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A Pilgrimage to Eternity

Page 37

by Timothy Egan

Brienne-le-Château, France, xvi, 116–17, 120, 130

  Brigid of Kildare, Saint, 91, 94

  Bruno, Giordano, 320–21

  Buonconvento, Italy, 196, 285–86

  Burghers of Calais, The (Rodin), 37–38

  Burke, Greg, 99

  Buttet, Nicolas, 191

  Byzantium, 102

  Calais, France, xiv, xvi, 35–41

  and Hundred Years War, 37–38

  Notre-Dame church in, 39

  refugees and asylum seekers in, 36–41

  and Rodin’s The Burghers of Calais, 37–38

  Calvin, John, 175, 177–82, 183, 234

  Camino de Santiago, 4, 98, 304

  Campagnano di Roma, Italy, 196, 308–10

  Campbell, Joseph, 223

  Campo de’ Fiori, Rome, 320

  Canterbury, England, xiv, xvi

  Anselmo as archbishop in, 229–30

  author’s commencement of pilgrimage from, 3–4, 9

  cathedral, 9, 10–11, 12, 13–14

  and Chaucer, 11, 14, 15

  and martyrdom of Saint Thomas Becket, 10–11, 12, 17, 18

  ruins of original monastery in, 16–17

  Saint Martin’s church, 19–22

  Canterbury Tales, The (Chaucer), 11, 14

  “Canticle of Brother Sun” (Saint Francis of Assisi), 268

  Capranica, Italy, 306

  car rental, 245–46, 251, 253, 271, 285, 286

  Carlyle, Thomas, 170

  Carrara, Italy, 196, 260, 261

  Cascade Mountains, 203, 218

  Castel Sant’Angelo, Rome, 68, 321–22

  Cathedral of Saint John, Besançon, 151–52

  Cathedral of Saint Mammes, Langres, 145–46

  Cathedral of Saint-Pierre, Geneva, 177–78, 179, 180

  Cathedral of San Donnino, Fidenza, 251

  Cathedral of San Martino, Lucca, 262, 264

  Cathedral of Santa Margherita, Montefiascone, 292–93, 294, 297

  Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, 281

  Catherine, Empress of Russia, 140

  Catherine of Siena, Saint, 278–79

  Catholic Church

  in Africa, 190

  and apologies, 127, 321

  and author’s background, 7, 105–6, 127

  and author’s mother, 63, 118–19, 141

  and birth control, 94

  book scribes of, 42–43, 44, 168–69

  confessional practice in, 78–79, 105

  corruption in, 167–68, 169, 281

  and Crusades, 38, 99, 121–23, 127, 267, 268–69

  declining number of priests in, 267

  declining power of, in Europe and U.S., 272

  and Diderot’s Encyclopédie, 140

  doctrines of, 32–33, 127–28

  executions of heretics, 320

  first major church of, 316

  in France, 61–62

  and French Revolution, 142

  future of, 326

  and Galileo, 144, 263, 321

  historical atrocities of, 33, 127. See also violence

  and homosexuality, 32, 215, 217

  and Hugo, 149

  and Index of Prohibited Books, 140

  indulgences of, 162–63, 167, 168, 301

  and Inquisition, 33, 105, 127, 281, 320, 323

  and Joan of Arc, 93

  and labyrinths, 255–56, 258, 259–60, 264–65

  and Luther’s 95 theses, 163, 167, 168, 169

  and Mary Magdalene, 87

  and Mussolini, 316–17

  and Napoleon, 119

  and nuns, 52, 91, 94, 97–98

  popes. See Vatican; specific popes, including Francis, Pope

  and Protestant massacres, 122, 124–25, 127–28

  and Protestant Reformation, 164, 166, 172, 173, 179

  and refugees/asylum seekers, 40–41

  and reigns of Mary I and Elizabeth I, 17

  and relics trade, 167–68

  Saint Jerome’s impact on, 88–89

  and Saint Thomas Becket’s martyrdom, 10–11, 12, 17, 18

  and science, 143–44, 320–21

  sexual abuse. See sexual abuse scandals of the church

  and sexuality, 87

  and St. Peter’s Basilica, 68, 163, 168

  and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 256–57

