting at the new Commune by the Great Wall, near the Shuiguan section; it’s an award-winning collection of contemporary villas by famous architects and designers, with private access to the Wall. WHERE: The restored mile-long section at Badaling is 50 miles/80 km northwest of downtown Beijing. Mutianyu and Simatai are 57 miles/91 km, 69 miles/111 km northeast of Beijing, respectively. THE COMMUNE BY THE GREAT WALL: Tel 86/10-8118-1888; www.commune.com.cn/en. Cost: from $290.

  Bricks, stones, wood, rammed earth, and tile make up the Great Wall.

  The Peace of the Thousand Buddhas

  MOGAO CAVES

  Dunhuang, Gansu, China

  For centuries, the busy Silk Road connected China’s western-desert oasis towns with Central Asia and beyond. Silk, cotton, jade, and wool traveled as far as Persia and Rome, while foreign goods and influences such as Buddhism and Islam were absorbed in return. Dunhuang, a remote garrison town on the southern Silk Route, boasts an incredible repository of Buddhist culture in a series of 492 man-made caves hidden in the desert just outside town. They were rediscovered by Taoist monk Wang Yuan Lu in 1900, who subsequently devoted 30 years to preserving the find, now recognized as the most significant Buddhist site in China. National tourism powers have rightfully positioned the Mogao Caves with the Great Wall (see previous page), Forbidden City (see p. 480), and Xi’an Warriors (see p. 495) as China’s peerless cultural attractions.

  Carved into the face of the valley wall between the 4th and 10th centuries and ultimately numbering more than 1,000, the cave temples housed sculptures, friezes, and frescoes; handwritten account books, court records, and embroidery were also unearthed. Visitors can trace Greek, Persian, and Hindu influences in the thousands of sculpted and intricately painted artworks. Giant stone Buddhas have maintained a millennium of serene smiles, while Tang Dynasty courtiers flaunt their costumes and mythical beasts roam. Among the highlights are the 116-foot brightly painted seated Buddha of Cave 96 and the peaceful, sleeping Buddha of Cave 148. An alternating selection of about 30 caves is open to the public at any one time. Guided tours last about 2 hours, with several routes offered simultaneously. If the ten caves you’ve seen are not enough, you can ask to view another ten.

  South of Dunhuang you’ll find yourself deep in the desert, surrounded by vast, sculpted sand dunes. The Minsha, or Singing Sand Mountain, is named for the curious sound the sand makes as the wind blows across its grains. The Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel offers tours to the caves and desert, and is impressive itself with mud walls that evoke a desert fortress. A rooftop patio provides a perfect vantage to watch the late-afternoon light play off the desert dunes. Or experience the sunrise aboard a camel—the hotel concierge can arrange it.

  WHERE: 1,146 miles/1,845 km west of Beijing. SILK ROAD DUNHUANG HOTEL: Tel 86/937-888-2088; www.dunhuangresort.com. Cost: from $60 (off-peak), from $120 (peak). BEST TIME: May–Oct for clear skies and cool evenings, though expect hot days Jul–Aug.

  The Magical China of Poets and Painters

  THE LI RIVER

  Guilin, Guangxi, China

  Guangxi Province, with its beautiful mountains and rivers, has been eulogized for 13 centuries by painters and writers who have tried to capture its unearthly landscape on paper. A cruise down the Li River is like floating through a classic Chinese scroll painting of mist, mountains, and rivers. From Guilin, the jade green Li winds through spectacular, almost surreal scenery of humpbacked and eroded karst formations with whimsical names like Bat Hill, Five Tigers Catch a Goat, and Painting Brush Peak. Tour boats ply past picturesque villages where young boys bathe the family water buffalo, women wash clothes, and farmers plow rice fields. A dwindling number of fishermen on bamboo rafts still train cormorants (mostly for the benefit of camera-wielding tourists) to dive and trap fish in their beaks.

  Some 50 miles downriver, the small town of Yangshuo is the southern terminus of these river cruises, and though it may not be the “real China”—cybercafés, B&Bs, and cafés offering “American Brunch” cater to foreign tourists—prices are low, the locals are friendly, and many people speak English. From here, day trips by bike over the surrounding green plains and the forest-covered limestone peaks allow you to see some of China’s most remarkable scenery. Some of the peaks can even be climbed: From the summit at Moon Rock, a dramatic army of jagged peaks g
oes marching off into the distance.

  During the evenings, the spectacular Impression: Third Sister (Sanjie) Liu is performed on the River Li with the dark mountain profile as the backdrop. Directed by the acclaimed Zhang Yimou (art director for the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games), this famous Chinese love story is enacted on a grand scale by a cast of more than 600 locals on hundreds of bamboo rafts.

