1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  To escape the teeming carnival of street life, repair to the exquisite Oberoi Rajvilas hotel, just a few miles outside of town, where the fantasy of Rajasthan’s princely life lives on. This 32-acre oasis of exotic pavilions, pools, open courtyards, and fountains, with a pink fortress at its heart, looks like a royal village that has always been here, although it was actually built in 1997, the first of India’s new luxury hotels. Relax in one of the teak-floored, ultraluxe royal tents, and visit the spa for an Ayurvedic shirodhara treatment. For Jaipur’s real-deal princely homes—historic digs redolent of the days of the maharajas, where overnight guests are welcomed—stay at the Samode Palace Hotel, the Samode Haveli, the Taj Rambagh Palace (for information on these see p. 547), or any of Udaipur’s opulent contenders such as the inimitable Taj Lake Palace (see p. 549).

  The architect of the palace, with its many perforated balconies and crown-like shape, also planned Jaipur city.

  WHERE: 162 miles/260 km from New Delhi. OBEROI RAJVILAS: Tel 91/141-268-0101; in the U.S., 800-562-3764; www.oberoihotels.com. Cost: from $775. BEST TIMES: Sep–Mar for pleasant weather; sunrise and late afternoon, when the palace glows; late Feb or Mar for the festival of Holi; Jul–Aug for premonsoon Teej Festival, dedicated to the goddess Parvati.

  A Giant Sand Castle in the Heart of the Great Indian Desert

  JAISALMER

  Rajasthan, India

  Known as the “Golden City,” this once-important caravan stop on the route to the Khyber Pass is famed for its 12th-century sandstone fortress that rises from the desert floor, its crenellated walls, 99 bastions, and medieval silhouette soaring into the sapphire sky as if it were a mirage. Jaisalmer is the only functioning fortress city in India—one of the few left in the world—with one quarter of its population living within the Sonar Killa, or Golden Fort. Just 40 miles from the Pakistani border, it languished for years as a little-visited backwater, but now even the luxury Palace on Wheels train (see p. 550) makes a stop in Rajasthan’s most beguiling desert town.

  The city’s wealth originally came from the heavy levies it placed on camel caravans that passed through. Noblemen and merchants used that income to build handsome havelis (ornate town houses and mansions), which are distinguished by façades and balconies elaborately carved from the local golden stone. A number of them have been reborn as hotels, such as the 300-year-old Nachana Haveli, which is outside the fort and owned and run by the royal family of Jaisalmer. Twelve guest rooms are eclectically decorated with family portraits and memorabilia. Saffron, its rooftop restaurant, offers dishes made from family recipes and superb sunset views of the fort.

  For nomadic glamour in the middle of nowhere, head 45 minutes outside town to The Serai, whose elegantly spare, campaign-style tents (some with plunge pools) and small spa have brought a new level of luxury to the Thar Desert (aka Great Indian Desert). Sign up for a jeep or camel jaunt onto the shifting sands of the surrounding dunes and enjoy sundowners while local musicians serenade you. The canopy of stars is breathtaking at night, when the encampment is all movie-set romance, lit with candles and lanterns.

  During the full moon in January or February, the exotic Desert Festival of Jaisalmer is held over three days, featuring music, dancing, and camel polo and races. The highlights are the fire dancers and the moustache competition, though it’s really all about the people in brilliant saris and turbans, who come from distant corners of the desert to celebrate.

  The bright saris of Jaisalmer women offset the drab colors of the Thar Desert.

  WHERE: 177 miles/285 km from Jodhpur. NACHANA HAVELI: Tel 91/29-9225-5565; www.nachanahaveli.com. Cost: from $65. THE SERAI: Tel 91/11-4606-7608; www.the-serai.com. Cost: double tents from $650. When: Sep–Mar. BEST TIMES: Oct–Feb for weather and camel safaris; Jan or Feb for the Desert Festival.

  Luxury Accommodations Fit for a King

  MAHARAJA PALACE HOTELS

  Jodhpur and Jaipur, Rajasthan, India

  India’s most colorful state, Rajasthan, isn’t called the Land of Kings for nothing. The fabulously wealthy maharajas built hundreds of rambling palaces and hilltop forts, many of them restored and converted into one-of-a-kind hotels after the once-powerful rulers were stripped of their regal stipends following independence in 1947 but allowed to keep their real estate. And what real estate it is; the cleverest opened their palace doors in their newfound roles as hoteliers, offering an all-out Passage to India fantasy for overnight guests who were willing to pay.

