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A Year in Paris

Page 21

by John Baxter


  Fête du Travail, La, 119

  “Feuilles mortes, Les” (dead leaves), 262

  “Feuilles mortes, Les,” or “the dead leaves,” (Prévert), 110

  fèves (ceramic figures in galettes), 237–38

  filmmakers, 32, 37–38, 233, 269, 277, 279

  First Empire, 186

  First Estate (church), 2

  Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 109

  Fitzgerald, Zelda, 204–5

  Floréal, 119, 133, 214–15, 217

  Fokine, Michel, 204, 206

  Folies Bergère de Paris, 145

  food:

  seasonality and, 20, 23, 250–52, 285

  shopping for, in Paris vs. New York, 250–52

  Foucault, Léon, pendulum of, 61–63, 62, 120, 211, 292

  Foucault’s Pendulum (Eco), 59, 61

  franc, adoption of, 71

  Franco-Prussian War, 160, 197–98

  Free French government, 208

  Freud, Sigmund, 264

  Frimaire, 119, 181

  Fructidor, 46, 119

  Gaillot, Jacques, 232–33

  galette des rois (kings’ cake), 237

  Galileo, 62

  Gallant, Mavis, 137–39, 140

  Gamay grapes, 108, 115

  Garbo, Greta, 245–48, 247, 256

  Gaulle, Charles de, 75, 208–9, 225, 275, 277

  Gee, Oliver, 175–78

  geese, 182–83

  Gehry, Frank, 32–34, 33

  Gelenter, Terrance, 265–68, 267, 274

  Germinal, 119, 201

  Germinal (Zola), 262

  Giscard d’Estaing, Valéry, 44–45, 256

  Godin-Lesage, Marie Nicole, 94

  “God Save the Queen,” 25

  Goering, Hermann, 279

  Goodman, Benny, 282

  Gopnik, Adam, 26

  graffiti artists, 161

  Grand Palais (Great Palace), 28, 98–99

  Grandpré, Adrian de, 47, 231–34

  Grant, Cary, 11, 32

  grape harvest, or vendange, 108, 119

  Great Barrier Reef, 37, 39

  Great Gatsby, The (Fitzgerald), 21

  Gréco, Juliette, 271

  Greene, Graham, 270

  Gregorian calendar, 77, 105, 118, 127–28

  farmers relationship to church and, 181–82

  naming of children and, 129

  reintroduction of, 186

  transposing dates between Calendrier républicain and, 185

  Gregory XIII, Pope, 77, 105

  Greuze, Jean-Baptiste, 141–42

  grunion, 121

  Guillaume de Lorris, 209

  guillotine, 69, 73, 75, 76, 106, 142, 154, 164, 168, 169, 195

  Guimard, Hector, 230

  Guyton de Morveau, Louis-Bernard, 77

  haiku, 102–4

  Halles, Les, 283

  Hanin, Roger, 211

  Harburg, E. Y. “Yip,” 122–24, 125

  Hardy, Thomas, 258–59

  Harlem Hellfighters, 206

  Harris, Rolf, 24

  harvests, 119, 182, 185, 216, 254, 259, 262, 282

  Beaujolais nouveau and, 108, 114–15

  first day of Republican year and, 107–8

  haussement d’épaules, un, 100

  Hawn, Goldie, 32

  Hemingway, Ernest, 4, 140, 160

  Hemingway, Hadley, 140

  Hemingway, Pauline, 160

  Henry IV, 18, 34

  Henry V (Shakespeare), 216

  Henry VIII, king of England, 150

  Hepburn, Audrey, 32

  Heraclitus, 104

  Hitchcock, Alfred, 11, 140, 243

  Hitler, Adolf, 275, 276, 279

  HLMs (habitation à loyer modéré), 220

  holidays, 65–67

  in Calendrier républicain, 119–20, 182–85

  traditional religious feasts, 182

  “Home-Thoughts” (Browning), 126

  Honest Man’s Almanac (Maréchal), 107

  Hornick, Neil, and the Sidewalkers, 149

  Hôtel des Invalides, 75

  hot weather, 13–14, 15, 136–40

  Houellebecq, Michel, 87–88, 90

  houseboats on the Seine, 30, 55

  Hugo, Victor, 60, 150, 197

  hunting, 67, 69

  hurricanes, 53–57

  driving to Richebourg during, 54–57

  medieval engraving of, 56

  Hurricane Xynthia, 136

  Île aux Juifs (Jews’ Island), 35

  Île de la Cité, 16–21, 17, 34, 53–54

  Île de Ré, 85–90

  “Il pleut, bergère” (It’s raining, shepherdess), 95–96, 168, 292

  impressionists, 104

  L’Inconnue de la Seine, or the Unknown Girl of the Seine, 35

  “In My Craft or Sullen Art” (Thomas), 270

  Inquisition, 62

  Isaure, Clémence, 82, 95, 110–11

