Feast
Page 26
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
Sea salt
⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Put the saffron to soak in 2 tablespoons water.
2. Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water, then put in a large bowl. Pour enough water to cover the rice by about two fingers. Add 2 tablespoons salt and let soak for 2 hours.
3. Thirty minutes before the rice is done soaking, bring 2 quarts (2 liters) water to a boil in a large pot. Drain the rice and add to the boiling water along with 2 tablespoons salt. Bring back to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. The rice should be “al dente.” Drain the parboiled rice in a colander and rinse under cold water. Let drain.
4. Put the oil and half the saffron water in a large clean pot with a heavy bottom and place over medium heat. When the oil starts sizzling, sprinkle a good layer of rice all over the bottom, about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Then add the rest of the rice, building it into a pyramid so that it does not stick to the sides. Make a hole in the center and pour in the melted butter and the remaining saffron water. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel, cover the pot tightly, and leave over medium heat for about 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to very low and let the rice steam for 1 hour or so, or until the bottom becomes very crisp and golden brown—you may not succeed on the first try as it takes some practice to figure out how low a setting you need to cook the rice that long without burning it, but you will soon get the hang of it.
5. Take the pot off the heat and place the bottom on a very cold surface or in iced water to loosen the crust or tah-dig. Scoop out the saffron-colored rice from the center of the rice and transfer to a small bowl. Transfer the rest of the rice to a serving platter, taking care not to disturb the tah-dig. Scatter the saffron-colored rice all over. Then, remove the tah-dig and break it into pieces. Arrange the tah-dig all around the rice and serve hot.
COOKING RICE IN IRAN
* * *
There are three main ways of cooking rice in Iran, not counting the different garnishes. In one, called polow, rice is parboiled and then steamed over very low heat until it forms a crust on the bottom. In another, called kateh, rice is cooked with the absorption method and left long enough over low heat that it forms a crust both on the bottom and sides. And for the third, called tahchin, rice is parboiled and then mixed with yogurt and egg and baked in the oven so that it becomes like a cake with a crusty outside and the rice fluffy inside. Of course, you can add meat or a vegetable garnish to any of these three methods, although kateh is more often than not made plain.
Rice with Fava Beans
BGHLI POLOW
IRAN
Serve this polow with the kebab or khoresht of your choice.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
Good pinch of saffron threads
⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
7 ounces (200 g) fresh dill, bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
1¾ cups (350 g) shelled and peeled fresh or frozen fava beans
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Soak, parboil, and rinse the rice as directed in steps 2 and 3 of Plain Iranian Rice.
2. Put the saffron to soak in 2 tablespoons water.
3. Put the vegetable oil and half the saffron water in a large clean pot and place over medium heat. When the oil starts sizzling, spread a good layer of rice all over the bottom, about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Cover with a layer of dill and a layer of fava beans. Then spread another layer of rice over the beans and dill, keeping the rice away from the edges. Carry on alternating the layers, building the mixture in the shape of a pyramid, until all is used up, but ending with a layer of rice. Make a hole in the middle of the pyramid and pour in the melted butter and remaining saffron water. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel, cover the pot tightly, and leave over medium heat for 4 minutes. Then reduce the heat to very low and let the rice, beans, and dill steam for 1 hour or so, or until the bottom layer of rice has become very crisp and golden brown—you may not succeed on the first try as it takes some practice to figure out how low a setting you need to cook the rice that long without burning it, but you will soon get the hang of it.
4. When the rice is ready, place the bottom of the pot on a very cold surface or in iced water to loosen the crust or tah-dig (as it is known in Persian). Scoop out the saffron-colored rice from the center of the rice and transfer to a small bowl. Spoon the rest onto a serving platter, taking care not to disturb the tah-dig. Scatter the saffron-colored rice all over the rice. Then remove the tah-dig from the pan and break it into pieces. Arrange these around the rice and serve hot.
Herbed Polow
SABZI POLOW
IRAN
In Iran, people buy their sabzi ready-mixed, even ready-chopped from the market. Unfortunately, there isn’t such a thing in the West, but do not despair because you can easily make your own sabzi by mixing equal quantities of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, dill, chives or leeks, scallions, and even spinach if you want. In some regions like in Gilan, the sabzi contains local wild herbs. You can add sorrel if you want, or even wild chicory. Or you can buy dried sabzi from Iranian stores and use half the weight indicated below, in the same way. Sabzi polow is a must for the celebrations of Nowruz, the Iranian New Year, and is usually served with Iranian Herb Omelet and fried fish.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
Good pinch of saffron threads
12 ounces (350 g) sabzi (mixed fresh herbs), finely chopped
½ teaspoon powdered dried fenugreek
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Sea salt
⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Soak, parboil, and rinse the rice as directed in steps 2 and 3 of Plain Iranian Rice.
