Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  Unfortunately, there appears to be little logic behind how the system is organised and how it functions. Buses and maxitaxi routes change frequently; often these changes are communicated between people by word of mouth. Towns and cities will sometimes have a half-dozen different bus stations (autogara) and maxitaxi stops, depending on which company is operating a particular route and the destination in question.

  In many cities and towns it's not possible to list firm bus stations and routes. In these cases, the helpful website Autogari.ro (www.autogari.ro) is a godsend. This is an up-to-date national timetable that is relatively easy to use and lists routes, times, fares and departure points. Another tried and true method is simply to ask around.

  Once you've located the bus station and your bus, buy tickets directly from the driver. Have small bills handy, as drivers cannot usually provide change for big bills.

  Fares vary according to the demand and number of competing bus companies, but are usually cheap. Figure on about 4 to 5 lei for every 20km travelled.

  Car & Motorcycle

  Driving around Romania has some compelling advantages. With your own wheels, you're free to explore off-the-beaten-track destinations, remote monasteries and tiny villages. Additionally, you're no longer at the whim of capricious local bus schedules and inconvenient, early-morning train departures.

  That said, driving in Romania is not ideal, and if you have the chance to use alternatives like the train and bus, this can be a much more relaxing option.

  Roads are generally crowded and in poor condition. The country has only a few stretches of motorway (autostrada), meaning that most of your travel will be along two-lane national highways (DN, drum naţional) or secondary roads (DJ, drum judeţean). These pass through every village en route and are choked with cars and trucks, and even occasionally horse carts and tractors pulling hay racks. It's white-knuckle driving made worse by aggressive motorists in fast cars trying to overtake on every hill and blind curve. When calculating arrival times, figure on covering about 50km per hour.

  Western-style petrol stations are plentiful, but be sure to fill up before heading on long trips through the mountains or in remote areas. A litre of unleaded 95 octane cost about 5 lei at the time of research. Petrol stations invariably accept credit cards, but you'll need to have a PIN to use them.

  Hire

  International companies like Avis, Budget, Hertz and Europcar have offices in large cities and at Henri Coandă International Airport in Bucharest. In addition, locally owned car-hire companies usually operate in large cities and can be cheaper. Book cars in advance over company websites to get the best rates. Drivers must normally be at least 21 years old, and the renter must hold a valid credit card.

  ROAD RULES

  Motorists are required to buy and display a sticker, called a rovinieta (www.roviniete.ro), that can be purchased on the border, at petrol stations or online. A vignette valid for one week costs about 15 lei, for 30 days around 40 lei.

  Other common traffic rules are as follows:

  AStandard speed limits are 50km/h in town; 90km/h on national roads; 130km/h on four-lane expressways.

  AThe minimum driving age is 18.

  AThe blood-alcohol limit is zero.

  AThe use of seat belts is compulsory for front-seat passengers. Children under 12 are prohibited from sitting in the front seat.

  AHeadlights must be always on, even in bright daylight.

  AGive way to traffic entering a roundabout.

  Hitching

  Hitching is a popular way of moving from town to town in Romania, where hitchers, usually students, line up on the main road just beyond the town or city limits and stick out their arms to hail a ride. That said, hitching occupies a grey area in Romanian law, is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. If you decide to hitch anyway, note that it’s common practice to pay the equivalent of the bus fare to the driver (about 1 to 2 lei for every 10km).

  Local Transport

  Bus, Tram, 'Maxitaxi' & Trolleybus

  Romanian cities generally have good public-transport systems comprised of buses, trams, trolleybuses and, in some cases, maxitaxis. Bucharest is the only Romanian city with an underground metro. The method for accessing the systems is broadly similar. Purchase bus or tram tickets at newsagents or street kiosks marked bilete or casă de bilete before boarding, and validate the ticket once onboard. For maxitaxis, you usually buy a ticket directly from the driver. Tickets generally cost from 1 to 3 lei per ride.

  Taxi

  Taxis are cheap, reliable and a useful supplement to the public-transport systems. Drivers are required by law to post their rates on their doors or windscreens. The going rate varies from city to city but ranges from 1.39 to 1.79 lei per kilometre. Any driver posting a higher fare is likely looking to rip off unsuspecting passengers.

  While it's usually OK to use a taxi parked at a taxi rank (provided the taxi is not one of those lined up at Bucharest's airport or main train station) or to hail one from the street, it's much better and safer to order taxis by phone from reputable companies or to ask a hotel or restaurant to call one for you. In Bucharest, try Cobalcescu, CrisTaxi or Meridian.

  Tours

  Considering how remote much of Romania remains, it’s not a bad idea to consider arranging a tour with local agencies. Here are some of the standouts.

  Apuseni Experience Oradea-based outfit arranging multiday hiking and biking trips in the Apuseni Mountains.

  Hello Bucovina Suceava-based company offering day trips to the Bucovina painted monasteries and other regional sights, as well as more ambitious journeys to Ukraine and Moldova.

