Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas

by Herman Melville

  Captain Beechy says that, while at Tahiti, he saw scenes "which musthave convinced the great sceptic of the thoroughly immoral conditionof the people, and which would force him to conclude, as Turnbulldid, many years previous, that their intercourse with the Europeanshad tended to debase, rather than exalt their condition."

  About the year 1834, Daniel Wheeler, an honest-hearted Quaker,prompted by motives of the purest philanthropy, visited, in a vesselof his own, most of the missionary settlements in the South Seas. Heremained some time at Tahiti; receiving the hospitalities of themissionaries there, and, from time to time, exhorting the natives.

  After bewailing their social condition, he frankly says of theirreligious state, "Certainly, appearances are unpromising; and howeverunwilling to adopt such a conclusion, there is reason to apprehendthat Christian principle is a great rarity."

  Such, then, is the testimony of good and unbiassed men, who have beenupon the spot; but, how comes it to differ so widely from impressionsof others at home? Simply thus: instead of estimating the result ofmissionary labours by the number of heathens who have actually beenmade to understand and practise (in some measure at least) theprecepts of Christianity, this result has been unwarrantably inferredfrom the number of those who, without any understanding of thesethings, have in any way been induced to abandon idolatry and conformto certain outward observances.

  By authority of some kind or other, exerted upon the natives throughtheir chiefs, and prompted by the hope of some worldly benefit to thelatter, and not by appeals to the reason, have conversions inPolynesia been in most cases brought about.

  Even in one or two instances--so often held up as wonderful examplesof divine power--where the natives have impulsively burned theiridols, and rushed to the waters of baptism, the very suddenness ofthe change has but indicated its unsoundness. Williams, the martyr ofErromanga, relates an instance where the inhabitants of an islandprofessing Christianity voluntarily assembled, and solemnly revivedall their heathen customs.

  All the world over, facts are more eloquent than words; the followingwill show in what estimation the missionaries themselves hold thepresent state of Christianity and morals among the convertedPolynesians.

  On the island of Imeeo (attached to the Tahitian mission) is aseminary under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Simpson and wife, for theeducation of the children of the missionaries, exclusively. Senthome--in many cases, at a very early age--to finish their education,the pupils here are taught nothing but the rudiments of knowledge;nothing more than may be learned in the native schools.Notwithstanding this, the two races are kept as far as possible fromassociating; the avowed reason being to preserve the young whitesfrom moral contamination. The better to insure this end, every effortis made to prevent them from acquiring the native language.

  They went even further at the Sandwich Islands; where, a few yearsago, a playground for the children of the missionaries was inclosedwith a fence many feet high, the more effectually to exclude thewicked little Hawaiians.

  And yet, strange as it may seem, the depravity among the Polynesians,which renders precautions like these necessary, was in a measureunknown before their intercourse with the whites. The excellentCaptain Wilson, who took the first missionaries out to Tahiti,affirms that the people of that island had, in many things, "morerefined ideas of decency than ourselves." Vancouver, also, has somenoteworthy ideas on this subject, respecting the Sandwich Islanders.

  That the immorality alluded to is continually increasing is plainlyshown in the numerous, severe, and perpetually violated laws againstlicentiousness of all kinds in both groups of islands.

  It is hardly to be expected that the missionaries would send homeaccounts of this state of things. Hence, Captain Beechy, in alludingto the "Polynesian Researches" of Ellis, says that the author hasimpressed his readers with a far more elevated idea of the moralcondition of the Tahitians, and the degree of civilization to whichthey have attained, than they deserve; or, at least, than the factswhich came under his observation authorized. He then goes on to saythat, in his intercourse with the islanders, "they had no fear ofhim, and consequently acted from the impulse of their naturalfeeling; so that he was the better enabled to obtain a correctknowledge of their real disposition and habits."

  Prom my own familiar intercourse with the natives, this lastreflection still more forcibly applies to myself.

  CHAPTER XLIX.

  SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED

  WE have glanced at their moral and religious condition; let us see howit is with them socially, and in other respects.

