Depending on the light, Uluru can appear to be anywhere from pink to dark red in color.
WHERE: 200 miles/322 km southwest of Alice Springs. ULURU-KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK: Tel 61/8-8956-1128; www.environment.gov.au/parks/uluru. LONGITUDE 131°: Tel 61/2-8296-8010; www.longitudel31.com.au. Cost: 2-night package $4,100 per person, all-inclusive. SAILS IN THE DESERT: Tel 61/2-8296-8010; www.ayersrockresort.com.au/sails. Cost: from $480 (off-peak), from $580 (peak). BEST TIMES: Mar–May and Sep–Nov for pleasant weather.
Where Earth’s Oldest Living Rain Forest Meets the Great Barrier Reef
CAPE TRIBULATION
Queensland, Australia
Queensland’s Wet Tropics rain forest and the Great Barrier Reef come together on Australia’s northeast coast at Cape Tribulation, named in 1770 by a peeved Captain James Cook, “because here began all my troubles,” when his ship hit a coral reef. Protected within the Cape Tribulation and Daintree national parks and believed to have been the evolutionary cradle for much of Australia’s unique wildlife, the rain forest here contains trees that are 3,000 years old, including 85 of the 120 rarest species on earth.
A number of locally based operators offer a variety of adventure trips that take you snorkeling on the area’s Mossman River (the only place in the world where you can do so in a rain forest river), rafting, biking, and night game viewing, among other activities. You’ll cross the Daintree River by vehicle ferry, then continue to Cape Tribulation beach, where you can jungle surf (by means of a zip-line) through the rain forest canopy, then recharge with a picnic lunch on a tropical beach. Wildlife-watching is good on cruises along the forest-lined Daintree River—you’ll spy crocodiles, tree snakes, and all manner of bird species.
Choose between two outstanding ecotourism properties that comfortably coexist within miles of each other; both have naturalists on staff to give guided walks through the wilderness. Silky Oaks Lodge offers luxurious lodging in river houses by the swift-flowing Mossman River or in tree houses reached by boardwalks high in the forest. The lodge’s Healing Waters Spa relies on indigenous plants and herbs for its treatments. Daintree Eco Lodge and Spa features 15 beautifully furnished, elevated “bayan” houses that are equipped with every modern comfort. At the lodge’s Julaymba Restaurant—perched at the edge of a freshwater lagoon—the exotic and unusual flavors of the rain forest are integrated with the cosmopolitan cuisine of modern Australia.
WHERE: 70 miles/113 km north of Cairns. HOW: Back Country Bliss Adventures! leads full-day tours from the Port Douglas area. Tel 61/7-4099-3677; www.backcountrybliss.com.au. Cost: from $250. SILKY OAKS LODGE: Tel 61/7-4098-1666; www.silkyoakslodge.com.au. Cost: from $530; dinner $70. DAINTREE ECO LODGE: Tel 61/7-4098-6100; www.daintree-ecolodge.com.au. Cost: from $250; dinner $80. BEST TIME: May–Sep for the “dry” season.
A Romp on the World’s Largest Sand Island
FRASER ISLAND
Queensland, Australia
The Butchulla Aboriginal people called it K’Gari (Paradise)—and for good reason. Here on the world’s largest sand island you can swim in freshwater lakes, walk through the ancient Valley of the Giants rain forest, join rangers to track down some of the island’s 350 species of birds, or just enjoy the uninterrupted 75 miles of broad coastal beach—the world’s most unusual “highway.” Join a 4WD tour offered by the island’s ecotourism hotel, the Kingfisher Bay Resort, or hire your own vehicle and follow the jeep tracks over the dunes. Or spend the day cruising the southernmost tip of the Barrier Reef with the Pacific Ocean on one side and 40-foot cliffs that resemble Gothic cathedrals on the other. The northern tip of the island, where huge sand mountains tower above a vibrant blue sea, offers more chance for endless exploration. Afterward, take your taste buds on an adventure at the resort’s Seabelle Restaurant, where you’ll find fresh seafood, traditional fare infused with “bush tucker” (plants that grow in the wild, which replace European herbs), and dishes inspired by the indigenous Butchulla tribe.
There are several superb walking trails that take you through idyllic scenery: This is the only place on earth where rain forests are rooted in sand dunes, at elevations above 500 feet. Top attractions include stunning Lake McKenzie, its clear blue water ringed by a snowy–white sand beach, and Lake Wabby, surrounded by eucalyptus forest on three sides. The 53-mile Fraser Island Great Walk links the island’s highlights, but unless you have 6 to 8 days, plan to walk just a portion of it.
