Tanunda is the most important of the Barossa wine towns as well as the quaintest, with a clutch of antiques shops, wine stores, and cafés. The Louise, a contemporary all-suite hotel, draws crowds with its Apellation restaurant, which features regional cuisine served in a sophisticated dining room. Smart but more casual is the 1918 Bistro and Grill, where the inventive, seasonal menu may feature the likes of confit pork belly with prawn ravioli and sweet-and-sour turnips.
WHERE: 45 miles/72 km northeast of Adelaide. COLLINGROVE HOMESTEAD: Tel 61/8-8564-2061; www.collingrovehomestead.com.au. Cost: $200. THE LODGE COUNTRY HOUSE: Tel 61/8-8562-8277; www.thelodgecountryhouse.com.au. Cost: from $365; dinner $90. THE LOUISE: Tel 61/8-8562-2722; www.thelouise.com.au. Cost: from $475; 3-course prix-fixe dinner $120. 1918 BISTRO AND GRILL: Tel 61/8-8563-0405; www.1918.com.au. Cost: dinner $70. BEST TIMES: Feb–Apr for fall and harvest time; Oct–Dec for spring/summer weather. In odd-numbered years only, the Vintage Festival takes place following Easter.
Authentic Outback, Untamed and Raw
FLINDERS RANGES
South Australia, Australia
Fascinating in their rugged beauty and for their renowned geological formations, the Flinders Ranges are estimated to be 800 million years old and harbor some of the planet’s oldest animal fossils. These desert mountains, which start about 125 miles north of Adelaide (see p. 656) and stretch for more than 265 miles, are known for their dramatic primeval colors and bold sedimentary lines. They are home to over half of Australia’s 3,100 indigenous plants and to scores of birds and reptile species. Best of all, the Flinders is accessible—within the context of travel in Australia, that is—and its most stunning landscapes are preserved in one area, Flinders Ranges National Park.
The most impressive of these is Wilpena Pound, a 31-square-mile natural amphitheater that looks like a prehistoric world where dinosaurs still roam. An outpost of comfort in this rugged landscape is nearby Wilpena Pound Resort, the only lodging within the park. Accommodations range from campgrounds and permanent tents to simple hotel rooms, and they have a lovely swimming pool and a restaurant where outback flavors accent modern Australian cooking. The resort can also help plan backcountry tours that get you way off the beaten path.
Northwest of the park, where the desert and red dunes meet the Flinders Ranges, is Parachilna (population 7). The tiny hamlet is home to the Prairie Hotel, a former pub that dates to 1876 and is famous for its basic but comfortable accommodations, outback hospitality, and an outstanding restaurant that features a surprisingly innovative menu—think emu pâté, kangaroo tail soup, and quandong pie, made from a peachlike fruit.
Down the road is Angorichina Station, a 250-square-mile sheep ranch whose fourth-generation owners also welcome guests to their stone-walled 1860s homestead. While the surrounding landscape is austere, the homestead is like an oasis, and the two guest suites are charming and comfortable. Come at the right time of year and you can help with the shearing of the sheep.
WHERE: beginning 125 miles/201 km north of Adelaide. FLINDERS RANGES NATIONAL PARK: Tel 61/8-8648-0048; www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks. WILPENA POUND RESORT: Tel 61/8-8648-0004; www.wilpenapound.com.au. Cost: tents from $100; rooms from $200; dinner $65. PRAIRIE HOTEL: Tel 61/8-8648-4844; www.prairiehotel.com.au. Cost: from $195; dinner $55. ANGORICHINA: Tel 61/8-8354-2362; www.angorichinastation.com. Cost: $725 per person, all-inclusive. BEST TIMES: May–Oct for milder temperatures; Sep–Oct for wildflowers.
Australia’s Galápagos in the Southern Ocean
KANGAROO ISLAND
South Australia, Australia
Australia’s third largest island, “K.I.,” as it’s known to the locals, is uncrowded and uncomplicated. The sheep outnumber the people 300 to one, and it boasts a trove of rarer animal life too—most notably the namesake kangaroos, plus koalas, Tammar wallabies (now extinct on the mainland), sea lions, and fairy penguins. They inhabit an unspoiled and surprisingly varied wilderness marked by bright-white sand dunes, wind- and sand-sculpted boulders that resemble abstract art (and are aptly called the Remarkable Rocks), sparkling seas, and the Admirals Arch, a natural limestone bridge carved by the elements and a gathering place for thousands of fur seals. Seal Bay is home to their cousins, one of the world’s rarest species of seals, the Australian sea lion; they can be seen lounging by the hundreds, and you can approach them for up-close-and-personal encounters rarely possible in the wild. From the island’s 300 miles of beaches, empty except for the resident wildlife, you can spot bottlenose dolphins and southern right whales.