  The most imposing hotel of them all is the Anglo-Indian Umaid Bhawan Palace, perched high above the “Blue City” of Jodhpur. One of the largest private residences and the last royal palace ever built in Rajasthan, it was commissioned in 1929 and its construction employed 3,000 artisans and laborers as a famine-relief project organized by Maharaja Umaid Singh for his subjects; it took 15 years to complete. The building, extravagant even by maharaja standards, is unique for its Art Deco details. Fifty-five of the palace’s 347 grandest rooms now serve as a deluxe hotel; the rest is a museum of glorious paintings and armor along with a private wing where the current maharaja and his family reside. Dine in the pavilion for views of Jodhpur’s outstanding 15th-century Mehrangarh Fort—“the work of angels and giants,” according to Rudyard Kipling.

  Jaipur (see p. 544) is the heart of Rajasthan and the location of the Samode Haveli, a 22-room jewel-box hotel originally built as a city residence for a prime minister of the royal court. A sumptuous oasis amid the hectic city—with courtyards, original colored windows, mirror inlay, archways, and frescoes of flowers and court life scenes—it brims with the spirit of old Jaipur. For a look at a royal country idyll, head just outside town to the exquisite Samode Palace Hotel, a luxurious 18th-century retreat that was used for holidays and special events. Both hotels are privately owned and run by the Samode royal family.

  Jaipur’s grandest estate, however, is the Rambagh Palace, built in 1835 on a modest scale for the queen’s favorite handmaidens and later refurbished as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge. It was transformed in 1925 into the royal residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and became India’s first heritage palace hotel in 1957. Sumptuous accommodations at the “Jewel of Jaipur” include the Maharani Suite, which was built as a surprise gift from Maharaja Jai to his third and favorite bride, Maharani Gayatri Devi.

  Hand-painted accents and glasswork contribute to the opulence of Samode Palace Hotel.

  UMAID BHAWAN PALACE: Tel 91/291-510-101; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: from $320 (off-peak), from $965 (peak). SAMODE HAVELI AND SAMODE PALACE: Tel 91/141-263-2370; www.samode.com. Cost: Haveli from $175, Palace from $220 (off-peak), from $400 (peak). TAJ RAMBAGH PALACE: Tel 91/141-221-1919; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: from $320 (off-peak), from $945 (peak). HOW: U.S.-based Ker & Downey offers a 13-day Royal India trip that includes most of these properties. Tel 800-423-4236 or 281-371-2500; www.kerdowney.com. Cost: from $7,115. Originates in Delhi. BEST TIMES: Oct–Mar for nicest weather; Oct for the Jodhpur Folk Festival in Mehrangarh Fort.

  A Tribal Gathering Unlike Any Other

  THE PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR

  Pushkar, Rajasthan, India

  In Rajasthan, livestock breeding flourished under the maharajas, who maintained legions of camels for warfare, while commoners relied upon them for the tasks of daily life. The arrival of the automobile largely sidelined this beast of burden, but you can still see the legacy of those times at the annual Pushkar Camel Fair. It’s not the only animal market in Rajasthan’s Thar Desert; however, it is certainly the largest and is unequaled for music, costumes, and festivities.

  Rajasthan has the largest concentration of tribal people in India, and they converge by the tens of thousands on the tiny lakeside town of Pushkar every November shortly before the full moon. They parade, race, trade, and sell their prized dromedaries, some 50,000 in number, which have been groomed and festooned for the occasion. Rajasthanis are known for their love of brilliant clothing colors, so the human partic
ipants can outshine the steeds with their jewelry, saris, and turbans, which helps explain the festival’s popularity with foreign tourists, filmmakers, and photographers. A nonstop carnival, with marriage arranging, camel polo, bazaars, and dancing under the stars, it is one of the most important annual fairs in this desert state.

  For Hindus, Pushkar is also an important pilgrimage center; the lake is said to have sprung from the spot where the creator god, Brahma, dropped a lotus from the sky, and hundreds of temples now line its banks. For 2 days around the full moon, particularly at dawn, pilgrims gather to bathe in Pushkar Lake and to celebrate Kartik Purnima, the holy day of the full moon.

  Thousands of camels, some decked out in jewelry, come to the fair from across the desert state of Rajasthan.

