Lonely Planet Tokyo

by Lonely Planet

  Daibutsu Hiking CourseHIKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  This 3km wooded trail connects Kita-Kamakura with the Daibutsu in Hase (allow about 1½ hours) and passes several small, quiet temples and shrines, including Zeniarai-benten (銭洗弁天 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-25-16 Sasuke; h8am-4.30pm), one of Kamakura's most alluring Shinto shrines.

  The path begins at the steps just up the lane from pretty Jōchi-ji (浄智寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1402 Yamanouchi; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-4.30pm), a few minutes from Tōkei-ji. Near Zeniarai-benten a cavelike entrance leads to a clearing where visitors come to bathe their money in natural springs, with the hope of bringing financial success. From here, continue down the paved road, turning right at the first intersection, walking along a path lined with cryptomeria and ascending through a succession of torii to Sasuke-inari-jinja (佐助稲荷神社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-22-10 Sasuke; h24hr) before meeting up with the Daibutsu path once again. To hike in the opposite direction, follow the road beyond Daibutsu and the trail entrance is on the right, just before a tunnel.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  GET ZEN

  Kenchō-ji offers beginner-friendly, public zazen (seated meditation) sessions from 5pm to 6pm on Fridays and Saturdays (enter before 4.30pm). Instruction is in Japanese, but you can easily manage by watching everyone else. Check the website for the occasional session held in English.

  5Eating

  Wander KitchenINTERNATIONAL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0467-61-4751; http://wanderkitchen.net; 10-15 Onarimachi; sweets/lunch from ¥400/1000; hnoon-8pm; W)

  It's worth searching out this charmingly decorated, retro-chic wooden house with a small garden out front for its cool vibe and tasty meals, cakes and drinks. It's tucked away just off the main street about five minutes' walk south of the west exit of Kamakura Station.

  oBonzōSOBA¥¥

  (梵蔵 GOOGLE MAP ; %0467-73-7315; http://bonzokamakura.com; 3-17-33 Zaimokuza; dishes ¥300-2000, set-course menu from ¥3500; h11.30am-3pm & 6-9pm, closed Thu)

  Intimate, rustic, Michelin-star restaurant that specialises in handmade ju-wari (100% soba), including kamo seiro (cold soba in hot broth) with wild duck imported from France. The homemade sesame tofu is incredibly creamy and not to be missed. Catch bus 12, 40 or 41 to Kuhon-ji and look for the brown shopfront next to the tiny post office.

  Good MellowsCAFE¥¥

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0467-24-9655; 27-39 Sakanoshita; burgers from ¥850; h10.30am-7pm Wed-Mon)

  Americana meets Japanese kitsch opposite the beach, with neatly stacked, charcoal-grilled juicy burgers of bacon, mozzarella and avocado, plus perfect fries, washed down with a Dr Pepper or a cold California microbrew. Once a month or so they stay open till 11.30pm on Saturday with DJs playing.

  UnivibeBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0467-67-8458; www.univibe.jp; 2nd fl, 7-13 Onaricho; h11am-3pm & 6pm-late; W)

  Spacious upstairs bar kitted-out in retro vintage decor, with friendly bartenders, table football and a relaxed vibe. A five-minute walk from the Kamakura JR station.

  4Sleeping

  Tokyo is known for being expensive; however, more attractive budget and midrange options are popping up every year. Business hotels are an economic, if institutional, option. While boutique hotels haven’t really taken off, ryokan (traditional inns with Japanese-style bedding) fill the need for small, character-filled sleeping spaces. The best deals are on the east side of town, in neighbourhoods such as Ueno and Asakusa. Levels of cleanliness and service are generally high everywhere.

  Book Your Stay Online

  For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

  Business Hotels

  Functional and economical, 'business hotels' are geared to the lone traveller on business. The compact rooms usually have semidouble beds (140cm across; roomy for one, a bit of a squeeze for two) and tiny en-suite bathrooms. They're famous for being deeply unfashionable, though many chains have updated their rooms in recent years. Expect to pay from ¥10,000 to ¥15,000 (or ¥14,000 to ¥19,000 for double occupancy). Most accept credit cards.

