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The Secret History of Food

Page 26

by Matt Siegel

female genital mutilation, 46

  feminists, 45–46

  fennel, 51

  fermented foods, 171

  Fernández-Armesto, Felipe, 58

  fertilizers, 63, 64, 67, 148n

  figs, 25, 135

  fire, 12–13, 60

  fireworks, 66

  fish, 21–23, 33, 61n, 64, 130, 133, 135, 178, 187–90

  chemicals in, 187

  mislabeling of, 188–90, 192

  salted, 128

  trash, 182

  fish allergies, 65

  fishing nets, 22

  fish scales, 133

  Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, 169

  Flamin’ Hot Mac n’ Cheetos, 151

  flea-wort sap, 51

  flies, 76–77, 89

  Florida, 89

  flounder, 22

  flour, 39–40

  refined white vs. whole wheat, 42–43

  flower nectar, 80

  food

  additives and, 190–92

  allergies and, 65

  appearance of, 157–58

  beliefs and, 178

  choice and, 3–4, 142–47, 149–61

  cooking and, 12

  distribution of, 14

  labeling, 65, 87–89, 96, 186–91

  preservation of, 93, 128, 170–71

  production of, 140

  quality of, 57

  as remedy, 47

  safety and, 10–11, 11n

  shelf life of, 9

  soft, energy-efficient, 11

  war and, 104–10, 116–17

  waste and, 158

  Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 77, 80, 89, 96–97, 185–86

  food coloring, 132

  food delivery apps, 140

  food deserts, 141

  food porn, 157

  food stylists, 157–58

  forced labor, 14

  forks, 11, 18–19

  foulbrood epidemics, 88

  Fourth of July cookouts, 33

  France, 6, 13, 92, 105, 126, 180

  ice cream and, 99–100

  Julia Child and, 167n

  pate and, 31

  peasant breads, 129

  potatoes and, 180

  slavery outlawed by, 95

  vanilla industry and, 95

  WW I and, 107, 109

  Frank, Robert, 141

  Franklin, Benjamin, 24, 32–33, 73

  Freeman, Carrie Packwood, 145

  freezer burn, 66

  French bulldog, 61

  French fries, 50, 142–43, 159, 180

  French proverbs, 139

  French toast, 133, 185

  French vanilla, 97n, 175

  Freon, 109

  fried foods, 65

  Friedrich Wilhelm I, King of Prussia, 180

  frogs, 51

  Froot Loops, 49

  Frosted Flakes, 38, 49

  Frosted Mini-Wheats, 49

  frozen foods, 65

  fruit flies, 5

  fruit juice, 190

  fruit pits, 103

  fruits, 7, 10, 21–22, 25, 39, 140–41

  appearance of, 158

  poison and, 181

  Fruity Pebbles, 36n, 50, 150–51

  Frumenty, 24n

  fudge, mock, 113n

  fuel, 63–64, 66

  Funderburg, Anne Cooper, 99, 101

  fungicides, 63

  funguses, 165

  Funny Jungleland Moving Pictures Book, 49

  gabgu bird egg, 81n

  gall, 82

  game, 21, 51, 128

  García Márquez, Gabriel, 115

  garlic, 4, 51

  geese, 20, 123

  pie, 19

  tongues, 51

  General Hospital (TV show), 68

  General Mills, 50

  genetic preferences, 6–7, 10

  genitals, 94, 170

  Germany, 6, 31, 75, 106, 134, 179

  WW I and, 107, 109–10

  Giant Flaked Corn, 48

  giblet pie, 19

  gin, 65

  ginger, 45, 135

  gingerbread latte, 148

  ginger omelettes, 51

  ginseng, 51n

  Gladwell, Malcolm, 152–53

  glitter, edible, 150

  Glossographia (Blound), 75

  glucose oxidase, 81

  gluten-free products, 65

  gluttony, 122, 140

  goats, 13

  goat’s milk, 84

  goat’s testicle, 51

  gochujang, 169

  Goldberger, Joseph, 71

  Golden Age, 124

  Goldenrod, 31

  goldfish-swallowing, 173

  Goldman, Jason G., 163

  Good Humor Bar, 111–12