2. Put the saffron to soak in 2 tablespoons water.
3. Mix the sabzi with the dried fenugreek and garlic and season with a little salt in a small pot.
4. Put the vegetable oil and half the saffron water in a large pot and place over medium heat. When the oil starts sizzling, spread a good layer of rice over the bottom, about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Spread half the sabzi mixture over the rice and cover with half the remaining rice. Spread the remaining sabzi mixture and cover with the rest of the rice, building the mixture in the shape of a pyramid. Make a hole in the center and pour in the melted butter and the remaining saffron water. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel, cover the pot tightly, and leave over medium heat for 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to very low and let the rice and herbs steam for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the bottom becomes very crisp and golden brown. You may not succeed on the first try, as it takes some practice to figure out how low a setting you need to cook the rice that long.
5. When the rice is ready, take off the heat and immediately place the bottom of the pot on a very cold surface or in iced water to loosen the crust (tah-dig as it is known in Persian). Transfer the rice to a serving platter, taking care not to disturb the tah-dig.
Lentil Polow
ADDAS POLOW
IRAN
It was on one of my last trips to Iran that I met Feridoonjan (adding jan at the end of someone’s name forms the diminutive, like saying dear Feridoon), a splendid-looking man with a fabulous long gray mustache, which he curls over his cheeks. Feridoon is also a splendid cook and the first time I met him, at my friend Ali Farboud’s mother’s place, he had just finished cooking a lentil polow, which Ali’s mother immediately invited us to taste. It was exquisite. Feridoon did not garnish his lentil polow with dates as I am doing here, but I love the sweet-savory note the dates give to each bite, while the caramelized onions provide a nice crunch. Serve on its own or with roast lamb or chicken.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
Good pinch of saffron threads
¾ cup (150 g) brown lentils, soake
d for 1 hour in cold water
⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil, plus more for frying
⅔ cup (100 g) pitted dates, halved lengthwise
1 large onion (7 ounces/200 g), halved and cut into thin wedges
Heaping ⅓ cup (50 g) golden raisins, soaked for 1 hour in cold water
Sea salt
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Soak, parboil, and rinse the rice as directed in steps 2 and 3 of Plain Iranian Rice.
2. Put the saffron to soak in 2 tablespoons water.
3. Drain the lentils and put them in a pot. Cover well with water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let bubble gently for 10 minutes, or until the lentils are just barely tender. They continue to cook with the rice and any slight bite they may still have will soften (and you don’t want them to go mushy).
4. Heat a little vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the dates and sauté until they start glistening.
5. Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in another skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and fry until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Be careful not to let it burn or it will taste bitter. Transfer to a sieve and shake a few times to get rid of any excess oil. The onions should be crisp.
6. Put the ⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil and half the saffron water in a large clean pot and place over medium heat. When the oil starts sizzling, spread a good layer of rice over the bottom, about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Spread half the lentils and golden raisins over the rice, season with salt to taste, and cover with half the remaining rice. Spread the remaining lentils and golden raisins, season with salt to taste, and cover with the rest of the rice. The layered rice should be in the shape of a pyramid. Make a hole in the middle of the pyramid and pour in the melted butter and remaining saffron water. Gently put the dates over one side of the rice. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and place over the pot. Reduce the heat to very low and let steam for 50 minutes to 1 hour until a nice crust (or tah-dig as it is known in Persian) forms on the bottom—you may not succeed on the first try, as it takes some practice to figure out how low a setting you need to cook the rice that long without burning it, but you will soon get the hang of it.
7. When the rice is ready, place the bottom of the pan on a very cold surface or in iced water to loosen the tah-dig. Remove the dates to a small plate. Transfer the rice to a serving platter, taking care not to disturb the tah-dig. Remove the tah-dig and arrange around the rice. Scatter the dates over the rice, then the crispy onions and serve hot.
Baked Rice Cake with Lamb
TAHCHIN-O BARREH
IRAN
Tahchin is one of the ultimate party dishes, not only because the presentation is so appealing, but also because the rice stays hot under the crust, making it an ideal dish for a buffet spread. I still remember my first taste of it in Tehran at Nasrine Faghih’s home. I was there researching Iranian food, and Nasrine, an old friend from when I lived in Paris, had arranged for me to cook with one of her friends, Minou, and her cook, Mariam. I had had rice cakes before, both in Kuwait (where they are known as bardalof) and in London, cooked by the late Zaha Hadid, who was also a great friend and had perfected the crust.
In the Iranian version, the parboiled rice is mixed with yogurt and egg, then cooked meat (as here) or chicken before being put in a baking dish and baked. You can make it plain, or with greens. It is perfectly delicious, and the crust is less difficult to achieve than tah-dig because the oven temperature is easier to regulate than that of most stovetop burners. The baking dish you use will also affect the result. A good nonstick solid metal cake pan with medium-high (4-inch/10 cm) straight sides is perfect for tahchin. In Iran they have a special pot they swear by, but I have yet to get one.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Good pinch of saffron threads
8 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), halved and cut into thin wedges
9 ounces (250 g) lean lamb from the leg or shoulder, diced into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
Sea salt
⅔ cup (175 g) yogurt
2 organic eggs
1¾ cups (350 g) long-grain rice, rinsed and soaked for 2 hours in lightly salted water
1. Put the saffron threads to steep in 2 tablespoons water.
2. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil, the onion, and lamb in a sauté pan and place over low heat. Barely cover with water. Season with a little salt and let cook slowly, stirring regularly, for 1 to 1½ hours, until tender. Let cool.
