Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
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Varna Bulgaria's 'maritime capital' has a long sandy beach within easy walking distance of some big-city buzz.
Sozopol Distract yourself from Sozopol’s ancient history at sun-kissed beaches or the excellent diving centre.
Albena Splash in the crystal waters lapping this resort's 4km-long beach, before unwinding at a spa.
Sozopol | Mikhail Markovskiy / Shutterstock ©
Fortresses & Ruins
Tsarevets Fortress The seat of medieval tsars in Veliko Târnovo impresses with mighty walls and towers.
Roman Amphitheatre Plovdiv's theatre was built in the 2nd century AD, and still hosts drama and music performances.
Kaleto Fortress Almost blending into Belogradchik Rocks, this citadel was built over Roman-era foundations.
Baba Vida Fortress Originally a Roman fort, this fortress was built up by medieval Bulgarians and 17th-century Turks.
Hisar Vast Roman gateways and expansive ruined walls dominate this captivating little spa town.
Roman Thermae In the port of Odessos (modern-day Varna), see the remains of a huge public bathing complex.
Skiing & Snowboarding
Bansko Bulgaria's biggest and most popular resort also has by far the best après-ski fun.
Pamporovo A fast-developing modern resort with slopes for learners, though there's not much to the town.
Borovets Zoom down tree-lined runs to this sprawling resort, well-suited to intermediate skiers.
Chepelare This small ski area in a low-key Rodopi Mountain village has easy, family-friendly trails.
Mt Vitosha Not snow-sure, but Vitosha's well-connected slopes allow for an afternoon’s skiing followed by Sofia nightlife.
Malîovitsa Get off the beaten piste at this rickety, pocket-sized ski area in the Rila Mountains.
Myths & Legends
Belogradchik Rocks A geological wonderland infused with the tragic folk tale of a heartbroken nun.
Stob Pyramids Ecotrail Stories say these stone towers are the remains of a wedding procession frozen in shock.
Museum of Folk Craft & Applied Arts Some Bulgarian villagers don kukeri costumes, displayed in this Troyan museum, to chase spirits.
Halkata Rock This 8m rock formation near Sliven is thought to exert magical, gender-bending power.
Historical Museum Learn the mysteries of the Kibela (Cybele) Temple, unearthed in Balchik in 2007, at this local museum.
Hiking & Climbing
Rila Mountains This forested range has walking routes for all abilities, plus a school for climbers and mountaineers.
Pirin Mountains This landscape of glacial lakes and valleys has challenging climbs and remote hiking routes.
Rodopi Mountains Hikes in these mountains pass lush countryside, villages and wonders such as Trigrad Cave.
Stara Planina Bulgaria's 'Old Mountains' offer breathtaking scenery and a variety of peaks and valleys.
Blue Rocks Trek in the footsteps of Bulgaria's anti-Ottoman rebels in the craggy outskirts of Sliven.
Vrachanska Mountains Peaceful trails extend from quiet Vratsa, with more challenging routes toward Ledenika Cave.
Mountaineer in Pirin National Park | Evgeny Subbotsky / Shutterstock ©
Month by Month
Top Events
Varna Summer International Festival, June–September
Rose Festival, June
International Jazz Festival, August
Apollonia Arts Festival, September
January
New Year festivities in Bulgaria can be colourful affairs, especially in rural areas where old customs are still followed. Snow covers much of the country and it is a peak time for winter sports.
zSt Vasil’s Day
Traditionally, New Year’s Day in the countryside is marked by young boys, known as sourvakari, tapping people with decorated twigs to wish them luck for the year ahead.
February
Cold and crisp, February is a quiet time of year in the cities, but the skiing and snowboarding season is often at its best. It's a good time for snowshoeing, too.
zGolden Grapes Festival
To celebrate the patron saint of wine in Melnik and other winemaking areas, vines are pruned, sprinkled with wine and blessed by a priest. The festival is celebrated on the first or 14th day of February (often both).
March
March straddles winter and spring, so the weather can be unpredictable. Snowfall is still possible in the mountains though ski season is winding down. Tourist sites start to gradually open up again after winter.
2Baba Marta
‘Granny March’ signifies the beginning of spring, and on 1 March Bulgarians present each other with red and white woollen tassels, known as martenitsi, as good-luck tokens. You'll notice them tied to tree branches throughout the spring.
3March Days of Music Festival
One of Bulgaria's best classical music festivals, held in Ruse. Concerts take place over the last two weeks of the month (www.marchmusicdays.eu).
April
The weather begins to warm up in April, and what's left of the ski season officially ends. Depending on the year, Orthodox Easter celebrations usually take place during this month.
2Orthodox Easter
Easter is the most important festival of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church. Throngs of churchgoers attend 11pm masses where incense hangs thick in the air. Egg fighting competitions sometimes take place outside. Special bread loaves and dyed eggs are prepared.