  Goulding, Harold, 116

  Graham, Sylvester, 39–42, 51–52

  graham crackers, 39

  Graham flour, 42–43, 50

  Grahamites, 41

  granola, 47

  Granose, 47

  granula, 43, 47, 50

  grapefruit, 7

  Grape-Nuts, 48, 50

  grapes, 51, 77–78, 86, 125

  Great Depression, 102, 178

  Greece, ancient, 52–53, 74, 82–83, 98, 125, 182

  Gregory I, Pope, 127

  grocery stores, 149, 155, 158

  grocery subscription services, 140

  gruel, 43

  Guide into Tongues (Minsheu), 75

  Guillain-Barré syndrome, 183

  Habañero, 165

  haddock, 130, 190

  hake, 130

  halibut, 51, 189

  Halloween, 150

  hallucinogens, 75, 84n, 89

  hamburger buns, 140

  hamburgers, 142, 144, 159, 182

  Hampl, Jeffrey, 69

  Hampl, William, 69

  hamsters, 70

  Handwerker, Nathan, 111–12

  Hansel and Gretel, 134, 136

  Happy Meal, 146

  hare, 21

  hare pie, 18

  hare soup, 51

  haricot beans, 51

  harissa, 169

  Harlan, Jack Rodney, 58

  Harry Potter films, 176

  Harvard University, 173

  harvest festivals, 122–25, 133, 136

  “Having It His Way” (Freeman and Merskin), 145

  health reformers, 38–39, 48, 52

  Healthy Mediterranean-Style Eating Pattern, 184

  Healthy U.S.-Style Eating Pattern, 184

  heart disease, 6

  Heidrun, 84

  Heinz, 151

  hen, 132

  Henisch, Bridget Ann, 127–28

  Henry IV, King of England, 129

  Henry VII, King of England, 190

  herbal supplements, 192

  herbicides, 105

  herbs, bitter, 52

  heron, 129–30

  herpes, 80, 89

  herring, 22, 51, 130

  Herz, Rachel, 159–60

  hickory nuts, 25

  Higginson, Francis, 22, 23

  high-fat diet, 5–6

  Higman, B.W., 59, 159

  Hindi weddings, 74

  History of Cooks and cooking, A (Symons), 160–61

  History of Weapons, A (O’Bryan), 103

  Hitler, Adolf, 74–75, 89

  homblys de roo, 130

  honey, 14, 73–89, 147

  babies and, 75

  counterfeit, 87–89

  crystallization of, 75n, 88

  as embalming fluid, 82

  hallucinogenic, 75, 84n

  mad, 87

  medicinal use of, 80–81

  as preservative, 82

  torture and, 83–84, 89

  toxins and, 84

  unconventional sources and, 86–87

  weights of, 190

  honeybees, 77, 79n, 80, 167n

  Honeycomb cereal, 50

  honeymoon, 75

  Hooters, 145

  Hoover, Herbert, 106–10

  hops, 86

&nbs
p; horse penis, 51

  horseradish, 51

  horses, 21

  Hosford Cereal and Grain Company, 48

  hot dogs, 111–12

  hot sauce, 168, 174

  Howard Johnson’s, 110–11, 114

  human sacrifice, 84n, 89

  humble pie (umble pie), 20, 27

  hunter gatherers, 56–60

  hydrogen peroxide, 81

  hydrolyzed vegetable protein, 65

  Hygienic Food Company, 48

  hyperkeratosis, 69

  iceberg lettuce, 159

  ice cream, 97–102, 106–19, 122, 158

  fat-free, 150, 157

  WW I and, 106, 108–10

  WW II and, 113–14, 116–18

  ice cream bars, 109, 111, 113

  Ice Cream Review, The, 108

  Iceland, 171

  India, 6, 88, 171

  Indonesia, 88, 169,-70

  Industrial Revolution, 57, 61n

  industrial waste, 86

  infanticide, 75

  infants

  honey and, 75, 81–82

  vanilla and, 119

  inherited diet and food preferences, 3–7

  inositol, 65

  insecticide, 63, 77n

  Inside Edition, 189

  Institute of Medicine, 192

  intercropping, 62

  Invasion of the Body Snatchers (film), 72

  Iraq War, 175

  Irish cream, 175

  iron, 191

  Iroquois, 62–63, 68–69

  irrigation, 63–64

  Italy, 18

  Iyengar, Sheena, 154–56

