1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  The Hozo Mon gate leads toward Senso-ji’s main hall.

  TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM—Since its opening in 1872, the Tokyo National Museum has been through many address and name changes, a closing during World War II, and even earthquake damage, to emerge today as the oldest and largest museum in Japan. Four main buildings collectively house over 110,000 objects, with more than 3,000 on display at any one time. The main gallery, the Honkan, is devoted to Japanese art chronologically organized from 10,000 B.C. to the late 19th century, while the Toyokan houses Asian art and archaeological artifacts from outside Japan, including China, Korea, Cambodia, India, Iran, and Turkey, even a mummy from Egypt. The Heiseikan is home to Japanese archaeological relics, including pottery and Haniwa clay burial figurines of the Jomon Period (10,000–1000 B.C.); the Horyu-ji Homotsukan displays priceless Buddhist treasures from Nara’s Horyu Temple. INFO: Tel 81/3-3822-1111; www.tnm.go.jp/en/.

  CRUISING TOKYO—During the Edo period almost all of Tokyo’s rivers and canals were busy thoroughfares of commerce, but when wheeled transport grew more popular, many slipped into decay or were built over. In recent years, however, water traffic along the city’s main river, the Sumida, has increased, and taking one of its regular boat services provides a fascinating alternative view of Tokyo. Starting from Hinode Pier, the boat sails up the river, passing first between Tsukiji Fish Market (see next page) and Tsukuda Island, which escaped the worst of the World War II bombing and remains a center of old Edo culture. The boat passes under 12 bridges, each painted a different color and lit up at night. Depart the boat at Asakusa, a perfect spot from where you can walk to the Senso-ji (see previous page). If heading in the opposite direction, get off at Tsukiji and walk just 5 minutes to the beautiful bayside garden Hama Rikyu Teien. HOW: Tokyo Cruise Ship Company operates a variety of routes. Tel 81/120-977311; www.suijobus.co.jp.

  SUMO WRESTLING—The rules of the game are simple: Pit two extremely large rikishi (wrestlers, generally over 300 pounds) wearing silk loincloths and elaborate hairdos in a ring against each other, and the one who goes over the boundaries or touches the ground with his body (aside from the soles of his feet) is the loser. Tournaments (called basho) lasting 15 days are held six times a year—three of them in Tokyo (January, May, and September), with matches between newcomers beginning in early afternoon and top-ranked ozeki and yokozuna (grand champions) competing later in the day. Tokyo tournaments are held in the National Sumo Stadium (Kokugikan) in Ryogoku. Some of the training stables (heya) are situated near the Kokugikan, and visits can be arranged via the Tokyo Tourist Information Center (TIC). NIHON SUMO KYOKAI TICKET SALES OFFICE: Tel 81/3-3622-1100; www.sumo.or.jp/eng/. TIC TOKYO: Tel 81/3-5321-3077; www.tictokyo.jp/en.

  Sumo wrestlers dress in ceremonial kesho-mawashi.

  SHOPPING—The Japanese love to shop and Tokyo is the jackpot. There are areas devoted to certain items, such as kitchenware (Kappabashi, near Asakusa), electronic goods and computers (Akihabara), and food (Tsukiji; see below). Ginza and neighboring Nihombashi have long been the domain of high-end boutiques and venerable department stores such as Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya. Stiff competition comes from the tree-lined avenue Omotesando in Aoyama, home to some of Tokyo’s classiest fashion labels (including the dazzling Prada building). Younger shoppers will appreciate the funky emporiums of “Cat” Street and Takeshita-dori in Harajuku, and the buzz of Shibuya. Marunouchi, between the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station, has also undergone a major retail revamp, morphing from an area of nondescript office buildings into a glitzy shopping corridor, particularly along Naka-dori.

  TSUKIJI FISH MARKET—Jet lag can be a wonderful thing. If you find yourself wide awake at 5:00 A.M. and in the mood for some predawn action, the cavernous wholesale Tsukiji Fish Market seethes with activity, as you would expect at the place that supplies 90 percent of the fish consumed in Tokyo (over 2,000 tons per day). Wander this staggering market’s aisles; you won’t believe some of the things considered edible, much less prized delicacies. In a country where fresh seafood reigns supreme, maguro (tuna) is king: Frozen, torpedo-size tunas (one fish alone can weigh more than 1,000 pounds) are hauled in from the fishing boats alongside the market’s riverside piers or flown in from as far away as Africa. No one guarantees fresher fish nor a wider variety than the market’s no-frills sushi bars, such as Sushi Dai. INFO: Tel 81/3-3547-8011; www.tsukiji-market.or.jp. SUSHI DAI: Tel 81/3-3547-6797. Cost: 10-piece sushi meal $45.