The surf fishing is exceptional on Fraser Island, as is the bird-watching, and Australia’s purest breed of dingo lives here. Climb to a perch lookout for a chance to spot manatees, sharks, manta rays, and whales offshore. From August to late October, the Kingfisher Bay Resort offers cruises that allow you an up-close look at humpback whales during their magnificent annual migration south to the Antarctic.
WHERE: 230 miles/370 km northeast of Brisbane. KINGFISHER BAY RESORT: Tel 61/7-4120-3333; www.kingfisherbay.com. Cost: from $225 (off-peak), from $320 (peak); dinner $60. BEST TIMES: Weather is warm year-round; Aug–Nov for whale-watching.
Wondrous Undersea Panorama
THE GREAT BARRIER REEF AND THE CORAL SEA
Queensland, Australia
It’s often called the Eighth Wonder of the World, and that might be selling it short. The Great Barrier Reef is the only living organism on the planet that’s visible from outer space. Located between 10 and 50 miles off the continent’s northeast Queensland coast and stretching for more than 1,400 miles, actually it’s not one coral reef but an association of approximately 2,900 separate fringing reefs, with about 600 tropical islands and 300 coral cays sprinkled among them. The largest marine preserve in the world, it’s home to a stupefying profusion of sea creatures, including 360 species of brilliantly colored hard corals, one-third of the world’s soft corals, 1,500 varieties of fish, and over 5,000 kinds of mollusks.
One of the most popular ways to explore it all is aboard the Quicksilver, a high-tech, highspeed wave-piercing catamaran that departs from Port Douglas for the 90-minute trip to an anchored glass-bottomed platform, where you can swim, snorkel, or scuba dive. Or you can ride in a semisubmersible vessel and listen to your guide’s running commentary on the underwater spectacle outside your window. Dozens of smaller tour boat operators in Port Douglas and Cairns offer a more intimate half- or full-day experience on sailboats, yachts, and catamarans.
Those wanting a longer tour can spend 4 days aboard the luxurious mini cruise ships Coral Princess or Coral Princess II. The 115-foot ships offer snorkeling, scuba diving, guided coral-viewing excursions in small glass-bottomed boats, reef fishing, and evening presentations by trained marine biologists. If you’ve always dreamed of learning how to dive, the ships’ qualified PADI instructors will have you logging your first underwater hours in no time.
Most people think of the Great Barrier Reef as the last word in deep-sea diving, but the waters of the lesser-known, less-dived Coral Sea, beyond the reef, are in some ways more wonderful yet. Highlights of this pristine wilderness of crystal-clear waters and its uninhabited coral atolls include huge perpendicular drop-offs and visibility as deep as 160 feet—not to mention giant clams and 300-pound groupers. Some live-aboard trips include a visit to the wreck of the SS Yongala, a 363-foot relic still largely intact and said to host the greatest concentration and diversity of marine life in the world—a mind-boggling underwater experience for experienced divers.
Of the 24 island resorts amid the emerald and turquoise waters of the Great Barrier Reef, Lizard Island is one of the farthest north, a scenic 1-hour flight from Cairns. The 40 villa-style bungalows sit on the justly famous Blue Lagoon, where 24 secluded white-sand, palm-fringed coves mean there’s a good chance you’ll have a beach to yourself. The resort is uninhabited save for staff and guests and lies within a 2,500-acre national park. Don’t be surprised to see a 3-foot-long monitor lizard—after which Captain James Cook named the island in 1770—sunbathing on the palm-studded green lawn in front of your bungalow.
WHERE: Cair
ns is 1,219 miles/1,961 km north of Sydney. QUICKSILVER: Tel 61/7-4087-2100; www.quicksilver-cruises.com. Cost: $225, includes lunch and equipment. CORAL PRINCESS CRUISES: Tel 61/7-4040-9999; www.coralprincess.com.au. Cost: 4-day cruises from $1,660, all-inclusive, diving lessons and equipment extra. LIZARD ISLAND: Tel 61/2-8296-8010; www.lizardisland.com.au. Cost: from $1,550, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: May–Nov for ideal sea conditions and weather.
Jewel of the Reef
HERON ISLAND
Queensland, Australia
Unlike many of the other islands near the Great Barrier Reef, Heron Island, situated on the Tropic of Capricorn, is a coral cay—literally part of the reef itself. To see even more, all you have to do is wade out from the beach and look down. But to really appreciate it all, you’ll want to strap on a tank and mask. There are 20 dive sites within 15 minutes of shore; snorkelers and those opting for a semi-submersible ride can catch their own glimpse of fish, turtles, mantas, reef sharks, and endless varieties of invertebrates.