  Boutique Hotels

  Boutique hotels have been late to catch on in Tokyo; there is only a handful. This is perhaps because the concept – intimate and with memorable decor – is too similar in the minds of some to that of a hotel with unsavoury repute: the love hotel.

  Capsule Hotels

  Capsule hotels offer rooms the size of a single bed, with just enough headroom for you to sit up. Think of it like a bunk bed with more privacy (and a reading light, TV and alarm clock). Most are men-only, though some have floors for women, too. Prices range from ¥3500 to ¥5000, which usually includes access to a large shared bath and sauna. Most only accept cash and do not permit guests with visible tattoos.

  Hostels

  In the last five years, Tokyo hostels have gone from ordinary to outstanding. Always known for being clean and well managed, they now outdo themselves to provide cultural activities and social events for guests. Most have a mixture of dorms and private rooms, and cooking and laundry facilities. Expect to pay about ¥3000 for a dorm and ¥8000 for a private room (double occupancy).

  Luxury Hotels

  In the top-end bracket, you can expect to find the amenities of deluxe hotels anywhere in the world: satellite TV, concierge service in fluent English and enough space to properly unwind. Many of Tokyo’s luxury hotels are in high-rise buildings and offer fantastic city views. They also offer direct airport access, via the Limousine Bus. Prices vary wildly, with online deals possible.

  Ryokan

  Ryokan (Japanese-style inns) offer a traditional experience, with tatami (woven-mat floor) rooms and futons (traditional quilt-like mattresses) instead of beds. Exclusive establishments can charge upwards of ¥25,000; however, there are a number of relatively inexpensive ryokan in Tokyo, starting at around ¥8000 a night (for double occupancy).

  Most ryokan have 'family rooms' that can sleep four or five – an economical choice if you're travelling as a group or with kids. Some offer rooms with private baths, but one of the pleasures of staying in a traditional inn is the communal bath. These are segregated by sex, spacious, and sometimes made of cedar or stone. Most inns provide cotton robes called yukata, which you can wear to and from the baths. Many ryokan accept cash only.

  Need to Know

  Price Ranges

  The following price ranges reflect the cost of one night’s accommodation for double occupancy.

  ¥ less than ¥8000

  ¥¥ ¥8000 to ¥25,000

  ¥¥¥ more than ¥25,000

  Taxes

  Sales tax (8%) applies to hotel rates. There is also a city-wide 'accommodation tax' of ¥100 on rooms over ¥10,000 and ¥200 for rooms over ¥15,000.

  Discounts

  Hostels, guesthouses and ryokan have fixed rates; for hotels of all classes, rates can vary tremendously, and discounts significantly below rack rates can be found online. Many hotels offer cheaper rates if you book two weeks or a month in advance. Note that prices tend to increase on weekends.

  Reservations

  Advanced booking is highly recommended as popular spots fill up. Walk-ins can fluster staff at smaller inns or ryokan (or staff might not be present). Busy periods include the first week of January, 'Golden Week' (29 April to 5 May) and August.

  Useful Websites

  Many smaller, independent inns and hostels offer slightly better rates if you book directly.

  AJalan (www.jalan.net) Popular Japanese discount accommodation site, searchable in English.

  AJapanese Inn Group (www.japaneseinngroup.com) Bookings for ryokan and other small, family-run inns.

  AJapanican (www.japanican.com) Accommodation site for foreign travellers run by JTB, Japan’s largest travel agency.

  ALonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/Japan/Tokyo/hotels) Reviews, re
commendations and bookings.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Sawanoya Ryokan

  Hoshinoya Tokyo

  Claska

  Nui

  Hanare

  Best by Budget

  ¥

  Toco Hostel in a charming old wooden house near Ueno.

  Kimi Ryokan Welcoming budget ryokan in northwest Tokyo.

  K's House Tokyo Cosy and social backpacker fave near Asakusa.

  ¥¥

  Shibuya Granbell Hotel Funky boutique hotel on the quieter side of Shibuya.

  Hotel Mystays Premier Akasaka New Akasaka hotel with excellent rates.

  Hotel S Stylish rooms down the road from Roppongi's legendary nightlife.