Traditional Orthodox Easter foods | Gts / Shutterstock ©
May
May is often showery and warm, and is a good time to visit the coast before crowds descend and prices rise. Some of the biggest festivals begin this month.
2Re-enactment of the 1876 April Uprising
The momentous events surrounding the 1876 April Uprising (h1-2 May) are remembered by patriotic locals in Koprivshtitsa, who dress in period costume. It's held around 1 and 2 May.
zGoat Milk Festival
A blend of traditional Balkan village culture, cutting-edge art and thought-provoking debate unfurls in mid-May at the Goat Milk Festival (www.novakultura.org/goat-milk) in Gorna Bela Rechka village, 55km north of Sofia.
June
Summer is well under way, temperatures are rising and the tourist season on the coast begins. This is a great time for hiking, climbing and birdwatching.
zRose Festival
As the roses of surrounding valleys burst into flower, Kazanlâk and neighbouring villages bless visitors with rose water, sip rose liqueur and dance at street parades. The main event is held in Kazanlâk's main square on the first weekend in June.
Rose Festival, Kazanlâk | Nikolay100 / Shutterstock ©
3Varna Summer International Festival
Ramping up in June and lasting throughout the summer in Varna, this is one of the oldest and biggest festivals in Bulgaria, comprising music, theatre and other cultural events (www.varnasummerfest.org).
July
High temperatures are recorded across the country in July. Both Bulgarian and foreign tourists flock to the coastal resorts, while the cities bake.
2Sand Sculpture Festival
High temperatures are recorded across the country in July. Both Bulgarian and foreign tourists flock to the coastal resorts, while the cities bake.
August
Temperatures are at their highest in August, with long, hot sunny days, warm evenings and little or no rain. Music festivals are in full swing.
3Spirit of Burgas Festival
A popular Black Sea music event, Spirit of Burgas brings in rock, hip-hop and experimental acts and DJs for a beach party in early August.
3International Jazz Festival
Top jazz musicians from across Europe and beyond come to Bansko. Free concerts are held in the main square over a week in August (www.banskojazzfest.com).
September
Days are still hot in September, but begin to cool later in the month. A good time for birdwatching, as the Via Po
ntica migration begins.
3Apollonia Arts Festival
A huge festival of music, drama and dance in seaside Sozopol, attracting big names over the first week of the month (www.apollonia.bg).
3Plovdiv Night of the Galleries
Plovdiv's galleries open their doors for free on one Friday evening late in September, alongside performances and open-air film screenings around town (www.night.bg).
October
Cooler days across Bulgaria come in October, but temperatures are still pleasant. Harvest and cultural festivals take place around the country.
November
Winter approaches and temperatures drop. Expect rain and cold, shorter days. The pace of life slows down, but there's always something to see and do in the cities.
zYoung Wine Parade
Plovdiv celebrates the new wine vintage with parades, performances and opportunities to sample fresh local wines in the streets and houses of the old town (www.visitplovdiv.com).
December
Cold weather descends in December, with snowfall on higher ground. The skiing season begins, though conditions won't be at their best until the end of the month. Christmas services in Orthodox churches are truly atmospheric.
Itineraries
From Sofia to the Coast
10 Days
Explore Bulgaria’s greatest hits, from the capital to the coast. Start in Sofia, stop off at its sassier sister Plovdiv, then wriggle your toes into sandy beaches along the Black Sea coast.
Begin in Bulgaria’s lively capital city, Sofia. Over three days, take in the city’s centrepiece, shimmering Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church, a couple of fascinating museums, and a day trip to the resplendent Rila Monastery.
Board a bus or train east to Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second city. Spend two days immersing yourself in the charming old town, Roman ruins, and bohemian nightlife, perhaps with a half-day out at spellbinding Asen’s Fortress (Assenovgrad; adult/student 3/2 lv; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) and Bachkovo Monastery.
Reach Burgas on the Black Sea coast by bus or train. Stay at least one night in this laid-back city, before hopping on a bus for the short trip south to the ancient town of Sozopol. Spend one or two days amid Sozopol’s quaint cobbled lanes and attractive sandy beaches. If you're here in summer, catch the ferry up to Nesebâr, famed for its numerous medieval churches, and spend the day sightseeing. Return to Burgas to get the bus or train back to Sofia.
Itineraries
Along the Danube to the Sea
1 Week
Mix mountain trails and historic sights on this week-long trip, and reward yourself with beach time at the end. This route winds through Bulgaria’s lesser explored north to the Black Sea’s sun-kissed shores.
From Sofia, head north by bus to the little town of Vratsa, to spend two days walking in the mountains or browsing museums. From here, travel by bus to Pleven where you can pick up another bus to elegant, appealing Ruse, for your first glimpse of the mighty Danube. Spend two nights in Ruse, taking in its grand Viennese-style architecture. On one of the days, head south of the city to Rusenski Lom Nature Park to see remarkable rock churches and caves, and maybe spot rare wildlife.
