1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  But grapes aren’t all that grow here. The Margaret River area is famous for its spring wildflowers, which are at their peak from mid-September to mid-November, filling the countryside to the horizon with a kaleidoscope of color. More than 2,500 species have been identified in this part of the country, including 150-plus species of orchid. Over 60 percent of the plant species in Australia’s southwest are found nowhere else on earth, making it one of the world’s 34 “biodiversity hot spots” and the only one in Australia.

  Cape Lodge, one of Australia’s most tasteful and relaxing country retreats, is nestled among the vineyards near the town of Yallingup and sits within earshot of the sparkling Indian Ocean. Its 22 rooms and suites (and a magnificent five-bedroom luxury private residence) are scattered over 40 acres of parkland that centers on a beautiful free-form swimming pool. At the internationally acclaimed Cape Lodge Restaurant, the menu changes daily, and superbly prepared dishes are matched with premium Margaret River–area wines. Stylish and beautifully furnished, the nearby Llewellin’s Guest House is for wine-lovers seeking more intimate lodging. Offering just three guest rooms and set amid 8 tranquil acres of native bush habitat, the inn impresses with welcoming, friendly service and marvelous breakfasts.

  From either lodging, it’s a short drive to Margaret River, a delightful town full of antiques stores and craft shops as well as vineyard restaurants, where menus are designed “from the wine up” to highlight the special characteristics of each winery. A top choice is the marvelous lunch service at Voyager Estate, where the five-course tasting menu pairs the vineyard’s top vintages with an inspired seasonal menu.

  WHERE: 181 miles/291 km south of Perth. LEEUWIN ESTATE CONCERTS: Tel 61/8-9430-4099; www.leeuwinestate.com.au. When: Feb–Mar. CAPE LODGE: Tel 61/8-9755-6311; www.capelodge.com.au. Cost: from $480; dinner $105. LLEWELLIN’S GUEST HOUSE: Tel 61/8-9757-9516; www.llewellinsguesthouse.com.au. Cost: from $180. VOYAGER ESTATE: 61/8-9757-6354; www.voyagerestate.com.au. Cost: 5-course tasting menu lunch $130. BEST TIMES: Mar–Apr for grape harvest and Margaret River Wine Festival; mid-Sep–mid-Nov for wildflowers.

  Where Gentle Giants Gather

  SNORKELING WITH WHALE SHARKS

  Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, Australia

  One of the few places you can swim with the world’s largest fish is Ningaloo Reef, on Australia’s west coast. Whale sharks are capable of growing up to 60 feet long, though here they usually measure a relatively petite 12 to 40 feet. These gentle giants are nearly impossible to spot in open waters; Jacques Cousteau came across only two in his lifetime. But at the 200-mile-long Ningaloo Reef and a handful of other spots around the world (notably Belize and Honduras; see pp. 963 and 972), whale sharks appear regularly, arriving from April to July to feed on huge shoals of plankton, with little interest in any humans swimming nearby. Or at least they do for the moment: The placid sharks have so dwindled in number that they are now listed as nationally threatened, and for this reason, local tour operators restrict the number of people who are allowed to join the sharks in the water at one time. Ningaloo Blue Dive in Exmouth has a specially designed 50-foot vessel that can take up to 20 guests at a time.

  Consider staying at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, a stunning tent camp hidden in the dunes of Cape Range National Park, where the beach meets the reef, about an hour’s drive south of Exmouth. The main eco-sensitive camp rises above the dunes, and the open-air lodge building has views out to the reef. Alfresco dinners are served against a backdrop of a vivid sunset, when kangaroos and wallaroos arrive for their own evening graze. The reef in front of the camp is a major breeding ground for three kinds of turtles—hawksbill, green, and loggerhead.

  Whale sharks’ spots—along with their extreme length—stand out to snorkelers.

  WHERE: Exmouth is 780 miles/1,260 km north of Perth. NINGALOO BLUE DIVE: Tel 61/8-9949-1119; www.ningalooblue.com.au. Cost: 1-day dive $415. SAL SALIS: Tel 61/2-9571-6399; www.salsalis.com.au. Cost: 3- and 4-night whale shark–viewing packages from $3,350, all-inclusive. When: Apr–Jul.

  Ancient Mountain Range Hidden in the Outback

  THE KIMBERLEY AND THE BUNGLE BUNGLE RANGE

  Purnululu National Park, Western Australia, Australia

  In the northwestern part of Australia, called the Kimberley, there are fewer people per square mile than almost any other place on earth. Until the 1980s, just a few local Aborigines and a handful of stockmen knew about the strange landscape at the heart of this region, where thousands of orange-and-black-banded, beehive-shaped sandstone formations protrude hundreds of feet out of the ground. Known as the Bungle Bungle Range or the Bungles, they are part of Purnululu National Park, which measures roughly 925 square miles.