  ¥¥¥

  Park Hyatt Tokyo Palatial high-rise atop a Shinjuku skyscraper.

  Aman Tokyo Gorgeous new retreat with excellent views in Ōtemachi.

  Palace Hotel Tokyo Elegant rooms alongside the Imperial Palace in Marunouchi.

  Best Ryokan

  Hōmeikan Atmospheric, 100-year-old ryokan near Ueno.

  Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo Traditional inn with big tatami rooms and fantastic baths, in Asakusa.

  Ryokan Seikō Rambling, homey inn in the western suburbs.

  Best Designer Digs

  Reversible Destiny Lofts Colourful (slightly disorienting) rooms in an eccentrically designed apartment complex in west Tokyo.

  Andon Ryokan Minamalist modern ryokan with rooftop jacuzzi near Asakusa.

  BnA Hotel Kōenji hotel decorated by artists (who share in the profit).

  Best Capsule Hotels

  9 Hours Futuristic pods in Narita Airport.

  First Cabin Bigger-than-average berths in Akasaka.

  Capsule & Sauna Century Classic capsules in the thick of Shibuya.

  Best Quirky Stays

  Japonica Lodge Tents and sleeping bags inside a sporting goods store.

  Khaosan World Trippy hostel in a former love hotel.

  Book & Bed Bunks built into bookshelves.

  4Where to Stay

  Neighbourhood For Against

  Marunouchi & Nihombashi Convenient for all sights and for travel out of the city. Area is mostly businesspeople; sky-high prices and quiet on weekends.

  Ginza & Tsukiji Ginza’s shops and restaurants at your doorstep. Congested and few inexpensive options compared to other districts.

  Roppongi, Akasaka & Around A wealth of good eating and drinking options, as well as sights. Roppongi can be noisy at night; if you're not into the nightlife there's little reason to stay here.

  Ebisu, Meguro & Around Near major hubs but with fewer crowds; great bars and restaurants. No major sights in the neighbourhood, and can feel removed from the city centre.

  Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa Convenient transport links; plenty of nightlife and a buzzing streetscape in Shibuya. Youth-centric Shibuya has no real adult vibe; extremely crowded; possible sensory overload.

  Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo Superb transport links, a wealth of food and nightlife options in Shinjuku; good budget options in Ikebukuro. Very crowded around station areas; cheap options in Shinjuku are clustered around the red-light district.

  West Tokyo Slightly cheaper rates than central Tokyo; direct trains to downtown; local vibe. Far from main sights; riding the crowded Chūō line everyday can be a drag.

  Akihabara, Kagurazaka & Kōrakuen Central, reasonable prices and with good transit links. Few budget options; many areas quiet at night.

  Ueno, Yanesen & Komagome Ryokans abound; lots of greenery and museums; easy airport access. The good ryokan here tend to be isolated in residential neighbourhoods.

  Asakusa & Sumida River Atmospheric old city feel; convenient for east Tokyo sights; great budget options and backpacker vibe. Asakusa is quiet at night, and a good 20-minute subway ride from more central areas.

  Harajuku & Aoyama Sights, restaurants and shops galore. Very limited sleeping options.

  Odaiba & Tokyo Bay Proximity to family-friendly attractions. Over-priced.

  4Marunouchi & Nihombashi

  oWise Owl Hostels TokyoHOSTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5541-2960; www.wiseowlhostels.com; 3-22-9 Hatchōbori, Chūō-ku; dm/d from ¥3600/9000; naW)

  This industrial-looking hostel ticks all the right boxes, starting with a super-convenient location above the subway and a relatively short walk or taxi ride from Marunouchi and Ginza. A clever configuration of wooden-cubicle bunks makes up the dorms. There's friendly service, a third-wave coffee stand in the lobby, DJ bar in the basement and attached izakaya for food.

  Grids AkihabaraHOSTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5822-6236; www.grids-hostel.com; 2-8-16 Higashi-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; dm/s/d from ¥3300/3500/7200; naW; bShinjuku line to Iwamotochō, exit A4)

  Following what is becoming a common hostel format in Tokyo (conversions of old office buildings with a cafe-bar on the ground floor), Grids adds to the mix by throwing in four Japanese-style tatami-mat rooms (sleeping up to four; ¥20,000), as well as more private rooms with en-suite bathrooms. The dorms offer sturdy metal-frame bunks with good mattresses.

