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A Year in Paris

Page 20

by John Baxter


  You’ll find it out, and make it yours at last.

  Plough up the ground as soon as autumn’s past,

  And dig and delve—nor grudge the daily pain;

  And when you’ve toiled, return and toil again.”

  He died. The sons turned up the field;

  Incessant was their toil, and when the year

  Was ended, large the produce it did yield,

  Though ne’er a hidden treasure did appear.

  Wise was the father, ere he died, to show

  That labour is the mine whence riches flow.

  It was almost too good to be true. For the author of the Republican calendar to live on a street that celebrated the rural virtues and to have the site of his former home marked by a tree—endings didn’t come more fortuitous than that. And when the children gathered under its branches for the Fête de la Musique, what were the odds they sang “Il pleut, bergère”?

  Life in France is less about achievement than process. Hours, days, months, seasons, years pass, each with promises honored or thwarted, events celebrated or endured. The world turns, but France, like the pivot of Foucault’s pendulum, remains in its essentials unchanged. For such a culture the Republican calendar, preoccupied with nature and the seasons, may be, for all its faults, an apt metaphor and Philippe-François-Nazaire Fabre, however disreputable, a fitting laureate.

  Important Dates and Events

  JANUARY

  1. Réveillon. The new year is welcomed in various locations, notably the Champs-Élyseés.

  6. Nuit des Rois (Night of Kings). The traditional galette is shared.

  10–13. The annual winter soldes (sales), at all stores.

  17–21. Fashion Week: Men’s.

  21–25. Fashion Week: Haute Couture.

  FEBRUARY

  16–25. Chinese New Year. Parades in the thirteenth arrondissement.

  27–March 6. Fashion Week Fall/Winter.

  MARCH

  Fashion Week Fall/Winter continues.

  16–19. Salon du Livre, publishers’ trade fair.

  APRIL

  Le Mois de la Photo (Month of Photography).

  8. Paris Marathon.

  11–14. Salon International du Livre Rare (rare book fair), Grand Palais.

  MAY

  19. Nuit des Musées (Night of Museums). Many Paris museums stay open late.

  27–June 10. French Open tennis championship, Stade Roland-Garros.

  JUNE

  French Open continues.

  21. Fête de la Musique. Amateur and professional musicians perform in public all night.

  20–24. Fashion Week: Men’s.

  30. La Marche des Fiertés LGBT (LGBT pride march).

  JULY

  1–4. Fête du Cinéma. Reduced prices at participating cinemas.

  1–5. Fashion Week: Haute Couture.

  6. Paris Plages open (until September).

  14. Bastille Day. France’s national day, celebrated with a military parade down the Champs-Élysées and fireworks at night.

  29. Climax of the Tour de France bicycle race. Final sprint down Champs-Élyseés.

  AUGUST

  Paris Plages remain open.

  Outdoor film screenings at La Villette.

  SEPTEMBER

  8–16. Design Week.

  16–17. Journées du Patrimoine. Open houses at various historic sites.

  23–24. Fête des Jardins. Visits to private gardens.

  OCTOBER

  6. Nuit Blanche. Shops and cafés stay open all night. The mayor welcomes visitors to Hôtel de Ville.

  11–14. Vendange of Montmartre vineyard. Montmartre Wine Festival.

  19–22. FIAC (art fair for professional art dealers and gallerists), Grand Palais.

  28–November 1. Salon du Chocolat.

  NOVEMBER

  15. Opening of the ski season at certain resorts.

  DECEMBER

  2. Opening of the ski season at certain resorts.

  First weekend, through February or March. Ice skating at Hôtel de Ville and other venues.

  Acknowledgments

  MY THANKS TO MY EDITOR, PETER HUBBARD, WHOSE IDEA THIS was; to Nick Amphlett, and to everyone at Harper Perennial who helped bring this book and many others to a successful completion. Also to my agent, Jonathan Lloyd of Curtis Brown; to my wife, Marie-Dominique, and daughter, Louise; to Neil Hornick for his reminiscences of busking around Europe, Ann Mah for permission to quote from her blog, and Janice Battiste, for her indispensable ability to retain her sanity and sense of humor when all about are losing theirs.

  Photography and Art Credits

  ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS.

  Page 76. Original document dated Fructidor 8, Year 11. Author’s collection.

  Page 110. Khan, Yaseen. Les Feuilles mortes. Author’s collection.

