Lonely Planet Tokyo

by Lonely Planet

  You can take your pick from various drinks and amenities kits at the reception of this very centrally located business hotel. Rooms are well designed, with larger than usual bathrooms for this type of set-up. There's also a women-only floor.

  oMitsui Garden Hotel Ginza PremierHOTEL¥¥¥

  (三井ガーデンホテル銀座プレミア MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3543-1131; www.gardenhotels.co.jp; 8-13-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; r from ¥38,000; naiW; bGinza line to Shimbashi, exit 1)

  If you book ahead and online, rooms at this upmarket business hotel are a steal – as low as ¥17,300. It has a great location, pleasantly decorated rooms, and a high-rise lobby with killer Shiodome and Tokyo Tower views.

  4Roppongi, Akasaka & Around

  oZabutton Good HostelHOSTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6277-6499; www.zabutton.jp; 1-29-20 Higashi-Azabu, Minato-ku; dm/d & tw ¥3780/8640; naW; bŌedo line to Akabanebashi)

  This combined cafe-bar and hostel on a delightful shopping street is really good news. The dorms have nicely designed wooden-box bunks, there's one tatami (reed mat) room that's the double, a kitchen/common room and a roof deck with a partial view of Tokyo Tower. Staff are super-friendly.

  oKaisuHOSTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5797-7711; www.kaisu.jp; 6-13-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku; dm/r with shared bathroom from ¥3900/10,500; naW; bChiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 7)

  Occupying a former ryōtei (geisha house), Kaisu is a flashpacker hostel with mid-century-modern and surfer-chic stylings. Dorms offer wooden bunks with the gorgeous old building's exposed beams on show. English-speaking staff are very friendly and there's a great cafe-bar where you can mingle with locals.

  First Cabin AkasakaCAPSULE HOTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3583-1143; http://first-cabin.jp; 3-13-7 Akasaka, Minato-ku; capsule from ¥4500; naW; bChiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 2)

  This slick and modern capsule-hotel chain offers 2.5-sq-metre cabins with decent headroom and floor space filled with a comfy mattress. Upgrade to 4.4-sq-metre 1st-class cabins for more room to stand up beside the bed and a side table. There's a large communal bath to soak in, and separate floors for men and women.

  oHotel SBOUTIQUE HOTEL¥¥

  (ホテル S MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5771-2469; http://hr-roppongi.jp; 1-11-6 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; r from ¥17,000, apt per month from ¥216,000; naiW; bHibiya line to Roppongi, exit 2)

  The various styles of room at this boutique property capture the arty design spirit of Roppongi. Some of the more expensive duplex-type rooms have Japanese design elements such as tatami (in charcoal) and circular hinoki (wooden baths). The entry-level rooms are also a cut above the usual.

  Hotel Mystays Premier AkasakaBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6229 3280; www.mystays.com/mystays-p-akasaka; 2-17-54 Akasaka, Minato-ku; r from ¥7500; naW; bChiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 5a or 5b)

  This slick new business hotel is a superb deal if you manage to bag one of its relatively spacious rooms at their low occupancy rate. When busy, the room rates increase to ¥16,000, which is still not bad for this ritzy district. Pluses include a coin laundry and small gym.

  ONLY-IN-TOKYO SLEEPING ALTERNATIVES

  Add a cultural experience, and save a little money, by staying the night in one of these unique sleeping alternatives.

  Love Hotels

  At these hotels for amorous encounters – known in Japanese as rabu hoteru (or rabuho, for short) – you can stop for a short afternoon 'rest' (from ¥3000) or an overnight 'stay' (from ¥6500); you can't stay consecutive nights, though. Some love hotels have kitschy interiors (and amenities that range from costumes to video-game consoles). Pictures of the rooms are usually displayed out front. There's a cluster of love hotels on Dōgenzaka in Shibuya.

  Manga Kissa

  Manga kissa are nominally cafes for reading manga and surfing the internet. Since they started adding private cubicles for DVD-viewing, they've become places to sleep too. A 'night pack' (eight to nine hours) costs ¥1500 to ¥2000. Reliable chains include GeraGera (www.geragera.co.jp), on the cheaper end and easily identified by its green frog logo; and Gran Cyber Cafe Bagus (www.bagus-99.com/internet_cafe), which is pricier but has showers and blanket rentals. You'll find branches of both in neighbourhoods you're likely to be out late in, including Roppongi, Shibuya and Shinjuku.