  Jacobins, 143

  Jacques, Saint, festival of, 227–34, 232

  Jardin du Roi (Royal Garden), 130–32

  Jardins du Luxembourg, 91, 110–11, 112, 151, 159, 163

  Jaurès, Jean, 211

  java (jigging dance), 140

  jazz, 270–71, 276, 279

  Jefferies, Richard, 187

  Jefferson, Thomas, 132

  John of Austria, Don, 162

  Johnson, Diane, 13

  Johnston, George, 44

  Jude, Saint, 233

  Jung, Karl, 264

  kangaroos, 243–44, 246

  Keats, John, 259–60

  Kelly, Gene, 32, 145

  Kelly, Grace, 11

  Khan, Yaseen, 110, 111, 116

  Kipling, Rudyard, 208

  Knights Templar, 35

  Kolberg, 279

  Kosma, Joseph, 262

  Laerdal, Asmund, 35

  Lafayette, Marquis de, 83

  Lafitte, Louis, 154–57, 158, 181, 215, 259, 260

  La Fontaine, Jean de, 291–92

  Lagrange, Louis, 77–78

  Lang, Jack, 50, 211

  Lange, Jessica, 236

  La Pallice submarine base, 277, 281

  Larche, François-Raoul, 100–102, 102, 104

  La Rochelle, Nazi occupation of, 276–82, 278

  Last Tango in Paris, 32

  Laure et Pétrarque, 95

  Lawrence, T. E., 7

  Leda and the swan, 157, 158

  Lefrançois de Lalande, Joseph Jérôme, 77

  legal system, 186

  Le Havre, 17–18

  Leigh, Vivien, 151

  Leopold II of Belgium, 99

  “Lepanto” (Chesterton), 162–63

  liberation of Paris (1944), 208

  Life of Pi, 174

  lily of the valley, 215

  literary walks, 241–42

  Litscher, Hans Peter, and his Litscheriade, 242–48, 243

  London Times, 185

  Lost Generation, 228

  Louis XIV, 207, 210

  Louis XVI, xvi, 18, 68–69, 76, 82, 96–97, 166

  Louvre, 28, 180

  Lucas, George, 48

  Lunceford, Jimmie, 279

  Luxembourg Garden, see Jardins de Luxembourg

  lycée system, 186

  “Lydia the Tattooed Lady,” 122, 124

  Macbeth (Shakespeare), 256

  MacLeish, Archibald, 4

  Mah, Ann, 285

  Maison Maire, 218

  Mallory, George, 7

  Malraux, André, 275

  Manceron, Claude, 211

  Manhattan, author’s visit to, 249–52

  Marais, 176–77, 272–74

  Marat, Jean-Paul, 143–44, 164, 291

  Marceau, Marcel, 235

  Maréchal, Pierre-Sylvain, 107

  Marianne (spirit of the revolution), 155

  Marie Antoinette, 68, 69, 76, 96, 164, 210

  markets, business hours of, 67

  Marlowe, Christopher, 92

  Marseillaise, 71, 73, 94

  Martinmas, 182
, 185

  May, disasters that took place in, 216–17

  May Day, 216, 219

  Mazet-Delpeuch, Danièle, 257

  measurement systems:

  metric, 106–7

  physical circumstances and, 49

  Méditerranée, La, 286–87

  “Mer, La” (the sea), 262–63

  Messidor, 119, 259, 260

  “Messidor” (Miaux), 282

  Métivet, Lucien, 217

  metric system, 154

  Calendrier républicain and, 106–7, 117

  Miaux, Albert, 281–82

  Michaelmas, 182–84, 184

  Michel, Louise, 225

  Midnight in Paris, 269

  Miller, Henry, 161, 269

  mimes, 235–38, 239

  Minosuke, Yamada, 100–104

  Mirror, The (Delvaux), 192, 193

  Misérables, Les (Hugo), 197

  Mistral, 236–39, 239, 240

  Mitchell, David, 24

  Mittelberg, Louis, 51

  Mitterand, François, 208–9, 210–13, 212, 253, 254, 256–57

  Moati, Serge, 211

  Molay, Jacques de, 35

  Molière, 80, 92

  Monet, Claude, 104

  Monge, Gaspard, 77

  Monk, Thelonious, 271

  Montagnards, 143

  Montaud, Yves, 18–19

  Montel, Marie-Dominique (wife), 2, 17, 22, 43–44, 47, 54–55, 60, 61, 63, 64–67, 84–87, 90, 170, 177, 223, 229, 277, 281, 290–91

  month names, in Republican calendar, 118–19, 201, 263

  Montmartre, 112–16, 179, 197–98, 228–31, 269

  moue (pronunciation), 99, 100

  Moulin, Jean, 60, 211

  muguet (lily of the valley), 215

  Munich, 32

  Musée de Luxembourg, 111–12

  Musée d’Orsay, 99

  Nadja (Breton), 19, 20

  Name of the Rose, The (Eco), 40–41

  naming of children, 129, 134, 199

  Napoléon Bonaparte, xvi, 1, 50, 75, 134, 171, 179, 180, 185–86, 198, 216, 217, 279

