Lonely Planet Laos
Page 24
FOUR DAYS
Depending on what time you crawl out of bed on day three, make PVO your lunch destination. It's then a short walk to the COPE Visitor Centre, where you could easily spend a couple hours checking out the excellent exhibits and powerful documentaries. After a light Lao dinner at Khambang Lao Food Restaurant, head to nearby Herbal Sauna for a healthy Lao-style sweat. Rehydrate with draught Beerlao at Bor Pen Yang.
Day four can be spent at a Lao cooking course at Villa Lao, handicraft and textile shopping along Thanon Nokèokoummane, rummaging for communist wristwatches and glass Buddhas at Indochina Handicrafts, or sniffing and waxing lyrical about the handmade soaps and oils at T'Shop Lai Gallery.
2Activities
Nakarath TravelADVENTURE SPORTS
(www.nakarathtravel.com)
Upscale destination management company based in Vientiane that arranges guided cultural immersions around the country.
Sinouk Coffee PavilionCOFFEE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-2000654; www.sinouk-cafe.com; Km 9, Th Tha Deua; h8am-5pm)
Located at the headquarters of Sinouk Coffee, one of Laos' best-known coffee producers, this is an education in the bean. Learn more about the art of coffee production at the coffee gallery and mini-museum paying homage to caffeine, and in roasting and cupping rooms, where you might be lucky enough to see the production process underway.
Regular cupping sessions are held on Saturdays, but check on its Facebook page (sinoukcoffeeofficial) for details. This is like wine tasting for coffee connoisseurs and costs about 60,000K for a two-hour session. To book a private session, contact Sinouk one day in advance. Short barista courses are also available and you'll end up knowing how to decorate an artisan coffee. There is an on-site Sinouk Cafe here that makes a good stop on the way to or from Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) if you have your own wheels. It is signposted just past the US Embassy when travelling towards the Friendship Bridge from Vientiane.
Ocean ParkWATER PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-2819014; ITECC Vientiane; adult/child 50,000/25,000K; h11am-7pm)
Shiver me timbers me hearties! This new water park has a pirate theme and includes a good range of slides, tubes, lazy river riding and more. A good option for families on a hot day.
Lao Bowling CentreBOWLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218661; Th Khounboulom; per game with shoe hire 16,000K; h9am-midnight)
Bright lights, Beerlao and boisterous bowlers are what you'll find here. While the equipment is in bad shape, it's still a fun place to come later in the evening for a Lao-style night out. It sometimes stays open into the wee hours.
2Cycling Tour
Monument to Vientiane
Start Le Banneton
End Chokdee Cafe
Length 5km; four to six hours
Vientiane is a great city to explore on bicycle. We suggest starting in the cool hours of the morning and including breakfast and lunch stops; if you're doing the tour later you could regard these as lunch and dinner stops. Some attractions, such as Talat Khua Din, are best visited early in the day.
Begin your day with coffee and a crispy croissant at one of Th Nokèokoummane's excellent French bakeries such as 1Le Banneton. There's a bike-rental place virtually next door, and a few more on adjacent Th François Ngin; most open at 7am and charge about 10,000K per day.
Hop on your bike, turn on to one-way Th Setthathirath, and passing 2Nam Phu, Vientiane's underwhelming fountain, continue about 1km to the stoplight. On your right is the 3Presidential Palace, a vast beaux-arts-style chateau built to house the French colonial governor.
Directly opposite is 4Wat Si Saket, with its thousands of Buddha figures, and just up the road, 5Haw Pha Kaeo, the national museum for religious objects. By arriving in the morning you'll beat most of the crowds.
Continuing on along Th Setthathirath, cross Th Mahasot and turn left down Th Gallieni. You'll know you're in the right place by the white walls of the 6French Embassy on your left and the towering 7Sacred Heart Cathedral on your right. Continue northwest along this street until you reach the T-intersection; on the opposite side is the barely noticeable entrance to 8Talat Khua Din, one of Vientiane's largest fresh-food markets.