  Vatican II, 257

  weight of dark history of, 321

  and Wilde, 216–17

  women’s role/status in, 94, 118–19, 292, 301

  See also specific abbeys, churches, and orders

  Chagall, Marc, 107

  Châlons-en-Champagne, France, xvi, 113, 115–16

  champagne, 109–10, 111–12, 145, 310

  Champagne region, xvi, 97, 111, 113

  Chapel of Our Lady of the Rock, 191–92

  Chapelle des Buis, France, 152

  charity, 153, 275

  Charlemagne, 88, 103, 251, 318, 327

  Charles V, King of France, 67–68

  Charles VI, King of France, 104

  Charles VII, King of France, 82, 92–93

  Charles IX, King of France, 125

  Châteauvillain, France, 130

  Chaucer, Geoffrey, 11, 14, 15

  Chemin Napoléon, 193

  Chernobyl, 313

  Chianti region, 283

  Christianity

  adoption in British Isles, 15–16

  in Africa, 6, 190

  and ancient civilizations, 308

  austerity of early Christians, 55

  in China, 6

  Constantine’s adoption of, 77, 102

  convert-or-die approach of, 103–4

  and creation of European civilization, 44–45

  and destruction of Greek artifacts, 101

  and Easter, 319

  evangelism of early Christians, 114

  Gnostic Gospels of, 85–87

  Gospels of, 75–76, 84–85

  and humanism of Erasmus, 124

  and Jesus’ message of charity, 275

  Luther’s democratization of, 167

  message of, 16, 44, 319

  miraculous origins of, 75. See also miracles

  New Testament scriptures, 75–77

  and Pantheon, Rome, 225–26

  and refugees/asylum seekers, 38

  and Rome’s fall, 100, 103

  Saint Paul’s impact on viability of, 76–77

  and sex. See sexuality

  and violence. See violence

  women’s role in perpetuating, 21, 91

  women’s status in, 91, 94, 114

  See also Catholic Church

  Christina, Saint, 287

  church and state, relationship of

  and Crusades, 122

  in England, 16–17

  in France, 142–43

  in Geneva, 178

  and Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17

  and Napoleon, 119

  Church of England, 5, 6, 7

  Churchill, Winston, 110, 261

  Civil War, U.S., 125

  Clare of Assisi, Saint, 269–70

  Clement VIII, Pope, 320

  climate change, 144, 153

  Clotilde, 101

  Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105, 188

  Colbert, Stephen, 7

  Collegiata, cathedral of San Gimignano, 274–75, 277

  Confederate States of America, 125

  Confessions of St. Augustine, The, 25

  Constantine I, Emperor of Rome, 77, 88, 101, 327

  Constitution, U.S., 137, 143

  consumption habits, modern, 153

  co
ntraception, and Catholic Church, 94

  Copernicus, Nicolaus, 320

  Corbény, France, xvi, 82

  Cordonnier, Rémy, 43, 46–48

  corpses, incorruptible. See incorruptibles

  Council of Nicaea, 88

  Council of Trent, 94

  criticism of pilgrimages, 25

  Crown of Thorns, 317–18

  Crusades, 122–23

  Belloc’s apologism for, 99

  and Pope Innocent III, 268–69

  Pope John Paul II’s apology for, 127

  and Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, 38

  and Saint Francis of Assisi, 267, 269

  Cruz, Joan Carroll, 78

  Cult of Reason, 142

  damnation, 274–75, 276

  Dante Alighieri, 215

  Dark Ages, 45, 103

  David (Michelangelo), 260, 283–84

  Dawkins, Richard, 150, 200

  Declaration of the Rights of Man, 141

  deep walking, 25

  Deism and Deists, 137, 149

  Denmark, 170

  Descent from the Cross (Rubens), 48

  Dickens, Charles, 207

  Diderot, Denis

  on death, 145, 325

  Encyclopédie, 139–40, 143

  intellect of, 135, 137, 139–40

  and Langres, 136–37