Most visitors on day trips from Adelaide underestimate the island’s size (90 by 40 miles) and wind up wishing they could stay on at one of the charming local B&Bs such as the Stranraer Homestead, a meticulously restored 1920s limestone farmhouse on a 3,500-acre working sheep farm. In addition to tasteful guest rooms, the homestead has extensive gardens and two natural lagoons that are home to an abundance of birds (watch for the endangered black glossy cockatoo). At the Wanderers Rest inn, the nine balconied rooms are modest but the views across the American River to the mainland are not. Lodging takes a glamorous turn on the island’s south coast, at the Southern Ocean Lodge, a sleek eco-luxe resort that’s known for impeccable service within a secluded setting of pristine limestone cliffs and white sand beaches.
Lichen is responsible for the red orange splashes of color on and around the Remarkable Rocks.
WHERE: 75 miles/121 km southwest of Adelaide. HOW: Exceptional Kangaroo Island offers 1- and multiple-day tours. Tel 61/8-8553-9119; www.exceptionalkangarooisland.com. STRANRAER HOMESTEAD: Tel 61/8-8553-8235; www.stranraer.com.au. Cost: from $190. WANDERERS REST: Tel 61/8-8553-7140; www.wanderersrest.com.au. Cost: from $200. SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE: Tel 61/2-9918-4355; www.southernoceanlodge.com.au. Cost: from $2,150, all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Oct–Feb for nicest weather and good wildlife-viewing.
Walks on the Wild Side
CRADLE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
Tasmania, Australia
Lying 150 miles off the southern coast of mainland Australia, mountainous Tasmania—an island about the size of West Virginia—seems like the end of the earth even to mainland Aussies. Because of its isolation, much of its flora and fauna exist nowhere else in the world, and some of Australia’s most spectacular alpine scenery is protected too within about 3 million largely wild acres of parkland.
The jewel in this natural crown is Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park, which you can explore on the 4- to 6-day, 53-mile Overland Track, beginning in Launceston and linking the 5,068-foot peak with Australia’s deepest freshwater lake. It’s the trail many Aussies vow to do at least once in their life. Hardy trekkers follow it through dense rain forests past glacial lakes and waterfalls, and down through lakeside eucalyptus forests, camping along the way. A more comfortable option can be booked through Cradle Mountain Huts, an outfitter that provides guided treks covering 6 to 11 miles a day and overnights in huts with twin beds or bunk-style rooms, hot showers, and a three-course evening meal. Your trek ends with a 10-mile cruise on Tasmania’s most beautiful lake.
For those who’d rather not hike the whole trail—or even hike at all—the Cradle Mountain Lodge, on the edge of the park, offers horseback riding, canoeing, and shorter walks through lush rain forests and along alpine lakes. Cozy, timber-built cabins (some with fireplaces) and a spa await at the end of the day. Tasmania has a reputation for producing some of the country’s finest food, and you’ll get a sampling at the lodge’s restaurant.
The 4-day guided Maria Island Walk lets you tour the beaches of that island, a short boat ride from Orford, on Tasmania’s east coast, as well as learn a bit about the history and natural features of the area. The island’s first inhabitants were Aborigines, followed by whalers and sealers, convicts, and ultimately an eccentric Italian entrepreneur who planted vineyards. Its population now consists of only a few park rangers along with wallabies, wombats, kangaroos, and fairy penguins.
The circuit around Dove Lake is one of the park’s
most popular trails.
WHERE: Launceston is 120 miles/200 km north of the island’s capital city of Hobart. CRADLE MOUNTAIN–LAKE ST. CLAIR NATIONAL PARK: Tel 61/3-6492-1110; www.parks.tas.gov.au. CRADLE MOUNTAIN HUTS: Tel 61/3-6392-2211; www.cradlehuts.com.au. Cost: 6-day hike from $2,750, all-inclusive. Originates in Launceston. When: Oct–Apr. CRADLE MOUNTAIN LODGE: Tel 61/3-6492-1303; www.cradlemountainlodge.com.au. Cost: from $345. MARIA ISLAND WALK: Tel 61/3-6234-2999; www.mariaislandwalk.com.au. Cost: 4-day walk $2,315, all-inclusive. Originates in Hobart. When: Oct–Apr. BEST TIMES: Oct–Apr for pleasant weather; late Jun for Tastings at the Top, a food and wine extravaganza at Cradle Mountain Lodge.