  Napoléon III, Emperor, 64

  National Guard, 95

  Neuilly, childbirthing facility in, 64–65

  Newby, Eric, 8

  “New York minute,” 49

  nightwalkers, see noctambules

  Nijinsky, Vaslav, 200, 203, 204, 206

  Nin, Anaïs, 30

  Nivôse, 119, 133–34

  noctambules (nightwalkers), 268–74

  jazz and, 270–71

  Paris inconvenient for, 269–70

  sex clubs and, 272–74

  Notre Dame, 18

  Notre Dame de Paris (Hugo), 150

  Nuit des Rois (Night of Kings), 237

  occupation (1940–44):

  of Paris, 171, 208, 275–76, 277

  of southwest France, 276–82, 278

  Occupation (1940–1945): Siège de La Rochelle (Miaux), 280–82

  O’Day, Bob and Deidre, 227–31

  Opéra, 28

  Orangerie, 112

  Orchestre de Paris, 211

  Orczy, Baroness, 165, 195–97

  ortolans, 257

  Paine, Thomas, 166

  Palais de Justice, 18, 21

  Panthéon, 60–63

  Foucault’s pendulum at, 61–63, 62, 211

  Mitterand at, 210–13, 212

  Parade, 206

  “Paris at Night” (Prévert), 272

  “Paris au mois d’août,” or “Paris in the Month of August,” 13–14

  Paris plage (Paris beach), 170

  Parker, Charlie “Bird,” 271

  Parker, Dorothy, 125–26, 210

  past:

