Lonely Planet Laos
Page 56
Licensed moneychangers maintain booths around Vientiane (including at Talat Sao) and at some border crossings. Their rates are similar to the banks, but they stay open longer.
There's no real black market in Laos and unless there's an economic crash that's unlikely to change.
Tipping
Tipping is not customary in Laos except in tourist-oriented restaurants, where 10% of the bill is appreciated, but only if a service charge hasn't already been added.
Opening Hours
Bars and clubs 5pm–11.30pm (later in Vientiane)
Government offices 8am–noon and 1pm–5pm Monday to Friday
Noodle shops 7am–1pm
Restaurants 10am–10pm
Shops 9am–6pm
Post
Sending post from Laos is not all that expensive and is fairly reliable, but people still tend to wait until they get to Thailand to send parcels. Heading to Cambodia, it's probably smarter to post any parcels from Laos.
When posting any package leave it open for inspection by a postal officer. Incoming parcels might also need to be opened for inspection; there may be a small charge for this mandatory 'service'.
The main post office in Vientiane has a poste restante service.
PRACTICALITIES
NEWSPAPERS, MAGAZINES, TV & RADIO
Vientiane Times (www.vientianetimes.org.la) The country's only English-language newspaper follows the party line. Published Monday to Saturday.
Le Rénovateur (www.lerenovateur.la) A government mouthpiece in French; similar to the Vientiane Times.
Lao National Radio (LNR; www.lnr.org.la) Broadcasts sanitised English-language news twice daily.
Radio Short-wave radios can pick up BBC, VOA, Radio Australia and Radio France International.
TV Lao National TV is so limited that most people watch Thai TV and/or karaoke videos.
SMOKING
While a large number of people smoke in rural Laos, towns and cities are becoming increasingly smoke free. Almost all hotels in Laos offer nonsmoking rooms and there is a ban on smoking in cafes and restaurants in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
WEIGHTS & MEASURES
The metric system is used for measurements. Gold and silver are sometimes weighed in baht (15g).
Public Holidays
Schools and government offices are closed on the following official holidays, and the organs of state move pretty slowly, if at all, during festivals.
International New Year (1 January)
Army Day (20 January)
International Women's Day (8 March)
Lao New Year (14–16 April)
International Labour Day (1 May)
International Children's Day (1 June)
Lao National Day (2 December)
Safe Travel
Over the last couple of decades Laos has earned a reputation among visitors as a remarkably safe place to travel, with little crime reported and few of the scams often found in more touristed places such as Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. And while the vast majority of Laotians remain honest and welcoming, things aren't quite as idyllic as they once were. The main change has been in the rise of petty crimes, such as theft and low-level scams, which are more annoying than dangerous.
Queues
The Lao people follow the usual Southeast Asian method of queuing for services, which is to say they don't form a line at all but simply push en masse towards the counter or doorway. The system is 'first seen, first served'. Learn to play the game the Lao way, by pushing your money, passport, letters or whatever to the front of the crowd as best you can. That said, it is nowhere near as chaotic as in some of the bigger neighboring countries.
Road & River Travel
Better roads, better vehicles and fewer insurgents mean road travel in Laos is quite safe, if not always comfortable. However, while the scarcity of traffic in Laos means there are far fewer accidents than in neighbouring countries, accidents are still the main risk for travellers.
As motorbikes become increasingly popular among travellers, the number of accidents is rising. Even more likely is the chance of earning yourself a Lao version of the 'Thai tattoo' – that scar on the calf caused by a burn from a hot exhaust pipe.
The speedboats that careen along the Mekong in northern Laos are as dangerous as they are fast. We recommend avoiding all speedboat travel unless absolutely necessary.
Theft
While Lao people are generally trustworthy and theft is much less common than elsewhere in Southeast Asia, it has been on the rise in recent years. Most of the reports we've heard involve opportunistic acts that are fairly easily avoided.
Money or items going missing from hotel rooms is becoming more common, so don't leave cash or other tempting belongings on show. When riding a crowded bus, watch the luggage and don't keep money in loose trouser pockets. When riding a bicycle or motorcycle in Vientiane, don't place anything of value in the basket, as thieving duos on motorbikes may ride by and snatch a bag.
Motorcycle theft is a growing problem. Always lock up your bike when out in the countryside or at night, and pay for parking whenever you can.
Unexploded Ordnance (UXO)
Large areas of eastern and southern Laos are contaminated by unexploded ordnance (UXO). According to surveys by the Lao National UXO Programme (UXO Lao) and other nongovernment UXO clearance organisations, the provinces of Salavan, Savannakhet and Xieng Khuang are the most severely affected provinces, followed by Champasak, Hua Phan, Khammuan, Luang Prabang, Attapeu and Sekong.