  Spas & Saunas

  Many spas and saunas – Spa LaQua and Ōedo Onsen Monogatari included – have 'relaxation rooms' with mats on the floor or reclining chairs where you can stay overnight for an extra fee (about ¥1500 to ¥2000).

  4Ebisu, Meguro & Around

  Dormy Inn Express Meguro AobadaiBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

  (ドーミーインエクスプレス目黒青葉台 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6894-5489; www.hotespa.net/hotels/meguro; 3-21-8 Aobadai, Meguro-ku; s/d from ¥14,000/20,000; naiW; bHibiya line to Naka-Meguro)

  If you prefer to base yourself somewhere less hectic – but no less fun – try this business hotel along the canal in hip Naka-Meguro. This chain sets itself apart with its large communal bath (the rooms have showers, too), evening ramen service and free bicycles. Rooms are fresh and modern thanks to being spruced up in 2015.

  oClaskaBOUTIQUE HOTEL¥¥¥

  (クラスカ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3719-8121; www.claska.com/en/hotel; 1-3-18 Chūō-chō, Meguro-ku; s/d from ¥15,400/28,500; naW; gNo 1, 2, or 7 from Meguro Station to Shimizu, dTōkyū Tōyoko line to Gakugei Daigaku, east exit)

  The Claska is hands-down Tokyo’s most stylish hotel, though you might not know it from the retro business-hotel facade. No two rooms are alike: some have tatami and floor cushions; others have spacious terraces and glass-walled bathrooms. Its 20 rooms fill up fast. The only drawback is the out-of-the-way location, about 2km west of Meguro Station.

  4Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa

  Capsule & Sauna CenturyCAPSULE HOTEL¥

  (カプセル＆サウナセンチュリー MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3464-1777; www.century-grp.com; 1-19-14 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; capsules from ¥4500; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)

  This men-only capsule hotel perched atop Dōgenzaka hill includes large shared bathrooms, massage chairs and coin laundry machines; the 'deluxe' capsules (¥5000) are slightly bigger. It’s a clean, well-run place, and major credit cards are accepted. It's also pretty popular, so it's a good idea to reserve a spot before you head out for the night. Sorry: no visible tattoos.

  oShibuya Granbell HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL¥¥

  (渋谷グランベルホテル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5457-2681; www.granbellhotel.jp; 15-17 Sakuragaoka-chō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥14,000/23,000; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, south exit)

  Though priced about the same as a business hotel, the Granbell is far more stylish. Some rooms have glass-enclosed bathrooms, Simmons beds and pop-art curtains. The hotel is on the quieter side of Shibuya, towards Daikanyama; still, it's just a few minutes' walk from the station.

  Hotel Mets ShibuyaBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥¥

  (ホテルメッツ渋谷 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3409-0011; www.hotelmets.jp/shibuya; 3-29-17 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d incl breakfast from ¥15,500/25,000; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Shibuya, new south exit)

  Super-convenient and comfortable, the Hotel Mets is part of Shibuya Station’s quiet south side. For a business hotel it's fairly stylish and the double beds clock in at a roomy 160cm. Bonus: breakfast is included, either a buffet spread or toast and eggs at the in-house cafe. Reception is on the 4th floor.

  4Harajuku & Aoyama

  Dormy Inn Premium Shibuya JingūmaeBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

  (ドーミーインプレミアム渋谷神宮前 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5774-5489; www.hotespa.net/hotels/shibuya; 6-24-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥11,490/15,990; naW; dJR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit)

  Dormy is a popular chain of business hotels, thanks to its free nightly ramen service (9.30pm to 11pm) and traditional communal baths (rooms have private showers, too). Other perks include bicycle rentals and a free morning shuttle
service to Shibuya Station. Rooms are typically small with double beds (140cm).

  4West Tokyo

  oReversible Destiny LoftsAPARTMENT¥¥

  (天命反転住宅; Tenmei Hanten Jūtaku GOOGLE MAP ; %0422-26-4966; www.rdloftsmitaka.com/english; 2-2-8 Ōsawa, Mitaka-shi; s/d/q from ¥17,300/20,300/29,300; naWc; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Mitaka, south exit)

  This is a rare opportunity to sleep within one of Tokyo's most eccentric architectural landmarks. The two apartments – one has one bedroom, the other has two (sleeping up to two or four, respectively) – were designed for maximum wonderment, with contrasting colours and textures and oddly shaped rooms. Both have washing machines, kitchens and hammocks. You need to book a minimum of four nights.