  Philosophical Thoughts, 137

  rejection of God and religion, 131, 137–38, 144

  and Rousseau, 135

  and Saint Mammes legend, 146

  digital devices, 54

  Discourse on the Existence of God (Anselmo), 228–29

  Divine Right of Kings, 101, 104

  Dominican friars, 168, 280, 283

  Donnino, Saint, 251, 252

  doubts

  of author’s mother, 7–8

  engaged by the Reverend Willis, 174

  Father John of Flavigny’s struggles with, 212

  and miracles, 74

  dovecotes, 130–31

  Dover, England, xvi, 28–29

  Dover Castle, 29, 30–31

  droit du seigneur, 105

  Druon, Maurice, 101

  dualism, 234

  Durant, Will, 102

  Easter, message of, 319

  Eataly, 248–49

  Edict of Milan (313), 77, 101

  Edict of Nantes (1598), 125

  Edward III, King of England, 37–38

  Edward VII, King of Great Britain, 70

  Egan, Casey, 165–66, 176–77, 184, 191, 192

  accompanying author, 96, 148, 164, 184

  and childhood in Italy, 275–76

  Egan, Joan Patricia

  annual spiritual retreat of, 63

  and Catholic Church, 63, 118–19, 141

  charity work of, 276

  deathbed of, 7–8, 276

  family life of, 62–63, 140–41

  marriage of, 288–90

  miscarriage and hysterectomy of, 117–19

  and sexual abuse scandals, 160

  Egan, Sophie

  accompanying author, 217–19, 221–24, 231, 233, 236–40, 242, 251, 261–64

  and childhood in Italy, 275–76

  food pilgrimage of, 249, 256

  and Saint Augustine, 235

  Einstein, Albert, 229

  Eisenhower, Dwight, 105

  Elizabeth I, Queen of England, 17

  Elizabeth II, Queen of Great Britain, 5, 216

  Encyclopédie (Diderot), 139–40, 143

  England, 15, 17, 24, 29–31. See also Canterbury, England

  England, Jeremy, 177

  Enlightenment era, 145

  Épernay, France, xvi, 112

  Erasmus, 123–24, 145, 167

  Erkembode (the Saint Who Walks), 48–49, 75, 114

  Ethelbert, King of Kent, 16

  Ethelred the Unready, King, 40

  Etruria, 303

  Etruscans, 258, 261, 307–8, 325

  Europe

  creation of civilization in, 44–45

  Hugo’s hopes for a united, 149–50

  monarchs descended from Queen Victoria in, 69–70

  plagues in, 29, 274, 278

  religious belief in, 5–6

  secularism in, 68, 182

  Treaty of London (1518), 65–66, 67

  wars between Christians, 65–66, 67–68

  European Union, 105, 150

  Evangelical Lutheran Church of Geneva, 172–73

  extremism and extremists, 142

  Farinetti, Oscar, 248–49

  Ferdinand II, Holy Roman Emperor, 125–26

  Fidenza, Italy, 196, 251, 252

  field-of-battle converts, 77

  Filippini, Saint Lucia

  author’s encounter with, 293, 318, 328

  and author’s hopes for sister-in-law, 324

  Joni’s perspectives on, 293–94, 297–98

  life of, 292

  statue of, at St. Peter’s Basilica, 327

  uncorrupted state of, 287–88, 292–93

  wink of, 293, 296, 327

  Fina, Saint, 277, 284

  financial gain, modern emphasis on, 259–60

  Flanders, 48, 114

  Florence, 280–82, 284

  Flynn, Rita, 157

  forgiveness, power of, 250, 327

  Formello, Italy, 310

  Fouché, Joseph, 142–43, 145

  France, xiv, 132

  and Age of Reason, 141–42

  Catholic Church in, 61–62

  and Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105, 188

  “dechristianization” in, 142, 145

  disdain for tourists in, 96–97

  and Edict of Nantes (1598), 125

  food of, 138

  and French identity, 39

  Holy Ampulla of, 98, 100–101, 104, 105, 107

  and Joan of Arc, 82–83, 92–94, 95

  laicité in, 143

  Muslims in, 143

  plagues in, 29

  Protestants in, 124