  ROPPONGI ART TRIANGLE—For decades Roppongi has been one of Tokyo’s liveliest and most foreigner-friendly nightlife districts, and in recent years, the area has taken on a more sophisticated tone. At the summit of the 54-story Mori Tower, in Roppongi Hills, is the impressive Mori Art Museum, one point of the so-called Roppongi Art Triangle. Another is Suntory Museum of Art (known for its collection of exquisite traditional ceramics, lacquerware, textiles, and art) in Tokyo Midtown. The last point is the National Art Center Tokyo, set in a stunning building designed by Kisho Kurokawa, the architect who founded the Metabolist movement. Spend a day exploring these institutions as well as the 21_21 Design Sight, a cutting-edge, design-dedicated facility that is the brainchild of fashion designer Issey Miyake and architect Tadao Ando. MORI ART MUSEUM: Tel 81/3-6406-6100; www.mori.art.museum. SUNTORY MUSEUM OF ART: Tel 81/3-3479-8600; www.suntory.com/culture-sports/sma. NATIONAL ART CENTER TOKYO: Tel 81/3-6812-9900; www.nact.jp. 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT: Tel 81/3-3475-2121; www.2121designsight.jp.

  YANAKA—Natural and man-made disasters plus a seemingly insatiable need for change have conspired to destroy and rebuild Tokyo to the point that it is practically impossible to find anything of old Edo (the name of the capital prior to 1868). This is what makes Yanaka, a charming district north of the rail hub of Ueno, so miraculous. Accessed from Nippori Station, it is a short walk to Yanaka Cemetery, a leafy enclave that is the resting place of the last Tokugawa Shogun, Yoshinobu, and to the pedestrian street of Yanaka Ginza, lined with small neighborhood shops selling handcrafted slippers, chopsticks, baskets, fine teas, and rice crackers. Meander around the residential area and you’ll find small temples and shrines, picturesque wooden houses, and sturdy traditional storehouses turned into galleries, such as Oguraya, once a mid-19th-century pawnbroker’s shop, as well as the venerable traditional paper shop Isetatsu. OGURAYA: Tel 81/3-3828-0562; www.oguraya.gr.jp. ISETATSU: Tel 81/3-3823-1453.

  WHERE TO STAY

  CLASKA—As super chic as an Issey Miyake outfit, Claska is one of the few bona fide boutique hotels in Tokyo, a fabulous mix of traditional and contemporary Japanese design. The choice destination for Tokyo’s hipsters, Claska features a stylish lobby café/bar, a dog grooming salon, and the gift shop, Do, which stocks a must-have array of modern Japanese designer wares. There are just nine guest rooms: some with modern Japanese furnishings, some with more traditional tatami (mat flooring) style, and three “DIY” rooms individually conceptualized by different local artists. Although not based in the most convenient area for sightseeing, Claska, on a busy shopping street in a residential neighborhood, is just a short taxi ride to Meguro Station. INFO: Tel 81/3-3719-8121; www.claska.com. Cost: from $240.

  PARK HOTEL TOKYO—The elegantly designed Park Hotel Tokyo is a more affordable alternative to the Park Hyatt Hotel (with which it is sometimes confused—both opened in 2003). The lobby of the hotel is on the 25th floor, with 273 guest rooms on the 26th to 34th floors, and it’s a short walk to Shiodome Station. The rooms may be smaller, but the facilities are ultramodern and the Tokyo views just as sweeping—on a clear day you can see Mt. Fuji. A helpful staff offers to arrange sightseeing or tickets to a sumo wrestling show, and you can catch a flower-arranging class at the on-site, well-known Constance Spry Flower School. INFO: Tel 81/3-6252-1100; www.parkhotel tokyo.com. Cost: from $320.

  PARK HYATT—This chic and sophisticated hotel (immortalized in the 2003 film Lost in Translation) occupies the top floors of a futuristic 52-story skyscraper, one of the city’s most dramatic. The largest guest rooms in Tokyo
come equipped with every gadget and top line amenity (including huge bathrooms) and offer superlative views of the surrounding Shinjuku district and distant Mount Fuji (see p. 518). The Hyatt’s brace of restaurants were some of the first to bring an unprecedented level of sophistication to Tokyo. Reserve a window-front table at the starkly beautiful Japanese restaurant Kozue; or opt for the stylish, super-trendy top-floor New York Grill, with two-story windows, an amazing 1,600-bottle wine cellar, gallery-quality original art, and a Sunday brunch that is legendary. INFO: Tel 81/3-5322-1234; in the U.S., 800-233-1234; www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com. Cost: from $500; dinner at Kozue $150, at New York Grill $100.