  Geologists say the range was formed hundreds of millions of years ago during the Devonian era, after a great marine deposit was eroded down to the present domes, cliffs, and gorges. Only a few visitors make the journey to this natural wonderland, and while the area is rich in Aboriginal art and sacred sites, its magnificence is best appreciated from a helicopter or plane, soaring above the seasonal waterfalls and pools.

  Still, backcountry enthusiasts might want to join a camping safari or hire a local Aboriginal guide for a trek through the majestic gorges carved into the Bungle Bungle limestone by seasonal rivers and creeks. Noncamping types can repair to El Questro Wilderness Park, a million-acre cattle station and high-end outback experience to the north of Purnululu Park. Explore one of the property’s many tropical gorges or remote water holes, or take a 4WD jaunt with a resident ranger, who will introduce you to the station’s thermal springs, waterfalls, and ancient Aboriginal rock art. You have a choice of staying in safari tents, bungalows, or experiencing the glamour of the El Questro Homestead, a small boutique hotel perched on the edge of the Chamberlain River and Gorge. With six luxurious rooms it promises the highest standards of cuisine and service, available to just a dozen guests at a time.

  A tight squeeze awaits at Echidna Chasm, part of the Bungles, which is only 2 yards wide at its narrowest points.

  WHERE: Kununurra is the eastern gateway to the Kimberley, 525 miles/840 km southwest of Darwin. PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK: 155 miles/250 km south of Kununurra. Tel 61/8-9168-4200; www.dec.wa.gov.au. HOW: Relaxing Journeys offers a 13-day camping tour that includes the Bungles. Tel 61/7-5474-3911; www.relaxingjourneys.com/au. Cost: $6,545. EL QUESTRO WILDERNESS PARK: Tel 61/8-9169-1777; www.elquestro.com.au. Cost: safari tent cabins from $290 per person; bungalows from $325; homestead rooms from $1,350, all-inclusive. When: closed Nov–Mar. BEST TIME: May–Oct for cooler weather.

  In the Wake of Captain Cook

  THE BAY OF ISLANDS

  North Island, New Zealand

  The nation of New Zealand was born along a knotty section of coast in the far north of the North Island, where more than 150 tiny islands known as the Bay Islands hopscotch across the deep blue waters, their tall Norfolk pines growing side by side with subtropical banana plants and fan palms. It was here in the town of Waitangi, in 1840, that British officers and Maori chiefs entered into a treaty that granted Queen Victoria sovereignty over New Zealand and made the Maori her subjects. The Bay of Islands is renowned as a recreational playground, particularly for its big-game fishing. The majority of fishing and kayaking trips, as well as those that take you to see the dolphins—and even swim with them—begin in the beachside town of Paihia. You can experience the region the way Captain James Cook did (he anchored here in 1769), with the wind in your hair and the flapping of sails overhead as you slip past hundreds of hidden coves and secret beaches aboard the schooner R. Tucker Thompson, anchoring for a swim and a barbeque lunch. (Watch for minke and Bryde’s whales from August to January.)

  The charming historic town of Russell is also a departure point for bay excursions. Formerly a rowdy whaling port and New Zealand’s first capital, its picturesque waterfront is lined with quaint Colonial buildings, including the venerable old Duke of Marlborough Hotel, a good place to stay the night, enjoy a great meal, or sim
ply stop for a drink with local yachtsmen on the veranda. For even more historic charm, head up to Arcadia Lodge, a hillside B&B with half a dozen rooms and an open deck with 180-degree water views and an elaborate breakfast. Or make a 90-minute coastal drive and check into one of the elegant suites dotted along the stunning championship golf course at the Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, in Matauri Bay. It is set on 6,500 coastal acres of a working farm with over 4,000 sheep and cattle, and has three private beaches and an inviting spa.

  Urupukapuka Island is the largest of the 150 Bay Islands.

