1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  Ceremonial Center of an Ancient Empire

  PERSEPOLIS

  Iran

  Perched on a giant, elevated, stone plateau in the dusty foothills of the Zagros Mountains, the massive and magnificent palace complex of Persepolis was the glory of the vast Persian Empire at its peak, when it reached from Greece to India. It was the showpiece of Darius I, who began building it in about 515 B.C. It was expanded by his successors, who erected massive pillars, an ornate treasury hall, and an audience hall with a capacity of 10,000. The hall was lavishly topped with a roof made of cedar carried here from Lebanon, and was supported by 36 stone columns, each 65 feet high. The king, inscriptions read, was empowered by God, and the royal tomb of each was elaborately cut into the mountainside on the scale of the Egyptian pharaohs’.

  Officials and dignitaries from far-flung provinces came to pay homage to the “king of kings,” attending festivals and ceremonial events at this isolated location. They arrived by chariot or in royal processions bearing gifts—and taxes—and climbed a massive staircase to the audience hall with thousands of soldiers standing guard. Alexander the Great put an end to Persian dominance when he ransacked and destroyed Persepolis in 330 B.C., and over the centuries, the ruins disappeared into the sand.

  Archaeologists from the University of Chicago uncovered Persepolis in the 1930s. Now, there are more than a dozen columns and re-created buildings on display as well as magnificently carved reliefs, the main staircase built by Darius (and another by his son Xerxes the Great), and a massive entryway flanked by giant carved bulls. For Iranians, the ruins stand as a testament of the glory of their land’s rich history. The nearby university town of Shiraz is the most practical and delightful base—a cultural outpost brimming with structures either built or restored in the 18th century, when it was the Iranian capital. Located in a fertile region an hour’s drive from Persepolis, it is known as the “City of Roses,” full of parks and trees, beautiful buildings, and wide, shady avenues.

  In Persepolis, one of the Persian Empire’s greatest achievements, staircases feature reliefs of Persian soldiers.

  WHERE: 36 miles/58 km northeast of Shiraz; 400 miles/640 km south of Tehran. WHERE TO STAY: Homa Hotel, with a modern wing, is the nicest in Shiraz. Tel 98/711-228-8000; www.homahotels.com. Cost: from $145. HOW: U.S.-based Distant Horizons specializes in customized travel to Iran; small-group tours include Tehran, Isfahan, and Persepolis with a guest scholar. Tel 800-333-1240 or 562-983-8828; www.distant-horizons.com. Cost: 19-day trip from $5,960, all-inclusive; includes airfare from New York. BEST TIMES: Mar–May and Sep–Nov for nicest weather; at sunset, when the stone grows rosy in the changing light.

  Awaken Your Inner Nomad

  YURT STAY AT LAKE SONG KÖL

  Kyrgyzstan

  Lake Song Kol is cowboy country—Kyrgyz style. The blue, almost perfectly round body of water is ringed by prairie and mountains, located at an elevation of 9,953 feet, and is one of the world’s biggest lakes. The golden grass that grows along its shores is ideal pastureland for herders to graze their sheep, goats, cows, and horses, plus the occasional yak or camel. For the visitor, it’s an idyllic setting in which to escape civilization and one that is exceptionally welcoming to travelers.

  A peek inside the yurt of a nomad family is a highlight of any visit to Song Köl. Local tour operators can arrange visits to families, but independent travelers are likely to have an invitation extended. An age-old tradition of hospitality means that strangers are always welcome, with the understanding that the favor may one day be returned. Yurt home-stays during the summer will almost inevitably include a round or two of koumiss (fermented mare’s milk), usually brewed by the host family.

  While visiting in the felt tent among new Kyrgyz friends, take careful note of the wonderful shyrdaks (carpets) the family will likely have decorating the walls and floor. These handmade mosaic felt rugs are a colorful splash of interlocking patterns based on the shapes of animal horns and cosmic symbols.

  Lunch is likely to include a few chunks of kazy (horsemeat) or kesme (noodle soup with potato, meat, and vegetable). Another popular local dish is besbarmak (noodle and lamb cooked in broth); the name translates to “five fingers,” indicating the required use of the hands rather than forks and knives.