  It has been said that the only way to civilize a people is to form inthem habits of industry. Judged by this principle, the Tahitians areless civilized now than formerly. True, their constitutionalindolence is excessive; but surely, if the spirit of Christianity isamong them, so unchristian a vice ought to be, at least, partiallyremedied. But the reverse is the fact. Instead of acquiring newoccupations, old ones have been discontinued.

  As previously remarked, the manufacture of tappa is nearly obsolete inmany parts of the island. So, too, with that of the native tools anddomestic utensils; very few of which are now fabricated, since thesuperiority of European wares has been made so evident.

  This, however, would be all very well were the natives to applythemselves to such occupations as would enable them to supply the fewarticles they need. But they are far from doing so; and the majoritybeing unable to obtain European substitutes for many things beforemade by themselves, the inevitable consequence is seen in the presentwretched and destitute mode of life among the common people. To me sorecently from a primitive valley of the Marquesas, the aspect of mostof the dwellings of the poorer Tahitians, and their general habits,seemed anything but tidy; nor could I avoid a comparison,immeasurably to the disadvantage of these partially civilizedislanders.

  In Tahiti, the people have nothing to do; and idleness, everywhere, isthe parent of vice. "There is scarcely anything," says the good oldQuaker Wheeler, "so striking, or pitiable, as their aimless,nerveless mode of spending life."

  Attempts have repeatedly been made to rouse them from theirsluggishness; but in vain. Several years ago, the cultivation ofcotton was introduced; and, with their usual love of novelty, theywent to work with great alacrity; but the interest excited quicklysubsided, and now, not a pound of the article is raised.

  About the same time, machinery for weaving was sent out from London;and a factory was started at Afrehitoo, in Imeeo. The whiz of thewheels and spindles brought in volunteers from all quarters, whodeemed it a privilege to be admitted to work: yet, in six months, nota boy could be hired; and the machinery was knocked down, and packedoff to Sydney.

  It was the same way with the cultivation of the sugar-cane, a plantindigenous to the island; peculiarly fitted to the soil and climate,and of so excellent a quality that Bligh took slips of it to the WestIndies. All the plantations went on famously for a while; the nativesswarming in the fields like ants, and making a prodigious stir. Whatfew plantations now remain are owned and worked by whites; who wouldrather pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars amonth, than hire a sober native for his "fish and tarro."

  It is well worthy remark here, that every evidence of civilizationamong the South Sea Islands directly pertains to foreigners; thoughthe fact of such evidence existing at all is usually urged as a proofof the elevated condition of the natives. Thus, at Honolulu, thecapital of the Sandwich Islands, there are fine dwelling-houses,several hotels, and barber-shops, ay, even billiard-rooms; but allthese are owned and used, be it observed, by whites. There aretailors, and blacksmiths, and carpenters also; but not one of them isa native.

  The fact is, that the mechanical and agricultural employment ofcivilized life require a kind of exertion altogether too steady andsustained to agree with an indolent people like the Polynesians.Calculated for a state of nature, in a climate providentially adaptedto it, they are unfit for any other. Nay, as a race, they cannototherwise long exist.

  The
following statement speaks for itself.

  About the year 1777, Captain Cook estimated the population of Tahitiat about two hundred thousand. By a regular census, taken some fouror five years ago, it was found to be only nine thousand. Thisamazing decrease not only shows the malignancy of the evils necessaryto produce it; but, from the fact, the inference unavoidably followsthat all the wars, child murders, and other depopulating causes,alleged to have existed in former times, were nothing in comparison tothem.

  These evils, of course, are solely of foreign origin. To say nothingof the effects of drunkenness, the occasional inroads of thesmall-pox, and other things which might be mentioned, it issufficient to allude to a virulent disease which now taints the bloodof at least two-thirds of the common people of the island; and, insome form or other, is transmitted from father to son.

  Their first horror and consternation at the earlier ravages of thisscourge were pitiable in the extreme. The very name bestowed upon itis a combination of all that is horrid and unmentionable to acivilized being.