  Index

  The pagination of this digital edition does not match the print edition from which the index was created. To locate a specific entry, please use your ebook reader’s search tools.

  Page references in italics refer to illustrations.

  Adams, John Quincy, 181

  Aérosol, Jef, 161

  À la recherche du temps perdu, or In Search of Lost Time (Proust), 11, 244

  Allen, Woody, 32, 269

  Amalric, Mathieu, 32

  Amélie, 229

  American in Paris, An, 32

  “America the Beautiful,” xvi

  L’ami du peuple, 143

  Amuse-Gueules, Les, 271

  anarchist impulse:

  Commune of 1871 and, 160, 197–98, 217, 225

  surrealists and, 192

  anonymity, freedom equated with, 139–40

  anticipation, satisfaction sharpened by, 252

  antiquaires, 220, 222

  Apollinaire, Guillaume, 31–32, 104, 272

  apples:

  as Chirac’s emblem, 254, 255, 256

  EU policies and, 254–56

  L’Après-midi d’un faune, 203

  April in Paris (film), 124

  “April in Paris” (song), 121–26

  April in Paris, a melancholy vision of (Gorguet), 123

  Aragon, Louis, 218, 269, 274

  Arbeau, Thoinot (pen name of Jehan Tabourot), 127–28

  Arc de Triomphe, xv, xvi, 276

  Auber, Brigitte, 11

  Aufray, Hugues, 463

  August, heat of, 13–14, 15, 136–40

  Australia, 225

  Christmas in, 24–25

  filmmakers and intellectuals in, 37–42

  reverence for lost British Empire in, 25

  seasonal variation in, 23–24

  sense of inferiority, or “cultural cringe,” in, 36–38

  Southerly Buster in, 238

  autumn, 109, 285

  Lafitte’s image for Messidor, 259, 260

  poems about, 259–61

  autumnal equinox, as first day of Republican year, 107–8

  “Autumn in New York,” 122

  autumn leaves:

  allowed to accumulate, 112

  on floor of La Souris Verte, 113, 114

  Avignon festival, 67

  Aznavour, Charles, 13–14

  Baker, Josephine, 174, 205

  Bakst, Léon, 203

  Baldwin, James, 270

  Balladur, Édouard, 256

  Ballantine, Poe, 23–24

  Ballard, J. G., 188, 190–91, 192–93

  Ballard, Mary, 191

  Ballets Russes, 200, 201–6

  bals and bals musettes, 139–40

  Bana, Eric, 32

  Barbarella, 189, 190

  Barenboim, Daniel, 211

  Barnes, Djuna, 161

  Barnes, Julian, 88

  Bashō, 103

  Basie, Count, 279

  Bastille, 68, 73, 166, 207–8

  “Bateau ivre, Le,” or “The Drunken Boat” (Rimbaud), 160–62, 163

  bateaux mouches, 32, 55

  Bates, Katharine Lee, xvi

  Baxter, L
ouise (daughter), 2, 7, 50, 52, 57, 170, 237

  Beaujolais nouveau, 108, 114–16

  Beauvoir, Simone de, 271

  Beethoven, Ludwig van, 211

  Belle Aurore, La, 30

  Benois, Alexandre, 203

  Bérard, Christian, 286–87

  Bernardini, Alain, 173

  Bernardini, Micheline, 173, 175

  Biennais, Martin-Guillaume, 179

  bikini, first, 173, 175

  blackberries, 183

  Bleak House (Dickens), 184

  Blonde Venue, 38, 39

  Boot, Das, 277

  Borges, Jorge Luis, 5

  Borodin, Alexander, 203

  Bourbon monarchy, 75, 95

  Bowles, Paul, 116

  Brando, Marlon, 32

  Brassaï (Gyula Halász), 269

  Breton, André, 19–20, 192, 218, 236

  brocantes (secondhand markets), 219–26, 221

  Brooke, Rupert, 46

  Browning, Robert, 126

  Bruant, Aristide, 150

  Brueghel, Pieter, 6

  Bruins, Jan Willem, 161, 163

  Brumaire, 46, 119, 181, 217

  Buckingham Palace, 69

  Buffon, Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de, 130–32

  Burgh brothers, 171

  buskers, 146–52, 148, 149, 235

  auditions and permits for, 150

  foreigners as, 147–49, 149, 151–52

  Parisians as, 149–50

  risks faced by, 150–51

  cadenas d’amour (love locks), 31

  Caesar, Julius, 77, 105

  cafard, 137, 191

  Café de la Mairie, 161

  Café des Deux Moulins, 229

  cafés, 124, 147, 228, 270

  bals at, 139–40

  Caflisch, Chasper, 245–46

  calendars:

  naming of children and, 129, 134

  pack of playing cards serving purpose of, 128–29

  Republican, see Calendrier républicain

  solar, proposed by Comte, 198–99

  see also Gregorian calendar

  Calendrier républicain (Republican calendar), 10, 13, 46–47, 76–83, 105–8, 129–35, 142–43, 153–57, 180, 190, 217

  abolishment of, 186

  adopted by Convention, 143

  almanac function of, 129

  commission convened to explore options for, 77–83, 105–6

  Cubières’s ode in celebration of, 143

  day left over at end of each year in, 119

  day names in, 107

  first day of year in, 107–8

  holidays in, 119–20, 182–85

  impetus for, 46, 76–77

  Lafitte’s illustrations for, 154–57, 158, 181, 215, 259, 260

  metric system imposed on, 106–7, 117

  mocked outside France, 181

  month names in, 118–19, 201, 263

  naming of children and, 134

  “The new Republic rewrites the calendar,” 156

  plant and animal names in, 130–34, 214–15

  poets, musicians, and artists seizing on nature imagery of, 258–64

  purged of religious doctrine and lingering church influence, 118, 198, 237

  restoration of, during Commune, 198

  transposing dates between Gregorian calendar and, 185

  unpopularity of, 134–35, 181

  Callaghan, Harry, 222–26

  Calle, Sophie, 32–34, 33

  Camus, Albert, 271

  Canal Saint-Martin, 175–78

  Candide (Voltaire), 133

  canicule, le (dog days), 14

  Canterbury Tales, The (Chaucer), 201

  Caron, Leslie, 32

  Carrefour (crossroads) de l’Odéon, 288–91, 290

  Carter, Jimmy, 8

  Cassidy, Eva, 262

  Catacombs, 75, 180

  Céline, 46

  Centre des Finances Publiques (tax office), 159, 160–61

  Centre Pompidou, 235

  Chamade, La (Sagan), 284

  Champagne, 154, 237, 249

  Champs-Élysées, 208, 275

  under wheat, xiv–xvii, xv

  Chandler, Raymond, 238, 270

  “Chanson d’automne,” or “Autumn Song” (Verlaine), 261, 281–82

  Charade, 32

  Charente, 86, 136, 252, 277, 285–86

  Charnay, Geoffroy de, 35

  Chaucer, William, 201

  Chesterton, G. K., 162–63

  chestnut flowers, as first sign of spring, 125

  chestnut sellers, 109, 116

  Chevalier, Maurice, 145

  chineurs, 220–26

  Chirac, Jacques, 253–54, 255, 256

  Christmas, 44

  in Australia, 24–25

  in Richebourg, Île-de-France, 1–3, 6–7

  Christopher, John, 187

  Christopher, Saint, 33

  church:

  Calendrier républicain purged of lingering influence of, 118, 198, 237

  confiscation of property of, 197

  decline of, 7

  First Estate and, 2

  imprisonment of clergy and, 117–18

  Michaelmas and Martinmas and, 182

  restored as official institution, 186

  Churchill, Winston, 275

  Cimitière de Montmartre, 179

  Cimitière des Errancis, 180

  Citizens (Schama), 80, 82

  City of Paris Fine Arts Museum, 99

  Civil War, U.S., 73

  Clair, René, 149

  Clarke, Arthur C., 41

  Club des Cordeliers, 82, 141, 144

  Cocaine Nights (Ballard), 191

  Coco soft-drink sellers, 137, 138

  Cocteau, Jean, 200, 202, 202, 206, 286, 287

  Code Napoléon, 186

  Cohen, Leonard, 249–50

  Cohn-Bendit, Daniel, 225

  Comédie-Italienne, 68

  “coming out” rituals, 69–70

  Committee of Public Safety, 143, 144, 167

  Commune (1871), 160, 197–98, 217, 225

  Communists, 216

  Compagnie Française des Indes Orientales, 142, 144, 166

  Compot or Manual Calendar, The (Tabourot), 128

  Comte, Auguste, 198–99

  Conciergerie, 18

  Convention, 80, 82, 106, 118, 129, 141, 142, 143, 144, 154, 166–167, 168–69

  Corday, Charlotte, 143, 164

  Cordeliers Club, 82, 141, 144

  Count of Monte Cristo, The (Dumas), 196

  Cour du Commerce Saint-André, 75

  Crane, Hart, 32, 270

  Crazy Horse Saloon, 173

  Crillon, Hôtel de, 45

  crocodiles, in Canal Saint-Martin, 176–78

  Cruikshank, George, 183, 184

  Crusades, 162

  Crystal World, The (Ballard), 188

  Cubières, Michel de, 143

  Curie, Marie and Pierre, 60

  Dadaists, 218

  D’Annunzio, Gabriele, 244

  Danton, Georges, 78–80, 79, 118, 142, 143, 165, 166–67, 225, 264, 291

  burial of, 180

  death of, 168–69

  Fabre as protégé of, 78, 80, 82–83, 142, 167

  statue of, 73–75

  Darin, Bobby, 262–63

  date palms, moved indoors for winter, 111–12

  David, Jacques-Louis, 215

  Davis, Miles, 271

  Day, Doris, 124

  Day for Night, 59

  Debord, Guy, 35

  Debucourt, Philibert-Louis, 155

  Debussy, Claude, 203

  débutantes, 69–70

  décades (weeks), 107, 182

  naming of, 130, 133

  “Deck of Cards, The,” 128

  Decroux, Étienne, 235

  Delvaux, Paul, 192

  demi-décades (former fortnight), naming of, 130, 133

  Denis, Saint, 230, 233

  Desailly, Jean, 18

  Desmoulins, Camille, 83, 167–68, 180, 29
1

  Desremond, Catherine (Catiche), 93–94

  Diaghilev, Sergei, 201–6

  Dickens, Charles, 72–73, 165, 184, 195

  Dietrich, Marlene, 38, 39

  Dior, Christian, Atelier, 258

  Directoire, 180, 185

  Divorce, Le (Johnson), 12–13

  Dorade, 171

  Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan, 187

  Dreyfus, Alfred, 50, 51

  Drought, The (Ballard), 188

  Drowned World, The (Ballard), 188

  Dukakis, Michael, xvi

  Duke, Vernon, 122–24, 125, 126

  Dumas, Alexandre, 60, 196

  Duse, Eleanora, 244, 246

  East India Company, 142, 144, 166

  Eco, Umberto, 38–42, 40, 58, 59, 61

  École Militaire, 50

  Einstein, Albert, 49

  Eleanore, the crocodile of Pont Neuf, 177–78

  Elementary Particles (Houellebecq), 87

  Elington, Duke, 279

  Eliot, T. S., 191, 216

  Elizabeth, queen of England, 25

  Ellis, George, 181

  Élysée, 75

  Ernestine, 68

  Escoffier, Auguste, 218

  euro, 73

  Europe, James Reese, 206

  European Union (EU), 211, 254–56

  événements de ’68, les, 208, 217, 224–26

  Everyone Says I Love You, 32

  existentialism, 271

  Exposition Universelle (1900), 99

  Fabre d’Églantine, Philippe-François-Nazaire, 47, 74, 80–83, 81, 91–97, 116, 118, 141–44, 190, 197, 291, 292

  burial of, 180

  Calendrier républicain and, 13, 78, 105–8, 117, 120, 129–30, 133–35, 142–43, 154, 157, 181, 185, 186, 198, 201, 214–15, 258, 264

  childhood and education of, 92

  as Danton’s protégé, 78, 80, 82–83, 142, 167

  death of, 164, 167, 168

  debts of, 94, 95, 96–97

  family background of, 91–92

  female conquests of, 93–94, 95

  golden rose as emblem of, 80–82, 81, 95, 111, 210, 214

  Greuze’s portrait of, 141–42

  “Il pleut, bergère” written by, 95–96, 168, 292

  shady business deals of, 142, 144, 166

  street named for, 218

  theater career of, 78, 92–94, 95

  Farewell to Arms, A (Hemingway), 4

  farmers:

  Calendrier républicain and, 107–8, 118, 129, 130, 153–54, 181–85

  influence of, 2

  rural decline and, 6–7

  wheat in Champs-Élysées and, xiv–xvii, xv

  Faulks, Sebastian, 277

  “Fern Hill” (Thomas), 17

  Fête de la Révolution, La, 119

  Fête de la Vertu, La, 119

  Fête de l’Opinion, La, 120

  Fête des Récompenses, La, 119

  Fête du Génie, La, 119

 

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