Passage to Alaska

by Elsan Zimmerly

  *****

  Explorer North was a unique educational cruise ship. It was the main reason Maura chose this ship. No casinos, no glitz, no glamour. Every day of the cruise various teachers, Native artists, local authors and Alaskans provided talks, lectures, and demonstrations. Geology, wildlife, biology, Alaska’s history and Native culture. At every port they offered adventurous or educational excursions. Bicycles were aboard and available at port and sometimes guided tours on bikes. An extensive library housed just about every book written about Alaska. The ample and spectacular natural environment they cruised along with all the resources on board gave passengers a richly informed, educational journey. One few travelers to Alaska experienced.

  Maura took in many of the educational programs and encouraged Sam to participate but his interest was elsewhere. He was keen on soaking up every bit of Alaska with all his senses. He spent a good deal of time talking to crewmembers learning about their lives. One evening he told Maura, “These guys are from all over the world, mostly third-world countries. A number of them don’t speak English well but just the same they’re pretty interesting. See their families once a year if they’re lucky. I’ve watched them after the passengers offload when we’re at port. A bunch of them hustle off in a cab to buy up all sorts of electronic stuff to mail home. Pretty neat guys when you spend some time with them. A real different way of life. Most Americans don’t have a clue about what goes on in other parts of the world. But you know that. Especially undeveloped countries. We’re ignorant and spoiled.”

  In Wrangell, a Native master carver boarded the ship to give a talk the following day while the ship sailed up Steven’s Passage to Juneau. In the morning at breakfast Doc Pearson introduced him to Sam and Maura. Sam and Simon hit it off from the start. A humble, unassuming man Simon possessed an uncanny sense of humor that sparked another side of Sam he’d long ago buried. They had a good time talking about their storytelling careers. When the ship docked in Juneau, Simon took Sam and Maura to several galleries to look at various carvers’ work especially the bentwood boxes. Maura was intrigued with them and Simon carefully explained how they were made.

  From Juneau they sailed north along the Lynn Canal to Skagway, the terminus of the Inside Passage. The small town, nestled against towering mountains with ragged snowy peaks, made a breathtaking scene as the ship sailed up the Lynn Canal. History was made here in the late 1800s as thousands of desperate people flooded the area on their way to the Klondike Gold Rush.

  Sam left the ship after most passengers disembarked, walked around the small town but was quickly bored with the commercialism. He caught up with Maura in the National Park museum and asked if she’d like to walk the famous Chilkoot Trail.

  “Well, I didn’t bring my hiking boots,” she said, “or my sleeping bag. Are you planning a trek to Lake Bennett?”

  Sam chuckled, “Oh, just want to plunk my feet down on the path that thousands of gold seekers walked. What do you think?”

  Maura showed him a brochure, “Actually, I had just picked up this self-guided walking tour of Dyea and the trailhead. We could easily do that. It would be fun. I was about to walk to the ship and look for you. We’ve the whole day here and the town is pretty small. I’m not sure about hiking up the Chilkoot, though. The first part of the trail is pretty steep. I’ve already checked it out with the ranger.”

  “Okay, Dyea it is.” Sam put his hands on Maura’s shoulders and turned her towards to door. “Let’s get out of here, this town bores me.”

  A quick lunch then a cab ride to the ranger station and campground at Dyea. From here the Chilkoot Trail took off on a 30-mile rigorous trek to Lake Bennett. Originally a trade trail it became famous with the gold rush as the start of the long, arduous trek to the gold mines. Much the same as Skagway, Dyea mushroomed overnight. The town prospered for a while but faded away as Skagway became the favored route when the railroad was built. Only remnants and fragments of the town site still remain.

  They walked to the trailhead where Maura took a picture of Sam. Then she took a book from her daypack, “I found this in the bookstore. Thought you might enjoy reading it.”

  “Ah, yes, Robert Service. The voice of the gold seekers. “Thanks,” he muttered rather clumsily, “you shouldn’t do that.” He was touched by her thoughtfulness.

  They walked a little further on the trail. Sam stopped, opened the book and read Spell of the Yukon, ending with:

  There’s gold, and it's haunting and haunting;

  It's luring me on as of old;

  Yet it isn't the gold that I'm wanting

  So much as just finding the gold.

  It's the great, big, broad land 'way up yonder,

  It's the forests where silence has lease;

  It's the beauty that thrills me with wonder,

  It's the stillness that fills me with peace.