  RoCultours/CTI Reliable agent with many cultural tours, and personalised itineraries listed on the website. It’s best to contact them in advance.

  Roving România Tailormade trips with Roving România allow small groups to access Transylvania's natural splendour and enjoy authentic village life.

  Transylvanian Wolf Family-run nature tour company leading walks on the trail of animals such as wolves, bears and lynx.

  Train

  Trains are a slow but reliable way of getting around Romania. The extensive network covers much of the country, including most of the main tourist sights and key destinations.

  The national rail system is run by Căile Ferate Române (CFR; www.cfrcalatori.ro); the website has a handy online timetable (mersul trenurilor).

  Buy tickets at train-station windows, specialised Agenţia de Voiaj CFR ticket offices, private travel agencies, or online at www.cfrcalatori.ro.

  Sosire means 'arrivals' and plecare, 'departures'. On posted timetables, the number of the platform from which the train departs is listed under linia.

  Classes & Types

  Romania has broadly three different types of passenger trains that travel at different speeds, offer varying levels of comfort, and charge different fares for the same destination.

  AInterCity, listed in blue or green as ‘IC’ on timetables, are the most expensive and most comfortable but are not always much faster than ‘IR’ trains. IC trains often travel outside the country.

  AInterRegional, listed in red as ‘IR’ on timetables, are the next rung down. These are cheaper and nearly as fast as 'IC' trains, but may not be as modern.

  ARegional, listed in black as ‘R’ on timetables, are typically the oldest and slowest trains in the system, often sporting historic rolling stock.

  Language

  Welcome to Bulgaria

  Soul-stirring mountains rival golden beaches, while cities hum with nightlife and art. Within Bulgaria’s beguiling blend of nature and history, unforgettable adventures are guaranteed.

  Plovdiv | Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock ©

  Black Sea Beaches

  Long, sandy beaches and fine weather reel holidaymakers into Bulgaria’s Black Sea resorts each summer. Bulgarian inlanders are helplessly drawn to the freshening s
ea breeze and miles of turquoise water. Foreign visitors, too, are wise to Bulgaria’s coast, thanks to gorgeous seaside resorts such as Primorsko (and prices that compete well with Western Europe). Even the coast's two big cities, Varna and Burgas, have attractive beaches within minutes of their urban hearts. And while Sunny Beach, Sozopol and other favourites are thoroughly developed, there are still plenty of undiscovered coves north and south of the major hubs.

  Churches & Religious Art

  No visitor to Bulgaria can fail to be impressed by its religious art, from vast gold-domed churches to miniature icon paintings. Sofia’s Aleksander Nevski Church and 10th-century Rila Monastery draw visitors and pilgrims galore, while Tryavna’s wood carvings and Bachkovo’s apocalyptic murals are gathering fame. But Orthodox churches in even the tiniest villages have much to admire: emotive paintings of saints, often set in carved wooden screens (iconostases), appear magical when bathed in flickering candlelight. Almost as spectacular are the settings of many sacred buildings: granite cliffs, thrashing streams and lonely mountain passes.

  Mountains & Forests

  Bulgaria’s untamed landscapes quicken the pulse of hikers, mountain bikers and skiers. Seven mountain ranges ripple across the country; glacial lakes sparkle between these snow-dusted peaks, and tangles of forest conceal wolves, bears and lynx, a glimpse of Europe’s primeval past. Networks of trails and hizhas (hiking huts) allow access to such raw beauty as mist-cloaked panoramas in the Stara Planina range and sunrise from Bulgaria’s second-highest peak, Mt Vihren (2915m). Between trekking among Rodopi villages, thundering across ski fields in Bansko or birdwatching in Pirin National Park, Bulgaria has much to delight (and exhaust) lovers of the great outdoors.

  Ancient History

  Whispers of history emanate from Bulgaria’s fortresses and ruins. Caves secreted in Bulgaria’s river-sculpted wilds hold traces of Neolithic settlements. The mysterious Thracians left behind dazzling hauls of gold and silver, and tombs that can be explored to this day. The Romans built cities of breathtaking scale, the bathhouses, walls and amphitheatres of which sit nonchalantly in the midst of modern cities such as Varna and Plovdiv. Successions of tsars strutted along the ramparts of Tsarevets Fortress at former capital Veliko Târnovo. And these histories are no less relevant today, with Thracian art and Bulgaria’s victory over the Ottomans continuing to inspire.

  Why I Love Bulgaria

  By Anita Isalska, Writer

  Somewhere between panoramas of the Pirin Mountains and the cobbled nooks of old Plovdiv, Bulgaria grabbed my imagination – and it still hasn’t let go. Bulgaria is a mysterious, multilayered country, with ski fields as fantastic as its beaches. But what keeps me in thrall is Bulgaria’s mash-up of ancient and cutting-edge culture. What could be more alluring than heavy metal concerts in a Roman stadium, light shows over a medieval fortress, or crumbling mansions reborn as bars? Archaeological discoveries are made all the time, so there’s something new and compelling each time I visit: the perfect excuse to keep coming back.