From Ruse head eastward to Silistra. Over a day or two, admire the Historical Museum’s hoard of Roman gold and make an excursion to the Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari. Continue to the Black Sea coast at Varna for your final one or two days. Relax on the long, sandy city beach, enjoy a show or concert at one of the city's many cultural venues, or go clubbing along the vibrant seafront.
Itineraries
Southern & Central Mountains
2 Weeks
Central Bulgaria overflows with wine, revolutionary history and thrilling mountains. Discover wondrous rock formations, mountain villages, spa towns and the Valley of the Roses, as well as Bulgaria’s famous fortress at Veliko Târnovo.
From Sofia, take a bus south to tranquil Melnik, famous for wine, chalky pyramids and National Revival–era mansions. Steep yourself in local wine for two days, and visit the serene Rozhen Monastery nearby. Continue by bus to Bansko, for two days of summer hikes or winter skiing.
From Bansko, meander by narrow-gauge rail through mountainous forests to Septemvri, then on to Plovdiv. Spend two or three days exploring Plovdiv’s 19th-century house-museums and thrumming Kapana artistic quarter. Take a rest day simmering in the spa waters of Hisar just north, before continuing to atmospheric Karlovo, birth town of Bulgaria’s most famous revolutionary hero.
Board a bus to Kazanlâk, gateway to evocative burial mounds and the fragrant Rose Valley (in bloom each May to June). Cross the mountains at Shipka Pass, stopping first in Shipka to see its dazzling onion-domed church. Finally, unwind in the shadow of an impressive fortress in Veliko Târnovo, Bulgaria’s medieval capital, allowing a day to hike nearby Emen Canyon.
Regions at a Glance
Sofia
Cultural Riches
Bulgaria's capital is the country's cultural heart, with centuries-old religious art and cutting-edge installations. Seek Thracian treasures in the Archaeological Museum, peruse Bulgarian paintings at the National Art Gallery, or visit a battalion of Lenins at the Museum of Socialist Art.
Green Escapes
Experience a calmer side to Sofia amid the greenery of Borisova Gradina, spun with shady pathways and child-friendly play areas. Alternatively, City Garden and the university's Botanic Garden are pleasant escapes from the city bustle.
Diverse Dining
Sofia has some of Bulgaria's best and most varied restaurants. Go beyond high-quality traditional Bulgarian cuisine, and let your taste buds explore Turkish and Moroccan dishes, Italian gelato and coffee, and an increasing range of veggie options.
Regions at a Glance
Plovdiv & Southern Mountains
Unique Galleries
Plovdiv’s old town is an impeccable host for some of the Balkans’ most distinctive art galleries, housing vibrant contemporary sculpture, Mexican art and 200-year-old Bulgarian landscape paintings. Don't miss the free nocturnal exhibitions each September.
Ski Resorts
Rila, Pirin and Rodopi Mountains offer the country’s best skiing. Bansko boasts the most reliable snow, plus guaranteed après-ski mayhem; Borovets draws big crowds to its 58km of pistes; while smaller resorts such as Chepelare are family friendly, with idyllic cross-country trails.
Cultural Energy
On one evening, watch opera in a Roman theatre. On the next, experience hard rock vibrating the walls of a box-sized alternative bar. Plovdiv has a breathtaking array of entertainment, with the revived Kapana quarter at the forefront.
Regions at a Glance
Veliko Târnovo & Central Mountains
Lavish Churches
Central Bulgaria’s Orthodox churches, many dating to Byzantine times, are among the Balkans’ most historically and aesthetically significant. Elaborate iconostases and masterful frescoes have survived centuries of upheaval. Discover standout monasteries in Troyan and Dryanovo, and superb churches dotted around Veliko Târnovo.
Quaint Mansions
Bulgaria’s central heartland was crucial to the National Revival of the 18th and 19th centuries, and many richly decorated period mansions are now museums or B&Bs. Explore frozen-in-time villages such as Koprivshtitsa and Etâr for a flavour of the past.
Windswept Walks
The Stara Planina mountain range stretches across Bulgaria’s central spine for almost 550km. This rolling deciduous-and-pine range is bisected with marked trails – perfect for both easy ambling on a forested path and arduous long-haul trekking.
Regions at a Glance
Black Sea Coast
Sun-Kissed Sand
Bulgaria's Black Sea coastline is the country's biggest tourist draw, boasting long and inviting sandy beaches. Top up your tan, try jet-skiing or parasailing at the big resorts, or find a hidden cove in the far north or south.
Ancient Towns
With histories stretchi
ng back millennia, the Black Sea's quaint towns are a joy to explore. Take a trip back in time through the cobbled lanes of Sozopol and explore the ruined medieval churches of Nesebâr.
Bold Nightclubs
The Black Sea coast has many of Bulgaria's best clubs. The big package resorts have the pick of the bunch, attracting international DJs and acts, while Varna is summertime party central for young Bulgarians.