  PENINSULA TOKYO HOTEL—Overlooking the Imperial Palace and Hibiya Park, the 24-story Peninsula Hotel occupies an entire block adjacent to the upscale Ginza and Marunouchi shopping districts (see previous page). Designed to look like a giant Japanese lantern, the Peninsula exudes elegance and class like its sister hotel in Hong Kong (see p. 492), and taking afternoon tea in the lobby is a decadent treat. The luxurious guest rooms are international in design, but Japanese by inspiration, blending rich earth tones with lacquered wood and marble bathrooms. The award-winning restaurant Peter, on the 24th floor, offers a modern interior that is sensual, playful, and theatrical, and chef Patrice Martineau creates internationally inspired cuisine and signature dishes, including Hokkaido zuwaigani crab. INFO: Tel 81/3-6270-2888; www.peninsula.com. Cost: from $725; prix-fixe dinner at Peter $95.

  SUKEROKU-NO-YADO SADACHIYO—Tokyo isn’t known for its ryokans (traditional Japanese lodgings more commonly found in Kyoto; see p. 514). However, if you’re in search of somewhere to stay that harks back to the Edo era, then a fine option is Sukerokuno-Yado Sadachiyo, a delightful inn just steps away from Senso-ji temple in the heart of Asakusa (see p. 519). The 20 spacious, traditionally decorated tatami rooms have the advantage of private bathrooms (not common among ryokans), with guests also having access to the communal wood-and-stone Japanese-style baths. A stay at a ryokan is as much about the delicious and beautifully presented kaiseki-style meals that are offered (upon advance request), and the Sukeroku-no-Yado Sadachiyo doesn’t disappoint. The accommodating management can arrange performances of traditional arts, including geisha dances—another rarity in Tokyo. INFO: Tel 81/3-3842-6431; www.sadachiyo.co.jp. Cost: from $230.

  EATING & DRINKING

  HANTEI—A short walk from Nezu subway station and easily combined with a stroll around Yanaka (see p. 521) is a visit to this fine, inexpensive restaurant specializing in kushiage—deep-fried pieces of meat, fish, and vegetables skewered on sticks. These tasty morsels are served six sticks at a time with a few appetizers, and you keep ordering until you’re full. Part of the pleasure is dining inside a beautiful old three-story wooden house built around a stonewalled kura (storehouse). INFO: Tel 81/3-3828-1440. Cost: dinner $35.

  INAKAYA—The first Tokyo location of this robatayaki (a restaurant specialized in Japanese-style grilling) opened over 30 years ago in Roppongi and has two more outlets in the city today. Although it is tourist oriented, it is also a fun, delicious place for dinner, frequented by locals too. Customers sit around long U-shaped counters, and kneeling male chefs in traditional garb offer a selection of fresh vegetables, meat, fish, and seafood. You point to what you want (scallops, steak, eggplant), your waiter yells it out, the chef shouts back his confirmation and then grills it. In minutes your sizzling meal is served to you on an 8-foot wooden paddle. INFO: Tel 81/3-5775-1012; www.roppongiinakaya.jp. Cost: dinner $75.

  KUROSAWA—Named after the illustrious movie director Akira Kurosawa, this atmospheric restaurant specializes in freshly made soba (buckwheat noodles) and dishes such as shabu shabu (a kind of DIY hot-pot meal) made with cuts of the finest quality pork and beef. Favored by politicians from the nearby Diet Building, Japan’s parliament building, the two-story restaurant is styled like a set from one of the director’s samurai dramas. Downstairs is the section for noodles; the more formal upstairs is for pork-based banquets. Three other Kurosawas in town specialize in other Japanese cuisines. INFO: Tel 81/3-3580-9638; http://9638.net/eng. Cost: noodles $10, pork-based meal $60.

  MAISEN—Tonkatsu is a meal of tender deep-fried breaded pork cutlets, traditionally served on a bed of shredded cabbage with a spicy, dark brown sauce, along with a steaming bowl of rice, pickles, and miso soup. When done right, it is delicious, satisfying, and easy on the pocketbook. One exemplary Tokyo tonkatsu restaurant is Maisen, housed in a cleverly converted pre-World War I public bathhouse a short stroll from the trendy shopping boulevard of Omotesando into the backstreets of Harajuku. Various cuts of breaded pork are their specialty, but there are a few tasty alternatives such as deep-fried fish or giant prawns. INFO: Tel 81/3-3470-0071; http://mai-sen.com. Cost: dinner $30.