  jackal, gall of, 51

  Jackson, James C., 43, 47

  Jack the Ripper, 46n

  jalapeños, 169, 175

  jams, 155–56

  Japan, 52, 103, 114, 116

  jaw size, 11

  Jefferson, Thomas, 99–100

  Jergenson, Jorg, 116

  Jersey Bran Flakes, 48

  Jesus Christ, 125–27, 133

  Jewish traditions, 52, 74, 84

  Johnny Appleseed, 25

  Johnson, Howard, 91, 110

  Journal of Clinical Oncology, 191

  Journal of Medicine and Science, 17

  Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine, 69–70

  Jungle Book, The (Kipling), 29

  Jurassic Park (film), 63

  Kaczynski, Ted “Unabomber,” 40, 57

  kale, 7

  Kazakhstan, 18

  Kellogg, John Harvey, 43–49, 52, 53

  Kellogg, John L. and Helen, Foundation, 49

  Kellogg, Will “W.K.,” 48–50

  Kellogg, W.K., II, 49

  Kellogg Company, 50, 146

  Corn Flakes, 49

  Honey Smacks, 38n

  Kennett, Lee, 116

  Kerrygold butter, 66

  ketchup, 65, 151

  jalapeño, 175

  KFC, 151

  Kim, Heejung, 148

  kingbird, 32

  Kipling, Rudyard, 29

  Kitchen Confidential (Bourdain), 188

  knives, 11, 13

  koalas, 8

  Korea, 169

  Korn-Kinks, 48

  kosher food, 79–80, 89

  Kyrgyzstan, 18

  lactase, 8

  lactic acid, 171

  lactose intolerance, 8, 37

  Laden, Osama bin, 87

  Ladies’ Guide in Health and Disease (Kellogg), 46

  Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, 133

  lamb pie, 19

  lamb’s testicles, 18

  lamprey, 51, 178

  lamprey pie, 18

  langostino, 189

  lanterns, 124

  lark, 130

  Latin America, 64n

  lattes, seasonal, 148

  Launer, John, 172

  Lawson, John, 22–23

  lead, sugar of (lead acetate), 78, 89

  lead poisoning, 78n, 84n, 88, 179–81, 187, 192

  leeks, 51, 133

  Legionnaires’ disease, 158

  lemon balm, 24n

  lemon juice, 171

  lemons, 25

  Lent, 52, 128, 132–34, 169

  leprosy, 180

  lettuce, 86, 159

  Lewis, Morris, 117

  Lexington, Battle of, 17

  Lexington, USS (carrier), 114

  LGBTQ, 93

  life expectancy, 41

  lima beans, 9

  lime juice, 171

  limes, 25, 86

  Limited Edition Chocolate Frosted Flakes with Spoooky Marshmallows, 49

  Lincoln, Abraham, 28

  ling tail, 130

  listeria, 183

  lizard, powdered, 51

  lobster ravioli, 189

  lobster rolls, 189

  lobsters, 21–22, 189–90

  Lockwood, Jeffrey A., 83

  locust beans, 77

  long pepper, 131, 164n

  Louisiana State University, 86

  LSD, 78n

  Lucky Charms, 50

  Luilekkerland, 134–36

  lust, 50–51

  lysine, 68

  macaroni and cheese, 150

  MacClancy, Jeremy, 50–51, 142–43

  mace, 131

  Macedonia, 70

  mackerel, 51

  Macrae, David, 15

  Madagascar, 94, 95

  maggots, 186

  magic mushrooms, 84n

  magpie, 20

  Malaysia, 88

  malt, 65

  maltodextrin, 65–66

  Mamet, David, 15

  mandrakes, 179

  Manuka honey, 87

  maple syrup, 77

  Mapl-Flake, 48

  maraschino cherries, 86

  marbits, 37

  Mardudjara aboriginals, 173

  marjoram, 51

  Markel, Howard, 43, 47n

  Markus, Hazel Rose, 148

  marshmallow nut sundaes, 28

  marshmallows, 37, 64

  masculinity, 172–73

  Massachusetts Bay Colony, 18n-19n, 25

  masturbation, 39, 41–42, 178

  Matcha powder, 147

  matches, 66

  Mayans, 83, 84n

  Mayflower, 25

  mayonnaise, fat-free, 157

  McBride, Anne E., 157

  McDonald’s, 11, 26, 141–43, 146, 149n, 159–60, 178, 182

  Mead, William Edward, 131

  Mean Genes (Burnham and Phelan), 176

