Lonely Planet Laos
Page 33
Lowland Lao dominate the population and, along with smaller groups of tribal Thais, are the people you'll mostly meet. In remoter areas the Mon-Khmer-speaking Makong people (commonly known as Bru) make up more than 10% of the population of Khammuan.
Much of the region is relatively sparsely populated and six large tracts of forest have been declared National Protected Areas (NPAs). These areas have become a major battleground between those wishing to exploit Laos' hydroelectricity capacity and those wishing to preserve some of the most pristine wilderness areas in Asia. For now, the developers have the upper hand.
8Getting There & Away
These twin provinces are well connected to the rest of Laos with bus links and good surfaced roads connecting Tha Kheak with Vientiane to the north; Savannakhet and Pakse to the south; Thailand (via the Mekong to the west); and Vietnam to the east.
Paksan ປາກຊັນ
Pop 45,000 / %054
Located at the confluence of the Nam San (San River) and the Mekong River, Paksan (ປາກຊັນ; Pakxan or Pakxanh) is the capital of Bolikhamsai Province. Although it's not the most exciting place in Laos, it has a few guesthouses and restaurants and is a possible stop if you're pedalling between Vientiane and Tha Khaek or Kong Lor. It's possible to cross into Thailand via the Mekong River, but hardly anyone travels this way.
4Sleeping & Eating
BK Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%054-212638; r 70,000-80,000K; aW)
Set in a leafy garden dripping in frangipani flowers, this house-proud guesthouse has eight rooms, all immaculately clean with en suites and fresh linen, and the friendly owner speaks English. A great place if you get stuck here for the night.
Paksan HotelHOTEL$
(%054-791444; Rte 13; r 120,000-200,000K; naW)
This huge Vietnamese-run, temple-roofed colossus has 32 well-sized rooms with TV, fridge, verandah and armoire. 'VIP' rooms are available, but only if your idea of VIP is faux-leather sofas.
Sokbounma HotelHOTEL$$
(%054-790994; Rte 13; r incl breakfast 200,000-350,000K; naW)
Currently the smartest hotel in town, the Sokbounma offers 34 rooms with all the trimmings, including flat-screen TV and sparkling bathroom with rain shower.
Saynamsan RestaurantLAOTIAN$
(%054-212608; mains 15,000-90,000K; h7am-11pm)
In town, at the northwestern end of the bridge crossing the Nam San, this friendly riverside restaurant is a great spot to catch the breeze on its terrace. The menu dishes up spicy squid soup, curry and láhp (spicy Lao-style salad of minced meat poultry or fish).
Sengphachan RestaurantLAOTIAN$
(Rte 13; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-9pm)
One of the longest-running restaurants in Paksan, Sengphachan is located on the main drag and does a steady trade in passing traffic on Rte 13. Dishes include grilled meats, steaming soups and freshly prepared stir-fried vegies.
8Information
There's a Lao Development Bank just east of the market and a BCEL ATM on Rte 13 about 200m east of the Paksan Hotel.
8Getting There & Away
Local buses leave from outside Paksan's Talat Sao (Main Market) on Rte 13 for Vientiane (30,000K, three hours, 143km) between 6am and 4.30pm, with most departures in the morning. Sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) also leave frequently from the market, or just hail anything going west.
If you're heading to Vietnam, sŏrngtăaou depart for Lak Sao (60,000K, five to six hours, 189km) at 5am, 5.30am and 6.30am, or whenever they are full.
All buses heading south from Vientiane pass through Paksan about two hours after they leave the capital: just wait outside Talat Sao.
GETTING TO THAILAND: PAKSAN TO BEUNG KAN
Getting to the border Few travellers use the Paksan (Laos)/Beung Kan (Thailand) border crossing (8am to noon and 1.30 to 4.30pm) via the Mekong River. The boat (60B, 20 minutes) leaves when eight people show up or you can charter it (500B).
At the border If you turn up at the Lao immigration office, they should process the paperwork without too much fuss, though it is very important to note that Lao visas are not available on arrival.
Moving on In Thailand buses leave Beung Kan for Udon Thani (245B, four hours), where there are onward connections to Bangkok via budget airlines or long-distance bus.