  The drawback is that the units are rather out of the way. From JR Mitaka Station, take bus 51 or 52 (¥220, 15 minutes, every 10 to 15 minutes) from bus stop 2 on the station's south side and get off at Ōsawa Jūjiro (大沢十字路); you can see the building from the bus stop. Not all buses go this far, so show the driver where you want to go. Bus 1 (¥220, 25 minutes, every 10 to 15 minutes) goes here from Kichijōji Station (south exit, bus stop 3), alongside Inokashira-kōen.

  oRyokan SeikōRYOKAN¥¥

  (旅館西郊 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3391-0606; www.ryokan.or.jp/english/yado/main/28600; 3-38-9 Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; s/d from ¥6000/12,000; aW; dJR Sōbu-Chūō line to Ogikubo)

  Maximise your Japan experience by shacking up at this rambling traditional lodge in an 80-year-old building. Rooms have tatami floors, sliding paper doors and futons; bathrooms are shared. The halls are of highly polished wood; the lobby looks like a slightly cluttered living room. The downside: curfew is 11pm (midnight at the absolute latest).

  BnA HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL¥¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bna-hotel.com; 2-4-7 Kōenji-kita, Suginami-ku; tw from ¥20,000; naW; dJR Sōbu line to Kōenji, north exit)

  There's a lot to love about new Kōenji hotel BnA: it's in a fun neighbourhood, just a minute's walk from the train station, the rooms were decorated by two Tokyo artists and the lobby doubles as a bar and event space. There's just not a lot of space: so far just two small rooms, though there are plans to expand.

  4Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

  Book and BedHOSTEL¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6914-2914; http://bookandbedtokyo.com; 7th fl, 1-17-7 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; dm from ¥3780; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro)

  Tokyo's newest headline-generating hostel invites guests to curl up in cubbyholes tucked inside a bookshelf. 'Compact' bunks have 80cm-wide beds; standard ones (¥4860) have 120cm-wide beds and lockers. Naturally, all come with reading lights. Of the 2000 or so books on display, about 200 are in English, including many travel guides.

  Note that the 'bookshelf' room is also the common area (though bunks have curtains); the 'bunk' room has more privacy. The hostel is above the Kirin City pub. Staff speak English.

  Kimi RyokanRYOKAN¥

  (貴美旅館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3971-3766; www.kimi-ryokan.jp; 2-36-8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from ¥4860/6590; naiWc; dJR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit)

  Easily one of the best budget ryokan in Tokyo, Kimi has been welcoming overseas guests for decades. There are tatami rooms of various sizes and a Japanese-style lounge area that's conducive to meeting other travellers. Clean showers and toilets are shared, and there’s a lovely Japanese cypress bath. Book well in advance.

  Tōkyū Stay ShinjukuHOTEL¥¥

  (東急ステイ新宿 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3353-0109; 3-7-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d ¥15,600/30,000; naiW; bMarunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C3)

  This new property is nestled among the izakaya and bars of Shinjuku-sanchōme. Rooms are stark to the point of having zero personality, but everything is crisp and clean. All rooms have washing machines; doubles have kitchenettes and 160cm-wide beds. Smaller, cheaper 'semi-double' rooms have 140cm beds (and no kitchen; ¥22,000). Prices drop slightly if you stay a week.

  Kadoya HotelHOTEL¥¥

  (かどやホテル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3346-2561; www.kadoya-hotel.co.jp; 1-23-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥9980/15,800; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit)

  Kadoya has been welcoming foreign tourists for decades and is above all friendly and accommodating. The standard rooms show their age, but are clean, comfortable and a steal for Nishi-Shinjuku. The more recently updated ‘comfort’ rooms (single/double from ¥12,200/17,800) have more space, Japanese-style bath-tubs and more stylish decor. There’s also a coin laundry.