One of the most dazzling events on the reef is the rarely witnessed coral spawning. It is difficult to predict, but typically happens a few days after the full moon on one night in late spring or early summer (November to early December), when the polyps emit billions of pink-and-purple bundles of eggs and sperm. It’s like being inside a pink snowstorm, and divers from all over the world plan night dives around this time of year in hopes of witnessing the awe-inspiring event.
There’s also important wildlife-watching on the 30-acre island itself, half of which is a national park. Hundreds of green and loggerhead sea turtles swim ashore from November to March to lay their eggs; the hatchlings scamper into the sea from January to late April. You’re likely to see abundant birdlife as well, including the reef herons for which the island is named. Offshore, humpback whales pass through from June through October.
No day-trippers are allowed on the island, and its sole lodging, the low-key, eco-sensitive Heron Island Resort, is among the most special of the few hotels located on the Barrier Reef Islands. Join one of its reef walks at low tide, or enjoy diving and snorkeling off the private beach. At the end of a day spent exploring, enjoy a pampering visit to the Aqua Soul Spa and a dinner of local seafood at the resort’s Shearwater Restaurant.
WHERE: 40 miles/64 km northeast of Gladstone, which is 691 miles/1,113 km north of Sydney. HERON ISLAND RESORT: Tel 61/3-9413-6284; www.heronisland.com. Cost: from $400, inclusive. BEST TIMES: Jun and Jul for clearest water; coral spawns typically occur sometime between the 2nd and 6th nights following the full moon in Nov.
A Dazzling Archipelago in the Heart of the Great Barrier Reef
SAILING THE WHITSUNDAYS
Queensland, Australia
It would be hard to conjure a more splendid destination for setting sail than these idyllic islands in the Coral Sea, discovered by Captain Cook in 1770 on Whitsunday (49 days after Easter). Cradled by the Great Barrier Reef (see p. 653) midway along Australia’s Queensland Coast, these 74 islands (of which only eight are inhabited) are a sailor’s dream and also offer glorious, deserted palm-fringed beaches, scenic bushwalks, and superb snorkeling and diving amid teeming coral reefs. Visitors can sail these turquoise waters using a range of options, from crewed luxury craft to bareboats for DIY adventurers, or you can sign up for a half or full day of adventure on a dive or snorkeling boat.
Excellent resorts are scattered around the islands, though few match the glamorous Hayman Great Barrier Reef Resort, nestled on private, 726-acre Hayman Island in the northern reaches of the Whitsundays and the closest to the Outer Barrier Reef. Set in a lush tropical jungle, this longtime favorite offers 200-plus guest rooms and beach villas as well as restaurants, bars, and boutiques. Guests arrive by 1-hour boat transfer from the small airport on Hamilton Island, the busiest and most developed of the Whitsundays, with the widest range of hotel options. At the southern end of the archipelago sits the high-end qualia Resort, with 60 breezy and elegant, freestanding, one-bedroom pavilions (many with private plunge pools) that hint of Southeast Asia. Guests can take part in any number of activities, including kayaking, sailing on one of the property’s two 16-foot Hobie Cats, exclusive treatments at Spa qualia, or a day at the 18-hole championship Hamilton Island Golf Club (on its own little island).
A range of less luxurious resorts can be found on the neighboring islands of Daydream, Long, South Molle, Hook, and Lindeman. Airlie Beach and Shute Harbor, on the mainland, provide transportation by boat to the reef and a host of islands, including Whitsunday Island, where you’ll find Whitehaven Beach, a perfect wedding-white crescent of sand that is possibly Australia’s finest.
The sugar-white sands of Whitehaven Beach stretch for 7 miles.
WHERE: Hamilton Island is 560 miles/900 km north of Brisbane. VISITOR INFO: www.whitsundaytourism.com.au. HOW: Explore Whitsundays (tel 61/7-4946-5782; www.explorewhitsundays.com.au) and Whitsunday Sailing Adventures (tel 61/7-4940-2000; www.whitsundaysailingadventures.com.au) offer various sailing and diving options. HAYMAN RESORT: Tel 61/7-4940-1234; www.hayman.com.au. Cost: from $635. QUALIA RESORT: Tel 61/2-9433-3349; www.qualia.com.au. Cost: from $1,020. BEST TIMES: Jul–Sep for whale-watching; Oct–Nov for favorable sea conditions.
