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A Pilgrimage to Eternity

Page 38

by Timothy Egan


  Great Saint Bernard Pass, 186, 192–93, 196, 201, 202–4, 205–6

  Greece, 101, 150, 308

  Greenblatt, Stephen, 90

  Gregory I, Pope, 15, 90–91

  Gregory VII, Pope, 94

  Guinigi Tower, Lucca, 264

  Gutenberg, Johann, 168–69

  Gutenberg Bibles, 46, 168–69

  Hadrian, Emperor of Rome, 321–23

  Hamel, Jacques, 62

  Harari, Yuval Noah, 223

  Hautvillers, France, 112, 114

  Hawking, Stephen, 229, 231, 321

  hazelnuts, 303, 306

  Helena, Saint, 109, 318

  Henry II, King of England, 10, 11, 17, 24, 171

  Henry VIII, King of England, 17, 18, 45, 182, 305

  History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, The (Gibbon), 102

  Hitchens, Christopher

  on faith’s inferiority to reason, 144, 320–21

  on miracles, 48, 75

  on pilgrimages, 25

  on sexuality, 90

  Hitler, Adolf, 317

  Holocaust, 21, 171

  Holy Ampulla, 98, 100–101, 104, 105, 107

  Holy Prepuce, 318–19

  Homo sapiens, 223, 229

  homosexuality

  and Calvinism, 178

  Catholic doctrine on, 217

  as criminal offense, 37, 215

  Pope Francis on, 32, 217

  Savonarola on, 282

  and Wilde, 37, 215, 217

  Hoppe, Leslie J., 89

  Hôtel de l’Univers, Arras, 68

  Hôtel Le Cheval Blanc, Langres, 136

  House of Savoy, 219–20

  Hugo, Victor, 45, 49, 148–49, 169

  Huguenots, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128, 175

  Hunchback of Notre-Dame, The (Hugo), 149

  Hungary, 150

  Ignatian Method, 211

  Ignatius of Loyola, Saint, 312, 323–24

  illegitimacy, 22–23

  illness, Saint Augustine on, 240

  Importance of Being Earnest, The (Wilde), 215

  incorruptibles, 78, 212

  function of miracle of, 297–98

  Saint Rose of Viterbo, 299–300

  See also Filippini, Saint Lucia

  Index of Prohibited Books, 140

  Innocent III, Pope, 103, 268

  Innocent VIII, Pope, 281

  Inquisition

  Catholics’ support for, 105

  execution of Bruno, 320

  intolerance associated with, 33

  and Pope Innocent VIII, 281

  Pope John Paul II’s apology for, 127

  and Saint Ignatius of Loyola, 323

  International Museum of the Reformation, 165, 167, 169

  Ireland

  ascetics’ preservation of books in, 44

  Book of Kells, 45–46

  Christianity established in, 15

  and England, 24

  and Saint Brigid of Kildare, 91

  and Saint Patrick, 15

  and wandering of the Irish, 261–62

  ISIS, 36

  Islam

  European intolerance of, 150

  and Frederick II, 257

  and Jerusalem, 257

  and Pope Innocent III, 268–69

  and Saint Francis of Assisi, 269

  Islamic fundamentalists, 36, 62, 127

  Italy, 196

  aging population of, 242

  Alps in, 196, 218

  American-style restaurant in, 248

  author’s family’s residence in, 253, 275–76, 279, 283, 294

  Autogrills in, 246

  and bella figura, 247–48

  Bonfire of the Vanities in, 282, 283–84

  driving in, 245–46

  economic difficulties of, 150

  emergence as nation state, 220

  hazelnuts of, 303, 306

  impact of Via Francigena on northern towns in, 246–47

  and Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17

  olive trees of, 302–3

  ruins of, 308

  Stele Statues of, 256

  sunsets in, 292

  and testaroli, 256, 258

  trash dumped in, 311, 313

  and Via Francigena, 220

  Wilde’s sonnet to, 215

  work lives of modern Italians, 259

  Ivrea, Italy, 196, 232

  James, Saint, 98