  meat, 133, 184–85. See also specific types

  agriculture and, 57

  animal feed and, 64

  carved, 122

  color and freshness of, 10

  contamination of, 96

  frozen, 66

  health reformers and, 39

  Lent and, 52

  medieval feasts and, 128–30

  preservation of, 128

  raw, 125

  weight of, 190

  WW I and, 108

  Meatless Mondays, 108

  meat sauces, 185

  mercury, 189

  meringue, 131

  Merskin, Debra, 145

  methamphetamine, 63

  meurtrières (murder holes), 103

  Mexico, 65, 94

  mice, 5, 61n

  microorganisms, 80–81

  Middle Ages, 20, 74, 83, 123, 128–38, 150

  Middle East, 77

  Miles, Clement A., 121, 127

  milk, 5, 7–8, 11n, 24, 36–37, 115, 135, 160

  raw, 183

  milk allergies, 7–8, 65, 150n

  milk pudding, 51

  milkshakes, 115, 142

  millwell, 130

  mince pie, 27

  minerals, 43

  minnows, 130

  Minsheu, John, 75

  mint, 4, 86, 132

  mistletoe, 124

  mocha, 147, 175

  molasses, 71

  Monell Chemical Senses Center, 166

  Mongols, 98

 
monkfish, 189, 192

  monosodium glutamate (MSG), 65

  morning glory, 84n

  Morocco, 187

  Morris, Robert, 98–99

  Moskowitz, 152–53, 155

  mothers, pregnancy and lactation and, 3–6

  moths, 61n

  Mötley Crüe, 122

  mountain gorillas, 10

  Mount Vernon, 98

  MREs (meal, ready-to-eat), 174–75

  Much Depends on Dinner (Visser), 117–18

  muffins, 28n

  mugwort, 51

  Munkittrick, R.K., 26–27

  mushroom pizza, 185

  musk, 51

  mussels, 21–23, 133, 167, 188n

  mustard, 45, 86

  mustard sandwiches, 102

  Namibian warthog rectum, 171

  Napoleon, 105

  Nathan’s Famous hot dogs, 111–12

  Nation, 28

  national bird, 32

  National Biscuit Company (later Nabisco), 39

  national flower, 31

  National Geographic, 173

  Native Americans, 21, 23n, 77, 83

  natural selection, 61n

  Nestlé, 191

  Nestle, Marion, 188

  Netherlands, 6

  New Coke, 67

  New England, 17, 33, 26–31

  Nesquick cereal, 191

  Newtown Pippin, 32

  New York

  beekeepers, 86

  subways, 168

  New York Times, 29–30, 85

  New Zealand, 6

  niacin, 68–69, 192

  niacin deficiency, 68–72

  niacin supplements, 71

  Ninjin, 51

  nitrogen, 62

  Nix, John, 179

  nixtamalization, 68, 69

  Noble, Barbara Presley, 186

  nontasters, 7

  Norse traditions, 84, 124, 126

  North Africa, 169

  Northwestern University, 49

  Norway, 6

  nostalgia, 37, 117–19

  nutmeg, 51, 135

  nutrients and nutrition

  cold cereal and, 37

  cooking and, 9, 11–12

  guidelines, 183–88

  hunting and gathering vs. agriculture and, 57–59

  wheat bran and germ and, 42–43

  nut shells, 103

  Nuttolene, 47

  Nuttose, 47

  nux vomica (poison nut), 40

  oat-cakes, 31

  oatmeal, 24

  obesity, 2–3, 5–6, 14, 17n

  O’Bryan, John, 103

  Odin, 84

  O’Donnell, Sean, 76

  Office of Strategic Services (OSS), 167n

  Ohio, 25

  oil, hot, 103–5

  oilfish, 182, 189, 192

  oil lamps, 124

  okra, 86

  Old Blue Raw Honey, 86

  Old Cola Drinkers of America, 67–68

  olfactory capacity, 6

  olisbokollix, 51

  olive oil, 186–87

  counterfeit, 187, 192

  olives, 86

  Olmsted, Larry, 186–87

  omega-3 content, 187, 191

  O’Neill, Molly, 157

  onions, 86, 181

  opium, 40

  OR6A2 gene, 6

  oral sex, 173

  orange roughy (slimehead), 182

  oranges, 25, 86

 

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