  “Imagine,” said Sam his mind wandering about, “the stories this trail could tell. People had to carry a year’s supply of food or the Canadians wouldn’t let them across the border. Smart on the Canadians part. Avoids a lot of search and rescue. For a lot of the people this was their last hope in hard times.”

  “I’ve seen that look of desperation in people’s eyes,” said Maura. “When they’ve lost everything and surviving day to day is their only thought. Survival is a mighty force. Keeps people going even in the hardest circumstances.”

  Her words pierced a place in his heart and lingered in his mind as they walked along. What happens when that instinct to survive slips away? Is giving up a loss or suppression of that instinct? He wanted to ask her but didn’t.

  It was a brilliant day. Clear skies, sunshine, cool. The fresh air invigorating. Meandering around the town site, they imagined a bustling, busy town as Maura read descriptions from the brochure. Before heading back to Skagway they paused in a meadow of lupines for pictures.

  It was barely an hour before sailing by the time they arrived back at the ship. After dinner Sam and Maura spent the evening in the small, intimate Navigator’s Lounge listening to a jazz pianist and reading a few poems from Robert Service. He caught himself looking deeply at her while she read.

  That night Sam thought about this journey. He pondered this new element in his life. Never gave a thought to befriending someone, most of all a woman. Could he change his life now? Too old for a shipboard romance. Anyway it only happens in the movies. Why get involved with someone now? His mind played a virtual tennis match and he remained unsettled as he finally drifted off to sleep.

  Next port, Sitka. Stunning scenery—cradled against the towering coastal mountains of the outer coast of Baranof Island. A wealth of history in its Tlingit culture and Russian influence. In the heyday of the sea otter fur trade Sitka was the Russian-American capital.

  Sam and Maura went into town together. There was something special about Sitka that he instantly liked and was anxious to explore the town. After climbing Castle Hill for a grand view of the island-dotted waters, walking the small harbor of fishing boats and then through the forest of totem poles they went to the Sheldon Jackson museum. Sam asked for directions to the harbor he’d seen as they approached town. Thought he would walk the docks while Maura toured the Russian Bishop’s House.

  This harbor was larger than the previous with a variety of boats—sailboats, cruising yachts, fishing boats, charter boats. All sizes, all conditions. He felt at ease here. A warm, welcoming feeling.

  On the dock Sam stopped and talked to a couple from Portland, Oregon sailing Southeast Alaska for the summer. He enjoyed listening to their stories of places they’d been. First time in Alaska, their excitement was contagious.

  Another couple, in their late seventies, had made a sojourn to Southeast Alaska every year for ten years. They were delightful. Both had been administrators and knew nothing about boats when they retired but thought it would be fun to spend summers cruising. So they learned all they c
ould by reading and taking classes. They were unassuming—yet their stories captivating. Some of their predicaments seemed a bit dangerous to Sam. Cruising was now in their blood and they couldn’t imagine doing anything else. They invited Sam aboard their boat, Noatak.

  “Not much space here,” Sam remarked. “Don’t you get tired of tight quarters?”

  “When making long passages it can be a little snug,” answered George, “but we mostly amble along and spend a lot of time outdoors. Why rush through something you’re really enjoying. Savor it. We’ve got the time. And we really don’t need much. As live-aboards there’s a limit to possessions. We like that. Even when we’re dockside for the winter in Washington we live on Noatak. If you like it, it’s a good life.”

  Cruising was the highlight of their life together and they hoped to continue as long as they stayed healthy. Sam was amazed by their attitude and zest for living fully. Envious, too. They shared a love of the water, abundant fabulous experiences and especially each other’s company.

  Along the main dock several boats advertised fresh crabs. As Sam walked back to the ramp a crab boat motored over to the dock and tied up. He watched as they set up to sell their catch. What a life, he thought. Fresh crab on your doorstep.

  Sam met up with Maura outside the Tlingit tribal community house. Both wanted to watch the Native dancing and story telling performances. Afterwards they took a cab out of town to Whale Park where in the spring and fall humpbacks are frequently seen in the inlet. A trail meanders down a steep forested hillside with viewing platforms. Though they didn’t spot any whales both enjoyed the climb. Maura remarked that Sitka was her favorite town so far. She could easily fit in.