  Jefferson, Thomas, 68, 137, 140

  Jerome, Saint, 88–89, 94, 167

  Jerusalem, 123, 257, 269

  Jesuit House, Gonzaga University, 53, 60–61

  Jesuit priests, 49, 323. See also Francis, Pope

  Jesus

  on charity, 275

  and Church of England, 7

  contemporary perspectives on, 200

  cross and crucifixion relics, 109, 317–18

  and Gnostic Gospels, 86

  and Holy Prepuce, 318–19

  and Mary Magdalene, 86, 87

  message of, 44

  and message of Easter, 173, 319

  in Michelangelo’s Pietà, 260–61

  and miracle of blood dripping from host, 287

  miracles of, 48, 75–76

  and the poor, 275

  Resurrection of, 44, 319

  and sexuality, 83–85

  and “unlearned” pre-Christians, 256–57

  virgin birth of, 84–85

  Jews

  and afterlife, 301

  Catholic Church’s treatment of, 103–4, 127

  Christians’ role in furthering hatred of, 13

  expulsions, 13, 103

  and Frederick II, 257

  and Luther’s anti-Semitism, 171

  massacre by Crusaders, 123

  Pope John Paul II’s apology to, 127

  and women rabbis, 301

  Joan of Arc, Saint, 82–83, 92–94, 95, 232

  Jobs, Steve, 114

  John the Baptist, 222

  John of Flavigny, Father, 211–13, 214, 230–31, 327

  John Paul II, Pope, 18, 105, 127, 159, 321

  Johnson, Paul, 20, 43

  Joseph (Mary’s husband), 85

  joy as sign of God’s presence, 177

  Julian, Emperor of Rome, 102

  Julius II, Pope, 281, 305

  Julius III, Pope, 324

  Kennan, George, 67

  Knights Templar, 74, 99, 257

  knowledge, universal access to, 143

  Knox, John, 182

  La Storta, Italy, 196, 311–12, 320

  La Verna, Italy, Franciscan sanctuary at, 266–67, 270–73

  Labre, Saint Benoît, 39–40, 64, 232, 328

  labyrinths

  at Abbey of San Caprasio, 258, 259–60

  at Cathedral of San Martino, 264

  Greek mythology roots of, 264–65

  message of, 265

  at pilgrimage’s end, 322

  in Pontremoli, 255–56

  in Vatican City, 326

  Lake Bolsena, 196, 301

  Lake Viverone, 196, 239, 240

  Langres, France, 131, 132, 136, 138–39, 145

  Laon, France, xvi, 81, 200

  author’s arrival in, 72

  author’s attempted confession in, 78–79

  Cathedral of Notre-Dame, 73, 78–80

  miracles of, 73, 74, 78, 81, 324

  Last Judgment (Taddeo di Bartolo), 274–75, 276, 277

  Lateran Treaty (1929), 316–17

  Laurenzi, Carlo, 59, 96–97, 113, 200, 250, 311–13

  blog of, 200

 
; goals for pilgrimage, 25–26, 250

  spiritual belief of, 313–14

  Lausanne, Switzerland, 132, 164, 166, 184–85

  Lawrence, D. H., 283–84

  Lazio, 303, 310

  Leo III, Pope, 318

  Leo X, Pope, 167, 169

  Les Misérables (Hugo), 130, 149

  liberty, 141

  listening on pilgrimages, 213

  literacy, 44–45

  loneliness of pilgrimage, 96, 193

  Lorenzetti, Ambrogio, 277

  “Lost Monument,” Geneva, 176

  Lourdes, France, 75

  Lucca, Italy, 196, 261–62, 264

  Lucia (Filippini), Saint. See Filippini, Saint Lucia

  Lunigiana region, 255

  Luther, Martin

  on abstinence/celibacy, 94, 169

  anti-Semitism of, 171–72

  Bible translated by, 167, 170

  and Calvin, 179

  democratization of Christianity, 167

  and Erasmus, 124

  excommunication of, 169

  in exile, 170

  and Gutenberg’s printing press, 169

  marriage and family of, 170

  modern perspectives on, 172, 173

  95 theses of, 163–64, 167, 168

  and Peasants’ War, 170–71

  and Reformation, 182

  and Saint Augustine, 234

  trial of, 169–70

  Lutheranism, 170, 172–73

  Macron, Emmanuel, 39, 54

  Malik al-Kamil, Sultan of Egypt, 269