  WHERE: 220 miles/354 km southwest of New Delhi. WHEN: 2 weeks in late Oct–early Nov. HOW: U.S.-based Equitours offers an 18-night equestrian safari in the Thar Desert to coincide with the Pushkar Camel Fair. Tel 800-545-0019 or 307-455-3363; www.ridingtours.com. Cost: $6,895. Originates in Delhi. U.S.-based Geographic Expeditions offers 15-day luxury jeep safaris through Rajasthan, with a 2-day stay at Pushkar during the festival. Tel 415-922-0448; www.geoex.com. Cost: from $9,450. Originates in Delhi.

  Opulence and Romance in the City of Lakes

  THE CITY PALACE AND ROYAL HOTELS

  Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

  Nowhere are the power, pride, and wealth of the local maharanas (outside Udaipur called maharajas) more evident than at the immense City Palace in Udaipur. Onetime home of Udaipur’s princely ruler amd the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, this massive group of elaborately decorated buildings now serves mostly as a museum. The exceptions are the private wing, where the present maharana still resides, and the royal guesthouse, which has been reincarnated as the deluxe Shiv Niwas Hotel, offering spacious accommodations that are rich with character as well as dreamy views of Lake Pichola.

  The man-made Lake Pichola was the setting for another pleasure palace of the maharana’s, built in the 18th century on a 4-acre island. It now welcomes guests as the legendary, white-marble Taj Lake Palace, converted (so rumors say) at the suggestion of Jacqueline Kennedy. Set against the backdrop of the majestic Aravalli Mountains on one side and the lofty palace complex on the other, it boasts white-glove butlers, descendants of the original palace retainers; the excellent Jiva spa; an open-air restaurant; gardens; and sunset cruises—helping prove why Udaipur is considered the most romantic city in India.

  Back on the mainland—but removed by a 45-minute drive from the congested heart of Udaipur—the impeccably restored and beautifully located 18th-century fort-palace Devi Garh stands high atop a hill overlooking the small village of Delwara. It took 15 years and a team of India’s finest young designers to transform this crumbling ruin into a unique, 39-suite boutique hotel that strikes a perfect balance between storied history and modern, minimalist chic. Helpful staff can organize treks with experts to nearby ancient temples, set up camel or horse safaris, or arrange an appointment with the in-house astrologer on the roof at sunrise.

  Built in 2002 on 30 acres along the shores of Lake Pichola, the Oberoi Udaivilas was inspired by the palaces of Rajasthan, with its pavilions and decorative domes, hand-painted frescoes, and masterfully crafted artifacts. Its setting, however, is timeless, a series of elegant courtyards, rippling fountains, reflecting pools, and verdant gardens, and with amenities that are strictly 21st-century. Don’t miss the property’s 20-acre wildlife conservatory, where peacocks and spotted deer roam free. If the maharanas were looking for real estate today, they’d need look no further.

  SHIV NIWAS HOTEL: Tel 91/294-252-8016; www.heritagehotelsofindia.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $265 (peak). TAJ LAKE PALACE: Tel 91/294-242-8800; in the U.S., 866-969-1825; www.tajhotels.com. Cost: from $320 (off-peak), from $810 (peak). DEVI GARH: Tel 91/29-5330-4211; www.deviresorts.in. Cost: from $225 (off-peak), from $550 (peak). OBEROI UDAIVILAS: Tel 91/294-243-3300; in the U.S., 800-562-3764; www.oberoihotels.com. Cost: from $320 (off-peak), from $825 (peak). HOW: U.S.-based Ker & Downey offers a 13-day Royal India trip that includes most of these properties. Tel 800-423-4236 or 281-371-2500; www.kerdowney.com. Cost: from $7,115. Originates in Delhi. BEST TIME: Sep–Mar for nicest weather.

  Once the Private Trains of Maharajas

  ROYAL WHEELS OF INDIA

  India

  With over 67,900 miles of track, 7,000 passenger trains, and a workforce of 1.5 million, India’s railway is one of the greatest transportation networks in the world. Its 6,853 stations serve almost every corner of the country, and the general chaos caused by crowded cars and inevitably missed connections can all be part of the adventure.

  Many visitors do little more than ride the rails from New Delhi to Agra for a too brief day trip to the Taj Mahal (p. 552). But for those who prefer a longer, more luxurious trip, there are a handful of trains that treat passengers like royalty, with musicians and richly caparisoned elephants greeting each arrival. Luncheons are arranged at lavish former palaces, camel treks and tiger photo safaris fill out the days, and nights are spent back onboard enjoying the attention of a staff outfitted in crisp tunics and brilliant turbans straight out of The Jewel in the Crown.