  Need to Know

  Currency

  Lev/leva (singular/plural; lv)

  Language

  Bulgarian

  Money

  ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants; smaller guesthouses or rural businesses may only accept cash.

  Visas

  Visas are not required for EU citizens. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the USA can visit visa-free for up to 90 days.

  Mobile Phones

  Visitors from elsewhere in Europe will be able to use their mobile phones in Bulgaria. Local SIM cards are easy to buy in mobile phone stores (bring your passport) and can be used in most phones.

  Transport

  Drive on the right. Buses link most towns, trains are slower.

  When to Go

  High Season (Jun–Aug)

  AHigh temperatures, sunny days and mild evenings throughout Bulgaria.

  AThe Black Sea coast is at its liveliest and most expensive.

  AInland cities can be stiflingly warm, though attractions remain busy.

  Shoulder (Apr, May, Sep & Oct)

  ASpring and autumn have warm weather and a calendar of cultural celebrations.

  ASpring melt can be hazardous; otherwise, weather is ideal for outdoor exploration.

  ASights and attractions open again after winter, with fewer tourists than high summer.

  Low Season (Nov–Mar)

  ATemperatures fall rapidly in autumn, and snow is common over much of the country in winter.

  AMany coastal resorts close completely, but ski resorts are in full swing between December and February.

  Your Daily Budget

  Budget: Less than 70 lv

  ADorm bed: 18–22 lv

  ARoom in a simple guesthouse: 25–50 lv

  AMeals from cafeterias: 5–10 lv

  APublic transport tickets: around 1 lv

  Midrange: 70–150 lv

  ADouble room in a midrange hotel: 60–80 lv

  ALunch and dinner in quality restaurants: 20–30 lv

  ATaxi from airport to centre in Sofia or Plovdiv: 15 lv

  Top End: More than 150 lv

  ADouble room in top-end hotel: 150–300 lv

  AThree-course meals with wine in top-end restaurants: 30–55 lv

  ASpa treatments: from 30 lv

  Websites

  Anglo Info (www.angloinfo.com/bulgaria) Expat site with useful general information.

  Beach Bulgaria (www.beachbulgaria.com) Seaside information and beach bookings.

  Bulgarian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfa.government.bg) Visas, consulates and other practical basic information.

  Bulgaria Travel (www.bulgariatravel.org) Official tourism portal.

  Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/bulgaria) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Vagabond (www.vagabond.bg) Features on culture and politics.

  Exchange Rates

  For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

  Important Numbers

  Bulgarian area codes have between two and five numerals. When dialling a local number, drop the initial 0. The EU-wide emergency number 112 can be used in Bulgaria.

  Arriving in Bulgaria

  Sofia Airport Sofia's metro runs between Terminal 2 and Serdika station (1 lv, 20 minutes); buy tickets in the station, located just outside the terminal exit. Bus 84 (1 lv, 40 to 50 minutes) also travels to central Sofia; buy tickets from the driver. Taxis (10 lv to 15 lv, 30 to 40 minutes) can be booked at the OK-Supertrans counter (staff will give you a slip of paper with the three-digit code of your cab).

  Plovdiv Airport There's no airport shuttle bus; get a Violet Taxi to the centre (around 15 lv, 20 minutes).

  Varna Airport Bus 409 (1 lv, 30 minutes) runs to central Varna and toward Golden Sands. A taxi from the airport costs 10 lv to 20 lv and takes 20 to 30 minutes.

  Yes or No?

  One cultural oddity that foreign visitors may find confusing at first is that Bulgarians shake their heads from side to side in a curved, almost wobbly motion to indicate 'yes', and gently jerk their heads up and backwards when they want to say 'no'. To add to the confusion, if Bulgarians know they are addressing a foreigner, they may reverse these gestures in an attempt to be helpful. If you are in any doubt about their real meaning, asking 'Da ili ne?' (Yes or no?) will soon set you straight.

  If You Like…

  Churches & Religious Art

  Rila Monastery This millennium-old monastery in Rila Mountains is decorated with frescoes by 19th-century master Zahari Zograf.

  Boyana Church A Unesco-listed 13th-century sanctuary houses rare and movingly realistic murals of saints and royals.

  Aleksander Nevski Church & Crypt Beneath the domes of Sofia's neo-Byzantine masterpiece lies Bulgaria's biggest collection of religious art.

  Sveti Stefan Church Sixteenth- to 18th-century murals cover virtually the whole interior of this church in Nese
bâr.

  Nativity Church Arbanasi's five-chamber church, dating to the 17th century, has frescoes and remarkable hand-carved iconostases.

  Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena A copper-domed landmark for Plovdiv's old town, this whitewashed church has sumptuous 19th-century murals.

  Beaches

  Primorsko This laid-back resort town has the best beaches and its family-friendly shores are ideal for paddling.

  Sunny Beach Bulgaria's most popular destination for foreign visitors, with soft sands and plenty of nightlife.

  Sinemorets A far-southern town with white sandy beaches, clean water and a slow pace of life.