Inspiring Nature and Sophistication Way Down Under
FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK
Tasmania, Australia
Freycinet National Park is a dramatic combination of pink granite mountains (called the Hazards), white sand beaches, and lapis-blue ocean, all easily explored. A self-guided 2½-hour nature walk through fields of wildflowers up and over a spine of mountains leads to legendary Wineglass Bay, one of Australia’s most beautiful panoramas. The athletic might opt for the 17-mile, 2- to 3-day Freycinet Peninsula circuit, taking in the stunning scenery of the coast with its rich array of wildlife. The area also lures a wide range of adventurers with opportunities for sea kayaking, rock climbing, rappelling, and scenic flights.
Nestled within the confines of the national park is the “disappearing” Freycinet Lodge, so carefully constructed that its 60 luxurious cabins with redwood terraces are barely visible from even a few feet away. Guests may choose from a host of nature-oriented activities, including visits to the breeding grounds of fairy penguins and black swans and guided walks through forests populated by marsupials, brilliant parrots, yellow wattlebirds, and laughing kookaburras. At the two on-site restaurants, you can sample Tasmania’s bounty: grass-fed lamb, succulent game meats, just-caught crayfish, and plump Freycinet oysters, paired with local boutique wines.
The arrival of the deluxe, eco-sensitive Saffire Freycinet marked a new pinnacle of refinement on the island. With views across deep-blue Great Oyster Bay to the peaks of the Hazard Mountains, the exclusive Saffire boasts 20 stylishly furnished rooms and a sanctuary-like setting that both uplifts and unwinds. The spa specializes in restorative treatments featuring gold and jewel powders, and the restaurant serves the finest in Tasmanian seafood and wines. For a more modest stay, head to the small seaside town of Swansea, an hour’s drive from the park, and check into the inviting hilltop Meredith House, a refurbished 1853 residence with 11 comfortable rooms—some with views of Great Oyster Bay—and attentive, affable owners always on hand.
WHERE: 115 miles/185 km northeast of Hobart. Tel 61/3-6256-7000; www.parks.tas.gov.au. FREYCINET LODGE: Tel 61/3-6257-0101; www.freycinetlodge.com.au. Cost: from $240; dinner at the Bay Restaurant $80. SAFFIRE FREYCINET: Tel 61/3-6256-7888; www.saffire-freycinet.com.au. Cost: suites from $1,565, includes breakfast, lunch, and activities; dinner $110. MEREDITH HOUSE: Tel 61/3-6257-8119; www.meredith-house.com.au. Cost: from $180. BEST TIMES: Feb–Mar for pleasant weather; Jul–Sep for whale-watching.
An Inspirational Ride to the Twelve Apostles
THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD
Victoria, Australia
Ranking among the world’s top scenic drives, this 150-mile-long highway hugs the cliffs on its way southwest of Melbourne along the rough-hewn southern coast of the Australian continent. Every bend of the journey reveals another breath-catching view of jagged bluffs, windswept beaches, or magnificent rain forest and parkland (keep your eyes peeled for koalas and kangaroos) along with glimpses of old whaling and fishing towns, inviting restaurants, and sweet B&Bs. The road will take you past prime surf spots, including world-famous Bell’s Beach, and such extraordinary rock formations as Loch Ard Gorge and the entire Bay of Islands.
The most famous of all is the Twelve Apostles—eight limestone sea pillars (originally there were nine, but the sea claimed one) that reach as high as 230 feet. They can be seen off a stretch of shoreline known as the Shipwreck Coast for the number of vessels lost here during colonization in the 1800s. It is the most spectacular segment of the Great Ocean Road, especially dramatic when the weather turns windy and stormy.
If you prefer to leave the car behind, lace up your hiking boots and explore this rugged coastline on foot, along the 65-mile Great Ocean Walk trail, which includes some of the route’s most scenic highlights. Sign on with a walking-tour operator for 4- to 6-day guided tours (34 miles and 65 miles respectively) with overnights in lodges along the way.
Of the small inns and resorts that can be found in the seafaring villages along the Great Ocean Road, two choices stand out. Just north of Apollo Bay, on 100 rolling acres at the edge of a secluded beach, Chocolate Gannets offers four very private, contemporary villas with spa baths, wood-burning fireplaces, and big picture windows affording breathtaking views. The Great Ocean Ecolodge is a more basic but comfortable five-room guesthouse on the grounds of the Cape Otway Centre for Conservation Ecology, a dedicated wildlife rehabilitation and ecological research center. You just might see grazing kangaroos or koalas climbing in eucalyptus trees outside your window. Venture out into the bush with wildlife researchers, or just relax at the lodge and enjoy the comforts of great cooking and a relaxing snooze in the hammock.