  Manchester, William, 116, 180

  marble quarries, 260

  marriage, 88, 288–90

  Martigny, Switzerland, 193, 203

  Martin (of Tours), Saint, 56

  Mary, Virgin

  and Gnostic Gospels, 86

  in Michelangelo’s Pietà, 260–61

  and Palio horse race, 279

  virgin status of, 84–85, 88–89, 91, 94

  Mary I, Queen of England, 17

  Mary Magdalene, 85, 86–87, 90–91

  Massacre of Wassy, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128

  Maurice, Saint, 189–90, 192

  McCrae, John, 71

  Meagher, Thomas Francis, 49

  Medici, Giovanni de’, 167, 169

  Medici family, 281, 284

  medieval era, 8, 29–31, 44

  Mencken, H. L., 182

  Mensah, Alexis, 153

  Mercury, Freddie, 187

  Metaxas, Eric, 170

  Michelangelo, 260–61, 315

  military-miracle converts, 77

  mindfulness, 259

  miracles

  author’s hopes for, 81, 324

  and author’s rationality, 287

  effected by relics, 18

  Father John of Flavigny on, 212

  guidelines for reviewing, 77–78

  Hitchens on, 48, 75

  of Jesus, 48, 75–76

  of Jesus’ blood dripping from host, 287

  of Laon, 73, 74, 78, 81, 324

  at Lourdes, 75

  military-miracle converts, 77

  Miracle of Orléans, 92

  people’s search for, 48–49

  and Pope Francis, 77

  as recruiting tool, 48

  Saint Augustine on, 74–75, 78, 287

  of Saint Christina, 287

  of Saint Paul’s conversion, 76–77

  at Saint Thomas Becket’s tomb, 11

  and sainthood, 77–78

  sight restored to the blind, 14

  stigmata, 270, 271, 272

  undecayed bodies of saints. See incorruptibles

  Mitterrand, François, 205

  Moët & Chandon, 109–10, 111–12

  monarchs

  as anointed leaders, 104–5

  conversion of Clovis, 77, 100, 104, 105

  and Divine Right of Kings, 101, 104

  and droit du seigneur, 105

  and Holy Ampulla, 98, 104, 107

  Queen Victoria’s descendants, 69–70

  See also specific monarchs

  money, modern emphasis on, 259–60

  Mont-Saint-Michel, France, 56

  Monte dei Paschi di Siena, 279–80

  Monte Mario park, Rome, 314–15

  Montecassino, Benedictine monastery at, 56

  Montefiascone, Italy, 196, 286, 287, 294–95

  Montmollin, Gabriel de, 171–72

  Montreux, Switzerland, 132, 186–87

  Monument to the Dead, Péronne, 70

  Moore, Tim, 123

  motivations for pilgrimage, 6–7

  Mount Fogliano, 303, 304

  Musée Protestant de la Grange de Wassy, 121

  Museum of the Great War, Péronne, 70–71

  Muslims

  in France, 143

  and Frederick II, 257

  and Saint Francis of Assisi, 267, 269

  See also Crusades

  Mussolini, Benito, 316–17

  mysticism, 285

  myths, function of, 222–23

  Napoleon. See Bonaparte, Napoleon

  nationalism, 68, 150, 246

  nature, duty to protect, 153

  Neanderthals, 223

  Nero, Emperor of Rome, 318

  New Orleans, 190

  New Testament scriptures, 75–77

  Noah’s Ark, 305

  Norsemen, 57–58

  Norway, 58, 170

  Notre-Dame church, Calais, 39

  Odoacer, King of Italy, 261

  O’Donnell, Patrick G., 141, 154–59, 160

  olive trees, Italy, 302–3

  On the Errors of the Trinity (Servetus), 180

  On the Jews and Their Lies (Luther), 171

  On the Nature and Dignity of Love (William of Saint-Thierry), 97

  O’Neill, Michael, 78

  Orsières, Switzerland, 132, 201–2

  Our Lady of Miracles, Saint-Omer, 48

  pagans, eternal fate of, 256–57

  Paine, Thomas, 137

  Palace of Tau, Reims, 107

  Palio horse race, 277, 279, 284

  Pancras, Saint, 5, 311

  Pantheon, Rome, 260

  parenthood, 217–18