  Peacefully removed some 20 miles from both Guilin and Yangshuo, the HOMA (Hotel of Modern Art) sits surrounded by lakes, rice paddies, and misty karst formations. The hotel’s innovative contemporary design extends to its 46 rooms and highlights its collection of more than 200 sculptures by international artists. In town, the fully renovated Sheraton Guilin Hotel is set right on the Li River.

  The Li River winds through some of China’s most prized scenery.

  WHERE: Cruises begin in Guilin, 323 miles/520 km northwest of Hong Kong. IMPRESSION: THIRD SISTER LIU: Tickets can be arranged by any hotel or travel agency in Yangshuo. Cost: $30. HOMA: Tel 86/773-386-5555; www.guilinhoma.com. Cost: $365 (off-peak), $660 (peak). SHERATON GUILIN HOTEL: Tel 86/773-2825-588; www.sheraton.com. Cost: $120. BEST TIMES: Apr and Sep–Oct for nicest weather.

  “A city-state like no other, spectacularly unique . . . a boast, a marvel and a show, whirling away night and day in the South China Sea.”—JAN MORRIS

  HONG KONG

  China

  The lure of Hong Kong is immediate: Flashing neon lights, a dazzling harbor skyline, and crowded sidewalks surging with humanity highlight the fast-paced, exciting side of this classic East-meets-West city. But Hong Kong is also full of alternative activities and hidden surprises, with traditional ways of life, tranquil green spaces, and offshore islands, revealing a more contemplative side to the former colonial territory. Visitors who know where to look will find both.

  TOP ATTRACTIONS

  VICTORIA HARBOUR—The busy Victoria Harbour, China’s most important after Shanghai, is the soul and centerpiece of this dynamic port city, and the place for which Hong Kong (Fragrant Harbour) was named. At any given hour, its crowded waters host a round of bumper boats, as the Star Ferry threads its way through a melee of tugs, barges, commuter boats, and the occasional junk, sampan, and gleaming cruise ship. The two-tiered green-and-white ferries transport visitors and commuters from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island and back. It is one of the world’s most unforgettable 10-minute ferry rides—not only for the drama of the round-the-clock aquatic rush hour, but to view Hong Kong’s granite forest of skyscraping banks and trading companies that stand as expressionless monoliths by day, illuminated towers of energy by night. (Nightly at 8:00 P.M., weather permitting, the Symphony of Lights laser show is cast on the skyscrapers’ façades; it is best viewed from a harbor cruise.) Go first class for pennies more—the upper deck guarantees a better perspective. Then again, second class promises better people-watching. INFO: Tel 852/2118-6208; www.starferry.com.hk.

  VICTORIA PEAK—Spectacular views are to be had via one of the world’s steepest funicular railways, which makes the climb to the 1,811-foot Victoria Peak. Up top you can marvel at the indefatigably busy harbor, some of the 200-plus outer islands dotting the South China Sea, and, when the weather is clear, the distant coast of mainland China. Landscaped gardens and paved paths such as Governor’s Walk provide quiet, solitude, and greenery. Peak Tower boasts 360-degree views at its multilevel Sky Terrace (shaped like an upside-down wok), which houses a variety of restaurants—from fast food to the stylish Tien Yi Restaurant, whose dim sum is best savored at a harbor-view table. While every time of day has its own magic, dusk may be the most special, when an orgy of neon begins to grip the “Manhattan of Asia.” INFO: Tel 852/2522-0922; www.thepeak.com.hk/en. TIEN YI RESTAURANT: Tel 852/2907-3888; www.rcgastronomic.com. Cost: lunch $40.

  CHI LIN NUNNERY—In the middle of the organized chaos that is Hong Kong, Chi Lin Nunnery is a garden of utter peace and tranquility. This timeless Buddhist complex is an impeccable 1998 re-creation of ancient Tang Dynasty architecture. Comprising 16 halls made of timber without the use of nails, it’s surrounded by meditative gardens filled with lotus ponds, artful rockeries, and carefully tended bonsai plants and frangipani flowers. Venture away from the nunnery on a pathway leading to the Nan Lian Garden for an even more serene oasis—a great place to relax and enjoy a cup of tea in the mini-gazebo before stepping back into the maelstrom of the city. INFO: Tel 852/2354-1888.