  refugees/asylum seekers in, 36, 38, 39, 40–41

  religious belief in, 47

  Revolution in, 130–31, 138, 140, 142, 145

  Wars of Religion, 122, 125, 127

  Wilde’s experience in, 36–37

  and World War I, 70

  Francis, Pope

  author’s desire to meet, 26–28, 31, 69, 99, 114, 194, 249, 278

  author’s time with, 325–27

  and Bruno, 320–21

  on charity, 275

  and church doctrines, 32–33

  and Clovis, 100–101

  on the creation, 231

  and critics in the Vatican, 272

  disabled child’s audience with, 185

  on forgiveness, 327

  fragile health of, 33

  and Frederick II, 257–58

  on great truths and great faith, 166

  and homosexuality, 32, 217

  on living encounters with the Lord, 115

  on migrants, 249

  and miracles, 77

  and nonbelievers, 26, 144, 275

  on not fearing the truth, 320

  on pilgrimages, 249

  on the poor, 275

  popularity of, 32

  and Protestant Reformation, 173

  on renewing wonder, 55

  and Saint Francis of Assisi, 32, 271

  on science, 143–44, 263, 321

  on secret to happiness, 34

  and sexual abuse scandals, 32, 160, 194, 249–50, 327

  and sexuality, 94–95

  therapy sought by, 209
/>   and values in Europe, 150

  Francis of Assisi, Saint

  call to ministry, 267–68

  “Canticle of Brother Sun,” 268

  and Crusades, 267, 269

  death of, 270

  enduring popularity of, 152, 272

  and Franciscan friars, 270–71

  humility of, 266, 273

  and La Verna, 270

  philosophy of, 268, 271

  and Pope Francis, 32, 271

  and Pope Innocent III, 268–69

  poverty embraced by, 268, 270

  relics of, 267, 271

  and Saint Clare of Assisi, 269–70

  and Savonarola, 283

  statue in Rome, 317

  stigmata, 270, 271, 272

  as war veteran, 267, 269

  Franciscan Fraternity of Besançon, 152–53

  Franciscan priests, 210–11, 266–67, 270–71

  Franklin, Benjamin, 137, 140

  Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, 257–58

  Frediano, San (Saint Fridianus), 261–62

  frescoes in San Marco convent, Florence, 280, 283

  Friars Minor, 270

  Fugger, Johann, 294–95

  fundamentalism, dangers of, 283

  Galileo Galilei, 144, 263, 321

  Gates, Henry Louis, Jr., 189

  Gaul, early monastery in, 56

  Gaunilo (monk), 230

  Geneva, xiv, 132, 164, 176

  Calvinism in, 177–81, 182, 183

  as City of Refuge, 162, 175, 179

  Old Town of, 162

  and Reformation, 166, 177–78

  and Servetus, 175, 183

  Germany

  European nations’ resentment of, 150

  pilgrims from, 290–91, 293–94, 298–99, 303, 312

  Saint Maurice’s statue in, 190

  Thirty Years War, 125–26

  and World War I, 67

  Ghirlandaio, Domenico, 277

  Gibbon, Edward, 102, 103

  global warming, 144, 153

  Gnostic Gospels, 85–87

  God

  arguments for existence of, 228–31

  and brutality of war, 71

  human understanding of, 131

  joy as sign of presence of, 177

  and message of Easter, 173, 319

  Pope Francis on heart of, 275

  and question of evil, 234–35, 239–40

  and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 257

  Goddess of Abundance, 299

  Goldin, Ian, 29

  Gonzaga, Saint Aloysius, 205, 206

  Grand Hôtel des Templiers, Reims, 99

  grapes and vineyards, 236–37, 283. See also wine

  Grat, Saint, 221–23

  Great Britain

  and Brexit, 150

  declining religious belief in, 5–6

  and homosexuality, 215

  nationalism in, 150

  psychological crisis in, 29

  and Vetralla, 305

  Great Saint Bernard Hospice, 207–13, 214, 327

 

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