  SHUNJU—Drinking is seldom done without eating in Japan, and izakaya are publike places serving alcohol—principally sake (rice wine), shochu (a grain spirit like vodka), or beer—alongside a tasty menu of food. Among the most stylish of Tokyo’s many izakaya is a small chain called Shunju. The Tameiki-Sanno branch, atop the Sanno Park Tower, is more restaurant than bar, offering panoramic views from its double-story windows, a chic interior, and dishes showcasing the freshest seasonal ingredients. The Tsugihagi branch, opposite the Imperial Hotel, is in a basement, but the décor is very imaginative and the dining space intimate; choose from sushi, premium grilled seafood, and tofu made at your table. INFO: Tameiki-Sanno, tel 81/3-3592-5288; Tsugihagi, tel 81/3-3595-0511; www.shunju.com/ja. Cost: dinner $80.

  TOKYO FOOD—Dining in Tokyo is incredibly exciting; the level of food preparation is exceptional and can be highly specialized. Some sushi restaurants serve only certain types of sushi like oshizushi (pressed sushi) or inarizushi (deep-fried tofu), while others may specialize in a particular type of noodle or regional cuisine. All Tokyoites know that department-store basements (depachika) are where you’ll find the finest groceries, or where to find the best restaurants for kaiseki— meticulously prepared, traditional meals built around seasonal ingredients. Sign up for one of the food-themed “safaris” organized by Bespoke Tokyo, a company that specializes in connecting visitors to the pulse of modern Japan through tailor-made programs. BESPOKE TOKYO: www.bespoketokyo.jp.

  DAY TRIPS

  KAMAKURA—Minamoto no Yoritomo, Japan’s first shogun, chose this natural seaside fortress as his capital in the late 12th century. In this beautiful setting are 65 Buddhist temples and 19 Shinto shrines, including Kotoku-in temple, location of the bronze Great Buddha (Daibutsu). Cast in 1292, sitting 37 feet high, and weighing 93 tons, the Daibutsu was originally housed in a wooden temple that was washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Since then, the loving Buddha has remained exposed to the elements. Nearby is one of the most beautiful temples in Kamakura, Hase-dera. Leading up the stone steps to the temple grounds are hundreds of small stone images of Jizo, the savior of children. Its Kannon Hall is home to the largest carved wooden statue in Japan, the 8th-century figure of Juichimen Kannon, an 11-headed goddess of mercy, standing 30 feet tall and bearing a crown of 10 smaller heads, allowing her to see in all directions for those in need of her compassion. WHERE: Kanagawa Prefecture, 25 miles/40 km southwest of Tokyo; www.kanagawa-kankou.or.jp/.

  One of the largest bronzes in Japan, the Great Buddha at Kamakura sits peacefully, with no cover to protect it from the elements.

  NIKKO—Surrounded by a mountainous national park with miles of outstanding walking trails and a breathtaking waterfall, the small town of Nikko, really just one street about 1 mile long, is home to one of Japan’s best-known and most opulent shrines, the fabulously decorated Tosho-gu Shrine. Built in the 17th century, Tosho-gu is the burial place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, famous as the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. A mixture of Shinto and Buddhist elements and elaborate carvings decorated with vibrant colors and gold leaf give the shrine complex a distinctly Chinese style. Thousands of tourists visit this shrine, especially on May 17 and 18, when a procession of hundreds of men in authe
ntic samurai costume re-create the moving of Shogun Ieyasu’s body from the Shizuoka prefecture to Nikko. Surrounding temples include the Futarasan-jinja shrine and the Buddhist Temple of Rinno-ji. WHERE: Tochigi Prefecture, 74 miles/119 km north of Tokyo. VISITOR INFO: www.nikko-jp.org/english/.

  The Smallest Island with the Biggest Heart

  SHIKOKU ISLAND

  Japan

  Exquisite scenery, including craggy mountains, dramatic sea cliffs, historical castles, and villages with 300-year-old craft shops, along with excellent river rafting, and easy cycling are just a few of the delights that make Shikoku extraordinary. But most of all, Shikoku, the smallest (at 7,260 square miles) and least visited of Japan’s four main islands, is loved for its friendliness.

  Every year thousands of pilgrims (henro-san) pay their respects at the island’s 88 temples, following in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect in the 9th century. It is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes in the world (the other being the road to Santiago de Compostela in Spain; see p. 265) and takes over 2 months if done on foot. For those without the time or stamina for the full trek, the highlights of Shikoku’s four prefectures—Kagawa, Tokushima, Kochi, and Ehime—can be enjoyed in a “circuit” lasting around a week.