  Your Kyrgyz hosts can organize a number of activities around the lake. Horseback riding is the most popular, and rides can last from a couple of hours to several days. Hiking and wildlife- and bird-watching are also possible here; one can often spot wolves around the lake, as well as plenty of waterfowl, including whooper swans and mountain geese.

  With good planning, it’s possible to catch an annual horse games festival at Song Köl, which includes traditional games like kok-boro, a pololike sport that involves men on horseback fighting for control of a goat carcass. This is also a great time to see the Kyrgyz in traditional dress and listen to their lyrical music. Bring warm clothes (at this altitude, it can get chilly in the evenings, even in summer), small gifts for your hosts, and a healthy sense of adventure.

  Kyrgyz nomads live in portable yurts.

  WHERE: 260 miles/418 km south of Bishkek. VISITOR INFO: www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg. HOW: British-run Celestial Mountains in Bishkek offers custom tours to Song Köl. Tel 996/312-311814; www.tours.kg. BEST TIMES: late Jun–mid-Sep, when herders arrive with their flocks; Jul or Aug for the horse games.

  A City Older than Rome

  OSH

  Kyrgyzstan

  Osh is one of the oldest cities of Central Asia, and its residents claim it’s even older than Rome. The assertion may not be far from the truth, as historical remains indicate human habitation since around the 5th century B.C.

  It’s unknown precisely how the city came to be, but there is no shortage of theories. Some say it was King Solomon who ordered its construction; others suggest Alexander the Great. There is no doubt that Osh was an important stop along the Silk Road. By the 8th century, it was considered one of the most important centers for silk production. The city was also an important location for Ferghana horses, mentioned by Marco Polo and prized by Chinese traders to the east.

  Today the legacy of the Silk Road lives on in the great Jayma Bazaar, still one of the largest markets in all of Central Asia and most dynamic on Sunday morning. It’s a great place to pick up anything from locally produced knives to a traditional kalpak, the tall black-and-white hat favored by Kyrgyz men. The market bursts with seasonal fruit plucked from the rich soil of the Fergana Valley, one of the world’s oldest agricultural regions.

  Wander through and you’ll rub shoulders with a great many different Central Asian peoples, including Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, and Tajiks. Women don their most colorful dress for market days, while local men labor in smithies down side alleys. It’s impossible to leave the bazaar without trying some sizzling mutton kebabs and fresh, tandoor-baked nan bread.

  The most important historical site in Osh is Solomon’s Throne, a towering rock that dominates the city skyline and is thought to be the site of King Solomon’s burial. It is also an important place of pilgrimage for Muslims, as they believe the Prophet Mohammed prayed here. In 1497, Babur, the king of Fergana, constructed a mountainside mosque—and with a strong set of lungs and legs, it’s possible to reach the top in 20 minutes and take in the spectacular views of the city.

  Osh is one of the most scenic cities of Central Asia, and it’s worth spending a day wandering its leafy streets and river promenade. During national holidays, you can watch traditional horse games and eagle hunting competitions. From here, take an overnight trip to the base of Lenin Peak (23,542 feet), a great area for hikers and mountain climbers.

  WHERE: 384 miles/620 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. HOW: Kyrgyz Concept runs tours to Osh and the nearby Pamir-Alai mountains. Tel 996/312-903232; www.concept.kg. BEST TIMES: Apr–May and Sep–Oct for nicest weather.

  Asia’s Richest Wildlife Sanctuary, Home of the Royal Bengal Tiger

  CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

  Nepal<
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  The 360-square-mile Chitwan National Park was once the private hunting grounds of the king of Nepal but is now one of the finest protected forests and grassland regions in Asia. Boat and jeep safaris and jungle walks, all led by naturalists and expert guides, allow you to explore this natural kingdom rich with wildlife; with more than 500 bird species, it is Nepal’s finest birding destination. But the best safaris are a more traditional affair: A cadre of gentle elephants and their skilled mahouts are ready to take you in search of the great one-horned rhinoceros and—an uncontested highlight of any safari—the critically endangered royal Bengal tiger. There are fewer than 100 breeding adult royal Bengals left in Nepal, of which about 50 live in Chitwan and the adjacent Parsa Wildlife Reserve.