  Yaesu Terminal HotelBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

  (八重洲ターミナルホテル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3281-3771; www.yth.jp; 1-5-14 Yaesu, Chūō-ku; s/d ¥11,500/16,500; aiW; dJR lines to Tokyo, Yaesu north exit)

  This sleek little business hotel on cherry-tree-lined Sakura-dōri has contemporary lines and a minimalist look. Rooms are the usual compact business-hotel size, but they’re decently priced for this neighbourhood and each showcases intriguing contemporary artworks by radiographic artist Steven Meyers.

  oHoshinoya TokyoRYOKAN¥¥¥

  (星のや東京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %050-3786-1144; http://hoshinoyatokyo.com/en; 1-9-1 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku; r from ¥72,000; bMarunouchi line to Ōtemachi, exit A1)

  In creating its brand-new contemporary ryokan in the heart of Tokyo, Hoshinoya has barely put a foot wrong. Overcoming a location boxed in by office towers, this ryokan is all about insulating yourself from the city in a building that incorporates timeless craftsmanship and the best of traditional Japanese design and service.

  oAman TokyoDESIGN HOTEL¥¥¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5224-3333; www.aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo; 1-5-6 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda-ku; r from ¥90,750; naiWs; bMarunouchi line to Ōtemachi, exit A5)

  Overlooking the Imperial Palace from atop Ōtemachi Tower, the Aman incorporates natural materials – including dark stone walls, blonde wood and white washi (rice paper) – into its elegant, minimalist design. Enormous rooms all have baths with stunning city views – something you also get from the giant stone bath filled with onsen water in the spa. It's outstanding.

  oPalace Hotel TokyoHOTEL¥¥¥

  (パレスホテル東京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3211-5211; www.palacehoteltokyo.com; 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; r from ¥62,000; naiWs; bChiyoda line to Ōtemachi, exit C13b)

  With its prestigious address, the gorgeously renovated Palace Hotel offers the refinement and elegance that its name suggests. Sniff the botanically perfumed air as you stride its plush corridors. Request a room with a balcony – they're a bit more expensive but worth it for the chance to soak up private alfresco views of the city.

  AIRPORT ACCOMMODATIONS

  For late-night arrivals and early-morning departures, sleeping at the airport is an economical option.

  9 Hours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0476-33-5109; http://ninehours.co.jp/en/narita; Narita International Airport Terminal 2; capsule ¥4900; naW) This slick capsule hotel inside Narita Airport has roomy, space-age pods and separate sleeping and shower rooms for men and women. It's possible to stay for only a few hours, too (¥1500 for the first hour, plus ¥500 per additional hour).

  Royal Park Hotel the Haneda (ロイヤルパークホテル ザ 羽田 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6830-1111; www.rph-the.co.jp/haneda/en; Haneda Airport International Terminal; s/d from ¥15,300/19,400; naiW) Haneda Airport's transit hotel is good value if you factor in the cost of not having to take a taxi for lat
e-night arrivals. It's relatively new; rooms have modern decor and are stocked with amenities.

  4Ginza & Tsukiji

  oPrime Pod Ginza TokyoCAPSULE HOTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5550-0147; http://theprimepod.jp; 13th fl, Duplex Tower 5/13 Bldg, 5-13-19 Ginza, Chūō-ku; capsules from ¥5200; bHibiya line to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3)

  You're unlikely to find a cheaper place to sleep in chic Ginza than this capsule hotel, which is suitably contemporary in its stylings. For a bit more headroom than in your average capsule, request one of the corner pods when you book (rates are also cheaper online).

  There are separate male and female floors. The lobby is on the 13th floor next to a cafe-bar with great views of the area.

  Daiwa Roynet Hotel GinzaBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

  (ダイワロイネットホテル銀座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5159-1380; www.daiwaroynet.jp/english/ginza; 1-13-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; s/d & tw from ¥16,500/22,000; naiW; bYūrakuchō line to Ginza-itchōme, exit A10)