  Distracted with their sufferings, they brought forth their sick beforethe missionaries, when they were preaching, and cried out, "Lies,lies! you tell us of salvation; and, behold, we are dying. We want noother salvation than to live in this world. Where are there any savedthrough your speech? Pomaree is dead; and we are all dying with yourcursed diseases. When will you give over?"

  At present, the virulence of the disorder, in individual cases, hassomewhat abated; but the poison is only the more widely diffused.

  "How dreadful and appalling," breaks forth old Wheeler, "theconsideration that the intercourse of distant nations should haveentailed upon these poor, untutored islanders a curse unprecedented,and unheard of, in the annals of history."

  In view of these things, who can remain blind to the fact that, so faras mere temporal felicity is concerned, the Tahitians are far worseoff now, than formerly; and although their circumstances, upon thewhole, are bettered by the presence of the missionaries, the benefitsconferred by the latter become utterly insignificant when confrontedwith the vast preponderance of evil brought about by other means.

  Their prospects are hopeless. Nor can the most devoted efforts nowexempt them from furnishing a marked illustration of a principlewhich history has always exemplified. Years ago brought to a stand,where all that is corrupt in barbarism and civilization unite, to theexclusion of the virtues of either state; like other uncivilizedbeings, brought into contact with Europeans, they must here remainstationary until utterly extinct.

  The islanders themselves are mournfully watching their doom.

  Several years since, Pomaree II. said to Tyreman and Bennet, thedeputies of the London Missionary Society, "You have come to see meat a very bad time. Your ancestors came in the time of men, whenTahiti was inhabited: you are come to behold just the remnant of mypeople."

  Of like import was the prediction of Teearmoar, the high-priest ofParee; who lived over a hundred years ago. I have frequently heard itchanted, in a low, sad tone, by aged Tahitiana:--

  "A harree ta fow, A toro ta farraro, A now ta tararta."

  "The palm-tree shall grow, The coral shall spread, But man shall cease."

  CHAPTER L.

  SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST

  WE will now return to the narrative.

  The day before the Julia sailed, Dr. Johnson paid his last call. Hewas not quite so bland as usual. All he wanted was the men's names toa paper, certifying to their having received from him sundrymedicaments therein mentioned. This voucher, endorsed by Captain Guy,secured his pay. But he would not have obtained for it the sailors'signs manual, had either the doctor or myself been present at thetime.

  Now, my long friend wasted no love upon Johnson; but, for reasons ofhis own, hated him heartily: all the same thing in one sense; foreither passion argues an object deserving thereof. And so, to behated cordially, is only a left-handed compliment; which shows howfoolish it is to be bitter against anyone.

  For my own part, I merely felt a cool, purely incidental, and passivecontempt for Johnson, as a selfish, mercenary apothecary, and hence,I often remonstrated with Long Ghost when he flew out against him,and heaped upon him all manner of scurrilous epithets. In hisprofessional brother's presence, however, he never acted thus;maintaining an amiable exterior, to help along the jokes which wereplayed.

  I am now going to tell another story in which my long friend figureswith the physician: I do not wish to bring one or the other of themtoo often upon the stage; but as the thing actually happened, I mustrelate it.

  A few days after Johnson presented his bill, as above mentioned, thedoctor expressed to me his regret that, although he (Johnson) 'hadapparently been played off for our entertainment, yet, nevertheless,he had made money out of the transaction. And I wonder, added thedoctor, if that now he cannot expect to receive any further pay, hecould be induced to call again.

  By a curious coincidence, not five minutes after making thisobservation, Doctor Long Ghost himself fell down in an unaccountablefit; and without asking anybody's leave, Captain Bob, who was by, atonce dispatched a boy, hot foot, for Johnson.

  Meanwhile, we carried him into the Calabooza; and the natives, whoassembled in numbers, suggested various modes of treatment. Onerather energetic practitioner was for holding the patient by theshoulders, while somebody tugged at his feet. This resuscitatoryoperation was called the "Potata"; but thinking our long comradesufficiently lengthy without additional stretching, we declinedpotataing him.