  The Tiger Mountain Group has three properties located in the Chitwan area. Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge, a cluster of stilted, treetop-level thatched huts, was opened in the 1960s as the park’s first safari lodge. In the early morning, guests set out in search of the elusive beasts; at night, they return to simple, candlelit dinners (there’s no electricity aside from solar-powered fans and reading lights). The experience is reminiscent of the safaris of Nepalese aristocrats and the Raj’s great white hunters. Elephant polo matches—once the sport of maharajas—are resurrected during Tiger Tops’ annual international tournament in December.

  Four miles east of Jungle Lodge is Tiger Tops Tented Camp, 12 en suite safari tents in the beautiful Surung Valley. And on the northern bank of the Narayani River is the newest addition to the Tiger Mountain Group, Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, whose location just outside the park means wildlife safaris can be easily enjoyed along with visits to the villages of the Tharu, Bote, and Mushyar tribes, who have lived here for millennia.

  WHERE: 75 miles/121 km southwest of Kathmandu. TIGER MOUNTAIN GROUP: Tel 977/1-4361500; www.tigermountain.com. Cost: from $430 (Jungle Lodge), from $310 (Tented Camp and Tharu Lodge) per person, all-inclusive. When: Sep–Jun. BEST TIMES: Oct–Nov and Mar–Apr for pleasant weather and best chance of tiger sightings.

  Astounding Scenery (and Rhododendrons) Above the Clouds

  JALJALE HIMAL

  Nepal

  Adventurers arriving en masse since the 1960s have indelibly altered Nepal’s most popular treks, but unforgettable hill cultures and breathtaking scenery can still be found on less traveled routes. Officially closed to the public until 1988, the Jaljale Himal High Ridge Trek in remote eastern Nepal remains a hidden jewel, offering some of the most pristine wilderness in the Himalayas and one of the area’s best short treks. Trekkers find themselves among some of the highest peaks in the world, with frequent views of four of the world’s grandest peaks—Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, and Makalu—and some of the friendliest people in Nepal. You’ll see few non-Nepalese faces except for a handful of trekkers on the final three days—foreigners rarely visit most of the picturesque villages on this route.

  The journey begins with some relatively easy ridge trekking on Milke Danda, the lower section of the Jaljale Himal Range, a biodiversity treasure-house with 16 types of rhododendrons and over 100 bird species. The trek culminates atop pyramid-shaped Patibhara, a dramatic 12,450-foot “hill” in front of the majestic 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga. Legend has it that shepherds used to bring sheep up here to graze, until one day when most of the sheep disappeared. A goddess named Patibhara Devi appeared in the shepherds’ dreams and instructed them to pay homage to her by sacrificing some of the remaining sheep. They obeyed and the next day their sheep miraculously reappeared. Expect to share the incredibly scenic trail up to the Patibhara temple with local pilgrims passing dense rhododendron forests and taking in nonstop mountain views. But beware: This trip will spoil you. After Jaljale Himal, everything else will seem tame and commercialized by comparison.

  WHERE: The trek begins at Biratnagar, 337 miles/541 km southeast of Kathmandu. HOW: U.S.-based Above the Clouds offers a 15-day trip (with 8-day moderate/strenuous trek). Tel 800-233-4499 or 802-482-4848; www.aboveclouds.com. Cost: from $3,650, all-inclusive, with domestic air. Originates in Kathmandu. When: Mar and Nov. BEST TIMES: Mar–Apr and Oct–Dec for nicest weather and flowers in full bloom.

  Ancient Palaces Frozen in Time

  KATHMANDU VALLEY

  Nepal

  At just over 15 miles long and 12 miles across, Kathmandu Valley is Nepal’s political, cultural, and commercial hub; before development began 30 or so years ago, it held as many temples and shrines as it did houses. Since Nepal first opened to foreign tourism in 1951, legions of flower children and trekkers have come and lingered in the history-rich Durbar Square (durbar means “palace”) in the capital city of Kathmandu and explored the astounding concentration of more than 50 temples, shrines, and old palaces nearby. Packed with tourist groups, touts, and bicycle rickshaws, Kathmandu can seem overwhelming when viewed from the platform steps of the triple-roofed Maju Deval temple, but the square still has its moments of magic. On the south side of the square is Kumari Ghar, the three-storied palace residence of the young girl who bears the royal title Kumari Devi and is worshipped as the bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju. Around the square, modern consumerism has obliterated much of Kathmandu’s medieval character, but it’s still a great thrill to meander the tangle of alleyways a bit farther away, heady with incense and spices and full of hole-in-the-wall shops.