  HAPPY VALLEY RACECOURSE—On Wednesday evenings from September to early July, there’s one be-there destination: Happy Valley Racecourse, one of the city’s very few legal gambling options and where winnings are tax-free. Win or lose, the exuberance of the crowd and the brightly lit night racing makes the experience a winner. Introduced by the British more than 150 years ago, horse racing is the most popular sporting event in Hong Kong, with Wednesday nights topping the bill. There are weekend races at the larger and more modern Sha Tin, in the New Territories suburbs. Major corporations do their entertaining in private boxes here, while the general public gets standing room only. Tourists with a passport can avoid the latter by purchasing a temporary Jockey Club Membership badge to enter the exclusive club area. INFO: Tel 852/2966-8111; happyvalleyracecourse.com. SHA TIN: Tel 852/2966-6520; www.hkjc.com.

  HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY—Start your Hong Kong exploration here and your stay will be twice as rich. This new museum magically re-creates historical city streets, providing an in-depth feel of Hong Kong from its beginnings up to its 1997 reunification with China. Thousands of exhibits, with audiovisual and lighting effects, multimedia programs, and a re-created arcaded street from 1881—complete with an authentic, relocated herbal medicine shop—also cover the region’s natural history and ethnography, beginning 6,000 years ago. INFO: Tel 852/2724-9042; http://hk.history.museum.

  TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS—The impressive name for this surprising monastery is actually an understatement, as its 20 acres of grounds hold between 12,000 and 13,000 Buddhas. The winding entrance path, followed by the 400-plus steps up to the main temple, is lined with life-size Buddhas in various poses. Founded by Yuet Kai when he arrived in Hong Kong in 1933 to preach Buddhism and establish a Buddhist college, the monastery was built starting in 1949. It took Yuet Kai and his disciples 8 years to carry the building materials from the foot of the mountain and to complete construction—and another 10 years to install the thousands of Buddhas. At the top, reward yourself with a delicious do fu fa (tofu custard), sold in the temple courtyard. INFO: Tel 852/2691-1067.

  Some 400 steps up a steep incline lead to the monastery of Ten Thousand Buddhas.

  THE NEW TERRITORIES—Despite rapidly becoming the “suburbs” of Hong Kong, the New Territories (NT) offer miles of treks through surprisingly lush countryside—some to pristine beaches and others on trails that have been used for 400 years, wending through ancient villages and farmland. Sitting alongside Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, the NT are the third main region of Hong Kong, with 75 percent of its outer stretches of terrain (including 200 outlying islands) remaining wild—too steep to be cultivated or developed. Almost 40 percent of the countryside is committed to conservation and recreation, offering perfect hiking trails just minutes from the 24/7 congestion of the city. HOW: Hansens Hikes leads treks and private tours. Tel 852/9552-0987; www.hansens-hikes.com.

  FESTIVALS

  CHINESE NEW YEAR—The Chinese love their festivals, and Chinese New Year’s Eve in Hong Kong may just rate as the most joyous annual revelry on earth alongside Carnaval in Rio (see p. 1012) or Mardi Gras in New Orleans (see p. 797). Celebrated over a nearly three-week period, with the New Year itself falling on any date between January 21 and February 20, Hong Kong turns into a huge, vibrant flower market, with decorated floats, performers, and dancers parading through the Tsim Sha Tsui district. Sporting events, lantern carnivals, and much more all lead up to a final, fantastic fireworks display launched off barges in Victoria Harbour (see p. 487), with buildings lit up to complement the
show. INFO: www.discoverhongkong.com.

  DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL—According to legend, a young, beloved scholar, Tuen Ng, drowned himself in a bid to expose corrupt rulers more than 2,000 years ago. When locals heard, they set off in boats to find him, banged on drums, and threw rice in the water while beating the water with their paddles to stop the fish from eating him. He could not be saved, but since 1976 the legend is honored in Hong Kong on the fifth day of the fifth month on the Chinese calendar (early June), when hundreds of teams in ornately decorated boats compete fiercely in one of the most exciting events of the year—likened to an adrenaline-charged version of the Oxford and Cambridge boat races. INFO: www.discoverhongkong.com; for racing schedules, www.dragonboat.org.hk.

  MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL—Sometimes known as the Lantern (or Moon Cake) Festival, this is Hong Kong’s biggest except for Chinese New Year. For three nights in September, straddling the harvest moon (when it is at its brightest and biggest), families gather in parks and on peaks to light lanterns in all colors, shapes, and sizes and to eat moon cakes, pastries filled with a sweet lotus-seed paste. Many legends are associated with this festival, including an uprising against the Mongols in the 14th century, when a rebel movement hid notes in moon cakes instructing readers to “rise against the Tartars on the 15th day of the eighth moon.” The rebellion was a success, and is commemorated on just that day. INFO: www.discoverhongkong.com.