Continuing northwest along Th Khu Vieng, turn right onto Th Lan Xang, a street sometimes (very) generously described as the 'Champs-Elysées of the East'. At this point you're directly in front of Vientiane's biggest market, 9Talat Sao, a great place for textiles.
Continuing northeast along Th Lan Xang, you'll pass by the aTourist Information Centre. At this point you're also only 500m from bPatuxai, which is worth climbing for unbeatable views of the city.
Circle around Patuxai and go back southwest along Th Lan Xang. Turn right into quiet Th Bartholomie. Pass the site of the cformer US Embassy and continue to dThat Dam. The gold that covered this stupa was allegedly carted off by the Siamese during their pillaging of 1828. If you can pass here without being swallowed by the giant naga (river serpent) that allegedly lurks beneath, continue southwest and turn right onto Th Samsènethai.
Continue two blocks until, on your left-hand, side you see the gaudy Chinese-funded eLao National Culture Hall. Directly opposite this is the fLao National Museum, worth a stop to gain some insight into ancient and modern Laos.
Continue another 500m along one-way Th Samsènethai until you reach the stoplight. Turn left and head southwest along Th Khounboulom. Continue until you reach gKhambang Lao Food Restaurant. This family-run place is central Vientiane's best Lao restaurant and your lunch destination.
Backtrack a block northeast along Th Khounboulom until you reach hWat In Paeng, famed for the artistry displayed in the stucco relief of the sǐm (ordination hall). Weaving to Th Setthathirath via Th Chao Anou, park your bike at iWat Ong Teu Mahawihan and visit the temple's namesake, a 16th-century bronze Buddha measuring 5.8m tall and weighing several tonnes. The sǐm that houses the Buddha is famous for the wooden facade over its front terrace, a masterpiece of Lao carving. Take a break at shady and little-visited jWat Haysoke before your final temple stop, kWat Mixai, with its Bangkok-style sǐm and heavy gates, flanked by two nyak (guardian giants).
Continue east on Th Setthathirath until you reach the Nam Phu fountain again and turn right down Th Pangkham, then right again on Th Fa Ngoum where you will find the lChokdee Cafe, a homely little spot with an incredible number of Belgian beers to slake your well-earned thirst.
Health & Fitness
Vientiane Yoga StudioYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-78510490; www.vientianeyogastudio.weebly.com; 90min class 80,000K; h9am & 6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm & 5.30pm Sat)
Hatha, vinyasa, yin and advanced (upside-down) yoga, as well as pilates, are available at this location in a quiet garden down a secluded street. Instructor Nanci has 10 years' experience.
Bee Bee FitnessHEALTH & FITNESS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315877; 1-day membership 45,000K; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-9pm Sat & Sun)
This terrific gym overlooks the Mekong so you can run on a treadmill and watch passing boats. There's loads of room to enjoy its decent equipment: rowing machines, spinning bikes and weightlifting apparatus. Regular Zumba and pilates classes are available. It's located opposite the Australian embassy.
Massage & Spa
oOasisMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th François Ngin; h9am-9pm)
Cool, clean and professional, Oasis is an excellent central place to enjoy a foot massage (50,000K), a Lao-style body massage (60,000K) or a peppermint body scrub (200,000K), to name a few. Probably the best-value spa in the city.
Tangerine Garden SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-251452; off Th Fa Ngoum; h9am-9pm)
Arguably the most upscale spa in Vientiane, Tangerine Garden is located opposite the beautiful Ansara Hôtel and complements its colonial-era look. The Sino-Lao lobby sets the tone for a relaxing journey that includes foot massage (80,000K), aroma massage (180,000K) and the 'office syndrome' massage (100,000K) that focuses on the
neck, shoulders and back.
Herbal SaunaMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55044655; off Th Chao Anou; h1-9pm)
Located near the river, this no-frills outfit offers Lao-style herbal saunas (15,000K) in separate rooms for men and women. In addition to the sauna it also offers a variety of massage, including Lao (per hour 40,000K), oil (per hour 80,000K) and foot (per hour 40,000K).