  Hotel Gracery ShinjukuHOTEL¥¥

  (ホテルグレイスリー新宿 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6833-2489; http://shinjuku.gracery.com/; 1-19-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥16,000/22,000; naiW; dJR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit)

  The big draw of this huge (970 rooms!) new hotel in the new Todo Building complex is the enormous Godzilla statue that seems to be taking a bite out of it (you'll have no trouble finding it). Everything here is fresh and modern, though the lobby can be noisy and chaotic. Also, it's smack in the middle of Kabukichō, the red-light district.

  oPark Hyatt TokyoLUXURY HOTEL¥¥¥

  (パークハイアット東京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5322-1234; http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com; 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; d from ¥60,000; naiWsc; bŌedo line to Tochōmae, exit A4)

  This eyrie atop a Tange Kenzō–designed skyscraper in west Shinjuku looks no less tasteful and elegant than when it opened 20 years ago, and it remains a popular spot for visiting celebrities. The hotel starts on the 41st floor, meaning even the entry-level rooms have fantastic views; 'Park Deluxe' rooms look out towards Mt Fuji. Perks include morning yoga classes.

  4Akihabara, Kagurazaka & Kōrakuen

  Tokyo Central Youth HostelHOSTEL¥

  (東京セントラルユースホステル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3235-1107; www.jyh.gr.jp/tcyh; 18th fl, 1-1 Kagurakashi, Shinjuku-ku; dm ¥4050, with YHA discount ¥3450; naiWc; dJR Sōbu line to Iidabashi, west exit)

  Sitting right on top of well-connected Iidabashi Station, this clean, well-managed hostel has fantastic transport access. It also has luxury-hotel-worthy night views. The drawbacks: a utilitarian atmosphere and an 11pm curfew. Sleeping is on basic wooden bunks in gender-segregated four-bed dorms. There's a breakfast buffet (¥600) and laundry machines.

  There's little signage out front, but it's in the big office building in front of Iidabashi Station; take the elevator to the 18th floor.

  oHotel Niwa TokyoHOTEL¥¥

  (庭のホテル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3293-0028; www.hotelniwatokyo.com; 1-1-6 Misaki-chō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥14,600/17,400; aiW; dJR Sōbu line to Suidōbashi, east exit)

  A traditional Japanese design with a contemporary spin in the public areas and the reasonably spacious rooms of the Niwa put it well ahead of the usual bland midrangers. We like the rock garden and bamboo grove out front and the shōji (traditional paper screens) across the windows in the rooms.

  oHilltop HotelHISTORIC HOTEL¥¥¥

  (山の上ホテル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3293-2311; www.yamanoue-hotel.co.jp; 1-1 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥20,100/28,320; aiW; dJR Chūō or Sōbu lines to Ochanomizu, Ochanomizu exit)

  This art-deco gem from the 1930s exudes personality and charm, with antique wooden furniture and a wood-panelled lounge. Mishima Yukio wrote his last few novels here. The older rooms in the main building come with antique writing desks and leather chairs.

  APARTMENT RENTALS

  Short-term rental and apartment-share sites currently operate in a grey zone in Tokyo. According to law, a unit may be rented for a minimum of 30 days. Ota-ku (where Haneda Airport is located) is an exception; here the minimum stay is seven nights. This may change, as the government plans to review legislation pertaining to vacation rentals (called minpaku).

  4Ueno, Yanesen & Komagome

  oTocoHOSTEL¥

  (トコ GOOGLE MAP ; %03-6458-1686; http://backpackersjapan.co.jp; 2-13-21 Shitaya, Taitō-ku; dm/r fro
m ¥2800/6800; naiW; bHibiya line to Iriya, exit 4)

  A group of friends renovated this old wooden building (which dates to 1920 and was once frequented by geisha) and turned it into one of Tokyo's most attractive hostels. Private tatami rooms and dorms with wooden bunks surround a small garden. The hostel is hidden behind a trendy bar-lounge (open 7pm to 11.30pm) in a modern building at the front.

  oHanareGUESTHOUSE¥¥

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5834-7301; http://hanare.hagiso.jp; 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; r incl breakfast from ¥12,960; bChiyoda line to Sendagi, exit 2)

  A project of Tokyo University of the Arts, Hanare offers five immaculate tatami rooms in an old dormitory house, which has been tastefully upgraded to retain original features such as wooden beams. There is a shared bathroom, but you'll be given tickets to the local sentō (public bath), as the concept is to use Yanaka as an extension of the guesthouse.

  Reception is based in the nearby cafe-gallery Hagiso, where you'll be served a traditional breakfast.

  oHōmeikanRYOKAN¥¥

  (鳳明館 GOOGLE MAP ; %03-3811-1181; www.homeikan.com; 5-10-5 Hongō, Bunkyō-ku; s/d from ¥8100/14,040; aWc; bŌedo line to Kasuga, exit A6)