Pak Kading
East from Vientiane along Rte 13 is the sleepy yet picturesque village of Pak Kading, sitting just upstream from the junction of the Mekong River and the Nam Kading (Kading River), one of the most pristine rivers in Laos (for now, at least). Flowing through a forested valley surrounded by high hills and menacing-looking limestone formations, this broad, turquoise-tinted river winds its way into the Nam Kading NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດນໍ້າກະດິງ ).
The Nam Kading (Kading River) is undoubtedly the best way into the wilderness that is Nam Kading NPA, where confirmed animal rarities include the elephant, giant muntjac, pygmy slow loris, François' langur, douc langur, gibbon, dhole, Asiatic black bear, tiger and many bird species. As usual in Laos, it is very unlikely that you will actually see any of these. Note that at the time of writing it was very difficult to access the NPA, as the regional government are restricting boat access via the river.
Whether the nearby waterfall is in full flow or dried up, Pak Kading is a good place to stop for a meal at the Bounxou Restaurant (%055-320046; Rte 13; mains 15,000-45,000K; h8am-9pm), where the fish dishes are famous with Lao itinerants passing this way.
As a main highway town, there are buses aplenty passing through Pak Kading on their way to Vientiane (three to four hours, 187km), Tha Khaek (three hours) or points east.
Ban Khoun Kham (Ban Na Hin)
Pop 3000 / %054
The former role of Ban Khoun Kham (also known as Ban Na Hin) as a base from which to visit the extraordinary Tham Kong Lor has been seriously undercut by Ban Kong Lor, which has recently been acquitting itself to cater for tourists headed to the nearby cave, and as such there's a little tumbleweed blowing through town. However, there is an attractive waterfall near town and some great viewpoints across the jagged karst landscape if you do decide to stay here.
1Sights
Tat NamsanamWATERFALL
(ຕາດນ້ຳສະນາມ )
The main local attraction is the impressive twin-cataract of Tat Namsanam, 3km north of town, although in the dry season, it's, well, dry. The falls are in a striking location surrounded by karst and the upper tier is quite high.
Unfortunately, the path and signs leading to the falls aren't entirely clear, and more than one foreign visitor has got lost here. Proceed with caution, or better yet, hire a guide through the excellent Tourist Information Centre, just south of the Tat Namsanam entrance, which runs community-based treks from here into the Phu Hin Bun NPA.
Stone Forest ViewpointVIEWPOINT
As you approach Ban Khoun Kham from Rte 13, there is a sala (open-sided shelter) viewpoint between Km 32 and Km 33. Do not, whatever you do, miss the spectacularly dramatic scenery below; somewhere between a dream and a nightmare, the landscape rears raggedly with black rock formations.
Tha Bak Bomb BoatsHISTORIC SITE
About 18km east of Ban Khoun Kham, Tha Bak sits near the confluence of the Nam Kading and Nam Theun. The reason to stop here is to either take photos of the river or get out on the incredible bomb boats, which are made out of huge missile-shaped drop tanks that carried fuel for jets operating overhead during the war. If you fancy a spin on one, just head down to the riverbank at the eastern end of the bridge and negotiate a price.
4Sleeping
Sanhak GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%020-22334691; sanhak.guesthouse@gmail.com; dm 25,000K; r 50,000-80,000K; naW)
One of the most popular guesthouses in Ban Khoun Kham thanks to advertising in the motorbike-rental shops along Tha Khaek, this is a friendly backstreet place to stay. Cheap-as-chips dorms and comfortable rooms with hot water are available. There's also a small rest
aurant here.
Inthapaya GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%020-22336534; r with fan/air-con 60,000/90,000K; naiW)
Fresh-smelling powder-blue rooms with tiled floors, clean en suites and optional fan or air-con. There's also a neat little courtyard cafe. It's northeast of the main street. The owner speaks excellent English.
oSainamhai ResortRESORT$$
(%020-22331683; www.sainamhairesort.com; r 150,000-240,000K; naW)
By far the dreamiest and most cosy accommodation in town – except it's not in town. Thankfully Sainamhai sits by the Nam Hai (Hai River) a little out of the village. There's a handsome longhouse restaurant, a fertile garden and well-maintained rattan-walled cabanas with private balconies, en suites and clean linen. Add to this warm service and cool air-con. Convinced? We are.