  Paris, 103, 119, 125

  Pas-de-Calais, 31, 126

  Pascal, Blaise, 230

  “Pascal’s Wager,” 230

  Passo della Cisa, 196, 254

  Path to Rome, The (Belloc), 99–100

  Patrick, Saint, 15

  Paul, Saint, 76–77, 87–88, 260, 316, 318

  Pavia, Italy, xv, 196, 234, 242–43, 244

  Peasants’ War, 170–71

  Pérignon, Pierre (Dom), 109–10, 111–12, 145, 310

  Perini, Giovanni, 258–60

  Péronne, France, xvi, 70–71

  Peter, Saint, 252–53, 316, 327

  Peters, Julia, 28

  Petrarch, 322

  Philip Augustus, King of France, 103

  Philosophical Thoughts (Diderot), 137

  Piacenza, Italy, 196, 245–49

  Picture of Dorian Gray, The (Wilde), 215

  Pietà (Michelangelo), 260–61

  pigeons and dovecotes, 130–31

  pilgrimage of author

  commencement of, 3–4, 9

  and digital cleanse, 54

  effect on cluttered thinking, 259, 276

  end of, 319–20

  and footwear, 247–48, 249, 278

  goals and expectations for, 238, 243–44

  halfway point of, 186

  hydration on, 96–97, 223
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  injuries, 139, 201, 221, 224, 232, 237, 238–39, 240, 271, 328

  loneliness of, 96, 193

  mishaps and misadventures on, 51–52, 115, 193, 306–7, 308

  motivations for, 6–7

  nearing Rome, 309, 314–15

  outcome of, 320

  pilgrim passport for, 9, 297, 326

  preparations for, 3

  provisions on, 201, 235

  and rental car, 245–46, 251, 253, 271, 285, 286

  route to Rome. See Via Francigena

  spiritual progress on, 113–15, 287, 319, 323, 327–28

  and summer heat, 186, 199, 200–201

  Testimonium for completion of, 9, 319, 326

  time required for, 8, 326

  wife’s encouragement of, 302

  pilgrims

  and absolution, 320

  and benefits of pilgrimage, 11, 259, 304

  critics of, 25

  eleventh-century depiction of, 252

  at Great Saint Bernard Hospice, 208–10

  and labyrinths, 265

  in medieval era, 8, 30, 252, 253–54

  motivations of, 8–9, 25, 30, 259, 288

  offerings left in Berceto, 253–54

  on road to Saint James’s tomb, 98

  searching by, 259–60

  spiritual changes in, 313

  starting in Canterbury, 19

  and time to think, 259

  Pittet, Daniel, 250

  Pius XI, Pope, 316–17

  Pius XII, Pope, 33

  Piverone, Italy, 237

  plagues, 29, 274, 278

  planetary movement, 320

  Poland, 150

  Pontremoli, Italy, 196, 255–57

  Poor Clares, 270

  popes (Pontifex Maximus), 103, 228

  kissing shoes of, 324

  and Medici family, 284

  and papal seat in France, 278

  and Saint Augustine’s relics, 244

  in Viterbo, 299

  See also Vatican; specific popes, including Francis, Pope

  Porte de Mars, Reims, 98

  Portugal, 104

  poverty

  freedom afforded by, 268, 270

  of Saint Francis of Assisi, 268, 270

  and treatment of the poor, 275

  prayer

  author’s, for sister-in-law, 81, 107, 192, 200, 276, 324

  nature of, 313

  unceasing prayer at Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 187–88, 190

  predestination, 178, 180, 239–40

  Presbyterian Church, 182

  Pretini, Alessandro, 267

  Primavera (Botticelli), 280–81

  printing press, 46, 47, 123, 168–69

  Protestants and Protestant movement

  doctrines of, 127–28

  and Edict of Nantes (1598), 125

  founding narrative of, 163–64

  in France, 124

  Massacre of Wassy, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128

  Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, Paris, 125

 

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