  French deeply respectful of, 26

  French penchant for dwelling in, 49–50

  patrimoine, le (“the heritage”—the accumulated glory of France), 26, 32

  Péret, Benjamin, 218

  Périphérique (ring road enclosing Paris), 55–56

  Persian unit of distance, 49

  Pétain, Marshal Philippe, 276

  Peter, Paul and Mary, 227

  Petit Palais (Little Palace), 98–99

  pet shops, 177

  phantom of the Opéra, legend of, 28

  Piaf, Édith, 149, 150

  Picasso, Pablo, 206

  Picpus convent, 73, 179, 218

  pigs, butchering of, 185

  pilgrimages, 85

  Pingré, Alexandre Guy, 77

  Piscine Deligny, 171–73, 172

  Piscine Molitor, 173–74, 174

  piscines (swimming pools), 170–74, 172, 174

  Place Dauphine, 18–20, 53–54

  Place de la Concorde (formerly Place de la Révolution), 43, 45, 164, 168, 171

  Place des Abbesses, 230

  Place Saint-Sulpice, 159, 163

  Platform (Houellebecq), 87–88, 90

  Pluviôse, 119, 146, 181

  politics, showmanship in, 207–13

  Pompidou, Georges, 254

  Pont Alexandre III, 159

  Pont d’Alma, 27, 29

  Pont de Bir-Hakeim, 32

  Pont des Arts, 31

  Pont d’Iéna, 55

  Pont du Garigliano, Calle and Gehry’s phone booth on, 32–34, 33

  Pont Neuf, 19, 34–35, 170

  Eleanore, the crocodile of, 177–78

  Poulenc, Francis, 206

  Prairial, 119, 157

  Préjean, Albert, 149

  Prévert, Jacques, 110, 262, 272, 274

  “Prima Belladonna” (Ballard), 191

  Prin, Alice (aka Kiki), 218

  Prix de Rome, 154–55

  Proud Fool, The (Fabre), 142

  Proudhon, Sophie, 93

  Proust, Marcel, 11, 171, 244

  Queen Charlotte’s Ball, 69

  Raiders of the Lost Ark, 277

  rain, 145–47, 151–52

  “Singin’ in the Rain” and, 145, 146–47

  see also storms

  Ray, Man, 159–60, 161, 218, 222

  Reagan, Ronald, 8

  Réard, Louis, 173

  Rear Window, 140

  Récamier, Juliette, 215

  Reformation, 118

  Republican calendar, see Calendrier républicain

  Resistance, 209, 211, 277

  restaurants, seasonality and supplies delivered to, 20

  Resusci Anne, 35

  revolution of 1789, 2, 61, 68–69, 71–75, 94, 97, 120, 180, 198, 216, 225

  achievements of, 71–72

  burials after, 179–80

  calendar reform and, see Calendrier républicain

  Catholic clergy imprisoned in, 117–18

  date reset after, 76

  ended by Napoléon’s coup, 185–86

  fears of invasion by Catholic Austria and Italy after, 117

  gory aftermath of, 72–73, 74, 75, 76, 117–18, 164–69

  later uprisings and, 197–98

  mocked by Fabre, 142

  novels, plays, and musical works inspired by, 194–97

  storming of Bastille in, 68, 73, 207–8

  Revue Nègre, 205

  Reynolds, Debbie, 145

  Richebourg, Île-de-France:

  checking on in-laws’ house in, during storm, 54–57

  Christmas Day in, 1–3, 6–9

  rural decline and, 6–7

  Rictus, Jehan, 150

  Rimbaud, Arthur, 160–62, 163

  Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai, 203

  Robespierre, Maximilien de, 73, 74, 75, 76, 78, 82, 142, 143, 144, 165, 186, 217, 218, 264

  burial of, 180

  the Terror and, 165, 167, 168–69

  “Roman de la rose,” or “The Romance of the Rose” (Guillaume de Lorris), 209

  Romme, Charles-Gilbert, 78, 143, 180

  rose:

  Floréal associated with, 214–15

  golden, as Fabre’s emblem, 80–82, 81, 95, 111, 210, 214

  Mitterand’s use of symbology of, 209, 210–13, 212, 254

&
nbsp; as symbol of love, 209–10

  Rouch, Jean, 38, 41

  Rouget de Lisle, Claude Joseph, 94

  Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 60, 132

  rue de l’Odéon, 73–75, 106, 155, 289

  rue Férou, 159–61

  rural decline, 6–7

  Ruskin, John, 263–64

  Russian Revolution, 73

  Sacre du printemps, Le (The Rite of Spring), 201–6, 202

  Sade, Marquis de, 166, 190, 192

  Sagan, Françoise, 284

  Sainte-Chapelle, 18, 21

  Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de, 60, 253

  Saint-Gerrmain-des Prés, 110, 111

  Saint-Just, Louis de, 165, 180

  Saint-Sulpice, Church of, 58

  sanitation, 20, 43

  sans-culottes, les (those without pants), 82, 106, 119

  Sardou, Victorien, 218

  Sartre, Jean-Paul, 271

  Scarlet Pimpernel (Orczy), 165, 194, 195–97

  Schama, Simon, 80, 82

  Schmidt, Tobias, 75

  Schneider, Maria, 32

  Schoelcher, Victor, 211

  Schultz-Köhn, Dietrich, 276, 282

  science fiction, 187–92, 236, 270

  Scott, Robert Falcon, 7

  Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), 265–68

  seasonality:

  art of living in France and, 283–86

  food and, 20, 23, 250–52, 285

  and symbolism of nature in works of poets, musicians, and artists, 258–64

  seawater, thalassotherapy and, 84–90

  Second Estate (aristocracy), 2

  Seine, 27–35, 116, 235

  bateaux mouches (excursion boats) on, 32, 55

  bridges over, 31–35

  crocodile living in, 177–78

  floodwaters of, 27–31, 29

  houseboats on, 30, 55

  island in, see Île de la Cité

  Paris plage (Paris beach) along bank of, 170

  piscines (swimming pools) in, 170–74, 172, 174

  upstream, unconfined by stone walls, 30

  sex clubs, 272–74

  Shakespeare, William, 92, 215, 216, 256

  Shakespeare & Company, 31

  Shaw, Irwin, 286–87

  Sidewalks of London (also known as Saint Martin’s Lane), 151

  Sieyès, Abbé, 2

  Simon, Louis-Victor, 95

  “Singin’ in the Rain,” 145, 146–47

  Sirius, the Dog Star, 14

  “Six White Boomers,” 24

  skiing season, 65–66, 67

  Slate, 137–39

  snails, gathering and cooking, 22–23

  social acceptance in France, 44–47

  socialists, 210, 216

  Socrates, 285

  solar calendar, proposed by Comte, 198–99

  Something Wholesale (Newby), 8

  Soupault, Philippe, 269

  Souris Verte, La, or The Green Mouse, 112–14, 113, 116

  Sous les toits de Paris, or Under the Roofs of Paris, 149

  Southern, Ann, 145

  Soviet Russia, calendar reform in, 199

  Spectre de la rose, Le, 200, 203, 204

  Spielberg, Steven, 32, 192

  spring, arrival of, 200–201

 

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