  Both the Palace on Wheels and the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels travel mostly at night, allowing full days of sightseeing in the north’s magical cities of Jaipur (see p. 544), Udaipur (see p. 548), Jaisalmer (see p. 545), and Jodhpur (see p. 546) and culminating in a visit to the Taj Mahal before heading back to New Delhi. The Deccan Odyssey journeys from Mumbai southward to Tarkarli, through Maharashtra, on the western coast, and on to Goa (see p. 534); then inland to Pune (the “Oxford of the East”) and the ancient sites at Ajanta and Ellora (see p. 541). Its new sister train, The Indian Maharaja, operates from Mumbai north to Delhi, crossing through the desert state of Rajasthan. The main route of the purple-hued Golden Chariot starts in Bangalore and winds through ancient Karnataka, in southern India, visiting magnificent palaces and historic sites and stopping at Nagarhole National Park, where you can disembark for a wildlife safari. It moves on to the 14th-century ruins at Hampi, and then to Goa before returning to Bangalore. An alternate route encompasses Tamil Nadu and Kerala (see p. 538).

  The newest addition to these lavish options is the Maharajas’ Express, the first pan-India luxury train, with three different one-week themed tours—princely, royal, and classical—covering different regions of India. Hours between stops are filled with sampling food prepared by on-board celebrity chefs, listening to lectures by Indian luminaries, and watching the scenery go by.

  The Palace on Wheels lives up to its name with luxurious compartments for eating, drinking, and sleeping.

  HOW: All trains can be booked through Palace Trains, with offices worldwide. In the U.S., tel 800-724-5120 or 609-683-5018; www.palacetrains.com. PALACE ON WHEELS: In the U.S., tel 888-463-4299 or 609-683-5018; www.palaceonwheels.net. Cost: 8-day trips from $2,460. ROYAL RAJASTHAN ON WHEELS: Tel 91/11-2338-3837; www.royalpalaceonwheels.com. Cost: 8-day trips from $4,340. DECCAN ODYSSEY: Tel 91/22-2283-6690; www.mtdcdeccanodyssey.com. Cost: 8-day trips from $3,055. GOLDEN CHARIOT: Tel 91/80-434-6340; www.goldenchariot.org. Cost: 8-day trips from $3,055. MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS: Tel 91/22-6690-4747; in the U.S., tel 212-292-5712; www.rirtl.com. Cost: 7-day trips from $6,265, all-inclusive.

  Isolated Splendor No Longer Out of Bounds

  HIKING IN SIKKIM

  Gangtok, Sikkim, India

  One of the smallest and least visited of India’s 22 states, Sikkim is bordered by Nepal, Tibet, and Bhutan in the heart of spectacular mountain scenery. It was an independent Buddhist kingdom before joining India in 1975 and is still regarded as one of the last Himalayan Shangri-las, a place apart. Ancient Buddhist gompas (monasteries) are perched on almost every outcrop of the awesome landscape, often wrapped in mist. The local Sikkimese believe their mountains—which aren’t even named unless they’re over 20,000 feet tall—are the “altar of the gods,” and who could dis
agree? Straddling the border of Nepal and Sikkim is the sacred Mount Kanchenjunga (its Tibetan name, which means “Five Treasure-Houses of the Great Snow Mountain,” refers to its five peaks). At 28,169 feet, it is the third highest mountain in the world and is worshipped as a guardian deity.

  By far the most meaningful and exhilarating way to experience Sikkim’s dramatic beauty and serene culture is by hiking to Sikkimese villages and sharing their daily life. Organized treks take visitors along verdant footpaths from village to village, following unspoiled routes along lush ridgelines and past sacred lakes. Guests stay in small, family-run lodges and homes and visit Buddhist temples and monasteries. The land that surrounds them is a botanist’s fantasy: During a typical trip you can pass from subtropical jungle to alpine meadow within hours and glimpse some of the more than 550 species of birds, 500 kinds of orchids, and 35 varieties of rhododendrons, all the while enjoying the abundant and luxuriant pine forests.

  About 200 Buddhist monasteries can be found in Sikkim.

  WHERE: northeast corner of India; Bagdogra airport is 70 miles/113 km from the capital, Gangtok. HOW: U.S.-based Geographic Expeditions offers a 13-day touring and walking trip in Sikkim. Tel 800-777-8183 or 415-922-0448; www.geoex.com. Cost: $4,950, all-inclusive. Originates in Kolkata. When: Feb–Apr and Oct–Nov. BEST TIMES: Mar for wildflowers; Nov for most spectacular mountain views.