Wat Si AmphonSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Si Amphon; h7am-5pm)
Wat Si Amphon does herbal saunas and is one of the only temples to offer this experience after the demise of the Wat Sok Pa Luang herbal sauna in a 2013 fire.
CCourses
Houey Hong Vocational Training Center for WomenWEAVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-560006; www.houeyhongcentre.com; Ban Houey Hong; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
You can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them on a traditional loom at this NGO centre, run by a Lao-Japanese woman. It was established north of Vientiane to train disadvantaged rural women in the dying art of natural dyeing and traditional silk-weaving practices.
Visitors can look for free or partake in the dyeing process (100,000K, two hours, one scarf) or weaving (250,000K, whole day). You keep the fruits of your labour. Transport to and from the centre is provided for an additional 50,000K from True Colour, the centre's retail location in town.
Villa LaoCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22217588; www.villalaos.com; off Th Nong Douang; half-day class per person US$25)
Villa Lao offers cooking courses at 9am and 1pm by appointment, and involve a trip to the market, preparation of three dishes of your choice and sampling your creations. It's a very peaceful setting for classes, like a slice of country life in the city.
Summer Study Abroad in LaosLANGUAGE
(SAIL; www.laostudies.org/sail; 5-week course US$2760)
An intensive language study program at a variety of levels hosted by the Lao-American College in Vientiane.
TTours
oTuk Tuk SafariCULTURAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-54333089; www.tuktuksafari.com; adult/child under 12 US$70/40; h8am-5pm)
This community-conscious tour company gets under the skin of Vientiane in a tuk-tuk. Tour guide Ere spirits you to a Lao market; a silversmith's workshop; behind the scenes at a restaurant helping street kids learn to become chefs (before sampling their delicious food!); and finally, the inspiring COPE Visitor Centre for UXO victims.
Lao Disabled Women's Development CentreCULTURAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-812282; http://laodisabledwomen.com; 100 Th Tha Deua; tours 50,000-100,000K; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, weekends by appointment)S
Run by a collective of Lao disabled women, this centre challenges the prejudices that the disabled community in Laos sometimes faces. Concentrating on abilities, the centre offers training and education to empower disabled women. It is open to drop-in visitors for free, or you can sign up for a tour to learn about recycled-paper handicrafts.
Backstreet AcademyTOURS
(%020-58199216; www.backstreetacademy.com)
For some original local encounters, contact Backstreet Academy, a peer-to-peer travel website that specialises in connecting travellers to cultural experiences with local hosts. Choose from a muay Lao (kickboxing) class, a traditional dance lesson, a Lao cooking class in a private home, a painting class, zen meditation and a whole lot more.
zFestivals & Events
Pi MaiCULTURAL
(hApr)
Lao New Year is celebrated in mid-April with a mass water fight and tourists are considered fair game. Be warned, drunk driving and theft go through the roof at these times so remain vigilant with your driver and wallet!
Bun NamSPORTS
(Bun Suang Héua; hOct)
A huge annual event at the end of pansăh (the Buddhist rains retreat) in October, during which boat races are held on the Mekong River. Rowing teams from all over the country, as well as from Thailand, China and Myanmar (Burma), compete; the river bank is lined with food stalls, temporary discos, carnival games and beer gardens for three days and nights.
Bun Pha That LuangCULTURAL
(That Luang Festival; hNov)
Bun Pha That Luang, usually held in early November, is the largest temple fair in Laos. Festivities begin with a wéean téean (circumambulation) around Wat Si Muang, followed by a procession to Pha That Luang, which is illuminated all night for a week.
The festival climaxes on the morning of the full moon with the đák bàht ceremony, in which thousands of monks from across Laos receive alms. Fireworks cap off the evening and everyone makes merit or merry until dawn. Look out for devotees carrying Ъąhsàht (miniature temples made from banana stems and decorated with flowers and other offerings).