3. Put the yogurt and eggs in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Add the saffron water and salt to taste and mix again. Drain the lamb and onions if there is still any liquid in the pan and add to the saffron-yogurt-egg mixture. Let marinate for 2 hours at least, preferably overnight in the refrigerator.
4. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
5. Put 6 cups (1.5 liters) water in a large pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add 1½ tablespoons salt. Drain the rice and add to the boiling water and let boil for 3 minutes. Drain well. Rinse under cold water. Drain well again and add to the yogurt and lamb, together with the remaining 6 tablespoons oil. Mix well.
6. Transfer the rice mixture to a 9-inch (17.5 cm) round nonstick baking dish with medium-high (4-inch/10 cm) sides. Level the top and cover with foil. Bake for 2 hours, or until the rice is tender and completely crusty on the bottom and sides. Let sit in the pan for 5 minutes, then invert onto a round serving platter and serve hot.
Jeweled Rice
MORASA POLOW
IRAN
There are many good books on Persian cuisine but none are as thorough, informative, and brilliant as the late Margaret Shaida’s Legendary Cuisine of Persia. Despite being English, Margaret became totally immersed in the Iranian way of life after she married into an Iranian family. The recipes in her book are incredibly accurate and completely foolproof. I befriended her at the Oxford Symposium of Food and Cookery and learned much of what I know about Persian food from her and her book, and of course from my travels to Iran. The recipe below is adapted from one in her book. Jeweled rice is thus named because of the jewel-like ingredients added to the rice, which provide a delightful combination of sweet and savory flavors and contrasting textures. It is Iran’s ultimate rice dish, served at special occasions to honor important guests or to mark significant events, both religious and secular.
A truly regal dish as its name implies, it makes a wonderful accompaniment to a plain roast chicken, or fish, or leg of lamb, elevating the meal to something special. In Iran, this rice is also served with fried chicken, although the Iranian version of fried chicken is quite different from America’s Southern version. Still there is no reason why you can’t make your Southern fried chicken more festive and exotic by serving it with this jeweled rice. Some people make the tah-dig (crust) here by mixing the rice with yogurt and saffron water, but I like to keep mine plain. You can also make a tah-dig by laying a single lavash over the bottom of the pot or very thinly sliced potatoes before layering the rice over it.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Good pinch of saffron threads
2½ cups (500 g) Iranian or basmati rice
Sea salt
3 tablespoons plus ⅓ cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) carrots, peeled and julienned
8 tablespoons raw cane sugar
Peel of 3 unwaxed organic oranges (see Note), cut into very thin julienne sticks
⅓ cup (50 g) slivered almonds, soaked for 1 hour in cold water
⅓ cup (50 g) slivered pistachios, soaked for 1 hour in cold water
¼ cup (40 g) barberries (zereshk)
⅓ cup (50 g) dried currants, soaked for 1 hour in cold water and drained
1 teaspoon Advieh
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Put the saffron to soak in ¼ cup (60 ml) water.
2. Rinse the rice under cold water and place in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover it
by two fingers. Stir in 2 tablespoons salt and let soak for 2 hours.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots and sauté for 10 minutes. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar over the carrots and add 1 tablespoon saffron water and 2 tablespoons water. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until there is no more liquid in the pan. Take off the heat. Cover with a clean kitchen towel—you do not want the carrots to continue cooking—and set aside.
4. Place the orange peel in a small pan. Cover with water and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then drain the peel. Repeat a couple more times to get rid of any bitterness. Drain.
5. Drain the almonds and pistachios.
6. Put the remaining 7 tablespoons sugar in a medium pan. Add ⅓ cup (80 ml) water and place over low heat. Stir every now and then until the sugar has dissolved but not colored. Add the orange peel and most of the drained almonds and pistachios, reserving a few for garnish, and boil for a minute or so. Drain (discard the syrup) and set aside.
7. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the barberries and sauté for a couple of minutes until they turn a bright red—be careful not to burn them. (Some barberries are very dark in which case they will not turn red but don’t worry about this. They will still be good.)
8. Bring 2 quarts (2 liters) water to a boil in a large pot. Drain the rice and add to the boiling water. Add 2 tablespoons salt. Bring back to a boil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just long enough to break the hardness of the grain. Drain the rice.
9. Wipe the pot clean and place over medium heat. Add the remaining ⅓ cup (80 ml) oil and half the remaining saffron water. As soon as the saffron water starts sizzling, spread one-third of the rice in an even layer over the bottom. Spread half the carrots over the rice. Spread half of the orange/nut mixture, barberries, drained currants, and advieh over the carrots. Cover with another one-third of the rice, trying to pile the rice in a pyramid so that it does not stick to the sides. Spread the remaining carrots, orange/nut mixture, barberries, drained currants, and advieh over the rice and cover with the rest of the rice.