The Twelve Apostles continue to erode at a rate of 2 centimeters per year.
WHERE: starts at the surf-center town of Torquay, 49 miles/78 km southwest of Melbourne, and ends just outside Warrnambool. VISITOR INFO: www.visitvictoria.com. HOW: Bothfeet offers guided walks. Tel 61/3-5334-0688; www.bothfeet.com.au. Cost: 4-day hikes from $2,150, inclusive. Originate in Melbourne. CHOCOLATE GANNETS: Tel 61/1-3005-00-139; www.chocolategannets.com.au. Cost: from $345. GREAT OCEAN ECOLODGE: Tel 61/3-5237-9297; www.greatoceanecolodge.com. Cost: from $320. BEST TIMES: Mar–May for dry autumn weather; Jun–Oct for whale spotting; Sep–Nov for spring wildflowers.
Pearling Paradise on the Edge of the Continent
CABLE BEACH
Broome, Western Australia, Australia
Australians take their beaches seriously, so when they claim that Cable Beach in the town of Broome is among the continent’s most beautiful, take note. Large and lustrous South Sea pearls (from Pinctada maxima, the world’s largest pearl oysters) put Broome on the map in the early 1900s. Today it is both outback and a little bit glamorous, a free-and-easy town where gastro-tourists won’t be disappointed. The beach is the reason to go, though—after you’ve spent a day there, top things off with a sunset camel ride, the finest way to appreciate the 14 miles of sandy expanse and the swath of reds and violets that fills the sky as the sun disappears into the Indian Ocean. If you visit between March and October, watch for the natural phenomenon called Staircase to the Moon that occurs when the rising full moon is reflected on the exposed mudflats at extremely low tide, creating a optical illusion of a flight of stairs reaching up to the heavens.
The town owes its distinctive architectural look to the pearling masters from the early days, who built their bungalow homes of corrugated iron, adding wooden latticework screens and colonial verandas. Nowhere has the style been more beautifully executed than at the luxurious Cable Beach Club, set amid gardens and pools, and the only hotel adjacent to the beach. The town’s cosmopolitan mix of cultures inspires the resort’s kitchen, where Asian, European, and Aboriginal food traditions intersect deliciously.
In town opt for Pinctada McAlpine House, which has been transformed from a historic, century-old master pearler’s home to a charming boutique lodge. With room for just eight guests, it is an ideal spot in which to unwind and steep in the town’s unique character. A much celebrated addition to the Broome beach scene is the five-star Pinctada Cable Beach Resort and Spa. Try a treatment containing native botanicals and essence of mother of pearl from the Pinctada maxima, then visit Selene Brasserie, the resort’s sumptuous dining room, where local seafood is given an eastern Mediterranean twist.
/> A telegraph cable laid between Broome and Java gives the beach its name.
WHERE: 1,481 miles/2,389 km north of Perth. CABLE BEACH CLUB: Tel 61/8-9192-0400; www.cablebeachclub.com.au. Cost: from $320 (off-peak), from $460 (peak). MCALPINE HOUSE: Tel 61/8-9192-0510; www.mcalpinehouse.com.au. Cost: from $190 (off-peak), from $350 (peak). PINCTADA CABLE BEACH RESORT AND SPA: Tel 61/8-9193-8388; www.pinctadacablebeach.com.au. Cost: from $290 (off-peak), from $385 (peak); dinner $60. BEST TIMES: Apr–Oct for the dry season and near perfect weather; during full moons for Staircase to the Moon; Aug for Festival of the Pearl.
Wildflowers and Vineyards
MARGARET RIVER
Western Australia, Australia
In the last 30 years, the wine industry has given a cosmopolitan veneer to this remote and beautiful southwestern corner of the country, with its dazzling landscape of stunning surf beaches, carefully tended vines, and dense forests. Prestigious vintages by Vasse Felix, Cape Mentelle, Cullens, and the venerable Leeuwin Estate enjoy recognition around the world, and more than 90 cellar doors (tasting rooms and outlets) at these and other producers promise leisurely days spent vineyard hopping. Leeuwin Estate is well known for its program of alfresco concerts, a heralded summer event attracting world-class performers and ever-growing crowds.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 104