4Sleeping
Thanon Setthathirath & Nam Phu
Dream Home Hostel 2HOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-95591102; dreamhomehostel2@gmail.com; Th Sihom; dm 50,000K, r US$25; aW)
A classic backpacker crash pad, this is one of the most popular hostels in the city. Reception introduces the party atmosphere with some cranked-up tunes and a pool table, and murals deck the upper walls. The rooms are actually pretty good value given the size and features like flat-screen TV – almost flashpacker territory.
Vientiane Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-97484277; www.vientianebackpackershostel.com; Th Nokèokoummane; dm incl breakfast 40,000K; niW)
This fresh hostel has three mixed dorms for 12, 16 and 20 people. There's a cafe selling burgers and shakes, laundry services, free wi-fi, and bicycle/motorbike hire (10,000/70,000K). Bathrooms and showers are modern and clean, but there's no self-catering. Free ticketing and visa services round things off.
Orange Backpacker HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22455588; vonglatsamy24@gmail.com; Th Sihom; dm 45,000K, r 70,000-120,000K; aiW)
A popular backpacker hostel in the emerging Th Sihom strip, Orange has cheap dorms for those on a budget, especially when you consider the rate includes breakfast. Air-con rooms start at 100,000K and internet access is available for 10,000K per hour, as well as free wi-fi.
Sport GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-241352; sportguesthouse.sg@hotmail.com; Th François Ngin; with fan/air-con r 80,000/100,000K, tr 120,000/150,000K; naiW)
Formerly the Lao Youth Inn; rooms here are a little boxy but fragrant, with spotless bathrooms and polished tiled floors, and what the place lacks in refinement it makes up for in amenities, including a decent cafe and juice bar, ticketing services, and bicycle and motorbike hire (10,000/60,000K).
Lucky BackpackerHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-255636; Th Manthatourath; dm/d 40,000/140,000K; aW)
A clean new joint, with spacious dorms, decent showers and a private double room with air-con but no window. Beds have lockers underneath but no locks. Friendly management.
oLV City Riverine HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214643; www.lvcitylaos.com; 48 Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast 220,000-390,000K; naW)
Not to be confused with various other 'city' hotels in the capital, the LV has a great location near the riverfront. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, although it is worth the ego-massage of VIP just for the four-poster bed and extra space. Rooms include laundry, so will be even better value if you are returning from a jungle trek.
oHotel KhamvongsaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218415; www.hotelkhamvongsa.com; Th Khounboulom; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$40/60/80; naW)
Lovely French-era building lovingly reincarnated as a welcoming boutique hotel; think belle époque touches like glass tear lightshades, chess-tiled floors, and softly lit simple rooms with two-poster beds, wood floors and Indo-chic decor. Rooms on the 3rd and 4th floors have masterful views. There's also a restful courtyard and restaurant. Breakfast is a treat.
Vientiane Garden HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-241964
; http://vientianegardenhotel.com; 56 Th Sihom; r incl breakfast US$40-80; naWs)
Something of a flashpacker hotel amid an emerging strip of backpacker hostels, this is a little oasis that's not immediately apparent from the understated entrance. Venture inside to find a hidden courtyard pool and leafy garden that are perfect places to cool down on a hot day. Upstairs rooms command a slight premium.
Lani's House by the PondGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215639; www.lanishouse-bytheponds.com; Th Setthathirath; s/d/ste US$45/65/80; naW)
Down a narrow side street leading to a temple, this white art deco–accented villa evokes Indochina with its authentic Parisien chandeliers, antique furniture, lobby peppered with stunning images of old Laos, and coy carp in an ornamental pool. It's hard to believe you're in the city centre. Huge rooms with shabby-chic armoire, cable TV and fridge. Tasteful.
Vayakorn InnHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215348; www.vayakorn.biz; 19 Th Hèngbounnoy; r US$35; naiW)
On a quiet street just off increasingly hectic Th Setthathirath, this tasteful, peaceful hotel is great value given its chandeliered lobby festooned in handicrafts and hardwood floors. Generously sized rooms are impeccably clean, with crisp linen, choice art, flat-screen TVs, desks and modern bathrooms. The rooms on the upper floors have excellent city views.