  Presently the physician was spied coming along the Broom Road at agreat rate, and so absorbed in the business of locomotion, that heheeded not the imprudence of being in a hurry in a tropical climate.He was in a profuse perspiration; which must have been owing to thewarmth of his feelings, notwithstanding we had supposed him a man ofno heart. But his benevolent haste upon this occasion wassubsequently accounted for: it merely arose from professionalcuriosity to behold a case most unusual in his Polynesian practice.Now, under certain circumstances, sailors, generally so frolicsome,are exceedingly particular in having everything conducted with thestrictest propriety. Accordingly, they deputed me, as his intimatefriend, to sit at Long Ghost's head, so as to be ready to officiateas "spokesman" and answer all questions propounded, the rest to keepsilent.

  "What's the matter?" exclaimed Johnson, out of breath, and burstinginto the Calabooza: "how did it happen?--speak quick!" and he lookedat Long Ghost.

  I told him how the fit came on.

  "Singular"--he observed--"very: good enough pulse;" and he let go ofit, and placed his hand upon the heart.

  "But what's all that frothing at the mouth?" he continued; "and blessme! look at the abdomen!"

  The region thus denominated exhibited the most unaccountablesymptoms. A low, rumbling sound was heard; and a sort of undulationwas discernible beneath the thin cotton frock.

  "Colic, sir?" suggested a bystander.

  "Colic be hanged!" shouted the physician; "who ever heard of anybodyin a trance of the colic?"

  During this, the patient lay upon his back, stark and straight,giving no signs of life except those above mentioned.

  "I'll bleed him!" cried Johnson at last--"run for a calabash, one ofyou!"

  "Life ho!" here sung out Navy Bob, as if he had just spied a sail.

  "What under the sun's the matter with him!" cried the physician,starting at the appearance of the mouth, which had jerked to oneside, and there remained fixed.

  "Pr'aps it's St. Witus's hornpipe," suggested Bob.

  "Hold the calabash!"--and the lancet was out in a moment.

  But before the deed could be done, the face became natural;--a sighwas heaved;--the eyelids quivered, opened, closed; and Long Ghost,twitching all over, rolled on his side, and breathed audibly. Bydegrees, he became sufficiently recovered to speak.

  After trying to get something coherent out of him, Johnson withdrew;evidently disappointed in the scientific interest of the case. Soonafter his departure
, the doctor sat up; and upon being asked whatupon earth ailed him, shook his head mysteriously. He then deploredthe hardship of being an invalid in such a place, where there was notthe slightest provision for his comfort. This awakened the compassionof our good old keeper, who offered to send him to a place where hewould be better cared for. Long Ghost acquiesced; and being at oncemounted upon the shoulders of four of Captain Bob's men, was marchedoff in state, like the Grand Lama of Thibet.

  Now, I do not pretend to account for his remarkable swoon; but hisreason for suffering himself to be thus removed from the Calaboozawas strongly suspected to be nothing more than a desire to insuremore regularity in his dinner-hour; hoping that the benevolent nativeto whom he was going would set a good table.

  The next morning, we were all envying his fortune; when, of a sudden,he bolted in upon us, looking decidedly out of humour.

  "Hang it!" he cried; "I'm worse off than ever; let me have somebreakfast!" We lowered our slender bag of ship-stores from a rafter,and handed him a biscuit. While this was being munched, he went onand told us his story.

  "After leaving here, they trotted me back into a valley, and left mein a hut, where an old woman lived by herself. This must be thenurse, thought I; and so I asked her to kill a pig, and bake it; forI felt my appetite returning. 'Ha! Hal--oee mattee--matteenuee'--(no, no; you too sick). 'The devil mattee ye,' said I--'give mesomething to eat!' But nothing could be had. Night coming on, I hadto stay. Creeping into a corner, I tried to sleep; but it was to nopurpose;--the old crone must have had the quinsy, or something else;and she kept up such a wheezing and choking that at last I sprang up,and groped after her; but she hobbled away like a goblin; and that wasthe last of her. As soon as the sun rose, I made the best of my wayback; and here I am." He never left us more, nor ever had a secondfit.