  North of the square, just off the commercial stretch of the Durbar Marg (or King’s Way), you’ll find one of the best known and most historical of Kathmandu’s hotels, the rambling Hotel Yak & Yeti, with 270 stylish and modern rooms and suites. The hotel’s original wing is part of the Lal Durbar, the royal 19th-century home of a former rana (prime minister). The smaller Dwarika’s Hotel is a newer arrival: The simple, Nepali-style brick building embellished with decorative woodcarvings opened as a hotel in 1977. For years, its owner, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha, who was also a visionary conservationist, rescued thousands of ancient carved wooden pieces, then employed traditionally trained Nepali craftsmen to integrate them into this atmospheric, ancient-looking haven, a virtual oasis in a very busy city.

  For less action, head to the small town of Bhaktapur, also called Bhadgaon, the City of Devotees. This former capital of one of the other two independent kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley is far less developed—it’s evocative of Kathmandu in the days before trekkers arrived. There’s plenty of impressive, medieval architecture, including more than 40 temples and the royal Palace of Fifty-Five Windows, which is entered through the Golden Gate, the heavily embellished, 18th-century doorway held to be the most important piece of art in the valley. A short walk in any direction from the square brings you into the twisting back alleyways where the town’s craftsmen, for centuries a source of the city’s renown, carry on their traditional handiwork. Unpack your bags at Krishna’s House, where rooms are simple, clean, and sunny and the Prajapati family are the very embodiment of Nepalese kindness.

  Traditional Nepalese architecture surrounds Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, one of the valleys busiest places.

  WHERE: Bhaktapur is 9 miles/14 km east of Kathmandu. HOTEL YAK & YETI: Tel 977/1-248999; www.yakandyeti.com. Cost: from $200. DWARIKA’S HOTEL: Tel 977/1-4479488; www.dwarikas.com. Cost: from $225. KRISHNA’S HOUSE: Tel 977/1-6610462; www.krishnashouse.com. Cost: $45. BEST TIMES: Mar–May and Sep–Nov for dry, pleasant weather; late Oct–early Nov for Tihar Festival throughout Nepal, a Hindu holiday honoring Lakshmi that fills the cities with the glow of countless candles.

  Sagarmatha, “Mother Goddess of the Universe”

  MOUNT EVEREST

  Nepal

  The history of the West’s conquest of the world’s tallest mountain is nearly as riveting as the views from its peak. After a number of failed attempts, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay were the first documented climbers to reach the top, in 1953, and thousands of adventurers have tried (often unsuccessfully) to repeat their feat ever since—the most famed in recent times being those documented in 1996 in Jon Krakauer’
s bestseller Into Thin Air. But trekkers don’t need to scale the summit in order to experience the might of Sagarmatha, “Goddess of the Sky,” as Everest is known to the Sherpas. Most who come here encounter the legendary mountain by way of a journey to the beautiful Khumbu Valley, with its timeless Sherpa villages, spectacular Buddhist monasteries, and unique wildlife.

  One attainable highlight of such an Everest trek is the 17,600-foot-high Everest Base Camp, where climbers prepare for their summit attempts. Here at the foot of the notoriously treacherous Khumbu Icefall, amid the jumble of boulders, tents, and prayer flags, you can soak up the atmosphere and excitement as the expedition teams plan their ascent and Sherpa cooks and porters ready the supplies. Views of Everest are obscured from camp. For those, you’ll need to take to the surrounding trails, where you’ll enjoy breathtaking close-ups of the 29,035-foot peak and of Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, all over 26,000 feet high. Balancing all this impossible grandeur is the friendliness of the Sherpa people, whose hospitality provides an experience as memorable as Everest itself.

  Prayer flags are hung at a Mount Everest base camp to bless those preparing for the ascent.

  WHERE: The trek begins in Lukla, near the Tibet border, approximately 85 miles/137 km northeast of Kathmandu. HOW: U.S.-based Mountain Travel Sobek offers 14- and 25-day trips. Tel 888-831-7526 or 510-594-6000; www.mtsobek.com. Cost: 19-day trip to Base Camp I from $4,435, all-inclusive. Originates in Kathmandu. When: Apr–May, Oct–Nov. BEST TIMES: Mar–May, which is before monsoon season, or Oct–Nov after it is over.