It's 3km east of Rte 8 via a turn-off a few kilometres down the road that leads to Tham Kong Lor. Staff will pick you up for free at the sŏrngtăaou station if you call ahead.
8Information
Tourist Information Centre (%020-55598412; Rte 8; h8am-4pm) Just south of the Tat Namsanam entrance, this efficiently run centre operates community-based treks from here into the Phu Hin Bun NPA. Ask to speak to Thoum.
8Getting There & Away
There are two morning departures from Tha Khaek to Ban Khoun Kham (50,000K, three hours, 143km) at 8am and 9am. Alternatively, from Tha Khaek or Vientiane, simply hop on any north- or southbound bus and get off at Vieng Kham (also known as Thang Beng), at the junction of Rtes 13 and 8, and continue by sŏrngtăaou (25,000K, one hour, 7am to 7pm) to Ban Khoun Kham. It's easier to take a Vientiane–Lak Sao bus and ask to get off in Ban Khoun Kham (75,000K).
Later in the day you'll need to take any of the semi-regular sŏrngtăaou to Vieng Kham (30,000K, 7am to 5pm) or, if you're bound for the Vietnam border, Lak Sao (25,000K, 7am to 5pm) and change there. Both are about one hour from Ban Khoun Kham. To Tham Kong Lor, sŏrngtăaou leave at 10am, 12.30pm and 3pm (25,000K, one hour).
Tham Kong Lor ຖ້ຳລອດກອງລໍ
Tham Kong Lor (ຖ້ຳລອດກອງລໍ) is one of central Laos', if not the country's, most vivid highlights. A journey into this preternatural underworld is like a voyage into the afterworld itself, with a 7.5km river passing through the cathedral-high limestone cave.
Ban Kong Lor (Kong Lor Village) is the most convenient base for visiting the cave and has seen an explosion of guesthouses and small resorts in the last few years.
2Activities
oTham Kong LorCAVING, BOATING
(cave entrance 5000K, parking fee 5000K, boat trip 1/2/3 persons 110,000/120,000/130,000K)
A boat trip through the other-worldly Tham Kong Lor is an absolute must. Situated in the 1580-sq-km wilderness of Phu Hin Bun NPA, the 7.5km river cave runs beneath an immense limestone mountain. Your imagination will be in overdrive as the boat takes you further into the bat-black darkness and the fear dial will ratchet up as if on some natural Gothic ghost ride. The experience is unforgettable.
A section of Kong Lor has now been atmospherically lit, allowing you a greater glimpse of this epic spectacle; your longtail docks in a rocky inlet to allow you to explore a stalactite wood of haunting pillars and sprouting stalagmites like an abandoned Star Trek set.
Boat trips through Tham Kong Lor take up to an hour each way, and in dry season when the river is low, you'll have to get out while the boatman and point man haul the wooden craft up rapids. At the other end of the cave, a brief five minutes upstream takes you to a refreshment stop. Catch your breath and then head back in for more adrenaline-fuelled excitement.
Life jackets are provided. Be sure to bring a torch (flashlight) as the ones for rent are inadequate, and wear rubber sandals; the gravel in the riverbed is sharp and it's often necessary to disembark and wade at several shallow points.
Tham Nam NoneCAVING
(per person 120,000K)
Tham Kong Lor is not the only major cave in the area. Tham Nam None is a 'new' cave that has been more recently discovered, but not yet fully explored. At 15km, it is one of the longest river caves in Laos, and it's possible to trek into the cave in the dry season. Don't venture into this cave alone; contact Spring River Resort to set up a trip and take plenty of torches (flashlights) and batteries.
TREKKING IN CENTRAL LAOS
Underrated central Laos is a great place to combine a cultural and environmental experience. Most treks in central Laos are run by either the state-run eco-guide units in Tha Khaek and Savannakhet or the private company Green Discovery, and range in cost from approximately US$40 to US$500 per person (prices drop significantly the greater the number of people in the group). Listed below are some particularly recommended trekking destinations in the region:
Phu Hin Bun NPA From Tha Khaek. For beauty, it's hard to beat these trekking and boating trips through the monolithic limestone karsts. Two- and three-day options are available at Tha Khaek's Tourist Information Centre, and four-day trips with Green Discovery.