  From Sitka, Explorer North sailed out into the Pacific making the crossing Sam was waiting for—the Gulf of Alaska to Seward. A peak experience for him. Weather had changed overnight as a storm hit the outer coast. It was a rough crossing. Roughest they'd seen in years. Sam was thrilled. While most passengers were held hostage in their cabins he and Maura had the rest of the ship to themselves. The dining room catered to the few passengers unfettered by seasickness. Even Maura, though, gave in on the second day of rough weather and stayed in bed. The motion of the ship lurching and rolling became too much for her.

  Sam relished the sea in all its fury. Crewmembers kept reminding him to leave the railing and go inside. For his own safety. Seas were turbulent. Wind relentless. Chairs were stacked and tied down on the aft deck. The top deck with the exercise equipment was off limits.

  At dusk on the first day of crossing the Gulf a door slammed shut as the ship plunged through heavy water crushing a crewmember's fingers. Two fingers were barely attached. It was a challenge for Doctor Pearson as the ship lurched about. He did the best he could under the circumstances and amazingly he was able to save Jack’s fingers. Captain Antonsen found the calmest area he could and sailed in circles until the doctor was finished. Once in Seward Jack was taken to a hospital in Anchorage.

  Maura invited Sam to go ashore with her in Seward to visit to the SeaLife Museum. She promised he’d enjoy it. “The museum,” she said, “was built on some of the Exxon money after the Valdez oil spill.” She explained that the center was involved in marine research throughout Prince William Sound. To Sam’s surprise they spent hours there and he was fascinated.

  From Seward they sailed down Resurrection Bay, rounded Cape Resurrection and into the Gulf of Alaska towards Hinchinbrook Island and the entrance to Prince William Sound. In the channel between Montague and Hinchinbrook Islands a pilot boarded the ship to take them into Valdez.

  Sam and Maura had received an invitation from Captain Antonsen to visit the bridge once they were through the entrance. Larry met them and led the way up to the bridge informing them of the protocol and what to expect.

  It was a short yet informative visit. Sam was immediately aware of the quiet that prevailed on the bridge. He was also surprised by the formality. It was all business. Every task done with precision. No casual conversation.

  Maura commented on the expansive view. Larry agreed. “It’s the best vantage point on the ship.” They could see for miles beyond.

  Larry showed them around explaining the various jobs and names of the officers who hailed from all over the world. Norway, Panama, Germany, Sweden, Italy. Maura and Sam stood out on the wing deck for a while then Larry introduced them to the navigator. She showed them charts of the area and the course the ship sailed to Valdez. She also pointed out the infamous Bligh Reef as they passed.

  Valdez proved a smaller town than Sam envisioned. He walked around the marina visiting with people working on boats and watched as freshly caught salmon were filleted on the dock. I could get into this, he thought. He considered a day of fishing but there wouldn’t be enough time before the ship sailed again.

  “Something you’ll have to do, Sam, on another trip,” said Maura at dinner. She’d taken a birding tour on a small boat and was excited about all the birdlife they observed. “My birding friends would be ecstatic,” said Maura. “Common murres, kittiwakes, terns, oystercatchers, mergansers and a few puffins. A perfect day for the birding crowd.”

  That evening after dinner as they sat talking at their usual table on the aft deck Maura asked Sam to dance. He thought she meant inside on the dance floor. “No,” he grumbled. Maura ignored his remark, got up, lifted his hand from the table and said, “Let’s dance. Right here.”

  With the faint sound of music drifting from inside the lounge they danced on the deck. “Floating on the sea with the stars lighting up the sky. Beats any dance floor, doesn't it?” asked Maura. Sam smiled warmly. In these moments he forgot himself and felt a surge of youthful energy as he swept across the deck with Maura in his arms.

  “Been forever since I’ve held a woman in my arms,” he said smiling. He whispered, “Why didn’t I meet you long ago? Why now?”

  Maura answered, “Why not now? We’re here—enjoy what we have.”

  Sam continued talking as they danced, “I was married once, a long time ago. Young and in love all right, but with my career and myself. Someone in my position needed a wife but Janet didn't like the life we were living, the parties, the booze, and the pretense. It didn't take long for her discontent to lead to a divorce. Since then I've been a solo act. Didn't get involved. Didn't want the hassles. Just wanted to fill my own selfish desires.”

  They stood still for a moment. Maura turned her head and looked him in the eye, “Has that really changed?”

  Her comment startled him. Sometimes he thought she could see right through him, read his mind. Recovering from her comment he answered, ”You’re probably right.”