  WHERE: Paihia is 143 miles/230 km north of Auckland. R. TUCKER THOMPSON: Tel 64/9-402-8430; www.tucker.co.nz. Cost: 5½-hour cruise with lunch $105. When: closed May–Sep. DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH: Tel 64/9-403-7829; www.theduke.co.nz. Cost: from $175; lunch $35. ARCADIA LODGE: Tel 64/9-403-7756; www.arcadialodge.co.nz. Cost: from $150. LODGE AT KAURI CLIFFS: Tel 64/9-407-0010; www.kauricliffs.com. Cost: suites from $1,000 (off-peak), from $1,575 (peak), inclusive. HOW: Seasonz Travel arranges personalized New Zealand itineraries. Tel 64/9-360-8461; www.seasonz.co.nz. BEST TIMES: Feb–Jun for game fishing; Nov–Apr for nicest weather.

  A Paradise for Rainbow Trout and Those They Lure

  LAKE TAUPO AND TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

  North Island, New Zealand

  Local bumper stickers call Lake Taupo “The Rainbow Trout Capital of the Universe,” and they’re not exaggerating: Even by New Zealand standards, these fish are monsters, with the average catch weighing in at 4 pounds and 10-pounders causing barely a stir among the anglers who flock here. The nation’s largest lake, measuring 20 by 25 miles, Taupo is the crater of an ancient volcano. It’s located near the center of the North Island and framed by three active volcanoes in nearby Tongariro National Park.

  Huka Lodge is the area’s star resort, the ne plus ultra of European-flavored country sporting lodges. With its proximity to the lake (it’s just 3 miles away) and the Waikato River running through its 17-acre grounds, its name is spoken with reverence among anglers around the world. Eighteen spacious rooms and suites and two exclusive private cottages are located along the serene, willow-draped banks of the river. Ask to have a gourmet lunch hamper prepared and spend an afternoon downstream at mighty Huka Falls, fed by a series of churning rapids formed by a sudden narrowing of the river. Then visit the nearby Volcanic Activity Center, which provides excellent insight into the area’s geothermal activity, or take the hour’s drive north to the bubbling spectacle of Rotorua (see p. 670) and see it for yourself.

  The intrepid will want to set aside a day to tackle the 11-mile Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which traverses a stunning volcanic landscape within the Tongariro National Park. Considered by most to be the best one-day tramp in the country, PureORAwalks offers treks led by a Maori guide, who will make it the highlight of your visit. At the end of the day, kick back at the 1920s-era Bayview Chateau Tongariro, built at the base of Mount Raupehu, an active volcano. The grande dame of the park, the lodge fills with hikers in the summer and with those who come for the nearby Whakapapa Ski Field in the winter. It’s worth dropping in for Devonshire tea, even if you’re not spending the night.

  Tongariro Alpine Crossing’s high altitude brings trampers above the clouds.

  WHERE: 174 miles/280 km south of Auckland. HOW: Chris Jolly Boats operates 4 vessels with crew and fishing guides. Tel 64/7-378-0623; www.chrisjolly.co.nz. Cost: from $135 per hour, or from $12 per person per hour. HUKA LODGE: Tel 64/7-378-5791; www.hukalodge.co.nz. Cost: from $630 per person, inclusive (off-peak), from $1,095 (peak). VOLCANIC ACTIVITY CENTER: Tel 64/7-374-8375; www.volcanoes.co.nz. PUREORAWALKS: Tel 64/21-042-2722; www.pureorawalks.com. BAYVIEW CHATEAU TONGARIRO: Tel 64/7-892-3809; www.chateau.co.nz. Cost: from $195. BEST TIMES: Oct–Apr for fishing; Jul–mid-Nov for skiing.

  An Art Deco Time Capsule in a Wine-Lover’s Enclave

  NAPIER AND HAWKES BAY

  North Island, New Zealand

  In 1931, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck the east coast of the North Island and fire tore the downtown of Napier apart. The residents rebuilt in the popular architectural style of the day, and now the port city stands alongside Miami Beach (see p. 752) as one of the world’s great examples of an Art Deco community. February’s annual Art Deco Weekend, replete with vintage cars and women dressed as flappers, attests to the locals’ love of their hometown’s history, but it’s also one of their many excuses to indulge in their true passion: food and wine.

  The Hawkes Bay area is the second largest wine-growing region in New Zealand—after South Island’s Marlborough (see p. 675)—with more than 70 vineyards. French missionaries first planted vines here in 1851 and started the Mission Estate Winery, still immensely popular and offering both historical tours and some of the bay’s finest bottles. The same missionaries built a nearby church that’s now converted to a restaurant fittingly called the Old Church. It is one of the town’s finest dining establishments and arguably the most beautiful building in which to sample fine food as well as local red wines and chardonnays. A more rustic (but sophisticated) experience awaits at the French-flavored Terroir, which sits on the scenic grounds of the Craggy Range winery.