Tham Lot Se Bang Fai/Hin Namno NPA From Tha Khaek. Although trekking here is still in its infancy, and mostly revolves around the Nam Lot cave, it is also possible to combine a homestay with walks in the spectacular Hin Namno NPA. Enquire at Green Discovery; the Tha Khaek Tourist Information Centre is not currently offering trips here.
Dong Natad From Savannakhet. One- and two-day trips to the provincial protected area near Savannakhet are cheap and popular for their homestays and explanations of how villagers use the sacred forest to exist. Contact Savannakhet's eco-guide unit ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-214203; Th Latsaphanith; h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri; W) for details.
Dong Phu Vieng NPA From Savannakhet. This three-day trek (with a fair bit of road time at either end) takes you to two Katang villages where animist beliefs come with a host of taboos. It's a real head-bending cultural experience, but the transport makes prices a bit steep. Organised by Savannakhet's eco-guide unit.
TTours
Khammuan Province's Tourist Information Centre offers day trips to Tham Kong Lor (per person for a group of one/two/five 1,500,000/850,000/550,000K); speak to the ever-proficient Mr Somkiad. Green Discovery also runs one-day trips to Tham Kong Lor from US$70 per person and overnight trips from US$155 per person.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kong Lor Eco LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%030-9062772; Ban Kong Lor; r 50,000K; W)
Kong Lor Eco Lodge has 12 spartan but clean rooms set back from the road. The small restaurant here is one of the most popular in town and draws a steady crowd of travellers each night.
HomestayHOMESTAY$
(Ban Kong Lor; per person incl dinner & breakfast 50,000K)
Say the word 'homestay' and you'll be hooked up with a family somewhere in the village. Homestay accommodation is also available at the opposite end of the cave, in Ban Na Tan and the prettier Ban Phon Kham, but you'll get charged a second time when you return through the cave.
Both villages are within walking distance of the drink stalls where the boats terminate; Ban Na Tan is a 2km walk along the left fork, and Ban Phon Kham is the second village you'll come to after about 1km along the right fork. The drink vendors are more than happy to point you in the right direction.
Chantha HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%020-22100002; Ban Kong Lor; dm 40,000K, r 70,000-150,000K; aW)
This Swiss-style accommodation on the main road to Kong Lor, at the start of the village, has 15 cool, well-kept rooms plus a dorm. The owners are friendly and, best of all, there are magnificent views of the cliffs. There's also a DVD lounge, a small cafe and bicycles for rent.
oSpring River ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%020-59636111; www.springriverresort.com; Ban Tiou; bungalows US$15-50, tr US$40-50; aW)
Formerly Sala Kong Lor, these stilted bungalows range from basic to superior and sit by the beautiful Nam Hin Bun. En suite triple rooms include mozzie nets and private balconies to enjoy the lush river view, and breakfast is included with the more expensive room. T
here's a clear-water creek nearby to cool off in.
Kong Lo View Hotel & ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%030-9143544; www.kongloview.com; d/tw/VIP US$35/$50/$150, all incl breakfast; naW)
Boasting the closest location to Tham Kong Lor, this attractive cluster of traditional wooden bungalows features a range of options including a vast VIP room. The restaurant features a terrace with views to the karst.
Auberges Sala HinbounGUESTHOUSE$$
(%041-212445; www.salalao.com; r incl breakfast US$23-29; W)
On the banks of the Nam Hin Bun, Auberges Sala Hinboun has 12 homely, guacamole-green wood cabanas on stilts. Rooms have gypsy-chic curtains, rattan floors, balconies and comfy beds. The ones facing the river are the largest, but the smaller ones are decent too. The restaurant has a menu of fried fish, roast chicken and Lao salad.
Mithuna RestaurantLAOTIAN$
(Ban Kong Lor; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-8pm)
Close to the entrance to Tham Kong Lor, this semi-alfresco, fan-cooled restaurant serves up noodles, fried rice and pork láhp, as well as Western breakfasts. It's good for a refuel before or after a trip into the depths of the cave.