Statistically speaking, the UXO risk for the average foreign visitor is low, but travellers should exercise caution when considering off-road wilderness travel in the aforementioned provinces. Stick only to marked paths. And never touch an object that may be UXO, no matter how old and defunct it may appear.
GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
Canadian Government (www.voyage.gc.ca)
German Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de)
Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.anzen.mofa.go.jp)
Netherlands Government (www.minbuza.nl)
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
UK Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
US Department of State (www.travel.state.gov)
Shopping
Shopping opportunities in Laos continue to improve. There are a huge number of stores selling local textiles and handicrafts, as well as regional favourites from Thailand and Vietnam. Vientiane and Luang Prabang are the main shopping centres, and in these cities, it's easiest to compare quality and price. It is, however, always nice to buy direct from the producer, and in many villages that's possible.
Antiques
Vientiane and Luang Prabang each have a sprinkling of antique shops. Anything that looks old could be up for sale in these shops, including Asian pottery (especially porcelain from the Ming dynasty of China), jewellery, clothes, carved wood, musical instruments, coins and bronze statuettes.
There is a total ban on the export of antiques and Buddha images from Laos, although the enforcement of this ban is lax.
Carvings
The Lao people produce well-crafted carvings in wood, bone and stone. Subjects include anything from Hindu or Buddhist mythology to themes from everyday life. Authentic opium pipes can be found, especially in the north, and sometimes have intricately carved bone or bamboo shafts.
To shop for carvings, look in antique or handicraft stores. Don't buy anything made from ivory, as Laos has become a major centre for the trans-shipment of illegal wildlife products.
Fabric (Textiles)
Textiles are among the most beautiful, most recognisable and easiest items to buy while travelling in Laos. Unlike many handicrafts that are ubiquitous throughout Indochina, these are unmistakably Lao.
Jewellery
Gold and silver jewellery are good buys in Laos, although you must search hard for well-made pieces. Some of the best silverwork is done by the hill tribes.
Telephone
With a local SIM card and a 3G or wi-fi connection, the cheapest option is to use internet-based messaging and call apps via a mobile device.
International calls can be made from Lao Telecom offices or the local post office in most provincial capitals and are charged on a per minute basis, with a minimum charge of three minutes. Calls to most countries cost about 2000K to 4000K per minute. Office hours typically run from about 7.30am to 9.30pm.
Mobile Phones
Roaming is possible in Laos but is generally expensive. Local SIM cards and unlocked mobile phones are readily available.
Coverage & Costs
Lao Telecom and several private companies offer mobile phone services on the GSM and 3G systems. Competition is fierce and you can buy a local SIM card for as little as 10,000K from almost anywhere. Calls are cheap and recharge cards are widely available. Network coverage varies depending on the company and the region.
Dialling Codes
The country code for calling Laos is 856. For long-distance calls within the country, dial 0 first, then the area code and number. For international calls dial 00 first, then the country code, area code and number.
All mobile phones have a 020 code at the beginning of the number. Similar to this are WIN satellite phones, which begin with 030.
Time
Laos is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC. Thus, noon in Vientiane is 10pm the previous day in San Francisco, 1am in New York, 5am in London and 3pm in Sydney. There is no daylight saving time.
Toilets
While Western-style 'thrones' are now found in most midrange and top-end accommodation, budget travellers should expect the rather-less-royal squat toilet to be the norm when staying in some guesthouses and particularly homestays.
Even in places where sit-down toilets are installed, the plumbing may not be designed to take toilet paper. In such cases there will usually be a rubbish bin for used paper.
Public toilets are uncommon outside hotel lobbies and airports. While on the road between towns and villages it's perfectly acceptable to go behind a tree or use the roadside. Lao tour guides use the euphemism 'shooting rabbits' for men and 'picking flowers' for women in case you wonder what on earth they are talking about.
Tourist Information
The Lao National Tourism Administration (LNTA) has tourist offices all over Laos, with the ones in Vientiane and Luang Prabang particularly helpful.
Many offices are well-stocked with brochures and maps, and have easily understood displays of their provincial attractions and English-speaking staff to answer your questions. Offices in Tha Khaek, Savannakhet, Pakse, Luang Namtha, Sainyabuli, Phongsali and Sam Neua are all pretty good, with staff trained to promote treks and other activities in their provinces and able to hand out brochures and first-hand knowledge. They should also be able to help with local transport options and bookings. Alternatively, you can usually get up-to-date information from a popular guesthouse.