  While many would be happy to simply eat and drink their way through Hawkes Bay (plenty of local companies run vineyard tours), the mild weather demands that one venture away to breathe the coastal air—and maybe hit the links. Golf Magazine rated the championship course at Cape Kidnappers as one of the world’s finest. Set atop rolling cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea, it’s 30 minutes south of Napier and part of a 6,000-acre sheep farm that includes an exclusive lodge and the largest, most easily glimpsed mainland colony of gannets in the world; around 17,000 of them nest here from September through May.

  If you prefer to be closer to Napier and the vineyards, stay at the award-winning Master’s Lodge, a converted plantation house with just two exquisite suites that sits upon Bluff Hill, a lush piece of property that used to be an island until the earthquake raised it 20 feet out of the water and connected it to the mainland. Your dollars will stretch further if you stay at the welcoming Havelock House, a luxurious B&B whose three suites and one apartment overlook flowering gardens, a pool, and tennis courts.

  WHERE: Napier is 196 miles/315 km north of Wellington. MISSION ESTATE WINERY: Tel 64/6-845-9350; www.missionestate.co.nz. OLD CHURCH: Tel 64/6-844-8866; www.theoldchurch.co.nz. Cost: dinner $55. TERROIR: 64/6-873-0143; www.craggyrange.com. Cost: 3-course tasting menu $70. CAPE KIDNAPPERS: Tel 64/6-875-1900; www.capekidnappers.com. Cost: from $1,010 (off-peak), from $1,450 (peak), inclusive; greens fees from $200 (off-peak), $270 (peak), discount for overnight guests. MASTER’S LODGE: Tel 64/6-834-1946; www.masterslodge.co.nz. Cost: from $630. HAVELOCK HOUSE: Tel 64/6-877-5439; www.havelockhouse.co.nz. Cost: from $145. BEST TIMES: Oct–Apr for good weather; Feb for Art Deco Weekend in Napier.

  Seaside Sheep Station

  WHAREKAUHAU COUNTRY ESTATE

  Palliser Bay, North Island, New Zealand

  A sheep ranch is not the first thing that comes to mind when you think “luxurious getaway,” but Wharekauhau (“the place where the gods meet” in the Maori language) is all about confounding expectations. A sprawling 5,500-acre farm that includes miles of secluded black volcanic sand beaches, emerald green pastures, and dense forests rich with red deer, wild boar, and mountain goats, Wharekauhau welcomes guests with both homespun hospitality and top-drawer amenities. Of course, guests can roll up their sleeves and help with the sheep shearing, but they are also free to bliss out in the serene spa or to simply float in the indoor pool. And there’s always horseback riding, strolls along the beach, surf casting, and trips to explore historic Maori sites and local wineries when you feel like venturing farther afield.

  Set aside a day to visit Cape Palliser and its red-and-white lighthouse that rises from the rocks like a barber pole and marks the southernmost point of the North Island. The drive hugs cliffs and coast and serves up some unique sights, including a large fur seal rookery and some curi
ous collections of beached fishing boats that locals drag ashore via bulldozers and trailers in order to protect them from the notoriously rough surf. On the way home, make a detour to the Putangirua Pinnacles for a short hike up a dry riverbed to one of the country’s geological oddities, a maze of crumbling rock spires, or hoodoos, some up to 150 feet high. When you return to the farm, you’ll be able to recount your adventures over a dinner of simple, elegantly presented country fare served with wonderful wines from the nearby Martinborough region.

  WHERE: 66 miles/105 km southeast of Wellington. Tel 64/6-307-7581; www.wharekauhau.co.nz. COST: from $515 per person, inclusive (off-peak), from $790 (peak). BEST TIME: Nov–Apr for good weather.

  The World Cracked Open

  BUBBLING ROTORUA

  North Island, New Zealand

  At Rotorua, the center of the intense thermal field of the Taupo Volcanic Plateau, mud pools spit, geysers shoot high into the air, and sulfurous steam and gas hiss through crevices in the earth’s surface, creating a bizarre geothermal spectacle that George Bernard Shaw called “the most hellish scene” he had ever witnessed. There are hot and cold rivers, otherworldly-looking natural silica terraces, and the unpredictable Pohutu Geyser, which sprays up to 100 feet in the air.

  One-third of New Zealand’s Maori live in the area, and their legends explain the strange geological phenomena as a gift of fire from the gods. It was a gift the first British settlers relished, as Rotorua became a booming spa town in the 1840s. And although it has become commercialized (some refer to it as Roto-Vegas), people are still drawn to its sometimes frightening natural wonders.