High Culture in South Australia
ADELAIDE
South Australia, Australia
Australia’s fifth largest city is one of its best-kept secrets. Equal parts charming country town and sophisticated big city, it boasts multicultural flair, a thriving arts-and-music scene, and a packed lineup of year-round festivals and big-draw events.
Adelaide is known as “a city within a park.” More than 45 percent of it is made up of green spaces, each with its own specialty: rare and exotic flowers and fountains at the Botanic Gardens; more than 50 varieties of roses at Veale Gardens; a Japanese-style oasis of peace and tranquility at Himeji Garden; and river paddleboats, tennis courts, and bike rentals at Elder Park.
Still, one of Adelaide’s best-known landmarks isn’t a park but the Central Market, where growers and producers from all over the state pack 250 stalls, selling gourmet cheeses, smoked meats, artisanal breads, fruits, and vegetables. Some of Australia’s best-known wine producers hail from these parts too—with the Barossa (see next page), McLaren Vale, and Adelaide Hills wine regions on the doorstep and more than 200 wineries within an hour’s drive. But it’s a mere 15-minute drive to the historic Penfolds Magill Estate (its other facility is an hour’s drive away in the Barossa Valley). In the tasting room and modern, glass-fronted restaurant that boasts views of the vineyards and the city beyond, you can enjoy world-renowned wines by the glass, as well as seasonal dishes prepared from homegrown produce. Back in the city, be sure to visit the Australian Aboriginal Cultures Gallery in the South Australian Museum: It contains the world’s largest and most significant collection of Aboriginal artifacts.
For 3 weeks in March of even-numbered years only, the Adelaide Festival, devoted to the performing arts, takes over the town. The annual Fringe Festival (usually mid-February to mid-March) is the second largest such festival in the world (after Edinburgh; see p. 35), while the world music festival WOMADelaide hosts some of the best acts from all over in mid-March.
For a unique overnight in Adelaide, get in touch with Regina and Rodney Twiss, who have lovingly restored 20 heritage-listed cottages, mews, and manor houses—even a firehouse and a chapel—dotted all over the upscale neighborhood of North Adelaide. Or try the history-steeped, close-to-everything Medina Grand Adelaide Treasury, a 19th-century treasury building turned hotel. Its 80 spacious rooms are imbued with a contemporary style.
With over 3,000 artifacts, the South Australian Museum chronicles millennia of Aboriginal history.
WHERE: 886 miles/1,394 km southwest of Sydney. VISITOR AND FESTIVAL INFO: www.cityofadelaide.com.au. PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE: Tel 61/8-8301-5569; www.penfolds.com. Cost: dinner $100. SOUTH AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM: Tel 61/8-8207-7500; www.samuseum.sa.gov.au. NORTH ADELAIDE HERITAGE ACCOMMODATION: Tel 61/8-8272-1355
; www.adelaideheritage.com. Cost: from $235. MEDINA GRAND ADELAIDE TREASURY: 61/8-8112-0000; www.medina.com.au. Cost: from $185. BEST TIMES: Sep–May for pleasant weather; “Mad March” for countless festivals.
Historic Homesteads Yield World-Class Wines
BAROSSA VALLEY
South Australia, Australia
The picturesque Barossa Valley is Australia’s epicenter for all things gastronomic. Together with nearby Clare Valley, it produces over 40 percent of Australia’s wines. Easy to reach from Adelaide (see previous page), it is a relatively compact area of small country towns connected by scenic back roads that are flanked by 150 vineyards. Over 70 cellar doors (tasting rooms) present the chance to sample the signature shiraz and other robust varieties of red wine, as well as riesling, sémillon, and chardonnay. They include household names such as Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds, and Peter Lehmann as well as smaller brands such as Henschke, Rockford, and Charles Melton.
Barossa’s early settlers brought their food traditions with them, instilling the region’s cuisine with a strong German-Polish influence. Stop in at a Barossa butcher and you’ll find smoked mettwurst, lachsschinken, and bratwurst sausages, while a visit to Angaston’s Saturday Farmers Market will reward you with fresh-from-the-oven baked goods. As for where to stay, Angaston’s nearby Collingrove Homestead was built in 1856 by one of the early settlers and today operates as a charming inn. It is listed on the National Trust, as is the home of wine pioneer Joseph Seppelt, built at approximately the same time. The rambling and aristocratic Lodge Country House, once the home of one of his 13 children, is now a handsome bluestone inn and restaurant, across the road from the Seppelts’ sprawling showpiece vineyard.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 103