The LNTA also runs three very good websites that offer valuable pre-departure information:
Central Laos Trekking (www.trekkingcentrallaos.com)
Ecotourism Laos (www.ecotourismlaos.com)
Laos National Tourism Administration (www.tourismlaos.org)
Travellers with Disabilities
With its lack of paved roads or footpaths (sidewalks), Laos presents many physical obstacles for people with mobility impairments. Rarely do public buildings feature ramps or other access points for wheelchairs, nor do most hotels make efforts to provide access for the physically disabled, the few exceptions being at the top end in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Most sights have no disabled access. Public transport is particularly crowded and difficult, even for the fully ambulatory.
For wheelchair users, any trip to Laos will require a good deal of advance planning. Fortunately a growing network of information sources can put you in touch with those who may have wheeled through Laos before.
Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com)
Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org)
Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (www.sath.org)
Download Lonely Planet's free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/accessibletravel.
Travel with Children
Like many places in Southeast Asia, travelling with children in Laos can be a lot of fun as long as you come prepared with the right attitude. The Lao people adore children and in many instances will shower attention on your offspring, who will readily find playmates among their Lao peers and a temporary nanny service at practically every stop.
Practicalities
Child-friendly amenities such as high chairs in restaurants, car seats, and changing facilities in public restrooms are virtually unknown in Laos. Parents have to be extra resourceful in seeking out substitutes or follow the example of Lao families, which means holding smaller children on their laps much of the time.
Baby formula and nappies (diapers) are available at minimarts in the larger towns and cities, but bring along a sufficient supply to rural areas.
For the most part parents needn't worry too much about health concerns, although it pays to lay down a few ground rules – such as regular hand-washing or using hand-cleansing gel – to head off potential medical problems. All the usual health precautions apply. Children should especially be warned not to play with animals encountered along the way, as rabies is disturbingly common in Laos.
Do not let children stray from the path in remote areas of Laos that were heavily bombed during the Second Indochina War. Bombies remain an everyday threat in some regions and children are usually the most common victims, as the bombies resemble tennis balls.
Visas
Thirty-day tourist visas are readily available on arrival at international airports and most land borders.
Citizens of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) – Japan, South Korea, Russia and Switzerland – enjoy visa-free access to Laos. Most other nationalities can obtain their visa on arrival, including EU citizens, North Americans and Australians. Citizens of some African and Middle Eastern countries must apply for a visa in advance.
Tourist Visa on Arrival
The Lao government issues 30-day tourist visas on arrival at all international airports and most international border crossings.
The whole process is very straightforward. You need between US$30 and US$42 in cash, one passport-sized photo and the name of a hotel or guesthouse. Those without a photo, or who are arriving on a weekend, holiday or after office hours, will have to pay an additional one or two dollars.
The visa fee varies depending on the passport of origin, with Canadians having to fork out the most (US$42) and most other nationalities paying between US$30 and US$35. Pay in US dollars as a flat rate of 1500B (around US$50) is applicable in Thai baht. No other foreign currencies are accepted.
Tourist Visa
For those not eligible for a visa on arrival, Lao embassies and consulates abroad offer 30-day tourist visas. The process involves roughly the same cost and documentation and generally takes three working days. In Bangkok you can get your visa on the same day for an additional 200B express fee.
Work Visa
Business visas, valid for 30 days, are relatively easy to obtain as long as you have a sponsoring agency in Laos. A business visa can be extended by up to a year.
Visa Extensions
The 30-day tourist visa can be extended an additional 90 days at a cost of US$2 per day,
but only in major cities such as Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse and Savannakhet.
Overstaying Your Visa
Overstaying a visa is not a major crime, but it is expensive. It costs US$10 for each day overstayed, paid at the immigration checkpoint on departure.
Volunteering
Volunteers have been working in Laos for years, usually on one- or two-year contracts that include a minimal monthly allowance. Volunteers are often placed with a government agency and attempt to 'build capacity'. These sort of jobs can lead to non-volunteer work within the non-government organisation (NGO) community.
The alternative approach to volunteering, where you actually pay to be placed in a 'volunteer' role for a few weeks or months, has yet to arrive in Laos in any great capacity. A couple of groups in Luang Prabang need volunteers occasionally, and there are also local projects in places as diverse as Huay Xai, Muang Khua and Sainyabuli. The website Stay Another Day (www.stayanotherday.org) is a good resource for unpaid volunteer opportunities.